How-To: Heated Steering Wheel Install GMT900 Sierra.

Rock1500 · January 28, 2015

Is there any website that would sell the steering wheel and heating unit? I would like to do this to my truck if possible.

Zebrafive · January 28, 2015

Google the part number of the one you want. (several prior posts list them) Plenty of online sellers will pop up from that search.

Rock1500 · January 28, 2015

Google the part number of the one you want. (several prior posts list them) Plenty of online sellers will pop up from that search.

thanks

fivepnt0 · February 18, 2015

Is there any website that would sell the steering wheel and heating unit? I would like to do this to my truck if possible.

After collecting every bit of info on the internet I could round up. I did this mod to my 2007 Avalanche LT-3

I was surprised to find the vehicle side green connector already on my vehicle. More on that later.

I did not disconnect my battery or pull any fuses. Make sure the wheels and wheel itself are in the straight, 12 o'clock position. Use the new wheel to reference how the airbag clips work. Use a round punch, or Allen wrench to depress the clips. You can do one at a time if you don't let the first one clip back in while doing the second. Be very careful disconnecting and connecting the airbag. DO NOT USE METAL PICK TOOLS to remove the clips, obviously. Treat the airbag like a carton of eggs, not a live grenade. Everybody makes it sound like it's going to kill you or randomly go off. The only chances of that is shorting out wires or plugging the wrong connector in. They are color coded. Verify the two connectors on the new and old are identical before even touching them. There are two styles and I do not know which year it changed. You do not need a steering wheel puller. It's not pressed on with a press, just gets compressed by the nut. I had a steering wheel nut socket so I can't tell you the exact size. Remove the nut, then thread it back on a solid 2-3 threads. Grab both sides of the wheel, push on one side and pull on the other and alternate sides while pulling toward you. Within 3-4 rocks back n forth it will be loose. The nut keeps you from hitting yourself in the face when it comes loose. Also not to rip out the wires. Remove the tilt lever with a plastic pry tool. It just pops straight out, no bolts. Remove top and bottom shroud, gently unless you have a new one as I did. I changed the shifter boot, shroud, ignition tumbler, and tilt lever because they were worn and cheap to replace. Now's the time. Also have some wipes on hand because everything's dirty under there. Disconnect the connectors and remove the SIR coil. DO NOT spin or turn it. Tape it together and it could be sold or saved. Put the new coil on, route the cables. Break the alignment tab off if your all lined up and sure. Put the shrouds back on. Install the wheel. Verify all plugs are in the correct place. Line the keyway up and tighten the steering nut. I had the green plug on the vehicle side, it didn't work. Maybe that's why everybody was screaming OMG you have to program the BCM. Who knows. I left the vehicle side green plug and cut the SIR coil connector off, leaving the most wire possible. Find yourself a good clean ground under the dash. Lots of choice. Find a good source for 12v ignition, not ACC or 12V battery. Plenty of choices. There is somebody on here selling a pigtail for the Silverado, I didn't have time to wait for it but I would have spent the 12 or $25 he wanted for either just to save from searching. There is a fuse box by your left foot, or get the fuse pigtail (AutoZone or Advanced has them) for the side fuse panel behind the driver door. Solder and heat shrink your wires, don't be lazy and butt connector or spade this stuff. They fail after a while. As far as testing the wheel, I kept reading, it has to have a resistance or it's broke. I have access to dozens of multimeters, from $5 to $6,000. Not one of these read the resistance of the heater coil. I was worried my eBay find was junk, it was fine. The only real way to know is get it all hooked up with a new SIR coil. You can power it from 12v right to the green connector, not sure if this is before or after the switch. My old wheel leather was worn, the button covers had half the paint missing. The buttons were in good shape. I got a wheel from a 2014 Tahoe, no wood insert. The backlight is green like mine and the button covers were brushed and in perfect condition. These alone are $75 from a dealer. I paid $205 for my heated wheel, all the buttons and the two brushed covers. $140 for the new SIR coil, don't mess with a used one. So $345 I have a heated wheel. I cant paint the two old covers and sell my old wheel and coil for around $200 probably. So really this is a great upgrade. The wheel starts heating up in about 20-30 seconds. Gets pretty hot, then the steel core of the wheel starts to soak up the heat, within a few minutes drive the whole thing is toasty and I usually turn it off. But damn is it nice to have after pumping gas with a -35 wind-chill, get in and grab a warm wheel. Hope this further helps any input or worries anyone had with this project. I had all intensions of doing a pic by pic demo, but it was cold out and I was in a hurry. The ones at the beginning of this post work just fine.

07-13 Chevrolet GMC Cadillac Silverado Sierra Clock Spring SIR Coil GM 25966964

2014 TAHOE

Zebrafive · February 18, 2015

Since your Avalanche had the green connector it could have been prewired? OR just your column wiring harness was the one for a heated steering wheel and dash harness did not support the heated wheel? Too late now, but check and see if you have a fuse installed in the under hood fuse block, #48, 10A HTD STR/WHL. This may help some one else that finds they have the green connector in the vehicle.

