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SarahsGMC

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The most rational reason these exist is they are the vehicles on dealer commercials. The "one available at this price" ads.

 

And

I almost got t-bone in my neighborhood. Post the video later if I remember

I know those are sales package codes
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Still waiting on a call back for how much my truck will cost to fix. In the meantime I have a brand new f250 with a 6.2 in it as a loaner. Thing only had 700 miles on it, but of course I got a hold of it and have already hooked it up to a trailer. Sad part? My truck tuned pulls the trailer better than the f250. Obviously it's more workhorse grade, but I still found it quite pitiful

 

d631b10cbc9e69426f9fb4b2b7d60572.jpg

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Still waiting on a call back for how much my truck will cost to fix. In the meantime I have a brand new f250 with a 6.2 in it as a loaner. Thing only had 700 miles on it, but of course I got a hold of it and have already hooked it up to a trailer. Sad part? My truck tuned pulls the trailer better than the f250. Obviously it's more workhorse grade, but I still found it quite pitiful

 

d631b10cbc9e69426f9fb4b2b7d60572.jpg

Poor guy, you've suffered enough! :lol:

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Haven't been with ATT a year and I'm about to switch companies again. LG has a RECALL on their phones and the morons in customer service want me to trouble shoot the problem listed in the recall. They want to do a master reset, I told them I'll just wait a few days until the POS is completely dead, rather than have to do that twice in a week(guess what happens if the bootloop starts again during a master reset? 2 hours at least to get it to the log in page ). BTW this is the third G4 phone we have had bootloop, and the last two times I said LG G4 bootloop, and within 5 minutes they had processed everything and the replacement was ordered. I told the rep to check out the recall press release and she said her manager is making her do the full standard troubleshoot process.

Edited by SnakeEyes
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Well, crap. My oil pan gasket got caught on the stud during install, and was bent in multiple places. I straightened it out fairly well, but since it was new and the rubber is what does the sealing, I just stuck it in anyway and tightened the bolt pattern in the order given, I figure that will straighten it out as well as anything else could. I used a little extra RTV on the corners where the seals overlap.

 

 

Odds of leaking?

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I doubt it will leak ... but I've CAUSED leaks before with Fel-Pro gaskets using RTV. When the paper says, "Use no RTV", they mean it.

 

Learned the hard way on that '00 4.3 I carb'ed and installed in my '89 S10 Blazer.

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Can you drill it out?

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

No. Hardened steel. Got a titanium Coated bit at Lowe's and it's not doing anything but starting to destroy the edges, if I keep going it will ruin the hole/threads on one side

 

 

Maybe find someone that can weld the K member on? Then just drive it until it craps out and salvage it.

Edited by SnakeEyes
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I've broken EZ-outs off inside holes before - same deal. Hardened steel, impossible to drill.

 

Last time this happened on a '80 Dodge Omni thermostat housing bolt. By the time I was done drilling, the hole was 3x bigger. I ended up filling the hole with QuickSteel epoxy, and stuck a pencil in the center to make it easier to drill and tap. Worked it with a wet popsicle stick for a factory smooth gasket surface. After it cured, I tapped the hole, installed the t-stat, and tightened everything down. It worked! Coolant built up pressure too - didn't leak a drop. Ran it 6 months before the idiot I was dating at the time pulled out in front of someone and got T-boned. Off to the crusher it went.

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The guy on Craigslist said he doesn't have a drill good enough but he's got everything else he told me he can try but he doubts he can get it out, so the guy is honest, give him credit for that.

 

A mechanic for at the company I work for said that I'm screwed.

 

Anyone in the Tulsa area that can weld?

Edited by SnakeEyes
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