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How Tall Is Your Truck


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You guys know that measuring from the fender to the ground is pretty inaccurate, right?

 

Proper way is to measure from the bottom of the WHEEL, not the tire/ground. That way having a low tire (or an overinflated one) wouldn't affect the final number. Not to mention the crazyass amount of difference in like tire sizes from tire brand to tire brand.

 

You have to take into account the wheel diameter (18's will have a different measurement than 20's), but it's much more accurate measuring from the wheel.

 

 

This is true. It's really better to measure from the center of the wheel hub to the fender edge.

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  • 2 months later...
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So what's the distance required from center of wheel hub to bottom of fender to clear 35's? Anyone know?

 

You guys know that measuring from the fender to the ground is pretty inaccurate, right?

 

Proper way is to measure from the bottom of the WHEEL, not the tire/ground. That way having a low tire (or an overinflated one) wouldn't affect the final number. Not to mention the crazyass amount of difference in like tire sizes from tire brand to tire brand.

 

You have to take into account the wheel diameter (18's will have a different measurement than 20's), but it's much more accurate measuring from the wheel.

 

 

This is true. It's really better to measure from the center of the wheel hub to the fender edge.

 

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True, but that has to be a good minimum right?

 

I have no real desire to run a 35 myself, since the truck wont fit in the garage if I lifted it tall enough to run a 35.

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Yea yea, I'm here. The front's would scrub at full lock and shocks compressed, so I cranked the front a few weeks ago and put in some 5" blocks in place of the stock 2 inchers. Now I'm at 42" front and 43.5" rear. Plennnnty of room for 36"-whatevers. Generally people say you'll need a 6" suspension lift and an aftermarket rim with the proper width, backspacing, and offset (but everyone knows that)

 

2783d4cd.jpg

 

But to answer EyesTTW's question, I had Pro Comp 2.5" keys in the front, stock Z71 2" blocks out back, 3" body lift, the correct rims, and ran 35x12.50's just fine. I'll measure my tires tomorrow to see how tall they really are.

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  • 7 months later...

A little update on mine.

 

2005

Silverado 1500

2" Tuff Country Torsion Keys (Driver maxed, Pass. still has some adjustment)

2" Tuff Country Add-A-Leaf rear spring

3" Performance Accessories Body Lift.

265/70/17 BFG AT

39 1/2"

42 1/4"

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2010

Silverado 2500hd 4X4

Ready Lift keys adding 2" to stock front

2" back blocks

Basically lifted truck 2" front and back

285 75 16E Good Year Duratrac

41.5" front

45.5" rear

 

The front tires must be squatting a bit because I measure closer to the 3" rake I started with before the lift when I measure rim to fender.

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  • 4 months later...

Been a while since anyone has been here. Just thought Ide bump it up because I know there are several people here that are lifting (or even lowering) their rides on a daily basis.

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Thanks for bumping this back up...

 

2010 Sierra 1500

CST 3.5" Spindles, Icon C/O's set at 2.5" of lift, 1.25" BL (7.25" Total up front)

4" block in rear with Bilstein 5100's

305/55/20 Terra Grapplers

Front Fenders 45"

Rear Fenders 43.75"

 

DSC_0131.jpg

 

DSC_0132.jpg

 

DSC_0123.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

True, but that has to be a good minimum right?

 

I have no real desire to run a 35 myself, since the truck wont fit in the garage if I lifted it tall enough to run a 35.

 

 

 

Yeah, that tunred out to be a big fib.

 

Just thought Ide update since adding 35s to my truck.

 

2005

 

Silverado 1500

 

2" Tuff Country Torsion Keys (Driver maxed, Pass. still has some adjustment)

2" Tuff Country Add-A-Leaf rear spring

3" Performance Accessories Body Lift.

 

35x12.50/17 BFG KM2 on 17x9 wheels with 0 offset and no rubbing with mild trimming of plastic splash guards. Absolutely no trimming of metal or fender flares.

 

41.5" Front

43" Rear

 

 

And it still fits in the garage with 1.5" to spare.

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