Adjusting WD Hitch-Which Way is Correct?

Blue2500CC · May 22, 2012

In another thread there was a couple posts about how to adjust a wd hitch correctly. Didn't want to steer that thread of topic, so I am starting a new one.

The following replies about wd hitch adjustment seemed to be of the "old school" thought of equal drop for the tv f&r:

Music:

When you select and configure a WD hitch system, you first select the bar size to match the load. For me, that's 1200 lb bars (i.e., I expect my tongue weight to be in the range of 1000 to 1200 lbs). When you configure the hitch, you set the tilt of the hitch head per the instructions, with everything setting level, and then connect/engage the WD bars with the full weight of the trailer on the ball. This gets adjusted so that both the front and rear of the truck "drop" to about the same point. What's happening, is that the "lever like" action of the WD hitch is distributing the load to the front axle, *and* to the trailer axles (i.e., *off of the truck*), rather than putting it all on the rear axle. Once configured for that trailer/truck combo, it doesn't need to be adjusted again. If a person were to add air to a set of air bags after configuring, it will unload the WD spring bars and put more load onto the truck, especially the rear axle. In my case, doing so would also remove friction from the WD bars, and lessen the sway control function (since it uses the bar tension for friction).

That said, if the system isn't quite where it needs to be without supplemental springs, a person could beef up the axle springs a little to help, but that should be done before installing the WD system, and it should be exactly the same every time. That's harder to do with air than it is with a fixed spring set, imho.

Unless I'm mistaken, an air system replaces the overload spring (?). When configuring a heavy load w/ a WD system on these trucks, the ideal point (by my experience) is adjusting it to settle into the overloads just enough to gain the stability they provide.

NHT Mike:

Thank you! Finally someone else that has read the book and knows how to set a hitch! I bet I have told that same story 50 times!

It all starts the same. Someone walks up to the camp site and asks how out trailer tows. When I say great they start in with needing over loads, air bags, or air shocks.

The way I start is to weight the tongue then adjust the hitch so about 5% or more of that weight is on the steer (front) axle. At that point the rear end isn't sagging! My trailer tongue is about 650 so I like about 125 on the steers. To really dial it in I use front end alignment shims under the rivit that sets my hitch head tilt.

If you see someone hook up their trailer and just snap the bars up with no strain there is a good chance they arn't adjusted correctly.

Music & Mike, if I have misunderstood how you guys set the hitch, please explain a little more!

Now, I have also read the "new school" thought (or "suggestion") to only transfer enough weight back to the tv's fa so it is the same as the unhitched weight, and allowing the ra to carry most of the weight.

I guess the question I have is, which way is "more" correct, or is it more of a personal preference?

I have towed the "old school" way with our 2k ecsb (felt rock solid), and the "new school" way with our 2010 ccsb. Until I tow the "new style" with Lt's on the 2010, it is hard to compare which I prefer. Too much p-rated tire "wiggle" to know for sure! (Lt "C's" are on order!)

Trailer is about 6300lbs loaded, 860lb tw the one time I weighed it. Readjusted some things inside the trailer a little, so tw may be a "little" less now, but not much.

HItch is a Reese Dual Cam (1st Gen!) system.

I am also over on RV.net also, which is where I read about the "new school" style set up.

TY for your thoughts & opinions!

Chris

nht mike · May 22, 2012

I would guess the main thing is don't let the front of the truck come up when you hitch up the trailer. If the front comes up you not only have the weight of the trailer on the rear axle, but also weight from the steer axle. I think having plenty of weight on the steer axle helps handling on roads with wheel ruts.

brainpause · May 22, 2012

I subscribe to the new school of thought. Think of it this way: If the weight on the front axle is the same as unloaded, it should feel the same as driving unloaded. (Have you ever carried a load of mulch or concrete bags on/behind the rear axle? Front end is squirrelly!)

