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Hypertech Power Programmer III


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I ordered the Hypertech Power Programmer III today. Any suggestions on where the various setting should be for optimal performance etc...? You can refer to my specs below. I lost some low end when I went to the 35's and the shift points need to be changed as well as the Speedometer calibration. Will this also address some of the sporadic shift stuff you get in the rearend?(someone referred to it earlier and said the dealership can update the trucks computer). Anyway- Let the advise/help commence.

 

Thanks- BTW, finished the NFAB bars and the Patriotic Z71 decals...Will post some more this weekend.

 

Have a great one!

 

-Patrick

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I just never understood a 4.8 in a 4x4, but oh well.

 

I was sluggish with the 5.3, i wonder how much more it is with the 4.8.

 

Max setting for the tires size is 34", but the 315's are about 34.5" so its about perfect.

 

You really wont feel too much of an improvement till you get yourself some 4.56 gears.

 

Try the 92 octane setting and use super all the time.

 

I havnt changed any shift points or rev points, but i have changed shifting performance and firmed up the shifts.

 

Thats about all i can tell you to do for now.

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Did you also get at least a 180 degree thermostat?  Or better yet a 160 degree?

 

Setting more aggressive timing and fuel curves as you can do with an HPPIII wilil require an engine to operate a tad bit cooler (to avoid detonation) than the stock 200+ degrees.

 

Also, if you go with a 4.56 as Di mentions, make sure that is an option in your HPP's menu.

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My 4.8 has about as many horses as the 5.3 (270 vs 285 per the Chevy site)... maybe a little more just from the mods made Between the K&N FIPKII and the Flowmasters alone I gained alot. Anyway- I bought the truck in September of last year. It was the 2001 model and they had 3 they needed to clean off their lot.(There was exactly NO difference between the 2001's and 2002's) They gave me $6K off of the price and 2.9% financing on the purchase for 5years. I think I walked away for about $21K. Interest on the entire 5 year loan is a whopping $800. It is completely loaded and what can I say- You can do alot to a truck for $6K- and its almost like free money with that kind of financing.

 

BTW- I did order the 160 Thermostat at the same time. It was recommended on the Hypertech site.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions- It is much appreciated.

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I have the 4.8 in my 4x4 and it is great, I just wouldnt want it in an extended cab because of the added weight. Back to the Hypertech topic, can you share a programmer??? I have heard you cannot but want to see if anyone hyas tried it!

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I am told you can only use it for one vehicle. My father has one for his Corvette and I know his is that way. It stores the original settings for your vehicle so you can always go back if need be.

 

On the other note...I figure a whipple at about 3K would top the 4.8 at about 400hp and still be less than the 5.3-  :thumbs:

 

Thanks for all the input- Keep it coming.... the ride aint over!

 

-Patrick

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You can only use it on one vehicle at a time.  HPP thought of people who'd "swap" it so they programmed that into it.

 

If you wish to sell it later down the road, you'll need to re-install your stock programming (which the HPP stores when it uploads it's program) and then sell it.

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Getting a little bored- Here are the specs for the Whipple Supercharger. Bolt on application is 3,900.00 complete....

The % at end of each line is %hp gain over stock. Time to start saving......

 

2001 Vortec 4.8L Engine

Horsepower Peak 256 @ 5200 393 @ 5400 137 53%

Torque Peak 283 @ 4000 427 @ 3200 144 51%

Torque Average 2200 - 4000 RPM 269 Ft./Lbs. 410 Ft./Lbs. 141 52%

 

Hope everyone is having a nice day.

 

-Patrick

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Whipples are nice, from one who has one. You wont need the HPP3 for much once you install the Whipple, they override the PCM. If your really going to dot that you might want to think about your drivetrain, higher stall converter, clutches, and a Transgo kit.

 

Of course, once you do all of that, you will discover the "Dreaded Torque Management" thing, that gets cured with a chip re-burn. :thumbs:

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I absolutely love the WHipples and will eventually put one on. Right now I can only afford the Hypertech. My dad has one on his 454 Suburban and the thing MOVES- They are unreal. I love how they sort of sit there in the background using the standard intake until you PUNCH it and the whole thing takes over..... Now Im dreaming.

 

What did you put your on? Was it worth it? and finally..... did you perform the install yourself?

