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My wife surprised me Wednesday (Thanksgiving weekend) with OUR early Christmas present! A 2'x2'x3' box with "Powerdyne Superchargers" written all over it. :lol: I do have to say that I was slightly disappointed that it was NOT a whipple or magnacharger. However, considering she had always said NO  :lol: to my wanting a supercharger, I am not going to complain! On the plus side, she bought it new (complete kit) for $1,700 less than the whipple supercharger. :fume:

 

I spent Friday and Saturday installing it. The instructions are a little vague and I strongly suggest that you have a Haynes or Chilton repair manual to refer to. The kit shorted me on 4 washers and two bolts were fine thread instead of course thread. BTW, the belt was ½ inch too long, and it is quite hard to come up with a 6-rib 113.0 inch serpentine belt. From experience, be sure to get a Goodyear “Gaterback” V-poly cogg belt.

 

I always laugh at the estimated time the manufacturer says it will take to install their product. My general rule of thumb is to multiply that time by 3, then add ½ a day. The 4-6 hour install took 14 hours start to finish, including the 5 hours spent at autozone (3 different ones) buying additional parts and tools.

 

On a side note, if this is the quietest supercharger on the market, then how f***ing loud are the others? This one whistles like a jet turbine! Albeit not that loud, but definitely noticeable.  Once you get used to it, it is "cool". :fume:

 

The truck runs great! Boost starts coming in at 2,000 rpms (2.0 positive), 3 psi at 3,000 rpms, 5 psi at 4,000 rpms, and 6 psi at 5,000 rpms. The truck will smoke the tires on a straight takeoff (even with the G80 locker). If you make a left or right turn from stop, it will start wheel hopping and by the time you finish the turn, you will have a cloud of blue smoke. Even on light throttle takeoffs (no boost) the truck surges ahead way better than stock! On a side note, the Transgo shift kit works incredibly well with the blower.

 

My wife chose the centrifugal over the roots/twin screw for both money and safety reasons. Since the blower does not come to full boost instantly, low throttle driving is still civil. This should prove to be a wise choice in wet weather conditions. During dry weather, it saves on tire cost and tickets.

 

Overall, I am definitely very happy at this point.  The truck is definetly a tire smoking beast!!! :devil:

 

 

2001 Chevy 2500HD 6.0L/auto/4.10 locker

Powerdyne Supercharger

 

1996 Alfa Ideal 30ft. 5th wheel

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Can I borrow your wife for XMAS?  I don't think I'll be getting that good a present.  :devil:

 

I guess after you got the charger....she's broke anyhow.

 

Congrats man.  Got any pics?  I'm toying with the idea myself....first I'm liftin though.

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I had the same problem with the belt.  Although I couldn't get the 113inch belt on (I didn't force it though).  I ended up getting 2 larger idler pulleys and replacing the on the tensioner and the other one on the same side as the tensioner (lower on the block).

 

What plugs and gap are you running?

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I had the same problem with the belt.  Although I couldn't get the 113inch belt on (I didn't force it though).  I ended up getting 2 larger idler pulleys and replacing the on the tensioner and the other one on the same side as the tensioner (lower on the block).

 

What plugs and gap are you running?

Tbyrne recommended NGK-TR6 spark plugs gapped at 35 thousandths (charged me under $30 for the plugs with shipping).  You will probably have to change your pulleys back and use a 113.0" belt.  No one around here can order 114.0" 6-ribs, but Autozone can order Goodyear "Gators" V-poly 113.0" 6-rib belts for $26 a belt.  To get the 113.0" belt to fit you will need to "pre-stretch" it. :D   Either get a buddy (or use the tow ball on the bumper) and pull "stretch" the belt, being sure to go evenly around.  Be sure to "string" all the pulleys leaving the tensioner pulley till last.  After you stretch the belt it will fit under the tensioner pulley (very snug).  Then all you have to do is adjust the tension.  Normally after you "pre-stretch" the belt it shouldn't stetch out anymore after using it (good!). :thumb:

 

Hope this helps!! :D

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Congrats!

 

CMNT is now looking at the two available choices for Blowers on 8.1's.  Kenne Bell and of course Whipple.  The Whipple with intercooler is more than the Kenne Bell, but KB claims their design doesn't need an intercooler cause it runs 20 degrees cooler than anyone else.  Of course this all in one design KB is still more than just a non-intercooled Whipple.

 

Decisions, decisions and I don't need to consult a wife for permission.  :wtf:

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A number of folks have expressed interest in superchargers and questioned what an intercooler is and why you would want it or need it.

 

Let me share some real world data based on my 8.1L and Whipple supercharger/intercooler combination. I run 7 lbs boost measured at the intake port. It is worth noting that the 8.1L does quite well without boost, but sure can ramp up when it needs to. I have seen 7.2 boost at the track.

 

I recently installed a vacuum/boost guage and an Andial differential temperature guage that reads the input/ output and difference in temperature across the intercooler. The intercooler is after the twin screw compressor and before the intake of the engine.

 

On a typical fall day - 65 degrees - the exit temperature of the Whipple is between 200 and 215 degrees - pretty hot. The intercooler in street traffic [35 mph] shows a drop of 65 degrees which is not bad, at highway speeds [65 mph] the drop is 90 degrees - really impressive.

 

This drop in temperature allows me to run that kind of boost without worrying about detonation, even in the hot summer weather in Houston.

 

The intercooler uses a water cooled exchanger and could benefit from better airflow over the exchanger and a booster fan to kick in at lower speeds.

 

For those with an urge to "boost" your performance, think very hard about getting an intercooler - it will save your engine and make the "boost" more productive.

 

Bottom line on the KB, 20 degrees is a drop in the bucket IMHO.

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cdhd2001,

 

Pre-strecthing the belt.  I didn't think of the that.  I am going to do that this weekend and put the 113" belt on, the 114" is stretched and worn a touch from the slipping (before I figured out the idler problem).

 

I have been running the TR-6 plug also running .045 gap and have had success I didn't know if that plug maybe too cold = I have doing a bit of reading on other boards and such.  I was shocked that Powerdyne made no plug recomendations just simply to 'replace if worn'.

 

I actually ended up looking at the Vortech kit instructions to get a little guidance. -  I acutally turned my by-pass valve around following the vortech instructions.  It seems to run a little better.  maybe all psychological.

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I actually ended up looking at the Vortech kit instructions to get a little guidance. -  I acutally turned my by-pass valve around following the vortech instructions.  It seems to run a little better.  maybe all psychological.

What does turning the bypass valve around actually do?  Releive surge?  Leak less boost?

 

thanks!

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