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Showing results for tags 'towing'.
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2016 Chevy Silverado 4.3L V6 3.23 Reading through the manual: Max Trailer Weight 5,600 lbs, any other weights/limitations I should focus on ? Looking into installing Class 3 Trailer hitch, is a class 3 pretty standard, sufficient ? Im interested in 17-21' fiberglass center console in the future, any issues towing this type of boat (not knowing weight of boat / trailer etc )
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2011 Silverado, LT 128K. will be needing brakes by spring. what's a good brand with minimal brake dust? I am currently looking at power stop brand. this is my daily driver, and we use it to tow our 30' Alpha Wolf travel trailer. this is what I am looking at: Amazon.com: Rear Brake Drum Shoe & Hardware Kit Compatible with Chevy Silverado 1500 Truck : Automotive should i look for something more robust? or a different brand? thanks
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2019 Silverado 1500 z71 with 8K miles, 3.23 rear, 8 speed. Today I have towed about 8000lbs of cattle and trailer. I prior towed an old farmall tractor back. Both times when towing over 6000lbs, I had the transmission in L6, tow haul mode. Sometimes when taking off from a stop, it almost felt like the truck started in 2nd, not dropping down the first. Would it do that? Or is the torque converter just being floated as RPM's rise, and possibly I am not feeling the shift from 1 to 2. This transmission is crazy smooth compared to my 6 speed. Truck drives great otherwise. Ran it to town empty later, no issues. Even ran it thru the Low mode gears, and it starts in first normally. Thought maybe this was towhaul mode trying to avoid unnecessary shifting if still rolling. Transmission running cool, never over 180 even with that load at 60-70 mph. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
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Just bought a Travel Trailer and brought it home with my 2015 Colorado. I need Tow Mirrors and even the camping dealer suggested I get the GM parts and not the clip on. Have not found one specific to the Colorado but will the Silverado extension mirrors work?
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What suggestions or advice is available for buying a GMC | Chevy truck? What should I watch out for -- the GOOD and BAD? I want to come back to the GMC | Chevy family. For over 20 years, we owned a 98 GMC Suburban, putting over 230k miles on it myself, and I LOVED that truck. Other than typical wear and tear -- I never had any problems or issues with my Suburban. I am looking at 2016-2022 -- GMC | Chevy 1500 | 2500 series, all trims (4x4), except the base models. My budget is around $35k plus'ish; yes, I understand my budget limits what I can get. I am a USAF retired veteran living off a fixed income. Yes, we tow hitch pull RVs and various trailers, but not as often as before. What are the GOOD, BAD, and UGLY these days on the GMC | Chevy trucks? Is the additional price for either diesel and/or 2500 worth it? SHORT STORY: so, a few years ago, I bought a 2015 Ram 1500 4x4 EcoDiesel 6cyl w/turbo Lonestar -- well, I have been disappointed with Chrysler | Fiat (FCA). They lied about the EcoDiesel, and after forced recall ECM updates, they sucked all performance and mpg from the truck. Buying a newish GMC | Chevy, I do not want to fall into what happened with my 2015 Ram. When I had my suburban, I never had so many recalls, been lied to, and never had poor performance. Thanks for any suggestions that you will provide -- Gary (ExFalconFxr) -
06 Silverado 2500hd 6.0 My Silverado is getting really hot while towing up hill, to the point that the "Engine Coolant Hot" light is coming on. (Which I stop and let it cool down). This has gradually gotten worse. Truck does not get hot while towing on flat terrain. Any ideas?
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2020 2500 Duramax. Is anyone else having problems with their trailer lights? I’m having problems with the lights on all but one of my three trailers. Left turn signal and brake is not working. Took it to the dealer and they gave me some bs about how the truck can’t run led lights or more than 10 amps and blew me off. So essentially my brand new truck I bought for towing can’t tow a trailer with more than two tail lights. One of the two it isn’t working on is led and one is not and it runs the led lights just fine, just not the left turn or brake on both.
