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Showing results for tags 'oil consumption'.
Found 5 results
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So fairly recently I noticed that my oil pressure is reading a bit low. I have topped off the oil, replaced the oil pressure switch and filter (located beneath the switch) to no success. It still reads around 20 psi idle (warm) and, after a bit of driving (ie. warmed up) it only reads about 25, maybe 30 psi tops, at around 1700-2000 RPM. Someone had mentioned it could be one of two things, since I dealt with the sensor already: oil relief valve could be stuck open, and/or the siphon tube on the intake side could have a broken/craked o-ring. Since I've done the sensor and the filter below it, are these the next recommended things to check? There are no physical leaks. It does not appear to be burning oil (although it might, but is quite slow as I don't see any evidence from the tailpipe, even of cold starts in cold weather--at least none of the exhaust fumes look to be like smoke from oil burning). Even so, when the oil is full, it still reads low pressure even with the new sensor installed (so the old sensor was actually fine. and yes it was tested with a mechanical gauge before the sensor was done ). The engine runs fine, no ticks or noises, just low pressure. Some people on other forums say that my oil pressures are normal, while I see the opposite, and some people are reporting 40 psi idle, and 50-60 psi while cruising, which is why I'm wondering about this. I have not gotten a warning light, and the gauge has never dropped to 0 or been pegged at 80 psi. When it starts cold, it is around 35-40 psi and then drops off as the truck warms up. I did take it to the dealer, they said it needs a new pump (now, it occured to me later that perhaps what they meant to tell me is that the relief valve might be stuck open but just replace the whole pump). All they said was "you need a new oil pump" which I'm sure that they are glad to say because it's an 8 hour job, and at dealer shop rates, that adds up quick (I got an estimate from them and the local independent shop which I've used before for stuff. Dealer said $1500 installed plus tax (so maybe $1700 in the end?) Independent shop said $1000 plus tax, so if it does need replacing, I'll probably just go to the local shop as I trust them (as they fixed trans problems on some of our other company vehicles to our satisfaction). Am i correct in looking at the o-ring and relief valve. I know that if the relief valve is bad, I need to just replace the pump, but I'm also tempted to say if they drop the pan and check the o-ring, they might as well just replace the pump, as the pump itself isn't expensive. Doing the labor is. Like I said, the truck runs fine, doesn't make any unusual noises (I do get piston slap in the morning which I mistakenly thought maybe was a stuck lifter, but that quickly goes away after it warms up, and is apparently a "problem" with these engines). I should also mention I checked the trans fluid and the coolant to see if possibly oil was getting mixed in, but it isn't. Those fluids are clean and look normal. No overheating either, or strange noises from the engine. Thoughts?
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Hi everyone- brand new to the forum. Thought I'd throw out a question about my 2008 Chevy Suburban LTZ sitting in the shop right now waiting on a replacement GM-cert refurb engine. Should be put in in the next several days. Truck has 165K miles. Started chewing oil back in 2012 at around 80K. Was in shop 3 times in 2013 with the usual AFM issues up until the 110K mile mark when the 3rd operation was done (I think it was replacement of all pistons). All-told, about $7250 of warranty work done to truck related to AFM. Soooooo, truck recently had misfiring on cylinder 5, low oil pressure warning, drop of pressure, left on side of road. Towed to dealership. Engine not holding pressure, needs new engine. I expect the engine to have 3 yrs/100K warranty. My question is this: Should I disable the AFM with the "Range AFM Disabler" (http://www.rangetechnology.com/products/range-v8) device on this 'new' engine to (likely) eliminate any potential issues, or should I trust the newer version of this engine that was ordered will behave and perform as desired. I am also a bit confused about posts discussing 'deleting' the AFM with "kits" or having to put different parts into the engine to turn AFM off, while getting normal, expected behavior from the engine. Thank you all for any feedback. Love this forum! John -
New here just made an account to ask a few questions but I'll stick around for a little while. I have a 12 Silverado 5.3 LC9 114xxx miles. I had cylinder 7 throw a misfire code pulled plug and it was oil fouled. I'm getting the notorious litter noise. I don't know exactly how much oil it is consuming but I would guess at least 2 qts every 2-2500 miles. I guess my question is should I even worry about the lifters going out with that much oil lost and the cyl 7 plug fouling out? Or should I just save my money and put toward a new engine? I don't mind pulling the heads and putting lifters in but if it needs pistons anyway I guess I'm thinking what's the point. -
Wondering if anyone has done a pcv delete and run a breather style setup on an l83/l86 engine? Seen it done on older ls stuff and guys talk about a much smoother idle. Recently had a cam swap done and looking to keep intake and valves clean lol.
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I have a 2011 Silverado with 125k miles, bought the truck with 90k and found out the problems with the active fuel management on these model trucks so I put a programmer in the truck to delete those hoping it would help make the engine last longer. It’s is now burning oil, has a puff of white smoke when it starts after sitting for more than 3-4 hours, and the fuel alcohol sensor acts up when it’s cold outside making the truck start rough and idle rough for about 30 seconds. Is anyone else having all these problems?
