2500HD new rim question

OCFreedom · November 20, 2002

Okay...I'm finally breaking down and buying new rims. I have 285 BFG M/T's on stock rollers right now and am looking at either Weld Typhoon's or Centerline Comet III's. I have the torsion bars cranked up but i'm not sure what size rims are gonna fit. If anyone out there has input such as 16X8 VS. 16X10 and input on backspacing I would appreciate it.

1BADHD · November 20, 2002

I am running 16x8 right now. I think its 4" backspacing. I am wanting to go 16x10 but cant find enough info as to whether they will fit or not. If you can come up with some more info, let me know also. Thanks.

JimWilson · November 20, 2002

16x8 should be all you need...

SoMnDMAX · November 20, 2002

The way the 16x8's and 285's rub at full lock, there's just about no way 16x10's will fit without doing some major surgury to the fenderwells or install a lift. I wouldn't run a 285 on a 10" wide wheel anyway. The 285's fit perfect on the 8" wheels.

I'm using 16x8 Centerline Rattlers with 4 5/8" backspacing.

1BADHD · November 20, 2002

The way the 16x8's and 285's rub at full lock, there's just about no way 16x10's will fit without doing some major surgury to the fenderwells or install a lift. I wouldn't run a 285 on a 10" wide wheel anyway. The 285's fit perfect on the 8" wheels.

I'm using 16x8 Centerline Rattlers with 4 5/8" backspacing.

Hmmmmm......My 16x8 and 285 combo doesnt rub at all even while in major flex. I will tell you this, backspacing plays a lot on how much or if you have any rubbing.

OCFreedom · November 20, 2002

1BADHD...What backspacing are u using?

1BADHD · November 20, 2002

1BADHD...What backspacing are u using?

I will have to double check this evening. But I think its 4".

jmeredith · November 20, 2002

I'm running Weld Super Single II's. 16x8. Weld wheels come in 3-5/8" and 4-5/8" backspacing. You need the 4-5/8" version. Factory wheels are 5" backspacing. The 3-5/8" backspacing would never work--your front tires would hit the bumper when turned (not the air dam, the bumper).

I did have rubbing with my 285/75/16 BFG AT's on these wheels at full lock. I chose to cut away portions of the plastic wheel well liner rather than adjust torsion bars and I of course had to trim the air dam. Now I have no rubbing at all.

I would recommend taking the air dam off or cutting prior to having the wheels and tires installed. You'll only be able to turn about 20 degrees before contact with the air dam. It's easy to remove (once you figure out how the fasteners work) but much easier to cut.

Here's a pic:

mannytranny402 · November 20, 2002

Could someone clue me in on how all this tire stuff works? Why would you have to crank the torsion bars? What does that do? How wider are the stock rims? How big of a tire could I put on there without a lift or major fender work? Would 265's or 285's work with stock rims without cranking the torsion bars? Thanks...

jmeredith · November 20, 2002

You'll find all sorts of info by using the search functionality here. I know I spent a great deal of time here before I upgraded my wheels and tires.

To answer your questions...

Cranking torsion bars adds some lift (<1.5") to the front end which will give you a little more room for larger tires. Cranking too much requires an aligment, affects ride, and is generally speaking harder on front end components (if you crank too much). Search here on "torsion bars" and you'll find all sorts of info and first hand experiences.

Stock rims on HD's are 6.5" which limits you to a 265/75. Some say you can put a 285 on a 6.5" rim but again, do the search and decide for yourself. I chose not to mainly because I will be towing heavy loads. My conclusion was 285's on 6.5's is too risky (dangerous) for my taste. I have also seen folks do it only to later upgrade rims to do excessive tire wear (crowning).

285/75's "fit" on stock rims with no rubbing

265/75's are your best choice (IMHO) if you're sticking with stock rims

If you upgrade rims, go to 16x8 with no less than 4.5" backspacing (distance from inside of rim edge to mounting surface). 16x8 rims make the tire considerably wider, thus making it stick farther out of the wheelwell which in turn causes the rubbing issues on the airdam (the plastic piece under the bumper).

Also, consider your engine size and gear ratio. If you have a smaller engine and 3.73 gears you're going to lose a good deal of pulling power when adding larger tires. Again, much has been discussed on this topic. Just search away... I just bought my new rig and chose the 8.1 and 4.10 gears for this reason.

-jm

1BADHD · November 20, 2002

1BADHD...What backspacing are u using?

I will have to double check this evening. But I think its 4".

Ok, I checked and it is 4.5" back spacing.

OCFreedom · November 21, 2002

Thanks man...Anyone have any input on Weld vs Centerline.......As far as upkeep and luster retention?

1BADHD · November 21, 2002

I had Welds then bought the Centerlines I have now. Really they are both the same. They only look as good as the amount of work you put into them. Both polish up well. I polish mine probably once a month. And take them off and fully polish with a buffer when they need it.

Also on a side note. If you are interested in Weld wheels. Check out what Eagle Alooy has to offer. They have basically the same style rims for roughly half the price. My next set will be a set of AE102's. So these Cobras will be FOR SALE very shortly.

C_3 · November 23, 2002

OCFreedom - I might be interested in your stock wheels. What style are they, and where are you located?

Thanks

OCFreedom · November 23, 2002

My stockers are the polished ones. I'm in Pensacola, Florida. PM me and we'll see what we can work out. I just ordered my new centerline's will prob have them in 3 weeks or so.

RK