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Hello everyone. Came here with 2022 tahoe GM 6.2 L87 engine problem. 4th cylinder randomly misfires without MIL. When it came to us two months ago it was randomly misfiring by all of the cyilinders, but 1,4,7 were the most. MIL was shown up. Since then we found melted catalytic converter on the left side (1,3,5,7) and changed it. Checked cylinder compression - it is approx. 220 psi (15.5 bar) in every. Changed all of the injectors. Changed all of the spark plugs, wires and coils. All of the spark plugs were completely worn. Now it has only one problem cylinder. It could work without misfire for 1-3 hours staying at idle or start to misfire when accelerator slowly and gently pushed towards to reach approx. 1.5-2k rpm doing 6-25 misfires per logging cycle. No tickling noise. Opened both rocker covers to look at the lifters. They are not stuck when engine is idling. When pushing accelerator fast and completely, or just sharply and briefly push - there are no misfires at all and it stops misfiring if there are some. Total mileage is 25000 miles. 13000 miles ago it had stuck lifter on the right head (2nd cylinder, intake valve). Since then, all of the lifters on the right head have been replaced. Oil pressure is 40 psi at cold engine and 30 psi at hot. Fuel corrections are: -0,5% long bank 1 -1% - -4% - -7% long bank 2 (high percentage when misfires obviously from enriching the mixture with unburned fuel) Short-term correction jumps from 1% in plus to 5-7% in minus, depending on misfires in right bank. Coolant level is constant i guess. Camshaft without any scratches or damages. Could new injector be broken by the chance? Will try to change 4th injector on monday and swap 4th and 3rd AFM system solenoid but it hardly would work. I'll be glad to hear your opinions. -
I have a 2016 Chevy Tahoe 105,000 miles. Twice last week a few days apart my check engine light began flashing about 15-20 minutes into my commute and turned off within about 1-2 minutes both times. My spark plugs were replaced at 97,576 miles last October at the dealership and the coils, boots, etc, were inspected . I’ve been told that putting a tank of high quality supreme grade gas could help the problem. Has anyone else had this issue? -
Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com March 22nd, 2019 The all new Chevy Suburban & Tahoe along with the all new GMC Yukon have been caught testing on public roads once again. We've licensed these images so we can show you the very first look at production lighting for these future 2020 model year vehicles. The last time we saw pre-production models of GM's full-size SUVs was last fall when the 2020 Tahoe and Yukon were caught on film for the first time. This time, the trucks look more complete and almost ready for action. Here's what our spy photographer has to say about the 2020 Suburban, Tahoe and Yukon: And here are the images:
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I just saw a Tahoe LT on my way home from work using the LEDs as DRLs at full 100% brightness just like the LTZ models. Yes, I am sure it was a LT model and it looked totally stock even with the entry level honeycomb pattern grille. He was going the opposite way so I couldn't stop him to ask. Someone out there has figured it out! Does anyone have an update for this mod?
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Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
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Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is. -
Seen this driving the other day. Interior looks like an Escalade but rear end makes me think otherwise couldn’t get a look at the front. https://imgur.com/a/n7lLtJC IMG_2143.MOV -
I recently purchased a rebuilt title Yukon, comes with the magnetic ride. The ride is extremely rough, to the point where I’m assuming the system is just not operating. I’m not getting a message on the display for anything, unless the parking sensors and lane change sensors not working have something to do with it. The previous owner said he installed a 2” level kit to help the ride. At the time I didn’t understand what he was talking about. But anyone with any information or previous experience that could spread some knowledge, I would be thankful. -
2014-2018 Chevy Silverado's and GMC Sierra's have a problem with cycling of the thermostat that causes stress fractures on the radiator leading to coolant leaks. Attached are GM bulletins on the 2014 and 2015 models. As one can see they have provided special coverage on the 2014 models to 5 years or 100000 miles for this problem.(Bulletin 15829) This is not true of the 2015 like mine although they use similar verbiage in the bulletin P11513A and P11513F. This problem can also exist in 2016-18 models according to what a mechanic told me. It should be noted that Bulletin P11513A and F also applies to 2015 Cadillac Escalade Models, 2015 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, 2015 GMC Sierra Denali, Yukon Models, Yukon Denali Models Equipped with 4.3L, 5.3L or 6.2L Engine (RPOs LV1, LV3, L83 or L86). Anyone regardless of year and mileage with this problem needs to report this to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) using the compliant form ( https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/) or calling the hot line at 1-888-327-4236. With enough complaints the NHTSA may force GM to issue a recall or provide extend coverage. Even if you have had this repaired filling a compliant may get you reimbursed for your costs. Another option is to file a compliant with the Better Business Bureau. They have a compliant form on line just type in BBB Car-Truck Compliant in your search engine. It will not hurt to file a compliant with both the BBB and NHTSA. Although If you are going to do this file with the BBB first as they will not accept your compliant if you file with the NHTSA first. 2015 Radiator PI1513A.pdf 2014 Radiator Special Coverage 15829.pdf GM Bulletin P11513F January 2019.pdf -
