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Showing results for tags 'no start'.
Found 20 results
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I couldn't find this anywhere in the forum, pardon if I missed it. I drive a 2016 Sierra Denali 1500 and I left my key in the ignition overnight. It was NOT in 'on' or 'acc', just left inserted into the ignition. I shut the truck off in the garage after getting home and got distracted by my kids, forgetting the key was still in. Next morning all it did was click when I turned the key, all lights still worked. Figured leaving it in all night killed the battery so I tried a jump (no go) then charged it with a battery charger. Even with a fully charged battery it still didn't start. Figured since the battery is 5 years old now I may have killed it off, so I bought a new battery and installed it...only to still have no start. I'm not getting any codes, so this one has left me scratching my head. Is there a security feature I'm not aware of? Could the starter have gone from trying to start it up so many times? Keep in mind I have not had any starting or battery issues. This only happened after leaving the key inserted in the ignition overnight. I also haven't installed any new lights, electronics, etc. -
Hi! So about 2 months ago my fuel pump went out. Had it replaced and right away we noticed sometimes it would crank but No start. After a few days the pump was defective, so replaced it again. Pump ran great with good pressure but after about a week or so, same issue crank but no start. Sprayed some starter in the manifold sometimes start, sometimes no. Turn key on/off to cycle and then sometimes start, sometimes no. Used the pressure valve behind the spider to bleed air/fuel then engine start fine. Would run fine for a couple days up to a week and then same thing all over again. Took it to local chevy. Diagnosed fuel pump, ... good to go they said, everything working properly. 2 days later No start and this time cannot get it to turn over, pressure is at zero. Pump is still turning on but not humming like it was. Replaced MAF and distributor cap as well as fuel filter. My local mechanic and I are stumped, and I'm already $1000 in on repairs. Please help! -
Just picked up my new 14 last Friday (5 days ago) and have had multiple occurrences where the truck will not start. The typical scenario has been like this: 1. Attempt remote start either by key fob or the OnStar remote link app. If using the key fob, the parking lights flash to indicate that the remote start request was received but the truck does not start. If using the OnStar app, I receive an error message that the truck could not be started. 2. Attempt to start the truck using the key and...click.click. 3. Get out of truck, throw something, say a few four letter words 4. Try again with the key and it magically starts. The new software was loaded in the truck as I was in the process of negotiation during the recall and had to wait for the update to come out before the dealer could deliver. I went straight to the dealer yesterday morning after this happened and they have no explanation to what the cause is. They reprogrammed the keys/fobs. I also was carrying my 2nd set of keys in the console, which they suggested could be the cause of the problem?? So I took the spare set of keys out of the truck and crossed my fingers. No such luck however as it happened again this morning. Anybody else experiencing anything like this?
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The “No Start / Long Crank” event is a known issue with GM vehicles equipped with the new 3.0 Duramax diesel. To date, there isn’t a confirmed fix for the issue. -
I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 2WD 4 door. Only cold air coming out the vents. So i pulled the glove boxes out so I could see the blend door actuator. I could see the clip wasn't connected to the actuator. So I connected to wire clip to ghe actuator, and was excited to see if maybe I had found my no heat issue. But, now my teuck won't crank. Turn the key, 1 click and nothing. Ive checked every fuse. All good. I even jumped the starter relay. The truck would turn over but wouldn't start. I'm clueless.
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2014 sierra 1500 5.3. Blend door actuator wasnt working. I pulled the glove boxes to look at actuator, noticed the wire clip wasn't even connected. Connected the wire clip to the actuator. Went to crank my truck, nothing. And now I have stabilitrac messages on my dash. And one about steering wheel assistant limited or something like that. I've checked all my fuses. They're good. Where do I start??