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Hello, I am new to towing with my 2020 Silverado. She is outfitted with the 3.0 Duramax. We just purchased a 2018 Travel Trailer (5700 lbs). I have towed with my past trucks but none of them had the settings (trailer mode, + - on the gear selector) or the ability to have a camera system that essentially gives you a view behind the trailer you are towing. Any chance anyone can share some pointers/wisdom on the best way to tow, what to do, look out for and even using the camera system (which I have yet to purchase)? Any help/input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dennis -
Hey folks, We are looking forward to do a 5th Wheel roadtrip with two small kids this sping-fall cross country and may be even into canada. Currently, we are aiming to get a 5th wheel in the 12.000 GVWR range (pin weight ca 2700 lbs). Now we are shopping for a tow vehicle. Since we are out of country we are just looking for a limited time ownership of 7-8 months, therefore budget is not so much an issue, as long as the prices remain stable. But was hoping to find something in the 40-50k area. However, we never owned a truck and I was hoping to find some guidance on what to look out when buying used and get any tipps for "best" models since Im absolutely confused about the different makes per year, trim levels, tow pachages etc... What does "best" mean? An equal mix of reliability, driving/towing comfort and MPG. Requirements based on aboves 5th: 1 ton truck that provides >14'000 GVWR and payload > 4000 lbs; (SRW, 4x4) long bed/8" (piece of mind and dont have to go for a slider hitch, extra storage) diesel "crew" cab?! the bigger option (to comfortably seat 2 kids, potentially also SO during feeding / play times ) Questions: Is there any specific year as of which there are crucial differences in the truck? Any mile thresholds we should have in mind? Is it OK to buy above 100k miles? Anything we should specifically look for / check at the particular truck? What trim levels are required/ usually meeting the above tow requirements? Or anything else I can differentiate potential offers? Unfortunately, there is sufficiecnt filter at autotrader, so Im currently screening 1 by 1. Any other sources besides autotrader we should check out? Since we are out of country, we have some flexibility locationwise (potentially using third party inspection / delivery?!). As of March we would probably focus around Raleigh NC, where we start our journey and have family. Thanks for any help, really appreciated!
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I have an interesting overheating problem with my 1990 C3500 Silverado 7.4L. I recently bought the truck from an uncle who, I'm guessing, screwed me on the deal... We use the truck to tow our travel trailer (22ft. roughly 5000lb). Prior to our first voyage out, we drove the truck around town to make sure everything worked well. After a few trips to our main hike spot I noticed the truck would run warm, 220-240, for a short time and then spike down to 210. I assumed it was the thermostat sticking. So I replaced the thermostat with a 180 degree unit. I topped off the coolant in the reservoir and it seemed to have fixed the problem. We went on our first trip, now pulling the trailer, and at our halfway point, I got off the freeway to fill up the truck. about 20 seconds after we dropped our speed below 30 mph the truck spiked, redlining above 260. After starting it up, it quickly started to overheat again until we hit the freeway speeds and all was good. This behavior continued up until we hit our destination. Thankfully, my mechanic brother-in-law was camping with us. He thought it was the fan clutch but after looking at the radiator, I was about 2.5 gallons low on coolant. Since we were out camping, I used the rest of the gallon I had and filled the rest up with water. Brother-in-law said the water pump looked like it was running good and it might have just been under-filled when my uncle replaced the radiator. Ran ok until we slowed down off the freeway. It looked like the coolant would get hot and boiling out of the reservoir. I just kept topping off the radiator and driving home (picked up coolant 50/50 on the way back) Looked at it at home and noticed a leak above the drain valve. Tightened the valve about 1/4 turn, filled up the radiator and again the truck ran fine until our next trip. Same problems, had someone bring out a new radiator cap since it looked like the coolant was not being pulled back into the radiator. Coming back we had the same problem. I since replaced the hose from the radiator to the reservoir and "burped" the system by running the truck and squeezing the upper radiator hose until the coolant level would no longer drop in the radiator. The oil looks really clean (not milky or showing signs of water/bubbles). Coolant looks clean and I have topped of the radiator last with concentrate coolant to account for the water I added before. So I don't think it's the head gasket. I rotated the fan with the truck off and it stopped immediately after letting go. There wasn't any play when I tried moving the fan around so I don't think it's the fan/fan clutch. I hear an electric fan on when it's overheating/hot and the fan clutch kick in when its really hot. Rather than purchasing a bunch of new parts I thought I would get on here and ask a couple questions and see if anyone might have some things to try out. Would having enough air in the cooling system keep the coolant from being sucked back into the radiator? Could the fan clutch not be engaging at a low enough temperature? If the radiator is a 2 core, would that cause the coolant to boil enough to cause an air gap that would then keep coolant from being pulled back into the radiator? This truck was originally purchased new by my grandpa in 1991. He was a mechanic and took amazing care of the thing (all receipts). My Uncle purchased it from him a couple years back and I believe it was just sitting on his property for most of the time. -
I am currently in the market for a camper and I am wondering how much weight I can tow. I have 2019 Silverado 1500 RST 5.3 V8 crew cab short bed. From what I can find online I should be “okay”, but really wanted some feedback from those of you that have a similar setup. I am aware the 2500 is the ideal setup, but that will be down the line a bit for me. Truck Trailering Info: GVWR 7100lbs GCWR 15000lbs GAWR RR 3800lbs Max Payload 1819lbs Max Tongue Weight 960lbs Curb Weight 5281lbs The camper I am looking at has a dry weight of 6300lbs and GVWR of 9,480lbs (no intent to load our camper down or travel with full tanks). Hitch weight of the camper is 680lbs. 32’ 11” tongue to bumper. Really only looking at going camping within 100 miles on the weekends. We typically travel light with basic necessities for hook up campgrounds (clothes, food, chairs). any help would be great!
