Got a brake job

Torque Junkie · December 7, 2001

Unfortuantely, I don't know enough, and am not persistant enough to do a rear brake job, so I took it in to have it done.

My rear drums were locking under light braking on gravel, and on wet and snowy roads. And on dry pavement, it was pulling HARD to the right. The shoes were completely gone and the drums were badly grooved - but were salvageable. Total: $200. I've known about this since i bought the truck but have just been putting it off. When I put it sideways because the rear wheels locked while trying to stop on an icy road, thats when I knew it was time.

In addition, my passenger side TieRod end needs replacement (this too I knew about but was putting off) and that's another $90.

My rear U-Joint is worn too, but I'm going to save that until I do the tranny swap.

My front brakes also need new pads, but I'm going to do that myself. Disc brakes are easy to work with.

Theres another $300 out the door. dang I really need to sell my car.

-Mike

mikeb · December 8, 2001

You should take a shot at it one day. Drum brakes aren't bad at all, done a lot of them, but for you it would be nice to have someone help you the first time. If you do try one day just get manual and look at the pictures comparing what they show and what you actually have. Remove the drums and without removing anything else, take them and have them turned, pick up the new shoes at the same time. Then all you have to do is take one side apart at a time, clean the parts with brake cleaner and reassemble. If you get into trouble just look at the other side, it'll be the mirror of image of what your working on. Put it back together and then do the other side. It's not really that complicated at all. I've got a brake spring tool that helps, but I've done it with screw drivers also, a little more tricky, and you could probably rent one from the parts store. Saves a lot of bucks.

Torque Junkie · December 10, 2001

I would have done it myself if it hadn't been 20 degrees outside and I had a shop.

Now that i know what that wierd vibration is, it's starting to worry me, so I took it in today and am having the rear U-joints replaced too. Ouch.

Anyone want to buy a Camaro??

-Mike

mikeb · December 11, 2001

20 degrees and no garage, I wouldn't have done it either. Worth giving some guy the bucks to do it, don't want no wrenches sticking to my fingers, you need to buy some mechanics gloves at least.

Torque Junkie · December 11, 2001

you need to buy some mechanics gloves at least.

It's on my x-mas list....... 2 more weeks and I might have some.

crosses fingers

76BBSub · December 11, 2001

Brakes can be a bit intimidating the first couple of times...I still get a little nervous about drums, not because I've had trouble with them in a few years, but they are the brakes...VERY important, and there are a lot of parts in there. I would encourage you to learn about them next time they need work, but definitely don't blame ya for taking it into the shop. You have to pick your battles, right?

Anyway, I had to do my u-joints first thing when I bought the Sub. Decided to let the drivetrain shop remove and reinstall it, it was cold and rainy and they did it in half a day, including new u-joints (Spicer brand), a new carrier bearing, and balancing.

Now, for the tie rod, if it isn't too cold out you should definitely try this one. All you need is a wrench, a hammer, and a pickle fork. You can get the pickle fork at any auto parts store, and the best part is that most big parts houses will loan you the tool for free. Anyway, just take off the nut and whack the fork between the tie rod and the spindle or relay rod. Once off the truck, measure the length between the studs on the each rod, then remove them. Screw in the new ones as close to same as the old ones as you can. Then reinstall. You should also get an alignment as soon as you finish, or your tires will wear quickly and your gas mileage will suck...more than it already does. Save yourself a fair amount of bucks if you do it yourself.

Jeff