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Showing results for tags 'v8'.
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I’m having this issue with my truck. So both fans turn on automatically when I start the truck, also I don’t have no A/C. I replaced my thermostat and temp sensor. That didn’t seem to fix it. I should also include that I did a DOD Delete with a stock non dod cam, it’s tuned and engine works fine. It’s driveable but it’s annoying have no A/C and both fans when I start the truck. Please help! -
Need to find this part
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Hi all, 15 Yukon SLT (94000 miles) here So I had a misfire code P300 and engine light blinking late December 18. Done a tune up (replaced all sparks and wires) and everything was fine until a few days ago. Didn't feel any lose of power, vibrations and etc. Got another misfire code, this time P0305 (cylinder #5) a few weeks back. Mechanic looked into it and couldn't reproduce. Had an engine carbon clean up. Again no lose of power, vibration poor fuel economy and so on. Couple of days ago got another misfire P0305. Called the mechanics and he suggested a compression test. Not sure if needed as no other signs are apparent. He also start speaking (worst case) about taking the cylinder out to be inspected and replacing AFM lifters. I've looked into mode 6 on my OBD scanner as saw that cylinders 1,3,5,7 all have misfires, though below the threshold so no codes or lights. Cylinder #5 had count of 78 misfires and the rest (1,3,7) around the 1-5 (thats after a 2hr drive) What I found weird is that the AFM cylinders (2,4,6,8) had no misfires. Aren't those the ones with the lifters? I've replaced the coil of cylinder 1 with 5 and got the same results (higher counts of misfires on 5) so don't think that is the problem. Anyone encounter the same issue? How was it solve? Any suggestions for self diagnostics before its heading back to the a shop? Thanks
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I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this? -
"ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK" Has anyone ever came across this before? Let me start from the beginning. On 11/2932013, halfway on my drive from work to home, I noticed that my truck would "sputter" and the rpm would fluctuate when giving it some gas while going up a hill/incline (interstate). Once I was done with the hill/incline, everything would smooth out. Closer to home, once again, I would only notice the "sputter-like" reaction and rpm fluctuating slightly when giving it gas to climb a hill/incline. Made it home fine with no problems or warnings/lights. Upon embarking to work the next morning (11/30/2013), at approximately 5-6 miles from home, I went to give the truck some gas to get above 60 and all of a sudden all these warnings and dings starting going off. My engine warning light illuminated and my traction control light came on and I noticed some warnings scrolling through at the bottom saying: "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK". it blew my mind! Meanwhile, I noticed my truck slowing down no matter how much gas I gave it. I was coming to a road intersection just ahead and preceded to turn around and pull over to investigate. I couldn't understand what was going on so since I was close to home, I just "limped" it back home and not getting over 40-45 mph. Got home and shut engine off and called my job. I went back out later before my ride got there to pick me up, and started my truck. It started fine and I didn't notice any "sputtering" like before, however the engine light is still illuminated. I can't do anything until this Wednesday anyway. Is there someone that has come across this before? The day it happened I Google'd to my heart's content and found that I am not alone, however I did notice that there can be a number of things that could cause this. Would any of this be covered under a warranty? How would I know if I still have warranty on my truck? I need some expert advice on this. Here is my truck info to the best of my knowledge: 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Taupe Gray 5.3 L V8 Crew Cab Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, R. Ashley -
Which engine is better? I assume the 6.2 has more power and the 5.3 has better mpg, but how much of a difference is it?
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I have read hundreds of AFM collapsed lifter threads but have not been able to find someone with my same issue where it has been solved. Looking for your expertise in the cause, not looking for advise to turn AFM off as that is the plan but I want to properly fix the issue first. I have a 14 Silverado with a 5.3 with 50k miles and the issue I’m having is there is a pecking/knocking/rattle only when the truck is under light load while it is in V4 mode. Has anyone else experienced this where the noise occurs only while in V4 and while slightly accelerating? The are no check engine lights, no noises at idle, no noise while running on 8 cylinders, no smoke, no oil usage, and it doesn’t appear to have lost any power. The two possible problems I see are either: 1. One of the AFM lifters have failed in a way where it is not allowing the cylinder to deactivate which means the intake or exhaust valve will function like normal instead of closing during V4 mode. If this is the case is there any way to confirm this without a diagnostic scanner to put the truck in V4 at idle or to deactivate each cylinder? Is there any risk of further failure by not fixing this if I turn off AFM as it seems the “tabs” are just not disengaging within the lifter? 2. There is an issue somewhere within the VLOM portion with an actuator, oil port, something electronic that is preventing enough oil pressure to deactivate the lifter. If AFM is deactivated is there any risk with whatever is not working properly within this system? Basically, I am fine with turning AFM off as where I drive there is likely minimal impact but I don’t want to turn it off just to cover up a problem that will resurface in the near future as I don’t intend on getting rid of the truck any time soon.