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I'm currently looking at these mirrors for an 07 GMC 2500HD Classic here: http://monsterautoparts.com/GMC/SIERRA/gmc_sierra_towing_mirrors_telescopic.htm Item1339-0010B because its the pair. They're exactly what I want: Power mirror, heated and turn signal BUT its manual telescoping. Is there any place I can get all that with power telescoping? I'm kind of at a loss of where to look since the ones I had bookmarked seem to have gone missing. I just have standard mirrors now so the next question I'm asking is, what else does it seem I would need to install these? Am I just not looking hard enough to find other options? I went to a local GM dealer and they're guy said GM had discontinued the OEM ones.
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Hello everyone. My first time here. I have a 2021 Sierra AT4 with the 6.2L. I have started to notice a noise when towing our boat that weighs about 6,000lbs. Several times during the trip to and from the lake I hear a rumbling sound that last like 2-4 sec. almost sounds like it can be a jake brake or hitting rumble strips on road. I hit no strips. I can’t recall if it happens on downshift or what. But it does concern me. I drove home from work today with our towing and put it in tow haul mode. It made the noise 3 times in 45 min drive. Any ideas what I’m dealing with? Would it be a bad clutch issue or is this normal? I do have the performance GM installed exhaust and performance GM installed air intake. I called dealer today and they said bring it by and they MIGHT have time to get to it next week. I planned to hit the lake this weekend for Labor Day. Thanks. -
Im looking at getting a 3,380 LBS travel trailer, its not a goose neck, with a GVWR of 4,300 in the brochure. Ive looked at the sticker in my Door jam but cant seem to figure what numbers are important to consider. im a complete noob to towing so go easy on me lol the sticker on my truck says GVWR 7100 lbs, GCWR 15000, RGAWR 3800, Curb Weight 5312, Max Payload 1788, Conventional TWR 9400Lbs, Max Tongue weight 940lbs thanks in advance. -
Hello! I'm a new member looking for some opinions on towing. I have an 88 Chevrolet r20 suburban (3/4 ton). It's a 454/th400 combo. Not sure on the rear gear as the speedo reads about 10 mph off at 60 so some previous owner has tampered with the rear gear I'm sure considering it use to haul a travel trailer back in the day for a gentleman in the air force. Assuming I replace the 33 year old leaf springs, brakes are in good working order, etc etc do you think it would tow a 8k travel trailer safely at say 60-65 mph with trailer brakes. I plan to install a Firestone airbag leveling system on the rear as well. The factory hitch says it's rated for 10000 GVWR with a weight distribution hitch. I don't see a GCWR anywhere. Trailer specs are 36ft, Dry weight of 7756lbs, with a hitch weight of 942lbs.