I don't recommend doing the following, but it happened to me: I was endlessly tweaking my new Equalizer hitch, not getting satisfaction with the way my steer axle felt. So, I set the hitch so that a LOT of weight was transferred forward. Stepped back, and thought, "That oughta do it." Took it for a test drive and had a hard time accelerating without breaking traction on truck rear. Too much transfer, and a dangerous situation.

Back to the drawing board. It's been 5 years, but I think I turned hitch head downward with another washer, made all measurements and adjustments, and was finally satisfied. Eventually I scaled it, and front axle was on the money, slightly heavier than unladen.

The biggest improvement in the solid feel of the lashup, however. Was the E-rated tires I put on.

music · May 22, 2012

I haven't thought about it as "new" vs "old" school, or in terms of before/after weight. I adjust mine so that the front axle is setting about the same height when loaded as it did beforehand. That's the goal, but I probably go a little lighter before I go heavier. I want plenty of weight on the rear, so that it settles into the overload springs. Keep in mind, however, that this is w/ over 1000 lbs on the tongue. A lighter camper may never reach the overload springs (?), but sitting into those heavy bottom springs makes for a solid tow. Most of the "motion" I have now is from the p-metric tires. Those will likely be swapped for LT/E when I change them.

After all is said and done, I'm probably a little heavier on the front than when unloaded, and the rear sits ~0.75" lower than the front. My last camper, which was only ~700 lbs on the tongue, didn't squat as easily, but I had lighter bars too. I was probably setting a little closer level w/ that one.

One more comment: If the right sized spring bars are being used, and the hitch setup instructions are followed, I'm not sure it's possible to shift too much weight to the front. Neither of mine would do it. I think you would have too much tilt in the hitch head if that were happening (?).

brainpause · May 23, 2012

I haven't thought about it as "new" vs "old" school, or in terms of before/after weight. I adjust mine so that the front axle is setting about the same height when loaded as it did beforehand. That's the goal, but I probably go a little lighter before I go heavier. I want plenty of weight on the rear, so that it settles into the overload springs. Keep in mind, however, that this is w/ over 1000 lbs on the tongue. A lighter camper may never reach the overload springs (?), but sitting into those heavy bottom springs makes for a solid tow. Most of the "motion" I have now is from the p-metric tires. Those will likely be swapped for LT/E when I change them.

After all is said and done, I'm probably a little heavier on the front than when unloaded, and the rear sits ~0.75" lower than the front. My last camper, which was only ~700 lbs on the tongue, didn't squat as easily, but I had lighter bars too. I was probably setting a little closer level w/ that one.

One more comment: If the right sized spring bars are being used, and the hitch setup instructions are followed, I'm not sure it's possible to shift too much weight to the front. Neither of mine would do it. I think you would have too much tilt in the hitch head if that were happening (?).

When the hitch is adjusted properly, the front compresses the same amount as the rear (as measured, say, at the top of the wheel well). You may still have a little rake.

I do have the correct spring bars, because the tongue weight is approximately 800 pounds. The choice of spring bars is 600 or 1000.

Yes, you are correct that too much tongue weight can be shifted to the front by tilting the hitch head too much, but that can also be accomplished by raising the "L" brackets a notch or two.

I think the important thing, no matter how it is accomplished, is to get the front axle weight similar to the unladen weight. Everything else should fall into place then.

Having said that, I had my weights all correct but I still had some sway issues. I did several things, including shocks, truck alignment, balancing trailer tires, etc., but I believe the 1 thing that helped the most was putting E rated tires on my truck. That's a lot of tire for a half ton pickup, but it is what I needed.

Blue2500CC · May 25, 2012

I guess the reason I call it "Old School vs. New School" thinking is that as most know, the "Old" way was to have almost equal drop in the front & rear when the bars were hooked up. Now it is suggested to only to return the front to unhitched weight & let the rear do it's thing.

I do need to play with the tilt a little more. Only 1 of many things to do this Summer! Lol

Chris