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I recently became acknowledged about the myth of the 3,000 mile oil change on newer vehicles with advanced oil. I own a 2006 silverado 2500 v8 6L WT and I change my oil every 5k miles with Mobil synthetic 5w-30. I cannot seem to find the exact information within my car manual or my Haynes/Chilton manual for the recommended interval between oil changes. Is there anywhere I can look up how often I can change my oil with the specific engine of within my truck? I have heard some oils can go 10k+ miles on some vehicles. I'd love to do less oil changes, but don't want to endanger my engine since oil changes are so quick though I'd love to save money too! Where can I find this exact information or do you have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance! -
I’m planning on upgrading my gear ratio from 3.42 to 4.10 on my 2019 custom trail boss. I want to put a 4-6 lift on my truck from BDS with fox shock coilovers With 35 inch tires maybe 37’s but before that I want to regear my truck so that I don’t lose any power. Do y’all think 4.10 gears are good enough for should I go for like 4.55’s? If anyone has re geared there 2019’s and up please let me know the prices and gear shifting experiences. -
Good Day folks, I am attempting to fix my 1994 Chevy Truck 2 Wheel Drive - 350 motor - 4l60E Transmission . I want to switch out the TPI System for a carburetor and Regular Intake setup , What Fuel Issues will I run in to as well as Electrical as far as Distributor? Another Question regarding my truck; my truck had a 4.3 V6 Vortec Motor , I put a 1990 5.7 350 V8 Motor in my truck , If i put new Intake and Carburetor in my truck -plus change Fuel Setup , CAN I still Run Same ECM computer from my Vortec V6 Motor in my Truck Answers are appreciated Thanks The Outside World The Soss -
Hello I have been working on my GNC for far too long now. It all started with the radiator and then the transmission finally leading up to the battery and or the park neutral safety switch. My current problem is I'm getting the no crank no start which has me assuming it's a parking neutral safety switch, I've been trying to line it up perfectly and get it on there onto the transmission without any success. I'm also experiencing very rapid draining of batteries. My last one was dead according to the AutoZone people, and when I use my friends to try and test and see if I can get some crank within a few twists turns it's gone from 12:00 to 10:00 volts. I guess you better explanation of that would be, I would put the battery in to test the current park neutral switch setup and configuration meaning just the slight tick of the thing that turns, and if I still experience no crank I would then you know shift back into park disconnect the battery and then try and you know mess with it again and then go back to the battery put it back on and you know retry that process but in doing cell is draining the batteries I don't know if it's normal or if there's something I messed up somewhere with the batteries cuz I did have to move the negative from where it was originally at to higher up so I had enough wire to compensate for the taller battery and that I was borrowing so yeah that's in a nutshell. If I could get any kind of feedback and I would be so grateful. I've been without my baby from like 2 months now and it's killing me. -
I figured it was time to introduce myself and my new daily driver. I've been into personalizing/customizing vehicles since before I could drive. My last truck was a 03 rcsb and was a great truck. I wish I could have found the new body in rcsb, but I came across my new truck at a price that couldn't be beat. I now have a 2019 Silverado LT LD. double cab. It came equipped with 5.3L V8, 3.42 gears, the z85 suspension and a tow package. It is about the same truck I had, just 16 years newer, with a V8. I've slowly been doing the smaller easier mods in 6 quick months I've owned it. I've got a running list of what I have done, and another list of things planned. I'll try to update the mods here as I go with Part numbers and prices of each (if I can remember). Feel free to PM me if you have questions, or need pics on anything. I've been a member of forums for years, and have always been willing to pass on the information I learn myself, or have learned from others. 1. First mod was tints. I had it for 2 days before I went to the local tint shop and got it done. I used a shop that does all of the cars for the dealership I work at, and had them do the lifetime ceramic tints. I didn't go as dark as my other truck, but I have been considering going back and having them done darker. I'd have to find the receipt to see how dark they are, I want to say 15 all the way around. I got a deal for being with the dealership, but the off-the-street package for the tints is $280? again I'd have to find the receipt. 