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I own a 2014 Chevy Silverado Double Cab 4x4 Z71 and wanted to share my experience as I approach 30K. When I first bought this truck it was great. I like the features, the ride, very smooth driving characteristics and overall design. Then the recalls started and so far I have had four performed that I know of. I also started noticing some issues that made me feel as if the 10K off MSRP I received was not enough of a discount. Below is recap and assessment of some issues I have seen in the last year and a half of ownership. 1. Paint- too thin and the appearance is blotchy, I am currently having some issues with adhesion as I watch the paint peel off the lower driver and passenger door, this will be covered under the warranty according to the body shop. 2. Recalls- mostly minor but I am sure as time goes on these recalls will increase in severity and inconvenience. GM should extend the bumper to bumper warranty, by a certain amount of time/milage, per recall. 3. Vibrations- there are several issues in this area. Tires are number one in my experience, then the v4 AFM mode and lastly the drivetrain are all sources for these vibrations. But if you look at the numbers on this site and do the math this seems to be an issue that only effects .5%-1% of trucks out there. Even with these statistics in some cases the vibrations have been eleminated. 4. Interior- nice to look at and touch but quality is a C+. Constant snap, crackle, pop, sounds heard mostly caused by thermo expansion and contraction. Then there are the rattles that are caused from cheap clips and loose components. One solution is to take everything apart and use dampening materials (carpet padding/expanding foam/electrical tape) to fill in void spaces and eleminate rattles. 5. Electrical- there are inconsistencies in the way the electronics perform. The radio sometimes emits a static/buzz sound through the speakers when I open the driver door. The bluetooth is temperamental, and the security locking feature sometimes has a delay. 6. Powertrain- GM has some work to do here. From the slip yolk clunk to the G80 rearend backlash knock, this area of the truck needs to be refined and shored up. There was also a leafspring knock that I had to deal with for awhile that I resolved by properly torquing the u-bolts. Even with all this I give this truck a "B-" grade. The 5.3 ecotec MGP along with HP/Torque numbers, the 100k powertrain warranty/36k three year bumper to bumper, and overall performance including towing/hauling make up for some of these issues. I would recommend this vehicle to others but if you are looking take your time and test drive this for a weekend and look for these issues. There are some that are better than others and this is the number one thing when looking at MSRP/resale value. -
towing How many pins for trailer lights?
ForwardJulio posted a topic in 2019-2025 Silverado & Sierra
I just bought a boat I need to know how many pins do I buy the plug for. The trailer has 3 female and 1 male. But the round one that plugs into my 2020 1500 high country does anyone know which one it takes ? -
Does anyone know of a company that makes brackets to fit a 2014-2018 Silverado 1500 to convert tow hooks to shackles (D rings). I see multiple sites that make them for 07-13 and 2019+ but can’t seem to find any for a 14-18. I don’t know why no site is listing them for these trucks and wonder if the brackets from the 2019+ or 07-13 would work on a 2017? Does anyone have any Insight or know of a company that does make them? Thanks
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Hey guys its been a while since I have been on the forum but I need some help. As the tittle states I need some help upgrading my truck for towing. I am NOT looking to increase its tow rating to get a bigger trailer, I am looking on mods to make it easier on my truck. I am getting a travel trailer to live in full time due to moving all the time for work, it is more economical for me to pay for an RV spot and the trailer over leasing apartments/houses for short term and then having to cancel contracts and move all my stuff. The trailer I am looking at is a solid 7500lbs GVWR at 32'ft bumper pull. I have a 2016 GMC Sierra crew cab short box 5.3L with 3.42gears and the "standard" tow package without the brake controller. Big note that I do have a 4" BDS lift with blocks in the rear and 35x12.5x20 toyo R/Ts I am already looking at fitting tow mirrors and an after market brake controller, but aside from re gearing the truck what are some good options? Things that come to mind are like an auxiliary transmission cooler to help since I do have 35s, helper bags in the rear to cope with the droop.....what else could be added to just make the truck tow "easier"...............and no superchargers..wifey would NOT be happy thanks guys
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Towed uphill new truck not sure if truck response is normal
Tedmonster posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
