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Showing results for tags 'pcm'.
Found 12 results
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Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
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Hi, We are developing a new software program that focuses on removing DTCs from vehicles. Our support list is very broad and includes trucks as well. I would like to know if you would be interested in such a program? Or you may know people who need it. Let me know. Best regards.
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2011 Chevy 1500 LT crew - 144k miles So, after countless hours of searching, I’ve decided to post here in desperate need of help. My truck is currently in the shop, and on its 3rd mechanic trying to diagnose/fix the issue. Originally I was getting an oil pressure sensor unit code months ago, and about a month of driving later, and I finally lost my oil pressure gauge (dropped to zero) but the truck was perfectly fine. No loss of oil, etc. So I brought it in to get it fixed and change the oil - they put an OEM part in and changed the screen. Reset everything and I picked it up, a few moments later my check engine light returned. Scanned it when I got home, same error code - active. Checked for oil leaks, etc - nothing. Returned a month later for them to fix it, they put in another OEM part and new screen…drive it 3 miles down the road, and it trips again. They’ve checked the valve cover gasket and checked the PCM, everything seems fine. The truck is not burning oil either. I’ll add that my oil pressure gauge on my dash works fine now since they swapped sensors too. Everyone is stumped on what to do, and I’m about to potentially go down the rabbit hole of ‘throwing parts at it’. Starting with the PCM and then the valve cover gasket, and many thousands of bucks potentially. Does anyone have the slightest idea what’s going on? The PCM is throwing no other codes either, he has graphed and checked it. Is it possible for the PCM to be corrupt without it giving errors, etc? The tech is a 30 year vet, and a family friend - so by no means is he stupid. But this has stumped two other techs with equal experience too. Now my truck is past inspection, and with my Check Engine light on, it’ll never pass. Plus I’m still half way on my loan, so just selling it isn’t an option. Help!!!! -
I'm looking for a replacement ECM for my 1998 Corvette. The part is only good for the 97 and 98 model years. Changes were apparently made for model years 99 and newer. Delco part number if useful is: 19332289 or 16238212. This part has proven much more difficult to find than I anticipated. If you or anyone you know own one, please let me know. I'd love to get my car back on the road!
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Having some issues with my '93 C1500 stalling and dying. It started last month when I was replacing parts to get my truck back on the road after sitting for a long time without much use. After I had managed to get the A/C blowing cold air again (freon, compressor pigtail and tensioner pulley) I noticed that the idle would slow and get choppy, even stalled and died once. I went back to work on it and ended up putting in a brand new Delco egr valve, IAC, fuel pressure regulator assembly, emissions tubing, intake adaptor, intake and egr solenoid. Even with all the parts the truck will still stall with or without the ac engaged and gets significantly worse with the egr solenoid plugged in. As in it stalls terribly at very light throttle since it looks like the valve completely closes when you hit the throttle just right. The engine is a jasper 350 crate with around 80k miles and Ive replaced every single sensor on it at some point or another. I should also mention that before this work was done I'd had the egr blocked off completely with a plate and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in. I just wanted to get it back to stock once the stalling started so I could have a reliable truck again. At this point i'm worried the problem may be in the pcm or prom since it was running great most of the day with the solenoid unplugged then started stalling again after sitting for an hour turned off. I'm stumped -
2000 Suburban 5.3L. I'm having problems with the injector circuit for cylinder 3 in my car. I removed the connector on the injector and verified that it's getting power (constant 12V when key in ON position and 14V when engine is running). When a test light was put on the ground terminal it illuminated but didn't pulse. When I looked at the voltage though, it was bouncing all over between 0 and 14V. I turned the car off and noticed the ground terminal had 1.7 kOhms resistance to ground when the engine is off. Thought that was funny as it shouldn't be connected to ground when the car is off and if there was a short, the resistance should be 0. I traced the wiring and didn't see anything wrong. I then found a diagram for the ECM connectors, located the terminal for the cylinder 3 injector (ironically terminal #3) and found the same 1.7 kOhm resistance to ground at this terminal. This was the terminal on the actual ECM not the wiring harness. 1. Is this sufficient evidence that the ECM is bad? 2. Can I just go to a junkyard and pull an ECM out of another 2000 Suburban with the 5.3L and put it into my car with no problems? 3. If not, does anybody have experience with flashmastersecm.com? Judging from ebay, they look reputable.
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Question fellas And ladies, I typically don't post on forums, but I'm at a poss currently. My truck is 2010 Silverado 4.8 and after driving it for 30 or so minutes the traction control/ stabitrax light comes on, the tachometer cuts off and the truck feels like it's jerking going forward, if I'm stopping or stopped the truck stalls and won't turn back on for Maybe an hour. I've replaced the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, engine temperature sensor, replaced the plugs and wires maybe a year ago, and I don't drive it much because I live close to work. Yesterday I had been driving it a little farther because I thought it was fixed, but as I was getting on the highway, the truck popped/ jerked, and the stabitrax/traction control off displayed and a couple of seconds later, the tachometer went to zero. I was able to get her home, but the truck kept jerking all the way home. I think the problem is unrelated, but my oil pressure has been getting lower as I drive it. Any help would be great, thanks.