These are 1 month old all-weather liners from the 2020 Tahoe in black color. Genuine GM OEM products offer precise fit and high quality finish. We have traded the car for 22 and did not get to use the liners. They cover first and second row. I was told they fit 2015-2020 Tahoes and Yukons and even Escalades First row- GM part # 84185470 Second row - GM part # 23237406 My price is $90 + actual shipping. I have paid $260 for them. My loss is your gain. Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon
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CHEVROLET TAHOE GMC YUKON AUDIO UPGRADE, KICKER® 200 WATT AMPLIFIER AND SUBWOOFER SYSTEM GM part 19355507 Kicker part PSUTA15 Brand new never used or open GM Genuine OEM Accessories Amplifier and Subwoofer system made by Kicker for Tahoes 2016-2020 and many other GM trucks. ( Please note this is the not the cheaper Sub only kit but rather full audio upgrade system with amplifier, DSP and all parts, Retail rice at dealers is $1300. Part # 19355507. Please check gm accessories site for compatibility. It retails for $900-$1300 new on eBay and at dealers, I paid $930. Selling for the price of $625+shipping. The parts are sealed and never opened. I bought it for my 2020 Tahoe, but I do not have time to install it. It is plug and play according to GM.
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Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
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Hi everyone. I have a 2000 Suburban I just bought a couple months ago. I got a couple of check engine codes I've been working through, but I'm stuck on these last three. I have the following current codes: P0175 (System Too Rich Bank 2), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1), and P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1). I had codes for knock sensors as well, but got them replaced, and only these three codes remain. I took temperatures at the exhaust ports on the manifolds on both sides. Bank 2 was significantly hotter than bank 1. By more than 100F-150F. I took temperatures at the inlet and outlet of both cats. Sometimes the outlet was hotter, sometimes it wasn't. I have a cheap Walmart infrared so I take all temp readings with a grain of salt however. Outlet temps were within 100F of the inlets. I also took readings of the o2 sensor voltages for upstream and downstream for both banks. The upstreams appeared fine but the downstreams were pretty inconsistent. Sometimes staying pretty flat near 0.03v, other times they'd spike. They did this regardless of being at idle, or revving the engine at 2000rpm in park. I'm slightly confused at the information I gathered today, I'm trying to determine what road to go down. I'm good at working on things, not so much diagnosing. I plan on replacing both downstream o2 sensors with new ACDelco's to start, and that should tell me if the cats are bad if the codes come back, if my thinking is correct. But I'm most confused about how one bank of cylinders could be running rich, but the other isn't? Shouldn't all fuel injectors be getting the same amount fuel, at the same pressure? Everything I've found online says if I have P0175, I should also have P0172. -
I got a 2006 Tahoe that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times with factory 187 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210 and will stay there all day idling fans turning on and off working normally. But when I drive temp drops back down to 165-175. Has anybody sean this and know what the issue might be? I’m checking coolant temperature with ODBII scanner and gage. -
I have a 2015 Tahoe PPV and was wondering if anyone had any information or literature on the competition mode on this model. I have driven it in both modes and have not noticed any significant differences. I am also curious about how active fuel management works on these if possible! -
I have a 2000 yykon denali,new battery,alternator,light switch. When you shut the vehicle off and exit with keys,the headlights and tail lamps will sometimes flicker or illuminate. Can hear something like a relay clicking under the dash. Sometimes its all of them and sometimes just park lamps. Advise please. -
John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
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Wife took the truck to get new tires and she knocked it into "auto 4wd" and I noticed it a day after.. Now it has a rough sound and feel coming from the back.. Where do I start? -
I have a 2003 Tahoe LT that I'm gonna put a 2in leveling kit on. What would be the biggest tire/rim combo I could do with no rubbing/trimming required? Thanks!
