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Showing results for tags 'torque converter'.
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My 2021 Silverado RST with a 5.3 and 8 Speed developed the dreaded "Silverado Shudder" at about 64,000 miles. I took it in, and it needs a new Torque Converter. The new Torque Converter replacement does not include any labor/parts for changing the filter and flushing the fluid. $2200 labor, $900 parts, and $50 misc for $3150. I have to say that is twice what I thought it would be. This is the one time I actually bought an extended warranty thats only good for about another 5K miles. It covered all but a $100 deductible and $683 for the fluid flush and filter. I'm grateful I had the warranty, but I didn't expect a fluid flush and filter change to be almost $700.
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- Torque Converter
- Transmission Fluid Flush
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Hello all. I am a semi-frequent user of GMTrucks.com. I’ve had several cosmetic and suspension modifications to my truck (Bilstein 5100’s, roadactive suspension, hellwig rear sway bar, interior mods), nothing major in the drivetrain. I just crossed 50,000 miles, and it looks like yet another TCC failure (first one at 24,500 to 25,000 miles). It’s a 2020 Custom Trail Boss, 4.3. When the first converter failed, they ended up putting 2 thermal bypass valves in it. After the last TBV change, transmission never sees over 150°. What do I need to do to have GM put a better converter in my truck to prevent future hangups (sonnax, maybe)? How should I approach this to ensure I don’t keep losing my truck for weeks at a time? I don’t overload it, I don’t dog it, and the fluid still looks clean (changed with last thermal bypass valve at 30,000 miles, total fluid exchange and filter replacement). It seems like every 25,000 miles, I’ll be back for another torque converter. I don’t haul or tow frequently. When I do, it’s usually no more than a single axle utility trailer with some light household refuse, or an enclosed single wheel with a flat track motorcycle in it. Bike weighs 600 pounds. Tongue weight below the 1,760 payload rating on the sticker in the door. I’ve never gone more than about 40 miles when towing. Usually interstate or rural rustic road (55 mph and no traffic) Any suggestions? I really like the truck and don’t want to trade it in. It suits me for what I need, and I’ve put a lot of time and love into this machine.
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- torque converter
- 6l90
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Looking for some wisdom here. I have a 2002 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 LQ4 with a 4l80. Backstory: I blew the engine at around 200k miles and just replaced it. I figured while i was at it, I might as well replace the torque converter as well. NOTE, I had no issues with the old torque converter or the 4l80. It shifted smoothly consistently. I got this torque converter for the 4l80: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/pro-king-automatic-transmission-remanufactured-torque-converter-gm88h/10011464-p?product_channel=local&store=9892&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=9892&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiArLyuBhA7EiwA-qo80JeskOfw5S1-A-xYYUBwIeJOBIBiQn3lfeBvRNIgPmm54JJ2XL0oDBoCPgMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds It's a remanufactured 4l80 Torque converter with a 2200-2400 stall which I believe it a bit more than stock. It got installed properly, filled with about 1.3 quarts atf before installation but has been giving me issues since. Upon start up, the converter slips with a bit of a shudder before shifting into first gear and continues to slip in first gear if anything more than a gentle push on the gas pedal is used. However, after about 10 minutes of driving, this goes back to normal and it will get into first just fine unless it's on a steep hill. The converter still revs up and slips as it goes into 2nd, third or 4th gear somewhat but I think that may be due to the slightly higher stall... Anyway, I wondered if it could be due to the computer learning the new converter and put about 150 miles on the truck but it still does the same on startup. As far as I know, I didn't loose fluid during the torque converter change but I'm planning on changing the transmission fluid this weekend to see if it helps. Does this ring a bell with anyone's experience? I'm not a professional mechanic but something seems wrong here. Is it a faulty remanufactured converter or does it sound like user error. As far as I can tell, none of the slippage is due to the transmission. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to pull the 4l80 to replace the converter but will if that's what's needed. Thanks
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- torque converter
- slip
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I'm going to need to have the torque converter on my 2013 Silverado 2500 6.0 replaced & would like to have a price range in mind of what it should cost all said & done when I go to the shop so I don't get ripped off. I know rates & such vary depending on location (I'm in NJ) but I'm just looking for a round about price for this specific truck, maybe from someone who's been there & done that.. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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- torque converter
- transmision
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Truck was shuttering a little, almost felt like it was slipping saturday driving in the city, highway fine. Sunday morning there's a whine from the front of the trans at idle. 5 mins down the road the trans/engine revs are jumping all over the place catching and slipping or shuddering till eventually something let go and it starts to coast with the engine reved up. No movement in any gear, engine revving fine, just no power being transmitted in fwd rev or low. Gets towed to the dealer sunday and monday they say its moving fine at least in the lot, they haven't looked into it further yet. Any ideas on what would cause this? It wouldn't even try to move and the next day its moving fine. Also any TSBs with the torque converter or 6 speed trans that might be related? If it is the torque converter do they rebuild the trans as well or just try to flush the debris out? Fortunately its still under warranty (just) but, I like to be informed. Also don't want the trans to go 20k down the road when its out of warranty because it was contaminated. Truck has 145K KMs on it.
