2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 5.3 Oil Pickup Tube O-ring Replacement

[jmpidgeo]

Hello all,

 

2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 L33 5.3 with 208k miles.

 

I did some research, and found that my oil pickup tube o-ring is most likely causing my oil pressure 'issues'

 

The 'issue' is that in the morning during the first start up of the day, the oil pressure registers low enough to trigger the low oil pressure warning. At idle in PARK it will usually stabilize (when cold) between 5 and 20 psi, but it will drop below that when idling in DRIVE as well, during the first few minutes of operation.

 

Asthe engine warms up, the oil pressure increases, and generally driving down the road when cold it reads 20 psi, when warm its 30-35 psi.

 

Like I said, I believe the culprit is the pickup tube o-ring.

 

My question is, what is involved in dropping the oil pan to replace this $5 part? Do I HAVE to remove the front diff and everything associated with it?

Edited March 18, 2013 by jmpidgeo

[jmpidgeo]

LOL. Just got the call. As luck would have it, he got it put back together with new pump, seals, gaskets, coolant, and oil, started it up, and it had 0 oil pressure at all. Guess they think that the brand new pump is faulty, so they're doing it all over again with a new pump arriving in the morning. I don't mind driving this new truck more, so at least I have that going for me. It just seems odd to me that the brand new pump is faulty, but I'm also not sure what else could cause 0 oil pressure when the pump and seals are all that has been changed from the 208k mile stuff.

[jmpidgeo]

Aaand I have my truck back. Just as I thought in the back of my mind, the tech messed up installing the pump so the pickup tube wasn't properly sealed to it. All good now, $700 in labor later plus parts. 40 psi at idle sure makes me feel better than the previous 3-15 psi

[00Silverado4x4]

Wait, THEY messed up and YOU had to pay?

[gmtech4]

$700,?? what is their door rate ? $200/hr ?

 

get out your receipt ,,,how many hrs labour?

[jmpidgeo]

Wait, THEY messed up and YOU had to pay?

No, I only paid for one round of the oil pump R&R.

 

$700,?? what is their door rate ? $200/hr ?

 

get out your receipt ,,,how many hrs labour?

The oil pump was quoted as a 7.5 hour job by the service advisor when I called them up to discuss how much it might cost. Overall he quoted me $950 for the oil pump R&R and around $350 for the pickup tube seal(s) job separately (parts + labor). They charged me a flat $700 for labor.

Edited March 22, 2013 by jmpidgeo

[gmtech4]

ya ,7.1 in mitchel

[jmpidgeo]

Not too far off then, probably rounded it off to 7 hrs @ $100/hr. $100/hr seems like the going rate for a dealership, if not more expensive in some cases.

 

I especially don't feel bad since they had all day yesterday and half the day today working on it, so I bet they put a solid 12 hours of labor into it between diagnosis, oil pump and seals round 1, and the oil pump seals round 2

Edited March 22, 2013 by jmpidgeo

[gmtech4]

ya ,good on 'em

[jmpidgeo]

Not to mention that they went through 2 oil changes worth of Mobil 1 since they dropped the pan twice, LOL. Obviously only charged me for 1 oil change worth.

[edjenc1]

I had similar issue with my 2005 Suburban 1500 270k miles. On cold starts, the oil pressure was very slow to rise and would cause the oil light to come on. Once at operating temperature, the pressure would stabilize slightly below normal at cruise RPM. When the engine was still below normal operating temperature, the pressure would drop off very low at idle RPM to the point that the engine would begin to knock,

 

Based on everything that I have read, I have a worn O-ring on the oil pickup tube.

 

Here is what I did and the problem has completely gone away.

 

The o-ring is above the oil level. When the oil is cold and thick, the oil pump would suck in air around the o-ring rather than suck oil up the pickup tube, causing the very low oil pressure on cold starts.

 

I simply changed my oil from 5w30 to Mobile 1 0w30. The 0w allows the oil to flow much easier when cold, allowing it to be sucked up the pickup tube rather than the pump sucking in air around the worn o-ring.

 

Go figure. It worked! The oil pressure is perfect now, even on cold starts.

[Jworks]

On 4/12/2017 at 10:03 AM, edjenc1 said:

I had similar issue with my 2005 Suburban 1500 270k miles. On cold starts, the oil pressure was very slow to rise and would cause the oil light to come on. Once at operating temperature, the pressure would stabilize slightly below normal at cruise RPM. When the engine was still below normal operating temperature, the pressure would drop off very low at idle RPM to the point that the engine would begin to knock,

 

Based on everything that I have read, I have a worn O-ring on the oil pickup tube.

 

Here is what I did and the problem has completely gone away.

 

The o-ring is above the oil level. When the oil is cold and thick, the oil pump would suck in air around the o-ring rather than suck oil up the pickup tube, causing the very low oil pressure on cold starts.

 

I simply changed my oil from 5w30 to Mobile 1 0w30. The 0w allows the oil to flow much easier when cold, allowing it to be sucked up the pickup tube rather than the pump sucking in air around the worn o-ring.

 

Go figure. It worked! The oil pressure is perfect now, even on cold starts.

Man, thats weird changing to 0-30 oil to solve the problem.  No arguing though that it worked for you.  I had a similar issue.  Long story short:  Oil pressure dropped to 21 at hwy speed.  An online friend in this forum advised changing oil & filter.  I did.  Pressure went back to 40 hwy speed.  But still idles lower...like 20-30 at idle.  Mechanic told me it was still within GM specs and not to worry.  He said it'd be costly to replace the O ring (which would be my next step).  And he said if it dropped below 20 to let him know.  I'm thinking that would be a $700 job min.  For now I'm at 40 hwy speed and 22-30 at idle.