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Promising better fuel economy for AFM engines, the Range


Zane

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What do you mean? Like a fuel saving plug in thing?

Yup, but I guess a hand held tuner would be the same thing wouldn't it? Bad hair day/moment I guess...

 

Although I've been told the engine that have the "limp home" mode are possibly capable of being programmed to act as AFM....??? Probably wouldn't work...

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I'm not sure if it's possible, I think different lifters are required.. I have compared my mileage to trucks a year newer with AFM, and with the type of driving I do, there's not much difference. That's because the AFM doesn't get a chance to kick in constantly here because of hills and wind. I know in other driving situations it would help. Another reason for the mileage in my truck is the 3.73 gears, because even against the wind uphill it rarely downshifts. That's a major mpg killer.

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Yup, but I guess a hand held tuner would be the same thing wouldn't it? Bad hair day/moment I guess...

A hand held tuner will put some sort of permanent changes into your ECU (a "tune" if you will). It will basically change stock settings in a static manner.

 

This module does this all externally to the ECU ... it's a little "mini-me" ECU :) that is working with the main ECU to modify the strategy on the fly (not as part of a tune). Thus, there's no changes to the main ECU (so no "footprint").

 

 

Although I've been told the engine that have the "limp home" mode are possibly capable of being programmed to act as AFM....??? Probably wouldn't work...

 

As far as the AFM on older trucks, it's more complicated because in the newer trucks they physically shut the cylinders off with solenoids which close the valves (basically like a "clutch" for the valves... it disengages them from lifting the valve from the camshaft). So it's a pretty sophisticated thing that allows the "off" cylinders to act as a big air spring and because of that, you don't lose energy pumping air through those cylinders.

 

The older Gen III stuff doesn't have any of that oil system/lifter/solenoid gear/special cam lobes (or even provisions for it in the block). Only GenIV stuff does (and even motors like the LS2/3 don't have them provisioned, just rough-ins for the system). So the limp mode would probably save almost nothing, I would guess, just because of the extra effort to pump air through the dead cylinders.

 

... and just a note. We're wrapping up the AFM disabler (V8 all the time) module testing. It's really neat ... same thing, our module is controlling the AFM stuff and in this case, it is telling the system to stay in V8 in all conditions. REALLY smooth and drives like a "normal" truck. The ideal thing for those that object to drivability of the stock AFM or use their truck to haul/tow or in adverse traction conditions where smooth power delivery is a must.

 

This will all be reflected very soon in our website with three options:

  • V4 Plus - milder calibration for those with lots of high speed driving and or cruise control usage. Also good for those with 4 speed transmissions or tall gearing
  • V4 Max - current calibration that is best for the 6 speed/lower geared/bigger motor combos because they can keep the motor in the "sweet spot" easier to minimize v4/v8 switching
  • V8 - all V8 all the time. Great for heavy load/towing or marginal traction conditions where smoothness and power are a must

Stay tuned! ...

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So I have a 2007.5 z71 crew cab with the 5.3 and 3.73 gears and of course the 4 speed auto... which calibration would be best for my truck?

 

A hand held tuner will put some sort of permanent changes into your ECU (a "tune" if you will). It will basically change stock settings in a static manner.

 

This module does this all externally to the ECU ... it's a little "mini-me" ECU :) that is working with the main ECU to modify the strategy on the fly (not as part of a tune). Thus, there's no changes to the main ECU (so no "footprint").

 

 

As far as the AFM on older trucks, it's more complicated because in the newer trucks they physically shut the cylinders off with solenoids which close the valves (basically like a "clutch" for the valves... it disengages them from lifting the valve from the camshaft). So it's a pretty sophisticated thing that allows the "off" cylinders to act as a big air spring and because of that, you don't lose energy pumping air through those cylinders.

 

The older Gen III stuff doesn't have any of that oil system/lifter/solenoid gear/special cam lobes (or even provisions for it in the block). Only GenIV stuff does (and even motors like the LS2/3 don't have them provisioned, just rough-ins for the system). So the limp mode would probably save almost nothing, I would guess, just because of the extra effort to pump air through the dead cylinders.

 

... and just a note. We're wrapping up the AFM disabler (V8 all the time) module testing. It's really neat ... same thing, our module is controlling the AFM stuff and in this case, it is telling the system to stay in V8 in all conditions. REALLY smooth and drives like a "normal" truck. The ideal thing for those that object to drivability of the stock AFM or use their truck to haul/tow or in adverse traction conditions where smooth power delivery is a must.

