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Evap Vent Valve Solenoid


kschein@aarcorp.com

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Not disagreeing with you in the least as far as shady characters go. I've been doing this 26 years and I've seen all kinds. I have a pretty good crew these days though. All I was suggesting is the $100 in my shop is for a soup to nuts diagnostic. I do have to add though if I were running up to the service drive for everyone that wanted a code pulled... or a quick check, I'd be up there all day for nuthin and be living under a bridge. Gm has always had handhelds up until 2010. It takes me 20 minutes just to get Global Diagnostics fired up and pull a code out of a Camaro! :thumbs:

 

Cheers.

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i used to pull codes for the svc mgr and was always alittle angry as to why just tell him what it was and then clear it ,made no sense,but ya $100 to scan a veh caught my attn but didn't reply because customers that have been thru that crap don't see how it could be different else where.

 

thank ***k I am not at a dealer anymore and I left just when global connect started , 20 min to pull a code now ,holy chit !!

 

later,welcome Bill,where ya from?

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Not disagreeing with you in the least as far as shady characters go. I've been doing this 26 years and I've seen all kinds. I have a pretty good crew these days though. All I was suggesting is the $100 in my shop is for a soup to nuts diagnostic. I do have to add though if I were running up to the service drive for everyone that wanted a code pulled... or a quick check, I'd be up there all day for nuthin and be living under a bridge. Gm has always had handhelds up until 2010. It takes me 20 minutes just to get Global Diagnostics fired up and pull a code out of a Camaro! :troll:

 

Cheers.

 

 

20 minutes just to get connected !!!!....does Warranty time cover that ???...probably not :jester: . Glad I got outa the business, it sounds like it getting harder to make a living....at least honestly.

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Having the same issue on my 06 4.8. My local Chevrolet dealer service guy came out and hooked a small handheld to my 06 and didn't charge me anything. He reset it the light and told me to drive it for 100 miles and see if the light comes back on.

The closest Advance Auto to me is 75 miles. Autozone and Oreilly's say it's a dealer item.

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By the way....The service blletin on this issue, justifing the redesigned part, isnt even for the P0449 code. It is for the P0446 code, which is the code that means the soleniod is not opening and/or closing correctly. This is the code usually caused by dirt and mud being sucked into the solenoid, thus preventing it from opening or closing, thus the reason for the redesigned part, relocating the newly added filter box to a location less likely to ingest dirt....There is nothing electrically wrong with the origional part, the location is the only real issue....Solution is to 1. after the fuel nozzel clicks off the first time, the tank is FULL, don't try to squeeze more gas into it, and 2. stay away from flooded roads, and lots of muddy trails. 3. If you will be offroading, or driving in extremely dirty situations, remove the solenoid as instructed above, pull the top off the canister, and clean it out with compressed air(no liquids) and reinstall......same theory as your trucks air filter on the engine........

 

 

Thank alot man everything work out find, you are on point with this one.

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I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3L. I am getiing engine trouble code P0449---

Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction. Where is the vent valve/solenoid located? I am assuming that I need to change it.

 

 

Hey man...Don't listen to any of this mumbo.....I had the same thing happen on my 06 Silverado...Here is what you do

1. locate the vent valve soleniod in front of the fuel tank(right about where the cab and bed meet). It is a small black canister about 3 inches in length, with a wire plug, and a black hoses attached.

2. Remove it by unpuging wire connector(lift the clip and pull plug out), unfasten from frame(lift the clip and slide off). and undo black hose from canister it runs into(pull outward on the 2 clips). Each of the 3 fasteners has to be sort of unclipped from their fastener...This takes a few minutes to figure out, but is fairly easy.The one with the 2 clips is the hardest, gotta kind of finagle it a bit...

3. Once removed, go to your Chevy dealer parts department, and ask for a vent valve solenoid for a 06 suburban...Yes 06 suburban 1500 2wd ls. Let me explain why. The suburban part is an exact match of what you will remove from your truck. Cost is @ 25.00. The redesigned part for your truck, if you let the parts guy look it up is 150.00-175.00...Total BS on chevy's part. The parts people will tell you you need the redesigned part, put put some logic into it...25 vs 175, and if the part was so defective, why are they still using it on the suburban.....I would rather spend 25, and chance having to replace it again in a few years, rather than 175 with the same NO GUARANTEE....

4. You will also need an 8 inch peice of heater hose, and 2 hose clamps, because you will need to cut the old hard plastic hose of of the fitting that goes into the canister under the truck, slip the new hose over the hard plastic on, and onto the fitting, and hoseclamp each end tight

*** try to measure the origional length of the assembly before hand, and cut the piece of new hose to match the origional length, so reinstallation will match up perfectly

5. Last, you will need to clear the code from the ecm, to get the engine light to shut off. I recomend going to your local Autozone, or parts store that will hook up a scanner for free....Dont go with the unplugging the battery theory, as this is known to cause issues with the AC vent control blowing hot air on one side instead of cold....

