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Finally Finished...


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So as the topic description listed, here are the new truck goodies:

 

1.5" Rough Country Spacer (modified from 2" kit)

3" Zone Offroad Body Lift

20x9 +20mm Fuel Offroad Wheels (Black Mojave)

305/55/20 Nitto Trail Grapplers

6-step Go Rhino Bars

 

 

Before (We all know what this looks like)

Truck-Before-1.jpg

 

 

After

AfterLiftRear-1.jpg

AfterLiftSide.jpg

AfterLiftFront.jpg

 

 

Next I plan on getting some tint on the front windows and black anodizing the kick/step plates on the bars as well as some debadging. I have weather/oil resistant rubber for the front gap guards and have decided to use strips of black ABS plastic for the rear gap guards. A little sandpaper on the surface will get rid of the shine on the ABS and since it is black there won't be a need to paint/undercoat ect. If a rock takes out a chip, it will still be black underneath. I don't plan on removing the front lower valence as I think it makes the front (on the chevys) look too thin from hood to bumper.

 

Special thanks to those of you who remember advising me through PM's. I've got some more things to add, but right now I need to get back to work.

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looks awesome man!

 

those tires look pretty big... what do they actually measure mounted on the truck? (height & width). and fender measurements?

 

its really tough to justify spending $2k on a 4" SL when these gmt900 trucks look so good with a properly installed BL and small leveling kit. well done!

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Next I plan on getting some tint on the front windows and black anodizing the kick/step plates on the bars as well as some debadging.

 

 

You took the words out of my mouth. I don't know why GR thought it was a good idea to add those kick plates.

 

The truck looks great by the way.

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You took the words out of my mouth. I don't know why GR thought it was a good idea to add those kick plates.

 

The truck looks great by the way.

 

It was kind of a suprise to see them there when they arrived. For now I will probably just take out the plates as they are easily removable.

 

 

Matt - will get on the measurements soon.

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Nice, looks sharp! for a second I thought you were an individual I see running around town with the same color scheme (red truck, black wheels), but when I saw you have a Chevy and not a GMC then I knew it wasnt. Good to see another member rocking "Fuel Offroad Wheels" not very common.

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look sick! what about you front hook still usable? Could you also get closer pic of your hitch. I'm looking to do something like that but not sure about the 3"BL because i've read you cant use the front hook no more... and i want to install a hitch too but wondering if it will look out of place.... leaning toward zone 3.5" combo kit right now but might like 3"BL + key better if it can work out...

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Hooks are 100% useable. They are just flipped over and installed with the same hardware. You will have to drill two new holes, but it does not affect functionality. I will take the pics for you as soon as it stops raining here (probably tomorrow).

 

 

Edit - just realized you have an '02. Don't know if that kit is the same or not.

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Not sure if you have had them on long enough to know but have you experienced any rubbing? I'm just about ready to order my 3" Zone body lift and am looking to go with the Trail Grapplers as well. I just haven't make up my mind which size tire go go with. I'm kicking around the 285/65R18, 295/55R20, or the 305/55R20 that you are running. I am wanting to go with the XD Monsters in a +18 offset.

 

Thanks.

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Not sure if you have had them on long enough to know but have you experienced any rubbing? I'm just about ready to order my 3" Zone body lift and am looking to go with the Trail Grapplers as well. I just haven't make up my mind which size tire go go with. I'm kicking around the 285/65R18, 295/55R20, or the 305/55R20 that you are running. I am wanting to go with the XD Monsters in a +18 offset.

 

Thanks.

 

I have 3 inch body lift and 2 inch level with 305/55/20's and +18mm offset XD Monsters. Pretty much what you are doing to your truck. Idk if you planned on a level or not but without the level 305's will rub for sure. I have no rubbing AT ALL. I've only experienced it once when I was backing down a very steep driveway and turning pretty hard.

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I was planning on installing a leveling kit. However, I was hoping to stay in the 1" - 1.5" range to limit ball joint angles. If I have to go to 2" I will. I was just hoping to avoid it. I'd really prefer not to have to trim the truck at all if I can avoid it.

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Here is a picture of the front tow hook area. I had to cut out a little more than the instructions indicated, but I think it still looks fine:

AfterLift-1.jpg

 

Rear view showing hitch/spare tire area:

AfterLift-6.jpg

 

Side view showing tire/fender offset:

AfterLift-5.jpg

 

Close up view of the new wheels/tires. I wanted the other side wall pattern facing out, but oh-well:

AfterLift-7.jpg

 

The tires measure around 33.5" diameter and 12.5-8" wide (hard to pick where to start and stop)

 

 

 

As far as the instructions are concerned, they are pretty good. I found one group of wires attached to the passenger frame rail that needed moved that they didn't address, and found that raising the passenger side up completely first puts some pressure on a bolt against the firewall. Therefore I got a second jack and raised the sides together.

 

So far I am quite happy with the noise level of the tires. Around town they sound similar to the old bridgestone's that were on. On the highway they pick up some hum, but nothing turning the radio on can't get rid of. After seeing them, I was expecting there to be much more noise.

 

 

The only issue I have run into that I could use some help on is with regards to the steering. There seems to be about 5 degrees of free-play in the steering wheel. It's more annoying at highway speeds than at slow speeds. Is this what adding the silicone inside the steering extension should help with?

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yeah that little bit of steering play is because the zone engineers probably had an intern dimension the drawing and used a clearance fit as if it was a bolted connection....

 

although it cant rotate on the shaft, this lets the steering shaft coming out of the firewall sway a bit side-to-side. best solution is to drill/tap a hole in the steering extension for a set screw to lock it in place. they tried this for me but grossly undersized the screw.... ive been meaning to redrill it for a more appropriately sized set screw but havent done it yet. so the silicone caulk has been my temporary fix for the time being...

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