- 2 replies
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- 6L80
- 2017 Sierra 1500
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Around 15K I had the transmission issue with it slipping and the dealership replaced the fluid with the mobile 1 which seem to resolve it enough that i could live with. The transmissions still clunks into first when down shifting but whatever. Well now at 30K I have something similar going on, but seems just slightly different. When I'm cruising around 35-40 it almost feels like the truck is braking or downshifting and then speeding up, but enough everyone in the truck can feel it. At first i was thinking it was the DFM kicking in and its opening and closing valves so i bought a pulsar box ( i needed it for tires and autostop/start as well) and disabled the dfm, but it still does this weird shimmy. I know that doesnt necessarily still mean its not dfm but... still. This may sound crazy, but its much worse when its really hot outside and the truck has been sitting for bit. This morning it was cloudy and about 80 degrees. Didn't notice it too bad when i left, but this afternoon it was about 95 (truck had been sitting in the sun for several hours) and when i went to leave even the passenger was thinking i was about to run out of gas once we leveled out around 40. After stopping and going a few times it settles down enough that its back to just being very subtle, but still noticeable. Is anyone else experiencing something similar? Is it DFM, Torque converter, transmission or just something i will have to trade out to resolve. I appreciate any answers that are offered up because i really, really don't want to get rid of this truck.
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Hi, I have a 1997 c1500 ext cab with the small block 350 and a 4L60e. I’m replacing my torque converter but I don’t know what the original stall on the converter is. Some people tell me it’s around 1400 and other people tell me it’s 1650. Does anyone know the stock stall number? And the bolt diameter too please.
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So I have heard that I should look into changing my torque converter or stall. Can someone help me better understand what that is and why I need to change it? Also, maybe some recommendations. They are telling me this because I just got the truck 2 weeks ago but hopefully by next month ill have Intake, Headers, E85 and a street tune. Can't justify a throttle body or intake manifold, change my mind? lol. But I am new to all of this and they are saying maybe a 3200 stall will be good? no clue. TIA!!! Also, can someone point me in the right direction for info on drive shafts and when I need one.
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Hey there! I am in dire need of help. I have been having the SAME issue with my truck for over half a year. My first problem started in January when I noticed my check engine light came on. After two days it went off on its own...then when I was driving on the interstate, my truck started to jerk and the RPM's would jump and just stay there for a while and the truck would not be going any faster, instead it was like breaks were being applied...when they were not. I took it in to the dealer ( Ive since read that that was a dumb idea..) they said that it was just my pedal position sensor (PPS) and they re-calibrated it... A week goes by and I noticed that my check engine lights came on and then went off within a day. On my way home on a flat part of the interstate, a grade break light came on to let me know it had started the assist...which was weird bc I was accelerating on the interstate. Then the RPM's did the same thing as before. I took it in a second time and they just replaced the PPS. This worked I think for less than a month. Then the SAME thing happens, Check engine comes on, Grade Break randomly comes on, RPM's jerk. Take it in for the 3rd time and they say its a wire... SO they replace a random wire...This fixes it for another week. THEN THE SAME THING HAPPENS AGAIN... FINALLLY they say its the torque converted and a pump and that it'll be 5K.... I had already spent over 1k ALREADY. I ended up taking it to a transmission shop because I can't play this game every time. I thought maybe they were just doing something wrong and misdiagnosed it a couple times... but then after a month of having my transmission fixed the check engine light went back on. This time I had time to take it the same day to autozone to get the codes read. It threw out the code P057C three times...this apparently has something to do with the PPS. I took it back to the dealer since they said they would fix it for free if it was the part they previously fixed. The dealership said that the PPS was shot and they had to put in another new one but that they didn't know why it went bad. A week goes by and my grade breaks came on again today randomly and the RPMS are starting to jump again. Has anyone had this problem or head of anyone having this problem?? Thank you in advance!