 

By the way....The P0449 code means that the computer is not getting the correct voltage reading from that solenoid...Overfilling or topping of the fuel tank and purging fuel through the hose into this solenoid is the leading cause...Or the truck going through lots of water-mud, thus sucking crap up into the solenoid same as the fuel being forced into it....This action kind of shorts out the solenoid, or damages it enough to throw off the voltage reading it sends back to the ecm......

 

Hope this helps...let me know how it all turns out.....

 

 

 

You are right on point with this one, advance auto reset check engine light and everything is okay. Thank you, KRS-ONE

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I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3L. I am getiing engine trouble code P0449---

Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction. Where is the vent valve/solenoid located? I am assuming that I need to change it.

 

 

Hey man...Don't listen to any of this mumbo.....I had the same thing happen on my 06 Silverado...Here is what you do

1. locate the vent valve soleniod in front of the fuel tank(right about where the cab and bed meet). It is a small black canister about 3 inches in length, with a wire plug, and a black hoses attached.

2. Remove it by unpuging wire connector(lift the clip and pull plug out), unfasten from frame(lift the clip and slide off). and undo black hose from canister it runs into(pull outward on the 2 clips). Each of the 3 fasteners has to be sort of unclipped from their fastener...This takes a few minutes to figure out, but is fairly easy.The one with the 2 clips is the hardest, gotta kind of finagle it a bit...

3. Once removed, go to your Chevy dealer parts department, and ask for a vent valve solenoid for a 06 suburban...Yes 06 suburban 1500 2wd ls. Let me explain why. The suburban part is an exact match of what you will remove from your truck. Cost is @ 25.00. The redesigned part for your truck, if you let the parts guy look it up is 150.00-175.00...Total BS on chevy's part. The parts people will tell you you need the redesigned part, put put some logic into it...25 vs 175, and if the part was so defective, why are they still using it on the suburban.....I would rather spend 25, and chance having to replace it again in a few years, rather than 175 with the same NO GUARANTEE....

4. You will also need an 8 inch peice of heater hose, and 2 hose clamps, because you will need to cut the old hard plastic hose of of the fitting that goes into the canister under the truck, slip the new hose over the hard plastic on, and onto the fitting, and hoseclamp each end tight

*** try to measure the origional length of the assembly before hand, and cut the piece of new hose to match the origional length, so reinstallation will match up perfectly

5. Last, you will need to clear the code from the ecm, to get the engine light to shut off. I recomend going to your local Autozone, or parts store that will hook up a scanner for free....Dont go with the unplugging the battery theory, as this is known to cause issues with the AC vent control blowing hot air on one side instead of cold....

 

By the way....The P0449 code means that the computer is not getting the correct voltage reading from that solenoid...Overfilling or topping of the fuel tank and purging fuel through the hose into this solenoid is the leading cause...Or the truck going through lots of water-mud, thus sucking crap up into the solenoid same as the fuel being forced into it....This action kind of shorts out the solenoid, or damages it enough to throw off the voltage reading it sends back to the ecm......

 

Hope this helps...let me know how it all turns out.....

 

 

 

You are right on point with this one, advance auto reset check engine light and everything is okay. Thank you, KRS-ONE

 

 

 

cause issues with the AC vent control blowing hot air on one side instead of cold....

are you kiding?

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Thanks for the good info Odayflor! I have a 2005 Gmc that was having the same issue with the Evap vent valve. After I read your Post, it all made sense & I bought one at Advanced Auto for $23.00. There are 2 of them, one is a single port for $23, the other is a dual port for $150. Make sure the Auto parts people are looking up the right one. Check Engine light is gone! Really Appreciate people like you that try to help us save a buck! I'll spend a little money trying a few parts before I go to a dealership & spend a bunch. If I wanted to go to a dealership, I obviously wouldn't be looking at forum sights to find a cheaper alternative. Thanks again!

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I have an 03 suburban with the P0449 code. Which is what brought me to this post. After reading the comments on this post I would like to tell my experience with this issue...so far. I was always told it is better to take it to the dealer, they should know the car better than anybody. But I like doing my own work....saving money, I know what was done to the truck and what wasn't, the satisfaction of doing it myself, and I like to learn. I personally know more about older vehicles than I do with all these sensors and computer etc. they make the cars with now a days. (No I am not that old though lol)

I went to the dealer to read my codes, they normally charge $75 for this. But this time I got lucky and they just pulled them real quick. They told me it was a sensor (cant remember the name of it that they said and they didn't tell me the code) but it does something like the knock sensor, has something to do with the fuel system but it is 4 hours labor internally in the engine to get to it and about $500. I had to figure out how to come up with the money and was going to let them do the job cuz I had no idea what the heck they were talking about. Finally I went to pep boys just to get codes, sorry dont let them touch my truck either. Came up as P0049, P0420, P0430. Called the dealer a few different times to find out what part they were talking about the first time and NOBODY knows what it is they were saying.

