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Castech Cylinder Heads


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I checked on the prices of GM replacement heads for my truck and they are surprisingly cheap - something like $ 320 a piece. Do they come with the valves installed?

 

 

Did you discover you actually have the suspect heads?

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I checked on the prices of GM replacement heads for my truck and they are surprisingly cheap - something like $ 320 a piece. Do they come with the valves installed?

 

 

Did you discover you actually have the suspect heads?

 

 

No, I do not know. I decided that removing the rockers just to see what heads I have is too much headache. If it meant just removing one valve cover, I would have done it already.

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I've been reading down through this thread & seen several others & I'm not understanding why you pull the rockers on the heads. There is the website & TSBs they tell, show, highlight, point out exactly what & where to find the markings for the Castech heads and no where does it say anything about pulling rockers. Just curious?!?!

 

 

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/plugins/p2_news/printarticle.php?p2_articleid=148

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I checked on the prices of GM replacement heads for my truck and they are surprisingly cheap - something like $ 320 a piece. Do they come with the valves installed?

 

 

Did you discover you actually have the suspect heads?

 

 

No, I do not know. I decided that removing the rockers just to see what heads I have is too much headache. If it meant just removing one valve cover, I would have done it already.

 

 

Aren't you getting a little ahead of yourself? If you don't have the suspect heads then you won't need another set of heads. Removing rockers is as simple as pie BTW.

 

 

I just wanted to know what the price of new heads was. I know it is no big deal to remove the rockers, but still it seems like too much work just to find out what heads are on the truck.

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If you pull the valve covers and they are covered in the oil/dexcool mixture you will know you have Cashtech heads. No further investigation needed. That being said, the passenger side head on my truck looked pretty clean however the head was still bad. The driver's side, there was no doubt the head was bad.

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I've been reading down through this thread & seen several others & I'm not understanding why you pull the rockers on the heads. There is the website & TSBs they tell, show, highlight, point out exactly what & where to find the markings for the Castech heads and no where does it say anything about pulling rockers. Just curious?!?!

 

 

http://www.agcoauto....2_articleid=148

 

 

Is there a reason this does not include 07 classics? Great info by the way.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had to replace the Castech heads on my daughter's 05 Tahoe with about 110,000 miles. My son has a 2005 Sierra and no problem with the heads at 195,000. I just got an 03 Sierra with about 136,000 and hope it doesn't have the defective heads. I also have a 02 work Tahoe and no head problem with about 117,000. I can do the work myself, but it costs about $1000, getting the re-worked heads. I used the company out of Texas and they seemed good and the service was good.

 

For me, the coolant kept getting low, and there was a lot sludge buildup in the oil pan. In fact, it got so bad that when I went to drain it one time, nothing came out. Drain hole was blocked by sludge. If you have this problem, you really need to pull the oil pan and clean it out.

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My daughter told me she has been loosing some coolant. I replaced the heads about a year and a half ago with the refurbished heads. Of course, there could be a leak somewhere else, but I guess I'd better pull the valve covers and check. If one or both are bad, I will loose my trust in refurbished ones. I would probably get a new one and move the valves. Can I just trade out the old valves an put them in the new head, or will I have to have a machine shop lap them in?

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My daughter told me she has been loosing some coolant. I replaced the heads about a year and a half ago with the refurbished heads. Of course, there could be a leak somewhere else, but I guess I'd better pull the valve covers and check. If one or both are bad, I will loose my trust in refurbished ones. I would probably get a new one and move the valves. Can I just trade out the old valves an put them in the new head, or will I have to have a machine shop lap them in?

 

The problem is most likely something else but as someone else mentioned, get an oil analysis if you're concerned.

 

The valves should be taken to a machine shop and ground before installation in a new head. Just to grind the valves should be pretty inexpensive.

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Whew. Just pulled the valve covers and everything looked good. I found a couple of hose clamps that were a little loose and seemed to be leaking a little. Expected the worst, but as often the case, it was a simple fix.

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