Do I need longer shocks after 2" t-bar crank and 3" block adde

[andymiller]

Do I need longer shocks after cranking my t-bars 2" in the front and replacing the 1.5" block with a 3" block?

 

It rides a little rougher, but wondering if the shocks are topping out, or its just the added stiffness in the t-bars.

 

thanks

[RyanbabZ71]

I didn't with mine. Rides fine

 

 

Ryan

[andymiller]

The newer body styles ride better with the coil overs in my opinion.

[KMGZ400]

no, but if you get new keys, then you should definatley get shock extenders. i have a 2003 silvy and couldnt get 2" out of the stock keys. do you have a pic of your truck? id like to see the 3.5 inch block in the back

[andymiller]

I was able to get 2" out if the stock keys.

 

I do have a picture in my gallery and my avatar. They are both from the rear of the truck. Kept the rake in it. Sits about like a 2500HD does now.

[yukon25008.1]

I would go with the shock extension in front, and longer in the rear. rancho makes shocks that are 1-2" longer to accomidate for things like this.. 'keys and blocks' Etc...

[tyhuck]

Shock extensions are a crock. The suspension cant droop any further than the stops, regardless of how much you crank the bars. the factor shocks are capable of enough travel to accomodate the suspension at full droop and full compression. If you add the extenders, you run the risk of breaking your shocks during full compression, especially in a hard compression like hitting a big hole or, if you are into jumping stuff, coming down off a jump.

[Big Whiskey]

The stiffer ride is probably a combination of having the bars cranked, the taller rear blocks making the rear leaves a bit more bouncy, and your stock shocks bottoming out on large bumps. Cranking the bars makes it ride more firm, that's a fact....and longer shocks will only help so much. That being said....if your stock shocks have a lot of miles on them....or they're really cheap....and will need to be replaced soon anyway....then go ahead and replace them with some 1"-2" longer ones. It will help a little, but it will never ride like stock again, as long as your bars are cranked.

[andymiller]

Deffinatley rides a little stiffer. Im wondering if it could be the tires? I installed Falken Rocky Mountain ATS, still a load range D tire.

 

I replaced the shocks with cheaper Monroe shocks of stock length back in the fall. Where do you find the longer shocks or how do you go about researching factory shock length?

[KMGZ400]

i cranked the stock keys on my 2001 and it rode noticeably rougher. i added keys/shock extenders and had them set where the stock keys were fully cranked and it rode way better. been running shock extenders and 3"keys on my 2003 for a long time with no issues and a stock ride.

[Big Whiskey]

Deffinatley rides a little stiffer. Im wondering if it could be the tires? I installed Falken Rocky Mountain ATS, still a load range D tire.

 

I replaced the shocks with cheaper Monroe shocks of stock length back in the fall. Where do you find the longer shocks or how do you go about researching factory shock length?

 

 

The tires could be part of it. Even though the max PSI for a D rated tire is 65, you only need to run about 35-40 PSI on a 1500 when empty. I'm not sure what you're running now, but too much air will stiffen the ride too. For shocks, many companies that make 2" lift/level kits (Zone, Fabtech, Rough Country) also sell longer shocks to fit those kits. I think Rancho also makes a slightly longer shock as well.

 

i cranked the stock keys on my 2001 and it rode noticeably rougher. i added keys/shock extenders and had them set where the stock keys were fully cranked and it rode way better. been running shock extenders and 3"keys on my 2003 for a long time with no issues and a stock ride.

 

 

The shock extensions are probably helping the ride....however, I call on it riding like stock with aftermarket keys. Changing to re-indexed keys does the exact same thing as cranking your stock ones.....it twists the torsion bar farther than the stock setting. Whether you crank the stock bars or change the keys, the end result is the same....increased ride height and a stiffer ride. Chances are, you've just gotten used to the way it rides currently, and have long forgotten how soft the factory ride really is.

[KMGZ400]

The tires could be part of it. Even though the max PSI for a D rated tire is 65, you only need to run about 35-40 PSI on a 1500 when empty. I'm not sure what you're running now, but too much air will stiffen the ride too. For shocks, many companies that make 2" lift/level kits (Zone, Fabtech, Rough Country) also sell longer shocks to fit those kits. I think Rancho also makes a slightly longer shock as well.

 

 

 

The shock extensions are probably helping the ride....however, I call on it riding like stock with aftermarket keys. Changing to re-indexed keys does the exact same thing as cranking your stock ones.....it twists the torsion bar farther than the stock setting. Whether you crank the stock bars or change the keys, the end result is the same....increased ride height and a stiffer ride. Chances are, you've just gotten used to the way it rides currently, and have long forgotten how soft the factory ride really is.

 

 

your right that it dosent ride like it did with the stock keys, but its way better then just cranking the keys. i should of clarified

[MikeNH]

You shouldn't need anything up front as no matter how much you crank the t-bars you'll never get more travel out of the suspension, you're basically just eliminating downtravel when you crank them.

[Silverado4x4]

Shock extensions are a crock. The suspension cant droop any further than the stops, regardless of how much you crank the bars. the factor shocks are capable of enough travel to accomodate the suspension at full droop and full compression. If you add the extenders, you run the risk of breaking your shocks during full compression, especially in a hard compression like hitting a big hole or, if you are into jumping stuff, coming down off a jump.

 

 

The tires could be part of it. Even though the max PSI for a D rated tire is 65, you only need to run about 35-40 PSI on a 1500 when empty. I'm not sure what you're running now, but too much air will stiffen the ride too. For shocks, many companies that make 2" lift/level kits (Zone, Fabtech, Rough Country) also sell longer shocks to fit those kits. I think Rancho also makes a slightly longer shock as well.

 

 

 

The shock extensions are probably helping the ride....however, I call on it riding like stock with aftermarket keys. Changing to re-indexed keys does the exact same thing as cranking your stock ones.....it twists the torsion bar farther than the stock setting. Whether you crank the stock bars or change the keys, the end result is the same....increased ride height and a stiffer ride. Chances are, you've just gotten used to the way it rides currently, and have long forgotten how soft the factory ride really is.

 

 

+1 on both posts, you will hit the stops upper or lower before the shock fully extends

[andymiller]

you're basically just eliminating downtravel when you crank them.

 

 

I checked my tires pressure. It was at 40. Lowered them to 35psi but it still feels like it could use something else. Could just be as MikeNH said. The elimination of the down travel could be causing the stiffness over speed bumps and such.