A/C compressor

patrick · June 27, 2001

The factory A/C compressor finally gave up the ghost yesterday. ('72 c/20 with a 402 v8) I had to pull over because of the god awful rattling. Right inside the pulley a disk had blown itself loose and was spinning out of balance (I am sure that the whole compressor needs to be replaced now (maybe just the clutch?)). I couldn't get the disk off so I disconnected the belt that drove the compressor. It doesn't appear to be connected to anything else, and the truck ran fine the rest of the way home... but.... am I hurting anything by having that belt off?

any help would be appreciated

76BBSub · June 27, 2001

Not hurting anything running without the belt, it's just like turning the compressor off.

That being said, you should double check your belt routing and make sure it wasn't driving any other accessories, but back in the '70s it was pretty much one belt per accessory.

Sounds like it was just the clutch that got fried, but you should compare prices between a whole new/reman compressor WITH clutch vs. just buying the clutch. I seem to recall a friend who paid just a few dollars more for the whole shootin' match than just the clutch. If the clutch is a lot less than the whole compressor assembly then I'd try the clutch first. I don't know a way to tell if just the clutch is bad. Also find out if the clutch comes with the new/reman compressor. If not, then buy the clutch, try it out, if it doesn't fix it then buy the compressor and put the new clutch on the new compressor.

Sorry to hear it went south on ya, though.

Jeff

patrick · June 27, 2001

nah, it is only running the air condidioning, just wanted to make sure that I wasnt hurting anything else.. engine actually is running smoother! (hardly ever use the ac anyway)

thanks jeff, appreciate it

Ken73 · June 27, 2001

Patrick, believe it or not, I actually had this same thing happen on my Jimmy. Strangely enough, I managed to use JB-Weld (don't say it, Jeff!) and GLUE my compressor clutch back together. The rubber absorber section had just seperated, is all. It sounds like your situation may be similar, and you might be able to do the same trick. It worked for another FIVE years after that before it finally crapped out when you couldn't get R12 without a license anymore. Eventually I replaced all the components, and went to R134a (and it runs fine now.) I'm assuming you've got the standard A6 compressor? (The long one?)

If anything, I know Autozone and maybe even O'Reilly will RENT the tools to replace the clutch, and they probably sell the clutch itself, although I have no idea how much it would cost. It would probably be a lot cheaper to replace the clutch by itself than try to replace the compressor (and lose all your freon.) If you DO decide to replace the compressor, have the rest of the system flushed, and buy a new orifice valve, preferably the variable-orifice type. They're only a few more dollars and work better than the stock ones.

Ken

patrick · June 27, 2001

the amount of metal shavings that were thrown around the engine compartment, I don't think it would be worth even trying to salvage the clutch. The thing was starting to go when I got the truck last year, so I really did not think it was going to last long.. if the clutch isn't very expensive I think I will probably try to replace it, otherwise, I will let it go. Vent windows and flow-through work just fine for me! :)Thanks for your help (both Ken and Jeff)...