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Leveling Block Dimensions


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Hey guys,

 

I drew this up today and thought some of you might find it useful. It is dimensions for a front leveling block for a GMT900 1500. I am having our Water Jet guy at work cut them out for me. This pattern can be used to make any height leveling kit. You divide the amount of lift you want by 2 to determine the height of the block. If anyone has access to a Water Jet and would like the AutoCAD file of this pattern send me a PM with your email address and I can send you the .dwg file. (I tried to upload it here but it said I didn't have permission to upload that type of file.)

 

Enjoy!

 

2in Leveling Block.pdf

2in Leveling Block.pdf

2in Leveling Block.pdf

2in Leveling Block.pdf

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So if I am reading this right it is 1" thick for a 2" lift, so If I made the block 1/2" thick I could achieve a 1" lift ??

 

 

That is correct.

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Thank you for the info and dimensions,I have been wanting a 1" lift for some time and you can't buy a 1" lift anywhere ,a friend of mine has a machine shop,I will see if he can make this for me.

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Update. I noticed when I was installing my 1" thick blocks that there is no way a thicker block will fit. The rear bolt head will hit the CV axle if the block was any taller.

 

BTW you will need (4x) 3/8"-16 x 3.5-4" Grade 8 bolts, washers & nuts. (M10x1.5 Gr 12.9 will work also. That's what the factory bolts are)

(I couldn't get Grade 8 Nylock nuts at my small local hardware store so I used hardened lock washers instead.)

 

You will not be able to reuse the factory stamped nuts (M10x1.5) because they will hit the CV axle. Install the bolts from the top down with the nuts on the bottom and you won't have a problem.

 

Got my alignment today and everything is good. (Toe was out of spec by .5 degrees on each side after leveling)

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

If you can use a 3/8" bolt then why is the hole in the spacer .453"? That is a ton of extra clearance. I am planning to machine a bunch of these in different thicknesses and am just trying to understand the need for .075"+ of clearance. I appreciate that drawing, took me 2 mins to duplicate it in solid works.

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It just makes it easier to install. (And it's the diameter of the hole in the strut).

 

Glad someone else is getting some use from that drawing!

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I have two sets of 1/2" blocks machined. Should yield 1" of lift if anyone is interested. Machined from 6061-T6. They are yours for $15 a set shipped anywhere in the continental USA. No hardware included. Structurally perfect, not the prettiest. Still working on some jigs for the machining process.

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  • 2 months later...

The U-shaped bracket is the block. It goes between the strut and the Lower Control Arm. There is a 2:1 ratio between the wheel travel and the strut travel. I.E. 1" of strut travel = 2" of wheel travel. So for a 2.5" lift you would need a block that is 1.25" tall. However, a 1.25" block will not fit under the strut without hitting the CV Shaft. To get 2.5" of lift you need to have the 1" tall block under the strut and a .25" spacer on top of the strut. You will see that all of the commercially available 2.5" kits come with both.

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Disregard, I just noticed tha the draft shows the thickness also. I assumed it was the Puck that you usually see with the manufactured leveling kids. Do you by any chance know what the specs would be for a Puck. I want to replicate one of the manufactured leveling kits to get a 2.5 inch level. I think the Puck is an inch and the Block is what you show but its only a quarter or 3/8ths of an inch tall?

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I don't have the dimensions for the upper spacer. The upper one is usually the one that is 1/4" and the lower one that I gave the dimensions for is the 1" one.

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