2. My next two mods I bought for the truck were the rear bed rail pocket covers, and the frame hole inserts. Pocket Covers here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQVOJV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Frame Tube Covers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6XGFXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Pics available) 3. Next mod was an OEM Chrome Bowtie Exhaust tip, part number 22799814. I found this on a Craigslist post for $45. My price thru the dealership was something like $90, if I remember correctly. 4. From there I added the LED Bed lights that plug in to the bus bar under the rear bumper. OEM part number 23295943, I was able to find this kit thru my dealership contacts for $112. 5. From there I had to do something about the front end. It looked like every single other base truck, with no front recovery hooks. I picked the OEM Black recovery hooks, part number 84072463, from my contact at the local dealership for just under $40. Originally I was going to cut the front bumper valence for them to poke thru, but after seeing a few of them done, chose to go OEM. This was pricey, but the finished OEM look. It's a brand new truck, and I don't want it to look cheap, or hacked up already. Bumper filler part number is 84029800, and was $380, again this price is from my contact at a local dealership. Some of this cost was off set by selling my original one for $100 on Offerup. It was only up for about a week, and seemed to get plenty of interest. 6a. Pulled the front and rear badges off, and had one of my guys in the body shop color match them for me, for $100. 6b. After pulling the tailgate bowtie off, I decided I wanted it clean. So I took off the lettering on both front doors and tailgate too. It's a simple mod, but most people think of mods as having to ADD, rather than subtract from the vehicle. 7. After using the bed lights, it started bothering me that the center high bed light and the reverse lights weren't LEDs to match the bed lights. So I found some 921 LEDs, each one putting out 3000 lumens from Amazon, and swapped them out. They look amazing and totally light up anything behind the truck, day or night! Lights can be found here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F77TF21/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 While I was at it I ordered some 194 leds for the tag lights. Those can be ordered here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRE38EA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 8. I had friend of a coworker buy the wrong lift kit for his Colorado, so I was able to pick up a brand new MotoFab 3"/2" leveling kit for $120. This will probably be installed either this weekend or next weekend. My stock heights are currently as follows Driver Ft: 35 3/8, Pass frt: 35 1/2 Driver Rr: 39 1/4, Pass Rr: 38 1/2 (Pics will be available) 9. This is the the mod I haven't completed, but I hope to soon. After using the bed lights, and having the reverse lights led, I decided to get some lights for the bumper steps. I chose to do a marine like light, in hopes they might be more weatherproof. These will be tapped to the plug under the rear bumper that the bed lights are plugged in with. The lights can ordered here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYHD6RC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I hope to have good write up steps when I've got this completed. 10. I've also begun the mod for foot well lights. Since I've got the extra 194 bulbs, I decided to pick up some 194 sockets with the 90* to them. Two of these are going to be wired up under the dash, and tapped into the gray connector that is under the dash, on the driver's side. There's plenty of notes on which wire to tap, but I've taken a bunch of photos as to where I ran the wires and grounded them to the dash board frame. The other two will be run and mounted either to the sides of the middle seat or underneath the driver and pass seat itself. The GM socket # is 12001470. The Dorman part number 85868 is what I was able to find for $3 each. The wiring harnesses I've created myself (I've ran miles of wires in a few of my professional position, so I don't find this intimidating) 11. I originally wanted to find a set of the black Trailboss 18" rims, with some all terrains on it for after I had my level kit installed. I happened to stumble across a set of k2xx 18" "All Star" Package Rims in great shape for $300 on offer up. OEM part number is 20937769. These things were super clean! I really liked the way they looked when I had a set on my 03 rcsb. For the price I couldn't pass them up. I didn't know till I pulled the old tires off that the original owner had left the TPMS sensors on the rims. For the $300, I wasn't expecting them to be part of the deal. (Pics available) I was also able to get a set of 4 brand new 255/70/18 Bridgestone Dueler AT from another co-worker for $200. This tire and rim combo will be replacing the 255/70/17 tires and flat faced 17" rims as soon as the 3/2 level kit is installed.