Hi I recently bought a gas 2013 Sierra 2500hd. Low miles has towing package. Just today I bought a 4500lb dump trailer and was taking it home. I turned off tow/haul on the main flat roads but then came to a hill a few hundred yards long. I never put it back into tow mode and started climbing the hill and got to about 25mph but I wanted to see how the truck handled some more effort so I started accelerating but no response. Alittle more no response. At this point I have it a little more and the rpms suddenly jumped way up to about 5k at which point I let off. My question is this normal for the 6.0? Also should I be concerned at all about damage or wear to the transmission or engine from the sudden excessive jump in RPM uphill with trailer. Thanks -
I've already installed the load lifter 5000 air bags. My compressor came in today and will be installing it tomorrow morning. So far I can say I really like how the air bags mounted in the trail boss. I should have a short review tomorrow after the pump install as I'll be towing a 6000ib tractor for a quick job at my buddies house
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Hello all, have a question about towing. Recently purchased a 2011 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L V8 K5L HD Cooling Pkg in the Crew Cab. I see from the manual that max trailer weight is 9500lb and max tongue weight with weight distribution is 1100. We are getting a camper and the one we like is 31 ft with 5635lb dry weight and GVWR of 7350 (don't imagine ever getting near that). The only issue I possibly see is that the camper has a 800 lb tongue weight and I'm trying to figure out if that's going to be a deal breaker for payload capacity (as in putting family/dog/other stuff in truck bed and cab). Anyone have any insight? I feel like I should be fine towing this but just wanted to see if anyone on here has had experience or knows way more than I do on this and will most definitely be taking it slow and steady on trips watching engine temps. Thanks for any input. Gordon
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TL;DR: I drove 2,941 miles from South Florida to Southern California in my brand new Sierra 1500 AT4 Duramax and pulled my 4,400lbs pound boat. I experienced no drivetrain issues other than running out of gas which was my own fault. I kep the rpms mostly at 1500-2100, averaged 12.6 mpg, consumed 11-12 gallons of DEF and had no cooling issues under the load and in the 118F heat of the Californian desert for the prolonged time I was driving. The trailering app and trailer tire TPMS system paid for itself and was a great tool for safety! DEF gauge may not be accurate to read when towing, rather go by the mileage warnings that display on the dash. Adaptive cruise control disengaged briefly but was able to re engage after turning the truck off and back on again. I am very satisfied with the performance I experienced and overall truck and have had no issues thus far with the drivetrain (6,054 miles on the clock). Hey y'all, I wanted to put some info out there about the trip I just made this week from Boca Raton, FL to San Diego, CA in my brand new 1500 AT4 Diesel to include performance numbers, issues I encountered, good, bad, and otherwise. I was a little on edge seeing as I did a decent amount of research on the new duramax before I bought it in July and there are definitely some issues out there that are yet to be addressed, however I had to move for my new job so here goes. Google Maps put the trip at 2,611 miles (4,202km) from my parents driveway to my new place but my trip clock read 2,941 miles (4,733km) due to stopping in to see some family along the way. I had 3,110 miles (4,989km) on the clock before I left. Note that my backseat was full of boxes and my bed was mostly empty except a weatherproof toolbox because I don't have a tonneau cover yet and did not want my items exposed to the elements or sticky fingers for the five days I was on the road. I was also towing my boat which is a 20 foot center console on a tandem axle trailer with dual axle hydraulic surge brakes. The boat and trailer combo weighs 4,400lbs (1995 kg) as indicated by the weigh scale I stopped at in California and my WeighSafe drop hitch with tongue scale. I spent the overwhelming majority of my time at ~1500 rpm while on cruise control at 67-mph but would jump to ~2100 when gradually accelerating. I left on Sunday afternoon and drove 225 miles (362km) to Daytona Beach, FL mostly uneventful despite my DEF warning popping up saying I had a 1000 mile range. On Monday, I drove 514 miles (827km) uneventfully seeing some family and friends in the Panhandle of Florida. The only eventful part of this leg of the journey was the DEF message popping up in the morning saying I had a 300 mile range approximately 150 miles after the 1000 mile warning and a speed limited soon message shortly after the 300 mile message. I figured I would use more DEF while towing but I hadn't put much thought into exactly how much I would use while planning my trip. I will talk more about DEF later. Tuesday I drove 537 miles (864km) from Milton, FL to Houston, TX uneventfully. Somewhere around San Antonio, TX I got a message that adaptive cruise control has disengaged. I was able to switch to regular cruise control but still don't know why that happened. I was able to re engage adaptive cruise control later in the day after I turned off the truck at a fuel station. Any thoughts would be appreciated here if you have experienced something similar. Wednesday is where the fun started. About halfway between Houston and Fort Stockton (508 miles, 817km) I got a low trailer tire pressure message on my dash. My truck came with 4 trailer tpms sensors