 

This will all be reflected very soon in our website with three options:

  • V4 Plus - milder calibration for those with lots of high speed driving and or cruise control usage. Also good for those with 4 speed transmissions or tall gearing
  • V4 Max - current calibration that is best for the 6 speed/lower geared/bigger motor combos because they can keep the motor in the "sweet spot" easier to minimize v4/v8 switching
  • V8 - all V8 all the time. Great for heavy load/towing or marginal traction conditions where smoothness and power are a must

Stay tuned! ...

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So I have a 2007.5 z71 crew cab with the 5.3 and 3.73 gears and of course the 4 speed auto... which calibration would be best for my truck?

 

I would recommend the PLUS calibration (for V4 ... V8 if you want the V8 all the time). The 4 speed transmission kind of limits what we can do with drivability, since we can't keep it in the "sweet spot" as much.

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I would recommend the PLUS calibration (for V4 ... V8 if you want the V8 all the time). The 4 speed transmission kind of limits what we can do with drivability, since we can't keep it in the "sweet spot" as much.

 

Alright thanks, I drive a lot over 80kph a lot with a lot of highway driving etc... As long as I can save a bunch of fuel....

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At those speeds, the affects will be lessened for either calibration ... the load is pretty high due to aerodynamic forces, so what we do is switch it into V4 faster when load decreases (really steady speed on level ground, slight downhill, etc.) or stays low (no head wind and so on) and hold it in V4 for approx. 50% longer than the stock calibration. With your 3.73s (vs. 3.42s or lower) it'll be easier to keep it in the sweet spot, and it will help. The PLUS calibration will help keep it from "hunting" a bit between V4/V8 above those speeds and still will be aggressive below about 80 kph. It's kind of a trade off ... due to the gearing in the 4 speed trucks and the wider RPM/torque range in each gear, the PLUS seems to work better and still saves approx. the same amount of fuel.

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At those speeds, the affects will be lessened for either calibration ... the load is pretty high due to aerodynamic forces, so what we do is switch it into V4 faster when load decreases (really steady speed on level ground, slight downhill, etc.) or stays low (no head wind and so on) and hold it in V4 for approx. 50% longer than the stock calibration. With your 3.73s (vs. 3.42s or lower) it'll be easier to keep it in the sweet spot, and it will help. The PLUS calibration will help keep it from "hunting" a bit between V4/V8 above those speeds and still will be aggressive below about 80 kph. It's kind of a trade off ... due to the gearing in the 4 speed trucks and the wider RPM/torque range in each gear, the PLUS seems to work better and still saves approx. the same amount of fuel.

What kind of mileage gains have you seen with the 4 speed trucks?

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Pretty close to the same over the EPA driving cycles (as far as improvement), maybe just a TINY bit less because at higher speeds we have to back off a little. That's offset with the fact that the factory cal is really wimpy on the '07-09 trucks, so we have more opportunity. The later 6 speed AFM cals are much more aggressive, so we kind of get a wash because there's less "room" over the factory cal BUT we pick up extra range because of the gearing. In the end, it's such a small difference that it's tough to detect without some pretty expensive equipment.

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I'm very interested to hear how much the mpg improves using the V4 max on a 5.3L with the 6-speed and 3.42 gears. I have a 2012 and would be happy to keep it in V4 mode as long as possible!

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The V4 Max showed a solid 8-10% on the dyno ... field reports brought back real world savings from 7-12% (depends a lot on how you drive and where you drive, just like anything). The beauty of it is that you can UNPLUG it at anytime you feel you are in a driving situation that it isn't optimum for (snowy/icy conditions, steady cruise condition where you feel it "hunt" between V4/V8 or whatever). Then just plug it back in when you're ready to go ...

 

Here's feedback from one user that we got just today:

 

 

 

Kris B. via email

 

... Since I started using my Range in my 2011 Chevy 1500 Silverado 4x4 I have driven over 800 miles with the overall average savings of 9%. That is a staggering savings considering that is with a trailer on the back sometimes and also the overall geographic region I reside in is substantially hilly as well. I also have not driven the vehicle any different then when I was driving it prior to installing the Range unit.

 

 

Overall awesome unit....
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I'm interested in the V4 Plus, however I want to also keep my scangauge, is there any way to run both of these at the same time?

 

Also, will having this plugged in affect the onstar monthly e-mail reporting like my scangauge does?

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