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I changed my oil recently and I have learned what oil not to buy again


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Well...last week I changed my oil. The OLM light came on after about 3,200 miles this time

 

I went to the local GM dealer for my AC Delco filter and 7 quarts of oil. Apparantly Gm has a new "semi" "synthetic"

Dex-oil stuff. I didnt remember what it was because I did not want to pay $7+ a quart.

 

So I went to the local parts store and noticed that Quaker State was on sale...so I bought it.

I figured that oil is oil right? Wrong!

 

My last oil change, I used Penzoil, and it stayed pretty quiet on cold startups this winter (I run 10w30 all year round)

This Quaker State oil makes my 5.3 tick loudly and embarassingly...and for a much longer time than the normal "It-will-stop-ticking-at-the-end-of-the-neighborhood" type thing

 

I've checked most of my bases, it's not exhaust leaks...but the ticking increases in frequency when I accelerate

 

It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine

 

The weather here in NC is very nice, the low today was 60 degrees and even when I was leaving work at 78 degrees today it ticked for a long time.

 

Oil Pressure is fine, it hovers just a bit more than halfway through the gauge

 

I don't think that I have a serious problem, and I know that many of us experience some ticking upon startup on colder days, but 78 degrees is not cold.(And it does...eventually...settle down)

I only experienced this kind of loudness after my Quaker State oil change, so I might suck it up and change the oil again...and I might even be convinced to go with the GM expensive oil that must be made from the blubber of baby seals judging by it's cost

 

 

 

Any info, or comments welcome

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I've had good success with Mobil 1, Valvoline Synpower, and Castrol Edge (full synthetics). GM spec is 5W30, so that's what I use. It flows better when cold, and the quicker it gets to the hydraulic parts, the faster it works right.

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Faster the oil makes it to the top of the engine during startup, the better it is for the engine, and the less wear throughout the engine.

 

I'm pretty much a Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge Titanium guy, so cannot say anything about Quaker State.

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I use the Mobil 1 "Extended Performance" 5W/30 Dexos 1 approved synthetic oil in my 2013 Yukon Denali. I purchase the 5 qt. size @ Walmart for $26.45, and the AC Delco PF48 filter for $3.48.

 

My point? "It can not get any cheaper than that for a full synthetic oil change.

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I use the Mobil 1 "Extended Performance" 5W/30 Dexos 1 approved synthetic oil in my 2013 Yukon Denali. I purchase the 5 qt. size @ Walmart for $26.45, and the AC Delco PF48 filter for $3.48.My point? "It can not get any cheaper than that for a full synthetic oil change.

This oil is going in my truck now that the engine has 40k on it

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

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Good points,

I'll probably end up changing it out tomorrow...

When I worked for 'ol Honda Dealership, I always used "Honda Genuine" Full Synthetic 5w30 because it was readily available!

 

I know that everyone sees oil differently, but this extended ticking is honestly pretty embarassing...it's just that loud

I've always understood that "today's" oils are all pretty good, there has been a lot of advances in how they engineer lubricants so I think I'm fairly safe with whatever (excluding Quaker State) :D

 

 

I'll see what I can dig up at or after work tomorrow and I will let you all know if the engine can be silenced.

 

So...what is the deal with GM's "new" oil that costs a fortune?

I was told at their parts counter that it should be good for 7,500 miles...is that correct?

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The OLM doesn't know what type or brand of oil you used. It only grades oil life by a bunch of parameters based on starts and stops, engine rpms and such. It doesn't sample and analyze your oil.

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I've said this before but I will tell the story again. In the early 80's I knew a guy that went to work for GM at the Desert Proving Grounds as a mechnic his job was to change engine oil from engines on a test bed. They would work an engine and then change brand - weight of oil and record usage or anything else, and he said that if you put one brand of oil in your engine and it did not use it or leak it out to keep using it, if it did use some oil change brands and or weights until you found one that did not. He had 2 engines one would use no oil on brand X but would use on brand Y and the other one was just the oppsite. He had built both motors side by side using the same parts pulled from the same bins. :jester:

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The OLM doesn't know what type or brand of oil you used. It only grades oil life by a bunch of parameters based on starts and stops, engine rpms and such. It doesn't sample and analyze your oil.

True it does not know the type, brand, or spec; however the algorithms for the calculations are based on a GM spec. If you use an oil that does not meet the spec, the oil light may come on after the oil is used up (low TBN) and possible damage to the engine could result. If you use an oil that exceeds the spec (such as most pure synthetics), it will turn on when the oil is not near ready to be changed. Needless to say, the latter is better than the former.

Another important factor in the oil life calculation is the assumption that the intake air system is still sealed to prevent dirt from entering the engine. Foam filters are notorious for allowing more dirt particles to pass through vs. a spec'ed paper filter.

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