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This may be a rather strange question, but is it possible to reset the learned driving habits? My 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4 crew cab drove great for the the first year (new to about 10,000 miles). The truck was very responsive and the AFM was not bad then--it only kicked in at about 45 mph or greater and it was not objectionable. After about a year, the AFM started engaging much more aggressively and at lower speeds--the truck would periodically jerk violently when it entered V4 mode. It began trying hard to avoid downshifting, so there is absolutely no power when you turn corners or start up a hill unless you really shove down on the gas pedal. I distinctly remember a coworker saying, "What's wrong with this thing?!?" soon after the clunking and other stuff started. The dealer said it was learning my driving habits and everything was normal. Now, I have 57k miles on the truck and I really do not enjoy driving it anymore. I have about a 25 mile commute with long stretches of 35 mph speed zones. If I don't drive in M5 or activate the Range device, the truck repeatedly goes "CLUNK, lug, SQUEAK!" as the AFM engages, the truck lugs along for a bit, and goes back to V8 mode (with passive exhaust valve squeak, of course). I have noticed the clunking is much worse when the outside temperature is below about 45 degrees. The dealership says I am stuck with this behavior because it has adapted to my low-speed stretches and there is nothing I can do about it. They say most of their similar complaints come from people who drive at lower speeds. The truck has only been maintained at the dealership--I got tired of them saying I was not maintaining my last truck properly (Mobil-1 changes at 4-5k miles or 45% oil monitor remaining, coolant and transmission flushes at 30-35k, and all fluids replaced at 50k miles, mind you). I have had them do far more maintenance than recommended and I don't hesitate to throw this fact back in their face when they start to say I have done something wrong to cause the bad behavior (they said going too long between oil changes probably caused it until I told them to check their records). They tried pulling the battery and it didn't help anything. I would love to have my truck drive the way it did when it was new. I know I could get a tune, but I have an 84 month, 84K mile warranty and I don't want to risk having too many increments of the flash counter. My dealer says to get a tune when the warranty expires, but I doubt I will keep the truck that long--I honestly don't have much faith that the drive train will hold together. The constant "clunk-lug-squeak!" reminds me of the clown cars you see at a circus. Does anyone know of a way to reset the learned behavior or do I have to live with it until I get rid of the truck? I can get access to SPS if there is a way to resolve this via the dealership tools. Any help would certainly be appreciated!
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Good evening everyone! This is my first posting on the forum! I’ve got a 2011 GMC 2500HD 6.0 that has visited 2 tuners in the central Texas area. I have a TSP VVT2 cam, 3600 converter, forged internals, And exhaust, with more to come soon. I have been told by these shops that my truck could not be dialed in like it needs to be due to missing airflow tables on HPtuners. Supposedly the 2011 HD’s have a odd computer that has to be torque based tuned. I am having idle problems... pulling up to stop lights and turns the truck will die 8/10 times, but starts right back up. Anyone know a way around this hiccup? These shops have gotten it to the best they could, which still is not enough obviously.
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I have a 2003 Suburban Z71 that I just converted to electric fans. I used a factory wiring harness that I found on ebay, and the fans turn on when the temp hits 190. The truck was tuned by a popular tuner, but the fans will not kick on with the A/C compressor. I have wired in both wires to the pcm connectors. I cannot for the life of me get it to turn on with the A/C compressor. Could it be a bad relay? Could my 2003, not be able to control the fans when the A/C kicks on. I have fried my compressor, and would like to get this figured out before spending money on another. Does the tuner need to turn on the capability for the fans to kick it on? @JennabearI didnt use your tunes for this as I had another option at the time, but I need some answers. If you guys can turn it on, then you will have my money today. Anybody else have any ideas? -
I need some help I’m not a mechanic totally but I have been going to school for it and my 03 Silverado 5.3 is misfiring and I don’t know what the problem could be I replaced the spark plugs coils and all the cylinders are getting spark and I had a compression test and the the cylinders have near perfect compression so I don’t think it’d be that. I even replaced the ecu/pcm in it and nothing changed it’s a hard idle and had no power can’t even make it a block really it also dies when I hit the brakes after going anywhere over 5 mph.
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Hey guys, First time poster hopefully not breaking any rules. I have a few questions relating to vats and the bcm. Im swapping a lq9 from a 2002 escalade into a 2001 silverado that has a l31 in it My questions are: 1)Can i just swap the pcm from escalade into the silverado without activating the vats?(both has the 0411 pcm) 2)Or do i have to swap both the pcm and bcm so that the vin matches on both modules? is this even an option? 3)what are the things that the pcm checks for when deciding if it is going to pass vats or not. Im asking all of this because hptuners is out of the question rightnow, nobody has it where i live. Thanks in advance