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I purchased a 2016 Tahoe in December and have put about 700 miles on it. About two weeks ago I was on the highway and the car slowed down to 15 miles per hour and would not go any faster. I tried accelerating but all that did was increase the revs. I was able to slowly drive the car back to my house and had it towed to a dealer. I have recently been notified that the transmission needs to be "torn down" and rebuilt. I have been trying to get in contact with GM to explain that I am unhappy with this as a solution as the car is basically brand new. This post is to serve as a warning in to how they deal with situations like this. I was given a case number and told that someone would be reaching out to me. After a week I decided I would check in because no one had called me. After being unable to get in touch with anyone at GM I decided to call the dealership. That was the point where they told me the plan to rebuild the transmission. All of this was taking place without my knowledge and before I had been given any information. Apparently my advocate at GM that was working on the case was unable to get in touch with the service department at the dealership so the matter was being tabled...I guess. Today I called again was not able to get in touch with my designated "Senior Account" rep. I told the person on the phone I would really appreciate speaking to someone else that could help me. Twenty minutes later they came back to the phone and said they were unable to find that person or a supervisor. The suggestion was to wait until someone would call me back within 24 hours. After not receiving a phone call the first time, I was hesitant to do this but did anyway. I got a call from my senior account rep a few minutes later saying they were still waiting on information from the dealership regarding the repairs. How was I able to get the information before they were if they were working on my behalf? Anyway, I am now attempting to get GM to take the car back or replace it because I do not trust a car that has transmission issues before reaching 1000 miles. Has anyone gone through this process? I had a Tahoe before this car that had no issues and used to advocate for the quality. The way this situation has been handled by the company is very eye opening. -
I have a 99 tahoe and a 97 single cab 1500. Can I move the bed and cab from the 1500 to the tahoe chassis? -
Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
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Good morning...I wanted to see if anyone else has been shopping for a used GM large SUV? (Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL) We have been window shopping for a little while now...and I was getting really close to a deal for a used 2019, with less than 30k miles. I started reading some articles that are indicating the supply market is building up on these (probably all vehicles) in whole sale auctions, rental fleets, corporate fleets, lease returns etc...but no where to sell them... the demand has dropped out...some are estimating used car prices will drop 10% and stay lower longer than back in 2008. I was curious what/if any experiences you have had while shopping for a used vehicle? I'm not sure the dealers have really had the wave him them yet...but I'm sure its coming... good or bad experiences? Thanks in advance for the discussion.
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Putting together a little Light guide similar to what MotoMedic did for the Silverados. More details to come on this with swaps and some photos (Scroll down a few posts). (Yukon and Yukon XL Only Low, High, fog, license and back-up apply as GMC has more OEM LED handling the others). Some of these may apply to 2014 model year but the bulb size is different like the 2014 Yukons. Tutorial videos (Courtesy of CarCareKiosk and some random dude on YouTube) reflect as: * Chevrolet ** GMC Side Note: OEM HID Color is approximately 4200-4300K. LuciasMaximus and I are playing around with color matching the factory LED DRL. The factory LED DRL appears to be between 5500K-6000K color wise. Suburban*/Tahoe*/Yukon**/Yukon XL**: Low Beam Lights w/HID*,** - D3S Low Beam Lights*,** - H11 (H11-55W) Replace Low Beam Bulb Tutorial * Replace Low Beam Bulb Tutorial ** High Beam Lights*,** - 9005 (HB3) Replace High Beam Bulb Tutorial * Replace High Beam Bulb Tutorial ** Front turn signal* - 7440NA Replace Front Turn Signal Bulb Tutorial * Fog Lights*,** - PSX26W - (12278 / 12278C1 / H28W) Replace Fog Light Bulb Tutorial * Replace Fog Light Bulb Tutorial ** Back-up Lights / Reverse Lights*,** - 921 (921W / W16W) Replace Back-up/Reverse Light Tutorial * Replace Back-up/Reverse Light Tutorial ** License Plate Lights*,** - 194 (194W / 12961) Replace License Plate Bulb Tutorial *, ** (Starts at 0:30) Rear Turn/Stop Lights* - 7440 (7440W) Replace Rear Turn/Stop Bulbs Tutorial * -
Hello all, new member here, first post. Did a search but couldn't find a recent thread with similar problems so here we are. Bought a used Tahoe with transmission that was supposed to have been rebuilt for my son. He drove for about 10 months and it went into limp mode, I figured trans went bad and swapped for one out of a donor that was wrecked, didn't know about limp mode yet. Swapped in the trans and truck drove better than the rebuild, actually went through all the gears, son went to get inspection but needed to put miles on for computer after it reset. While driving it suddenly went to having nothing when put into drive, google research lead me to limp mode and this site. What could cause the trans to suddenly go to limp mode while in the middle of driving? Bad ecm? or bad shift solenoid? Looking forward to getting some feedback and hopefully being a productive member to the board Thanks Burnunit