So that is one experience I have had with the dealer and I am not putting them down as I have had some good experiences but I more less feel like I am being taken advantage of just as at any other shop. I was surprised to see the comments from the guys here that seemed to feel the same. I just took it that way because I am a woman and I know shops like to take advantage of us cuz they think we don't know anything and can charge us for whatever. I have alot of respect for the guys on here that know what they are talking about and are willing to give advice and I thank you.

This is also one of the few times that the part is cheaper at the dealer than the after market stores. So, I am hoping that the valve or canister is throwing a false cat and 02 code. This is another reason I do work myself, because if it is the cats and the pruge, I can't afford to pay someone to fix all the problems. I am a single working mother of 6 and NO support of any kind.

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I have an 03 suburban with the P0449 code. Which is what brought me to this post. After reading the comments on this post I would like to tell my experience with this issue...so far. I was always told it is better to take it to the dealer, they should know the car better than anybody. But I like doing my own work....saving money, I know what was done to the truck and what wasn't, the satisfaction of doing it myself, and I like to learn. I personally know more about older vehicles than I do with all these sensors and computer etc. they make the cars with now a days. (No I am not that old though lol)

I went to the dealer to read my codes, they normally charge $75 for this. But this time I got lucky and they just pulled them real quick. They told me it was a sensor (cant remember the name of it that they said and they didn't tell me the code) but it does something like the knock sensor, has something to do with the fuel system but it is 4 hours labor internally in the engine to get to it and about $500. I had to figure out how to come up with the money and was going to let them do the job cuz I had no idea what the heck they were talking about. Finally I went to pep boys just to get codes, sorry dont let them touch my truck either. Came up as P0049, P0420, P0430. Called the dealer a few different times to find out what part they were talking about the first time and NOBODY knows what it is they were saying.

So that is one experience I have had with the dealer and I am not putting them down as I have had some good experiences but I more less feel like I am being taken advantage of just as at any other shop. I was surprised to see the comments from the guys here that seemed to feel the same. I just took it that way because I am a woman and I know shops like to take advantage of us cuz they think we don't know anything and can charge us for whatever. I have alot of respect for the guys on here that know what they are talking about and are willing to give advice and I thank you.

This is also one of the few times that the part is cheaper at the dealer than the after market stores. So, I am hoping that the valve or canister is throwing a false cat and 02 code. This is another reason I do work myself, because if it is the cats and the pruge, I can't afford to pay someone to fix all the problems. I am a single working mother of 6 and NO support of any kind.

P0490 code will not cause a bad cat code. Have you had the codes cleared to see if they return? You might have both post cat sensors bad or you might have both cats bad. You can have the cats checked to see if they are the problem.

 

From personal experience, several years back, on another vehicle of mine, I got the bad cat codes after feeding it a steady diet of Wal-Mart fuel. Quit putting that in there and the cat codes stayed cleared

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txab...question

 

Im getting p0420, p0455

 

I have gotten them in past and cleared them. It does keep coming back but not often after i clear them. And they come separately not together.

 

for past few tanks ive been using 93 and from good station.

 

What should i do about these

 

thanks

Edited by tooch420
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P0420 is related to your catalytic converters. It could be a faulty O2 sensor(s) or a bad cat. Or it can be caused in some cases by poor quality fuels. I had problems with one of my vehicles getting P0420, but it cleared up after only running fuel from a top tier fuel outlet. Another words stay away from cheap crappy fuels for starters. It's not the octane, it's the quality of the fuel

 

 

The P0455 indicates you have a large evap leak in your system. It could be a loose or faulty gas cap or you may have a leak elsewhere.

 

Look this thread over to understand more.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/104569-the-evap-system/

Edited by txab
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P0420 is related to your catalytic converters. It could be a faulty O2 sensor(s) or a bad cat. Or it can be caused in some cases by poor quality fuels. I had problems with one of my vehicles getting P0420, but it cleared up after only running fuel from a top tier fuel outlet. Another words stay away from cheap crappy fuels for starters. It's not the octane, it's the quality of the fuel

 

 

The P0455 indicates you have a large evap leak in your system. It could be a loose or faulty gas cap or you may have a leak elsewhere.

 

Look this thread over to understand more.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/104569-the-evap-system/

This was very informative thanks. I do have problem filling, it always clicks off if gun is in straight. I have to cock if off to the side or pull it out a little to have it fill right. VERY annoying.

 

Also, I have gotten a warning: "Tighten Gas Cap" when it was on

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