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Showing results for tags 'power'.
Found 20 results
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I bought a 2023 new body style Silverado 1500 LT the only issue im having is that the passenger seat isn’t electric its a manual, has anyone done the swap from manual to electric ? if so how complicated is it -
I have a 98 Silverado z71 with 5.7 350. The check engine light came on giving p0405 code. (low egr voltage). I have replaced the egr and nothing changed. I tested the wiring with the egr unplugged and it tests fine, but if I plug the egr in I lose the 12 volts. If I unplug it I have 12 volt. Now that's with my ohm meter. If I put a load on it, ie hook a headlight to it, it wont power it. I have traced all of the wires back to the ecm. They all are fine. I even unplugged the wiring from ecm and put 12volts from the battery thru the 12volt wire going to the egr and the wire is fine. A friend who is a mechanic by trade said it could be the ecm. I replaced the ecm today.(not a brand new one. one from a used parts/salvage yard). I got the truck to run and the check engine light came on within a few minutes. Same as before, with the ohm meter I have 12 volts going to the egr with the plug unplugged, as soon as I plug it in it goes to 0.03 volts. I even bought another egr thinking it could possible be a bad/shorted one. I'm at a total loss. any help would be great. Thank you!! -
So I'm living out of my truck now while I save some funds to by a houseboat in San Diego. I just bought a cheap inverter from walmart to run my laptop and I'm wondering what implications this has for my battery. I have an ACDelco silver line (30 month) that's about a year old and has never had excessive drainage. So I guess my question is what exactly is the excessive drain limit? I mean is there a minimum voltage I should keep in mind to avoid premature battery failure. Obviously I want to avoid a no start condition. What voltage could that occur at? I'm just charging my laptop with it (130w charger) and am assuming running it while the engine is off is fine for a while. I tried to google and youtube for some answers but was inundated with garbage results so hopefully this question is fine here. Any other inverter related advice that might not be obvious to consider would be appreciated too. And inverter recommendations. I'm pretty sure this is a modified sine wave (cheap, Everstart plus 400w), are the true sine wave models worth it? -
So I have a question don’t get on me for being dumb just want other opinions. I have a ls2 swapped rado bought the truck on a deal only problem was I couldn’t drive it for more than 20-30mins without getting trans hot on the dash and would go into limp mode but if you cut the engine off for a minute or two and cut it back on message went away for another 20-30mins but the actual trans temps never hit about 180 this is where it all starts. anyway 1blown torque converter later and a trans rebuild my transmission guy told me the genius put a 2500 ecu in just to get the truck to fire up with a slight tune that pulled like a F****** freight train back to the point he tells me the truck thinks is has a 4l80 in it witch It doesn’t I have a 4l60 he said I needed to take it to a tuner shop asap so I don’t blow my trans or torque converter again because there’s a lot of major differences mainly being gear rations and shift points witch I thought a tune would fix anyway but I wasn’t for sure so I got the truck tuned by Powerfab autosports and they reflashed the ecu programmed it and did a dyno tune when I pick up the truck the dude shows me the power chart and the truck made 280hp 360tq witch I think is way ****ing off but I am not a master mechanic I know a lot about vehicle but not enough to be firm on saying that’s bullshit Why I needs y’all’s insight is because when the truck was ****ed up and giving trans hot display on dash the ****** was a ****** Ton faster and pulled a boat load harder the ass would squat the truck would drop a gear and scream so beautifully she would literally throw me back in my seat and keep in mind this is with 305/35/24s now it’s just feels like I have a slightly beefed up 4.8 engine mods are air intake long tube headers full exhaust trans cooler and that’s pretty much it as far as I’m aware does anyone know or have any insight as to what is going on and why I am making such low numbers or where the **** my power went?? and I would appreciate no assholes just need some info thanks!
