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I have a feeling its something in the steering column but I've never taken one out or apart. I think that it might just have to be tightened somwhere because the steering wheel wiggles up and down and I'm guessing its pinching or loosening a wire and thats whats causing it to quit but I have no idea if I just have to tighten a bolt or replace the whole column. Anybody else have a problem like this before?
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Never heard that one.

But, having torn into a few columns myself, I can say that there is nothing in the rotating assembly that contacts a wire. Is the whole column housing wiggling or just the steering shaft? Does it shut off at idle, sitting still when you turn the wheel? Or just when you're moving and actually take a turn? If it's the latter, I'd look around under the hood and/or under the dash for a loose battery, battery cable, or a wiring harness that is close to contacting a ground on the left side of the wires. I'm thinking maybe when the truck turns, something shifts and grounds out.

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a metal rod connects to the linkage from the key cylinder in the upper part of the steering column and runs down to the ignition switch which is fastened to the lower part of the steering column.  If the top of the column is moving enough it could be causing that rod to move the ignition switch enough for the contacts to be opening and causing it to shut off. If your column is a tilt column the looseness could be caused by loose screws down inside the column that tighten the pivot for the tilt mechanism, it's a fairly common problem, it requires disassembling the top portion of the column to access the screws, tighten them back up(it's a good idea to put some loc-tite on them to prevent them from loosening up again) and reassemble the column.
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95 Silverado hit the nail right on the head.  This is a very common problem on the 73’ through 95’ GM truck Saginaw tilt steering columns.  The three bolts that that fastens the tilt bowl will come loose to the degree it will cause the rack and rod to move enough to shut off the ignition switch at the base of the steering column.  

 

4x4fury, you may also need to get a special tool to remove the locking plate for the wheel lock once the steering wheel is removed.  You may be able to get it off without the tool if you have two really strong thumbs and a helper to pick out the retaining ring. This locking plate can be a bear to get off.

 

Good luck and let us know if this fixes it.

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  • 2 weeks later...
well, those three screw weren't the problem, they were tight. but the bearings were shot so I just got another column out of a pick and pull for $100. It was pretty easy to do to. Took me about an hour and a half to get the new one on. The hardest part wasgetting the clips for the wiring to unplug
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Have you checked the ground and live connections inside the engine bay? I had a vehicle that would die on me as I went round left handers - turned out be a poor connection at the ground terminal,  wire would slightly pull out as the suspension extended on the driver side.

 

Just my two cents :cheers:

 

Mark

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