 

-Take care- Almost quittin time

 

-Patrick

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Got the Hypertech yesterday, and the 160 Thermostat should be here today. Funny story though- I get the Hypertech, plug it in and am meticulous about following the instructions.....The thing didnt even have power to it. Had my dad try it (we work in the same office) and he couldnt figure it out. Long story short - I thought hey lets check the fuses. I mean if they make you put on your parking brake just to program it, there could be something there. Well there was- I had blown a 15 amp fuse that ran the cigarette lighter. Now I dont smoke, but the only thing I can think of is that I might have blown it plugging in one of those portable refrig's. Couldnt believe that a fuse for the cigarette lighter would do that.

 

Had fun with the computer and it really does make a difference. I went +2 on the shift points and then firmed it up. Made the changes for the 315's and changed to the 92 Octane. It truly made a difference- I will let you know what happens when I get the Thermostat changed.

 

Thanks again for all the help and tips.

 

-Patrick

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  • 4 weeks later...

Without going into alot of gobbly gook here techinically speaking. Dont bother with all the hype of programmers-modules. They dont do much for the money and be be overtuned. All these units work on the same basic principles regarding input data. They lie basically to the OBD unit. The perimeters of the input signals are amplified by a percentage. They will only work above 3.8 volts, which is 75% throttle opening. The federal laws of emissions WILL NOT allow these companies from changing the emissions tune which is where most of are driving the highest percentage of time. Even so at 75%+ throttle opening the timing and fuel curves after time will be modified ( Learned) by the OBD. I'm not going to go into the learning bit but the 02 sensors are the ones who will do the detecting and modifying. It has to do with actual inlet temps, air densities etc. Changes in these cant allow the timing and fuel curve adavancements do to there being out of a emissions and base calibration of the OBD2 of 14.7:1.

 

I know there will be those who retort this. Yes for a period of time these do work, but in the overall picture it wont. Before you begin to retort please feel free to research this either through the Federal laws, dealers, or even www.obdii.com which is a good source. You want power gains that will stay, cannot be overtuned etc., there is only one way to do this. A complete reflash custom program is the only way. All the data, perimeters etc are dealt with during a flash. Price wise it runs from $350-$500 depending on who does it. How can they go against the federal laws, simple, you agree to OFF ROAD use only.

 

And also a HPP unit can only be used on one vehicle at a time, it takes out the MAF, IAT, and TPS stock voltage data and puts in there own but does not change the emission tune. And be wiery of used units, more times than not the program will not be retruned compete to the HPP unit. ANd I wont go into why. Very Common problem.

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I'll go another step here for those who may want to know this. You want the same thing much cheaper??? Since these programmers-modules are only dealing with 2 areas we can copy the easily. They are timing and fuel maps.

 

Casper Electronics TPS-TEC- $89 It amplifies the whole range by 5% and at 70-75% throttle position tell the OBD that its 100%. This will take care of the fuel map.

Or Reseting and modifying the original TPS- All the motors have a voltage allowance for idle. In my case its 1.2-1.6 volts. You'll find that most are to the very lowest of sides and even under. You simply using a voltage meter probing the lines and a little modifaction to the holes for the TPS set it to maximum or .1 volt over. Gone will be the initial hestitation, throttle readings will be advanced as much as 15% earlier. And some V-8's allready have this adjustable TPS like the LS's and LT's.

SLP IAT GADGET- Resistor from radio shack, Relocated IAT as near to the filter as you can get. This takes care of the timing map by reading or tricking to a lower intake air temp.

Add a lower stat since GM's original program allows for at least 20 degrees in the stock program lower.

Run your 93 octane.

And even play with the amount of EGR gas entering since also GM has given a big allowance there. Limit it. Egr gas is allready spent as far as combustion, so it cant help in making power. Its there to lower combustion temps for NOx emissions only andlike I said has a big allowance built in. GM on average allows up to 30% of the air fuel mix to be EGR gas. Replace that with more of a percentage of combustionable gas and you have more power. It can be taken down to as little as 10-15% total and still met emissions. WHat would you rather have 70% combustionable fuel mix or 80% and higher. and using the lower stat and 93 octane will suppress detonating from the combustion tmeps being a bit higher than norm.

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