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2015 4.3 to 6.2 swap (l86)/8l90e issues
B M posted a topic in 2014-2019 Engine, Driveline, & Exhaust
Hi, first time posting on here, I hope I am not bringing up an issue that has been solved or brought up elsewhere. Here we go, I have a 2015 single cab swb 4x4 that came with a 4.3/6l80e, i have swapped this to a 2017 l86/ 8l90e. Truck was fully operational prior to swap no issues, upon completing the mechanical portion of the swap and starting the electrical checkout I have run into some issues. Truck will power up bcm/ gauge cluster with no issue/ lights but I have no ecm activation as fars fuel system coming on or engine rolling over. I am getting the following DTCs: 2535, U0100, 1029( low voltage from fuel system). I have reached out to 8+ different shops for assitance and offered to pay for their time but have not recieved a solution or either not enough experience with newer truck/ motor systems, if there is anyone that has any thoughts/ recommendations/ experience/ solutions on this would be great or a capable shop around north Texas, I am all ears, really excited to figure out what is going and get this on the road. Also everything is 100% factory parts other than texas speed cam and delete kit. -
Took my 2017 Chevy Silverado z71 to the dealer today . Engine was ticking on top end sounded like a lifter tick and slight deeper knock in bottom end . oil presure was all over the place would go from 65 psi to 25 psi at same rpm. I have 44,000 miles. Has anyone else had this issue? With the strike in play who know how long I will be without my truck.
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Need some opinions on what the heck is going on with my 2007 silverado classic. It has a 4.8 litre vortec with an afe cold air intake, edge cts2 programmer, gibson shorty headers, and a 3 inch catback exhuast. I have the code p0430 coming up but cant figure out what it is. Ive done a back pressure test on the cats, and did knock sensors and all O2 sensors a year ago. It doesnt feel like it has a misfire and im very mechanically inclined and everything in this truck is looked after. When i bought it there was a 4wd code and it wouldnt engage so i swapped out the button cluster in the cab and now it works fine. Other than that the truck has been perfect but id like to figure out what the heck is setting off the code. I have no exhuast leaks and the cats checked out perfect, anyone know what else it could be? Im looking for anything at this point, i hate check engine lights and have cleared it with the programmer but it comes back very shortly after being cleared. Thanks
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Newb here. My 07 Yukon has been in the shop over a week now. (Local mechanic) Have had the vehicle about a year, changed the oil regularly, replaced oil sensor and sending unit due to the infamous low oil pressure warnings. Thing has driven great until randomly one day she started idle hard and misfired when going into first. I changed all sparks, plugs. No change. Shop is saying my oil pump is completely shot..? I've had no noise no other signs of it starting to fail. My sensor would routinely go off a month prior to oil change being due. Do these things really just crap out? Could it be related to my misfire? They are checkin the head on that, otherwise she drove normal and smooth once I go over 15mph. If she survives and my wallet doesn't get drained, I will be disabling the AFM.
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So I have recently purchased a Range AFM disabler for my 2017 Silverado 1500 E-assist because of the constant stopping and starting at stop lights, exhaust drone from V4, weird shifting from V4 to V8 and my transmission liking to jerk/shifting hard every so often. After installing the Range device, it has solved my transmission issues, disabled stopping and starting at stop lights, and has been keeping it in V8 mode 24/7! The only thing I have noticed is that when I am decelerating from a speed of around 50 MPH or more, the engine will have a fast repetitive backfiring popping sound until i either get back on the gas pedal or have reached a speed of 35 MPH. It seems to happen when i am decelerating slowly and not fast, starts to backfire when it starts to downshift at around 900-1100 RPMs I have a flowmaster Super40 cat-back dual 2.5 inch exhaust with the third "cat" still on. It used to not backfire when the AFM was active BUT when decelerating, it would switch back into V4 mode. is there a way to fix this? Is there too much freeflowing exhaust? Can this backfiring through the exhaust cause any damage if left unfixed? Thanks, -Hunter -
Hello, everyone! I Thought it would be a good idea to record the sound of my truck when towing a Polaris Ranger and a quadbkike when going uphill and make a white noise video The Engine running at almost full throttle at 2500 rpm makes for a nice humming noise and i would like to share it with you Enjoy
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So I had a check engine light on for awhile didnt think much of it till it thru me into limp mode before work one morning. I did some digging around and ended up replacing my throttle body. Light went away everything was great then a week later it came back on and not long after that it thru me into limp mode. It hasnt done it since. The truck is throwing codes for the TPS, Evap, and a random misfire. Before i go spending money I dont have and throwing random parts at it does anybody have any clue? its been several days since it put me in limp mode but it hasnt come back yet.