I had installed into 4 new tires on the trailer about a week before I left because I figured why not. the tires are filled to 50psi as per the sticker on the trailer and the message showed front right had 35 psi. I figured all was fine and it was an error message as I had already driven over 1000 miles with no issues but I decided to stop and check at the next exit as I noticed the pressure was steadily declining. I pulled off at a Love's and went to check and could hear the air coming out but couldn't see a nail or feel the air. Regardless (after re parking in the shade at 102F outside), I took the tire off and lo and behold found a 3 inch nail in the tread near the edge of the tire. Within 15 minutes I had it plugged, refilled, reinstalled, and ready to go. That right there ladies and gentlemen justified the $85 I paid to install the sensors. Had I not known of the diminishing air pressure I surely would've had a blowout at the most inconvenient location and had to put a spare on in the heat. So that sold me on the trailer tire TPMS system, cost to install already paid for itself by saving me from having to buy a replacement tire. On Thursday, the plan was to go from Fort Stockton, TX to Tucson, AZ (558 miles, 898km). I was about 30 miles away from my next planned fuel stop when my fuel level low light came on but I didn't think anything of it as I would be stopping about 20 miles before I ran out of fuel. When I pulled off at the only fuel station in the area (Akela, NM) which GasBuddy showed had diesel, I discovered much to my dismay that the station did not have a diesel pump. I knew I was probably screwed but didn't really have a choice but to shoot for Deming, NM which was 24 miles down the road. My fuel level read low so I reduced speed to improve economy and hoped for the best. Worst case scenario I run out of fuel much closer to an actual city which would reduce the time it took for a fuel delivery service to reach me. 5 miles out of Akela, a car flags me down and says something blew off my boat so I pulled over and saw that my bimini top had blown off. I figured my best course of action was to drop the boat on the side of the road and turn back and try to find it. because there was no way I'd make it to Deming after turning around with the boat. Anyways, I had to go back about 3 miles to get the bimini from the middle of the road before going back. I decided to leave the boat, get fuel, and come back for it. The boat has a tracker so I could ensure it didn't get stolen plus i had 2 tongue locks on it. I made it about 12 miles before I heard a sound from the engine that sounded like i hit debris on the road, a message popping up that said speed limited, pulled over and kept the engine idling while I inspected the truck for damage and could see none. I turned off the truck to restart it and try to get back on the highway but it wouldn't crank. I called roadside assistance from the myGMC app and a guy called me to confirm that I needed diesel and was out to me from Deming in about 20 minutes. Fueled up, started, but had a check engine light so I brought it to the Chevy dealer in Deming to get checked out and ensure there was nothing seriously wrong other than running out of fuel. It was just some computer errors from running out of fuel, had them cleared, and left for no charge. Filled my tank at the nearest fuel station, turned around got my boat, and continued on my way after a 3 hour delay and made it to Tucson just in time for happy hour! Friday, I finished my trip to San Diego about 407 miles (655km) uneventfully despite temperatures reaching 118F outside. I was monitoring engine temp which was regulating well between 190 and 205 and tranny temp which kept between 185 and 203 depending on the grade. No issues at all with cooling or performance. Honestly the torque was really impressive on the 6% grade that stretched about 35 miles up and down. By the time it was all said and done, i averaged 12.6mpg for the entire trip although I was getting about 14-16 after I had the bimini top stowed in the bed on the truck reducing the drag of the boat. I had to put in about 11-12 gallons of DEF throughout the trip to top off my tank at the end. I found that the DEF gauge was not displaying accurate levels because when it displayed red Low and no bars it took 4 gallons before overflowing despite the tank being about 5 gallons. The range of the DEF was not linear. It showed 300 mile range at 5 bars but dropped to red and low almost immediately after reaching that point. I learned to go by mile range not necessary gauge level and just fill up at the 300 mile range message. I am satisfied with the fuel economy i saw and was very satisfied with the performance and power available when needed thanks to the diesel. Overall very satisfied with the performance of this truck as I have had no issues with the drivetrain (knock on wood). Feel free to ask me specific questions and I will answer them as soon as I see them! -
Quick question, what’s everyone’s suggestions for a good set of towing mirrors for my 2019 GMC Sierra? It’s a SLT package and the only option I know of right now is only the clip on style. Thanks -
I tow a 21 ft bay boat with 1500 sierra and need to add rear suspension kit / support to keep the rear end of the truck from squatting down. what is available that will not void any GMC warranties, etc?