The 12v wire for the green connector goes first to the heated steering wheel module (in the steering wheel). You have to select a 12v source that is "hot" only when the key is in "run" or "acc" or your battery will go dead in a few hours even if the switch for the heated wheel is off. Yes, you covered this too.

Steering wheel nut 21mm or 13/16" should fit.

I prefer to use a steering wheel puller. I worry the aluminum steering wheel shaft hole would egg shape, rocking the wheel to remove it.

For the tilt lever removal, I just pulled it off, yanking by hand to the left.

There was an airbag change in 2013, hence a SIR coil change too. Connectors are different for the airbag. Connector colors changed too. Part number you listed is for 2007-2012. New part number for 2013s 22911594

I totally agree with your replacing worn parts while you have it apart, and doing a professional wiring job.

The only other thing I can add; if disconnecting the battery (I did so the horn would not "honk" while I tried to get the airbag released) is move your seat all the way back if it is power First.

Edited February 18, 2015 by Zebrafive

09SierraZ71 · September 26, 2015

Hey just a quick question for those of you that have done this project:
-when hooking the battery back up, was your radio locked?

I can't seem to find a radio code or any info online except that the vin is paired from the bcm to radio.

I got all my stuff ready to go, ebony heated (22947767) and clock spring, just did not want to do to without the radio lock out info.

I was going to make my own connector for the heated wire (power and ground) but does anyone know if i can get the clip with the pig tail?

I agree with Zebrafive ^ The steering wheel puller is a definite must. It's cheap too, can be had for 30 bucks from princess auto or where-ever.

Zebrafive · October 8, 2015

Radio will not be locked. Radio communicates vin to bcm and when it matches stored vin radio will work. I am not sure when LOCKED radios were discontinued. I had a 1999 S10 Blazer that the radio could be locked. Later a 2004 Impala that was vin to bcm rather than locking.

I disconnect the battery. It was disconnected until finished. Radio worked after reconnection.

What "clip" are you referring to?

orion1123 · December 8, 2015

I would like to do this to my 2015 Silverado LT. I would like to replace it with the steering wheel from a 2015 Silverado LTZ. The steering wheels appear to be identical, with the addition of the heating option for the LTZ wheel.

I have one question(which might be stupid) but: Can I use my existing clockspring and just run my 12v hot wire and ground wire directly to the heating steering wheel plug on the new LTZ wheel? I would think the steering wheel harness connection to SIR should be same?? Thank you for your input

Edited December 8, 2015 by orion1123

Zebrafive · December 8, 2015

Wiring has to go thru the SIR coil, or wires would be cut by turning the steering wheel.

orion1123 · December 10, 2015

Wiring has to go thru the SIR coil, or wires would be cut by turning the steering wheel.

Thank you!

orion1123 · January 3, 2016

Thanks to the info in this, I was able to replace the 2015 steering wheel in my Silverado LT to the 2015 Silverado LTZ steering wheel with heat. I just wanted to add the info for anyone thinking about doing this to their 2014 or later truck and to add some info that I couldn't find in this post:

1. First, I wasn't quite sure on how to remove my airbag. I found this post that really helped. Also, it really helps to remove the plastic column covers FIRST, so you can access the holes in the back of the steering wheel. Here is a link to the post with pictures:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/163179-removing-the-air-bag-and-steering-wheel/

2. The Heated Steering Wheel Plug is not green anymore, it is now black. Also the two wires are purple/white stripe (HOT) and black (GROUND). I was not able to find a plug that would fit, so I cut the plug end off (from the truck side of the SIR Coil). I then directly connected my HOT wire to the purple wire and connected my GROUND wire to the black wire.

This swap was very easy and took about 3 hrs from start to finish. The heat comes on when I push the button (it is not dependent on the outside temp). I did not need to reprogram the BCM, it worked immediately. Let me know if anyone has any other questions

Zebrafive · January 4, 2016

Can you post pictures of the black connector you cut off?

Does the 2015 have an IP Junction Block, like the 2007-2013s?

orion1123 · January 5, 2016

Can you post pictures of the black connector you cut off?

Does the 2015 have an IP Junction Block, like the 2007-2013s?

There was no Junction Block like 2007-2013.... Just the two wires that go into the SIR

chartersj · February 9, 2016

Just found out about this mod. To do this to my 2011 silverado ltz are the part numbers still,

Heated black wheel without wood - 22947767

clock spring SIR coil - 25966964

harness - 25807858 - And is this still necessary to get?

orion1123 · February 9, 2016

Just found out about this mod. To do this to my 2011 silverado ltz are the part numbers still,

Heated black wheel without wood - 22947767

clock spring SIR coil - 25966964

harness - 25807858 - And is this still necessary to get?

Not sure on part numbers, but as others have stated in this thread, you don't really need to spend the money on the harness. It is very easy to to run a positive and a ground wire, so that you don't need the harness.