400+ Hp 5.3 Natural Aspiration

clayt6499 · March 24, 2010

Another question.... I've heard that installing a supercharger like a Magnacharger doesnt hurt gas mileage any really as long as you can keep your foot out of it.... Is this true? I find it hard to believe...

Big black truck · March 24, 2010

Search youtube for sts turbos. Apparently there is no lag. What I like about them is that they mount away form the engine bay, reducing temp quite a bit, they are also easier to install as you don't have to change headers etc. I have no experience with them. i am citing the reviews I have found.

Nytemare · March 24, 2010

A friend of mine has one on his 870rwhp avalanche. There is a little lag there, it takes time for the big GT40 turbo to spool up. He's got 8-10 psi on tap when he needs it, but to get it to full boost takes a few grand...I think full boost is around 4000rpm. Having said that...the GT40 is a huge turbo. The basic kit comes with a much smaller T3/T4 hybrid turbo...this one attains full boost at about 2000rpm and is good for just about the entire rev range.

For a DD truck, you would see the best bang for your buck from a S/C though...your right on the fuel economy, for both types of Forced air.

Drop Jennabear a PM and ask her the nitty-gritty of the magnacharger...both of her trucks are blown, and her and justin sell them, they own Blackbear Performance.

Big black truck · March 24, 2010

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0411...tall/index.html

This article pretty much covers the STS turbo. There is a chapter on lag.

csheatz · March 25, 2010

Im a late comer to this topic but wow did I miss out on this one.

First thing I want to know, if your looking for throwing endless amounts of cash at a 5.3, why not just get a 6.2? why not buy one from a stealership rather than that 5.3? Next thing, if you have the L33 block there will be no boring! its a AL block with cast iron sleevs. You will need a cam, heads, and intake. I have heard people talking about fitting LS6 heads and intake on the L33 block, I dont know of any truth to this.

I see your claiming about 350 flywheel hp on a engine dyno. I am wondering why the motor was taken out? IRC there has been zero motor work done? So no intake? no headers? and during this dyno run was your PCM removed from the truck and run with the motor? Im not calling you out here I am just looking for answers.

With the right parts and funds a 5.3 can produce around 700hp, Jon Moss did it! but hes got unlimited funding, research deptments, and the abuility to try different things until the right parts are found or are made!

clayt6499 · March 25, 2010

Motor was removed for reapairs to the front of the truck after a wreck with a guardrail. Fell asleep at the wheel. Also when I tried to start the truck again after the wreck there was an electrical fire that I think was caused by my aftermarket subwoofer shorting out on the block. But not sure. As for the dyno, the engine was run with no accesories (ac,alternator, power steering), same intake setup, and open headers, some kind of long tubes, I don't know what kind as they were not mine. And as for being run with the PCM, I have no idea. I didn't think the engine would run without it...... Would it? If so what could they have done to get it to run at all?

csheatz · March 25, 2010

Well this helps a lot.

With no accesories robbing power from the motor and open headers I would think any stock 5.3 should make around these numbers. I am pretty sure SAE governs the hp ratings of engine tests, and the motors have to be run as they are setup in the car/truck with all accesories.

You say you are running a tune, but your dyno results would not reflect these since you cant clairify if your pcm was used or not. Now as far as I know these motors will not run without a pcm, given such things as throttle by wire, fuel injection, and the coils. Not to mention all the other sensors that even if it would run it would not be able to run very well.

So now I ask are you looking for a 400hp motor, 400hp at the flywheel with accesories running or 400hp at the rear wheels?

If this helps my buddy is running a 396 that is about 550hp motor alone, in the car he is down to about 490 at the flywheel, and with a TH400 3500 stall he is somewhere around the 390 at the tires. The 390 at the tires is close to the stock motor output. The block has been bored, crank balanced and blue printed, new ported and polished heads, aftemarket intake, and a 750 holly (I think), long tube headers with remote dumps. there is close to $7000 invested in the motor.

For you modest 50-100hp gain its more cost effective to run a 6.2, or even a 6.0 with a cam and tune. If you have a 4L60E a shift kit will really make you feel some of that power.

Nytemare · March 25, 2010

You can poke and stroke a 5.3L L33 to whatever you need....a 7.0L is basically the same block man. Same as the 6.2...or what have you. The sleeves are pretty thick...I believe the max on them is 4.060" IIRC, and the Iron blocks is a bit larger as they're not just a bonded sleeve.

Big old Agree on the engine swap though....Much more cost effective than a performance All Motor build.

csheatz · March 25, 2010

You can poke and stroke a 5.3L L33 to whatever you need....a 7.0L is basically the same block man. Same as the 6.2...or what have you. The sleeves are pretty thick...I believe the max on them is 4.060" IIRC, and the Iron blocks is a bit larger as they're not just a bonded sleeve.

Big old Agree on the engine swap though....Much more cost effective than a performance All Motor build.

I made a few calls, it is possible to bore a L33, however its less costly to just get a LS 5.7 block, and most machine shops will not do it. If you screw up the sleeves you are screwed unless you work for the company that makes them (haha I do ).