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Hey, I have quite the problem solve for all you techs out there. It's been brought to a GM Dealer; no luck. I'm far from unable to work on my own stuff and am mechanically inclined but this one has me stumped. Problem: I'm from Northern Ontario; where an average winter temp is minus 15-25 degrees Celsius. All summer long in warm weather, my dash cluster will work perfectly fine. Last winter, the only time I would have a problem would be when it was around -20 or colder. This year, anything from +2ish and below, absolutely nothing on my dash cluster will work except for the black light (back light works normally, turns on and off when the lighting is proper) this includes speedo, tach, battery, gas, cruise control, odometer... until my truck warms up and I shut it off and warm it back up. And when it's cold, that's no drive around town, I'm talking if it's cold it takes a good half hour on the highway and then I have to shut the key off and turn it back on and my dash flickers and works from then on till I shut it off and it gets cold again. When you cycle the key, the needles kind of flicker and try to go, but no dice. I am beyond stumped. Let me know if any of you have had the same problem or have any type of solution. Justin. -
I need to add power to my power seats can I get ground and power from my audio system and connect it to the pins on the seat plug to be able to get power and move the seat
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I'm currently looking at these mirrors for an 07 GMC 2500HD Classic here: http://monsterautoparts.com/GMC/SIERRA/gmc_sierra_towing_mirrors_telescopic.htm Item1339-0010B because its the pair. They're exactly what I want: Power mirror, heated and turn signal BUT its manual telescoping. Is there any place I can get all that with power telescoping? I'm kind of at a loss of where to look since the ones I had bookmarked seem to have gone missing. I just have standard mirrors now so the next question I'm asking is, what else does it seem I would need to install these? Am I just not looking hard enough to find other options? I went to a local GM dealer and they're guy said GM had discontinued the OEM ones.
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Had a 2018 Sierra 2500 for a loaner while my 1500 was having warranty work done. We got a couple 0 degree days here in St Louis during the polar vortex and the 2500 went into limp mode and wouldn't allow me to go above 25 mph. CEL came on and a message popped up "Reduced Engine Power". I was 30 miles from the dealer that loaned it to me and they sent someone out and gave me a 2019 Silverado 1500. Next day they towed the 2500 back and found the diesel fuel had "gelled" from the cold temps. Curious, is this common in diesels? I let it warm up for at least 5 minutes before driving as I know diesels need a little more warm up time than gas engines. How could it idle and drive up to 25 mph with the fuel "gelled" as the dealer put it? Didn't shake or sputter, just had the rpm limiter kick in at 25 mph. -
2009 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 duramax The two power outlets on the dash and the one under the console have no power I have checked the fuses and wires and they are good I don’t know what it could be any help would be great thanks
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Hi, I have 2 questions. One, I want to do the HD Front end conversion on my 2007 NNBS Silverado1500. I know what I need, and I have decided on the 2011-2013 HD grill and bumper. I have gone on line and seen some people go with the 2007-2010 HD hood and some people go with the 2011-2013 HD hood. Would any one know the difference or if one fits better onto the 1500 truck? And does anyone know how to install the bumper? And the second question was, How can I convert the truck into full electric mode? I have manual windows and no power locks. My truck is extended cab and I would wish for the back windows to work as well. Or does anyone have a really good video on what parts I need and how to do it step by step? I am by no means a mechanic but i do work on my trucks here and there on small things. Thanks in advanced! -
I just bought a 1991 Chevy C70 Kodiak C7H042 6.6L 403 CUI Diesel in amazingly great condition. I am now the 3rd owner of this dump truck. The first owner took great care of the vehicle, everything thing appears to be well maintained and no shade tree work. All the parts, wiring and accessories appear to be original and well maintained. However, the second owner bought this truck and never used it. It has sat in a field for about four years. To get to the point, I completely serviced the truck and replaced the batteries, checked the fuses, grounds, relays and I have absolutely no power to the truck. No interior or exterior lights and no lights on the instrument panel. What could be the issue?