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Howdy! New to the forum, not sure if I’m doing this right. Anyhow, I’d like to install true duals with an X pipe on my Silverado. It’s a 2002 1500 Extended cab with the 5.3L. Is there a bolt on exhaust system like the one I’m looking for, or would I need to have it custom built and fit at a shop? If I need to have it built, is there a good exhaust shop in Western Kentucky you could recommend? Thank you!
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I currently own a 2003 Silverado 1500 LS with the Z71 package. I have almsot 284k miles on it with the 5.3 vortec engine. I have almost had it a year and bought it with 273k. I know it has been taken care of because its very clean, with no sludge in the oil, as well as no metal shavings in the oil and transmission pan when I changed their gaskets/fluids. So far I have changed: - Rear diff gears - Knock sensors - Catalytic converters - Trans fluid and filter - Oil pan gasket - Intermediate steering shaft - A/C system - T-case fluid - Added a Spectre cold air intake - A few other minor things As of now I have a rear main seal leak, as well as a clunk. I have researched the clunk and have come to the conclusion that it is the famous GM slip yoke clunk, so I am not too worried. It it was the trans, I would have likely seen metal shavings in my trans fluid. I am likely going to be fixing my rear main seal leak in a few months. I do all this work myself so it's not too expensive to fix and I kind of enjoy working on it. Basically, I really like my truck and I would like to keep it, but I am wondering how long I should expect from the engine? I'm pretty positive the trans has been changed since it has such high mileage. Let me know what you all think.
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I currently own a 2003 Silverado 1500 LS with the Z71 package. I have almsot 284k miles on it with the 5.3 vortec engine. I have almost had it a year and bought it with 273k. I know it has been taken care of because its very clean, with no sludge in the oil, as well as no metal shavings in the oil and transmission pan when I changed their gaskets/fluids. So far I have changed: - Rear diff gears - All shocks - Knock sensors - Catalytic converters - Trans fluid and filter - Oil pan gasket - Intermediate steering shaft - A/C system - T-case fluid - Added a Spectre cold air intake - A few other minor things As of now I have a rear main seal leak, as well as a clunk. I have researched the clunk and have come to the conclusion that it is the famous GM slip yoke clunk, so I am not too worried. It it was the trans, I would have likely seen metal shavings in my trans fluid. I am likely going to be fixing my rear main seal leak in a few months. I do all this work myself so it's not too expensive to fix and I kind of enjoy working on it. Basically, I really like my truck and I would like to keep it, but I am wondering how long I should expect from the engine? I'm pretty positive the trans has been changed since it has such high mileage. Let me know what you all think.
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trying to put together a swap for a 75 custom deluxe and was wanting the 6l80 transmission for the efficiency. would it work with a 4th gen 2005 5.3 out of a silverado? -
2003 Silverado 2500HD gasser. Just got the truck about 6 months ago so I'm not to sure what kind of history, or other work my truck has had done to it previously. Right when I got the truck I started losing my fan settings. I only had 4 and 5. Heat was working better then than it is now. Anyways, I replaced the blower motor resistor and that fixed my fan problem. The heat has always been intermittent on the driver side though. And recently it hardly ever works. It's winter now, and here in Illinois its pretty cold. So I would like to get this fixed ASAP. If i mess with the temp. controls it will sometimes switch to heat for me. I can hear the blend door opening and closing. What is my problem. Any questions or clarifications I'd be more than happy to answer! Thanks again. -
Hi hello, recently my v8 2001 1500 suburban rear end got destroyed, i have a v6 2004 Silverado 1500 with no motor, i was wondering if i can just swap the rear ends on them, anybody know if it will it work? What could be the problems if i do it and its not compatible???