I still say its cheaper to get a motor from a wreck (6.0/6.2) and build it out, or like I said before the LS6 top end should go right on with little to no mods. I dont know what gains this would give but its a hella start.

clayt6499 · March 25, 2010

Ok. and 400hp at the flywheel again. it would take a substantial amount of work to get 400 to the rear wheels. i know this. And I would LOVE to drop a new 6.2 in it. Trust me. but what all would need to be done to get that to work with the current transmission. I know the 6.2 only comes with the 6speed and i dont believe it will match straight up to my 4 speed. also has anyone found a 6.2 and done this kind of swap? If so what were the overal costs of it? BTW THIS FORUM ROCKS! I have already gathered an enormous amount of info from just this thread. Just in case anybody is curious as to why i want this extra power its because I'm getting ready to put a BDS 6 inch lift on my truck with a set of 35's. I have ridden around in countless lifted trucks and I can't stand how they feel like they have such a lack in power. granted most the idiots around here run the stock gears in their trucks (and run bloody straight pipes. UGH!) and that can account for some of the sluggish feel. Which i will address with either a set of 4.30 or 4.56 gears in my truck (currently running 3.73's) but i still feel like even with an equivalent to stock ratio to account for the tires, the overall increase in mass from the lift, increase in rotating mass on the tires, and decrease in aerodynamics will still make the truck feel down on power. Im hoping to try to at least cure that a little. And btw just cause I've noticed some people out there really like the way the All terrain package rims look I might be selling mine in the future. And I'd like them to find a home on another Gm fan's truck where they rightfully belong.

Nytemare · March 25, 2010

Ok. and 400hp at the flywheel again. it would take a substantial amount of work to get 400 to the rear wheels. i know this. And I would LOVE to drop a new 6.2 in it. Trust me. but what all would need to be done to get that to work with the current transmission. I know the 6.2 only comes with the 6speed and i dont believe it will match straight up to my 4 speed. also has anyone found a 6.2 and done this kind of swap? If so what were the overal costs of it? BTW THIS FORUM ROCKS! I have already gathered an enormous amount of info from just this thread. Just in case anybody is curious as to why i want this extra power its because I'm getting ready to put a BDS 6 inch lift on my truck with a set of 35's. I have ridden around in countless lifted trucks and I can't stand how they feel like they have such a lack in power. granted most the idiots around here run the stock gears in their trucks (and run bloody straight pipes. UGH!) and that can account for some of the sluggish feel. Which i will address with either a set of 4.30 or 4.56 gears in my truck (currently running 3.73's) but i still feel like even with an equivalent to stock ratio to account for the tires, the overall increase in mass from the lift, increase in rotating mass on the tires, and decrease in aerodynamics will still make the truck feel down on power. Im hoping to try to at least cure that a little. And btw just cause I've noticed some people out there really like the way the All terrain package rims look I might be selling mine in the future. And I'd like them to find a home on another Gm fan's truck where they rightfully belong.

Oh hell yes...4.56's and a blower and your golden....magnacharger all the way for your application.

clayt6499 · March 25, 2010

Haha I like that idea. Btw anybody think a h pipe or x pipe would help at all? If so is there that big of a difference in the two? I do want a good performance enhancing exhaust. And at the same time I like my GMC loud and proud to scare away silly fords and dodges. But I absolutely hate straight pipes. The most annoying idea ever put to use. I like having a nice deep even tone that's just loud in the sense

of thunder being loud. Not the fireworks going off in metal coffee can loud of straight pipes. Btw why does everyone suggest 4.56's for 35's. According to my calculations, the correct gear to get the same ratio as stock with 3.73's is 4.22. So why wouldn't 4.30 be the better choice for a new stock ratio?

clayt6499 · March 25, 2010

Oh and hey 2006Z71, my truck is red too! Hahaha, so does that mean I can join the red truck club? It's the GMC fire red with black interior, tool box, and bed liner. And needless to say I'm from Georgia and I like my red and black haha.

csheatz · March 26, 2010

Oh and hey 2006Z71, my truck is red too! Hahaha, so does that mean I can join the red truck club? It's the GMC fire red with black interior, tool box, and bed liner. And needless to say I'm from Georgia and I like my red and black haha.

Search for the red truck club and add yourself. red trucks are the only way to go!

Nytemare · March 26, 2010

Haha I like that idea. Btw anybody think a h pipe or x pipe would help at all? If so is there that big of a difference in the two? I do want a good performance enhancing exhaust. And at the same time I like my GMC loud and proud to scare away silly fords and dodges. But I absolutely hate straight pipes. The most annoying idea ever put to use. I like having a nice deep even tone that's just loud in the sense
of thunder being loud. Not the fireworks going off in metal coffee can loud of straight pipes. Btw why does everyone suggest 4.56's for 35's. According to my calculations, the correct gear to get the same ratio as stock with 3.73's is 4.22. So why wouldn't 4.30 be the better choice for a new stock ratio?

Best exhaust for power gains would be a 3" single exhaust...loud deep and will actually gain power...duals will only make you lose low end...you don't want that.....having said that, if you go with a blower, it doesn't matter...you don't need scavenging with Forced Induction applications.

The X pipe is better for flow, but is raspy sounding up in the higher rpm's where the H-pipe is a little worse for flow, but has a deeper mellower tone. 3" single will five you the best of both worlds.

4.56 gears are recommended as they are easier to get for GM applications that's all. They would actually give you a 4.10 effective ratio...a lot better for towing and getting off the line than 3.73's would.