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I am replacing the bench seat in my 86 K10 to a 40/20/40 seat set. The driver side seat is electric adjustment only, not heated. Is there more to wiring the seat up other than running a new power & ground wire from the fuse panel? -
Hey guys and gals I was hoping y’all could answer a question of mine. I currently own a 2019 Silverado trail boss with the 5.3 and 6 speed transmission. A mechanic told me the transmission is a ticking time bomb if I do any performance mods. Such as a cam swap and tune. So I explained my plan for the future. Cold air intake, flow master exhaust, headers, tune and cam swap. He said if I do any of the big changes to the engine the tranny may go out. The reason why is because the stock transmission was only made to handle the stock HP and TQ. Have any of y’all had an issue like this after some big performance mods? -
This weekend someone slammed my passenger door probably to hard in my opinion. Not sure if this is the cause of the problem but the issue did start soon after. The Window and mirror lost power first intermittently, now completely. I checked the fuse and also didn’t see anything obvious as far as wires being loose or broken from the harness. Any suggestions or recommendations for a fix would be greatly appreciated. -
Hello new to this site. was wondering if anyone had done a power antenna conversion on an express van, and if so where did you buy it? thanks.
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I like the fact that my 6.2 has lots of power and actually does get good gas mileage. I can run 65/70 and easily get 23-25mpg. I’m about to upgrade tires and looking for recommendations. I know I’ll lose some mpg and possibly low end power, but I don’t want to turn my beast of a truck into a turd. I currently have stock 275/55r20 (31.9x10.8) on stock “snowflake” rims with Bilstein 2” strut/shock upgrade. 3 tire sizes I’m interested in: 275/60r20 (33x10.8) 285/55r20 (32.3x11.2) 295/55r20 (32.8x11.6) If I had my way, I’d throw a 305/55r20 on there but I know I’d kill my power. I know this because I have 295/55r18 on my Ford and I ended up doing a gear swap from .373 to .456 to bet my power back. I’m in the real estate business. I buy and sell farm and recreational land so I put lots of hwy miles on this GMC yet still need a tire to get me in and out of places on the farm and pull a tractor when I need to. I have trucks to mudbogg in, looking for practicality here. Really hoping to to hear from guys with 6.2s. Thanks in advance.
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I have a Go Rhino sport bar in transit, I believe I will be purchasing (5) Q Series LED pod lights from Rigid Industries. I'd love to see how others have ran their conductors for power, fuses, disconnects, and cab / interior switch setups. Any and all pictures , and information are greatly appreciated. Youtube and forum searches have been mostly a bust. Interested in what lights you all are running? 2016 Silverado Z71 LT Crew Cab
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I apologize if this is the wrong forum but I didn't see a forum for my year model. I need some experienced help if possible. I have a 2009 Yukon XL 6.0L, low millage.. No codes have been thrown. Battery and alternator are good. The key is a normal key I think, no RFID stuff. As normal, when you stick the key in the switch it chimes and the display and gauges come on when the switch is turned.. then it cranks. I have a progressing issue where I insert and turn the key that nothing happens...no chime, no gauges light up, no crank. almost like it has no battery... After several turns of the key everything comes to life and it cranks fine. Here are a few more symptoms. I have seen the touch screen radio display flicker while driving... Another time I turned to crank, the starter engaged, and it instantly died a second later like you pulled a plug. Also normally, when the switch is cut off the radio plays a little longer until the door is opened, the interior lights come on, and the headlights stay on for a few minutes. When I parked last night and cut the switch off, the radio just died, the headlights cut off, and the interior lights did not cut on when I opened the door. I even pressed on the remote unlock / lock keys, rear access open.. nothing. It was like the battery was unplugged. I got back in, put the key in the switch and nothing.. About 2 minutes later I tried again and it cranked up as if nothing happened. The remote control worked as well as everything else. I thought it may be the switch, but when I switch the vehicle off the interior lights wont work, the remote quit, inside lock buttons quit..etc... Kinda ruled the switch out maybe? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to start buying random parts to try and fix.. Thank you for your time..
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