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- P057C
- Checkengine
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Patient - 2019 1500 LD, 5.3, 6 sp, 7200 miles old, Covid-19 negative. Symptoms - 2-3 second shutter / shake / rumble, during light acceleration, 30-40 MPH and low RPM. Happens while both in V4 mode and while in v8 (manual w/ transmission set to L5). I thinks its the torque converter, but surfing the forum I see this issue mainly referenced to 2015+/- K2s and I'm not sure if they changed the trans in the final years. I'd appreciate either a TSB # or a link to another posting were I could find the TSB. I'd like to be able to take to my dealer and say "HERE....READ....FIX" (politely). Many thanks!
- 4 replies
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- shutter
- torque converter
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Hello new to the forum, so giving it a try. First off I have a 03 Chevy Silverado 2500hd 4x4 with the 6.0L in it. Has 180000 miles on it. Been having a faint whinning noise under the front of it in the morning right at the torque converter, goes away when warms up, but also been having a hard shift when going into Passover gear, when in a hard pull or pulling trailer up hill.But only does it going into passover. On saying all this got to looking at trucks history on car fax found that Mr Transmission had replaced the torque converter. So called a buddy of mine who works at another transmission shop and told him everything and he said sounds like they used wrong torque converter for my truck. Said need check it, but have never got around to it, due to health issues. Just been not pulling with it and not running it hard.Well went on for a year now and when got in my truck last week drove 30 miles that day came home parked it. Went back out that night go to town and started it made a loud clank sound (like a gear or chain breaking) from under truck right in same spot where been hearing whinning noise. Sounded like metal on metal grinding after that. I turned it straight off was ran for no more then 2 mins. When try start it again the lights just dimmed. So thought starter, to cold, it raining fix it tomorrow.Well next morning same thing. Took starter off tested good. Came back home hooked chain to truck pulled up hill. Started looking over everything, put bar on crank and nothing wouldn't move motor locked up. Never had problem with truck oil pressure or nothing, have always serviced it, just that whinning. Question is does it sound like locked up motor or can the torque converter be locked up keeping it from turning? Any help or advise would be great.
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Hello all! First post here! What brought me here was the 8l90 torque converter lockup shudder issue. Most times I'd just take this truck to the dealer and let them sort it out, but as it's out of warranty, this is not something I'd like to pay >$600 to repair (this price was quoted to me for the flush and filter change). After talking to a few service advisors I've found that each of them planned on using a different solution to attempt to alleviate the shudder. The first was going to proceed via one of the bulletins and do a triple fluid swap and filter change, the others were just going to do a standard flush and fluid swap. I plan on owning this vehicle for another few months until the 19's become a little more negotiable but cannot stand to let this shudder go on that long and am a bit worried about destroying the torque converter in the process and washing a whole bunch of parts down into the transmission. So.... my question is if anyone has performed this fluid swap themselves, if it alleviated the issue, and if the filter change is necessary? I saw that many of the Corvette guys were swapping to the Mobil 1 fluid with some success, however, I didn't think this was as much of a fluid performance issue as it was a suspended clutch material / dirty fluid issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!
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I have a 2009 gmc sierra 1500 5.3l 4x4 with 54 thousand miles and recently it seems and feels like I've been having transmission and or torque converter problems. When I'm almost to a complete stop it feels like something just locks up and I can even let my foot off the brake pedal and not go anywhere until I press the gas pedal and start kinda moving, then it feels like something releases. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.