Front Diff Fill Plug

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg · August 15, 2011

I rolled over 50k miles so yesterday I changed the rear diff, transfer case (easier than engine oil), and attempted the front diff. However I couldn't get the fill plug off. It was really tight and I started stripping it, and to be honest, I'm not even sure it is the fill plug. Any advice or pics of the fill plug would be greatly appreciated. Oh and of course I'm running all synthetic:) truck feels smoother and shifts into 4wd a lot easier. I know its all psychological but it feels good

Gmt 900, 2007. Autotrack transfer case, 1500.

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg · August 15, 2011

Side note - I wish I would've changed it earlier. Tcase plug had a ton of metal on it and both fluids were dark and dirty

Z45 · August 15, 2011

You need to use the correct tools, a 6 point metric socket and a long handle racket should do the trick. Adjustable wrenches and vise grips are for plumbers.

grampadirt · August 15, 2011

1. fill plug

2. drain plug

3. front diff. actuator

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg · August 15, 2011

Thanks guys, and alright I was tugging at the right bolt. I started using an adjustable wrench, went to a 12 point socket, now I'll go buy a 6 point 17 mil socket. Thanks again

DaveH71 · August 15, 2011

Thanks guys, and alright I was tugging at the right bolt. I started using an adjustable wrench, went to a 12 point socket, now I'll go buy a 6 point 17 mil socket. Thanks again

LOL you kinda went backwards there, should started with the 6 point.

Austin83 · August 15, 2011

Spray it down with PB Blast for a day or so prior to trying it again. PB Blast has worked great for me in the past. I've also had success with using heat to break bolts loose.

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg · August 15, 2011

Lol yea I did, stripping it just a little more every time fml. I'll try the pb blaster and propane combo and keep you guys posted

Austin83 · August 15, 2011

Lol yea I did, stripping it just a little more every time fml. I'll try the pb blaster and propane combo and keep you guys posted

Heat the housing up around the bolt, but don't go crazy with the heat, it doesn't take much. Also PB Blast is probably flamable along with many other things under there. Becareful.

txab · August 16, 2011

Thanks guys, and alright I was tugging at the right bolt. I started using an adjustable wrench, went to a 12 point socket, now I'll go buy a 6 point 17 mil socket. Thanks again

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg · August 18, 2011

Yes I know guys, I'm an idiot haha. Live and learn. I ended up soaking it in pb blaster for a couple days straight, then hammered on a smaller size socket. It got the job done but Im still working on getting the socket back off haha. And rich hooked me up with the part number for the new plug so I'm good to go!

HawkScot · August 18, 2011

Leave the socket on, it will be easier to remove for the next service then.

desrtrat · August 18, 2011

Leave the socket on, it will be easier to remove for the next service then.

and put antiseze compound on the threads..make life easier next time...ALSO make sure you loosen the fill plug first before draining..sucks finding out you can't fill what you just drained...

DaveH71 · August 19, 2011

Not a good idea to use anti seize on a fluid plug, could cause cross contamination. Anti seize isn't something you want in your diff or engine/tranny. A small amount of fresh oil or in this case gear oil on the threads before you screw it back in would be better.

anthony2558 · November 2, 2011

does anyone have a photo of the fill plug for the front end. I'm looking at what appears to be a 17mill bolt, but around that is a larger possibly 1 3/4" diam circle with it?

Also to change the rear fluid do you have to remove the cover? I don't see a drain plug. Just the fill plug on the center right. Anyone know off hand what size wrench is used in there?