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2002 Silverado 200k I pulled the trans to replace the rear main seal and put the truck back together and now I get no response when I turn the key to start. For troubleshooting I have: Replaced the NSS, both of the NSS pigtails No start, dash is indicating gear, reverse lights activate. Pulled starter and had it tested it multiple times and its good If I connect a test lead to the solenoid it turns over but dies after a second. If I apply 12v to the purple/white wire and the orange wire in the NSS harness the starter relay clicks. If I connect those two wires together and jump the solenoid the truck starts and stays running.] 12v is good from battery to starter, ground is clear. NO 12v at the 12v solenoid wire at key turn. Assuming this is my issue is it a common thing for the ignition switch to go bad and cause this? Could i have broken the wire while working under the truck? Am I missing anything that I should be testing? -
I recently got a 2000 chevy s10 LS 4.3 v6 4wd that wont start it cranks no problem everything else works but the security light is always on it never flashes its solid i have tried the relearn procedure 10 times nothing i have scanned it for codes got none i have tried putting a ziptie tip in the passlock plug in and nothing i have found a forum that is having the same issue but they did the resistor and it didnt work for them i dont know what to do to fix it and get it to run i dont have the money and dont want to take it to the dealer so dont suggest that if you know how to fix it please let me know thank you. -
98 Sierra 1500 5.0 vortec 4x4 SLE ext cab 295xxx Ill try to keep this short, any help appreciated thx in advance. My front signal and head light started doing all sorts of weird things head lights flashing with 4 ways, left signal wouldn't work with head lights active. The interior lights where acting weird. Work sometimes. The cluster gage illumination would not turn off. And there was nothing to rear rail or third break lights. Also some funky noises coming from the combo light relay So I thought it was ignition harness, cluster,dimmer switch relay. All fuses where fine. But my cig lighter fuse keeps blowing. So I went to junk yard and grabs some parts. So I tested battery and all the grounds I could find and cleaned them. As a changed parts nothing changed. So I was checking the wire harnesses and found that on the wires that runs back to rear of bed on driver side frame was melted up in spot and arking against the frame. So I patched the wires. Now the truck wont start and no lights will work. If you press break peddle the signal light on cluster light up. But not actual signal lights and if u try to turn fan on it turns the signal lights on cluster on and as ur turn it up the lights get brighter and my interior light on driver side floor won't turn off. All fuses seem fine beside the cig fuse. I'm out of guesses. -
I have a 2006 4.3 V6 Silverado 1500 WT that as of yesterday will not start. The last time I drove the truck was about a week ago before I parked it at the house. Luckily, its in my driveway so I can work on it. I'm a little confused though on why its not starting. I have tested the fuel rail pressure and have 59lbs when the fuel pump is engaged and about 59-61lbs when I try to crank the engine. I've tested the spark on all 6 cylinders with an inline spark tester and have posted the video of the number 3 cylinder's test below. They all managed to light the plug up telling me I have some spark, but i dont know how much spark at the plugs. I then checked the high tension line by trying to get it to arc off a ground bolt. It was sending power as i managed to shock myself through rubber handle channel locks, but it wasnt creating a visable arc. I also pulled a few plugs and they all were dry but had a color to them as if they were burning normally. I also tried shooting some starting fluid directly into the throttle body during crank; that didnt give me anything either. I'm thinking I have a spark issue; but am confused as I have spark at the plugs. Perhaps its not enough? My battery is dead now from troubleshooting so i'll be waiting for a charger to come in tomorrow. Until then - any suggestions???
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I own a 1995 gmc sonoma and it left me sit earlier today. After working on it for awhile I discovered a few problems. The motor had no spark or fuel, I figured out the coil was bad and now it has spark and it starts on starting fluid but the tbi injectors aren't spraying. The fuel pump does prime but we aren't sure of how much pressure it's building. We put in new injectors and cleaned the entire throttle body and fuel is making it to the injectors but the injectors don't fire. Any ideas? Do the injectors require the 12 psi of fuel pressure in order to fire or is there another problem? -
Hello I have been working on my GNC for far too long now. It all started with the radiator and then the transmission finally leading up to the battery and or the park neutral safety switch. My current problem is I'm getting the no crank no start which has me assuming it's a parking neutral safety switch, I've been trying to line it up perfectly and get it on there onto the transmission without any success. I'm also experiencing very rapid draining of batteries. My last one was dead according to the AutoZone people, and when I use my friends to try and test and see if I can get some crank within a few twists turns it's gone from 12:00 to 10:00 volts. I guess you better explanation of that would be, I would put the battery in to test the current park neutral switch setup and configuration meaning just the slight tick of the thing that turns, and if I still experience no crank I would then you know shift back into park disconnect the battery and then try and you know mess with it again and then go back to the battery put it back on and you know retry that process but in doing cell is draining the batteries I don't know if it's normal or if there's something I messed up somewhere with the batteries cuz I did have to move the negative from where it was originally at to higher up so I had enough wire to compensate for the taller battery and that I was borrowing so yeah that's in a nutshell. If I could get any kind of feedback and I would be so grateful. I've been without my baby from like 2 months now and it's killing me. -
My son has a 95 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 5.7 Liter VIN K Truck. He noticed over the last couple of weeks he would need to continue to turn the key to get the truck to start. Last night he drove the truck, sat for about an hour truck would not turn over. Lights on the dash came on (but they where sort of dim) so we assumed the starter finally gave it up. We went to local parts store, bought a starter installed in the parking lot went to start the truck still nothing. We checked the battery with on ohm meter, check fuses everything seemed to be ok. I ended up jumping the connections on the started (Positive to the little wire on the starter). The truck started just fine. After we got home, i had my son turn the truck off and try to restart the truck, still nothing. The truck does start if we jump the starter. Does anyone have a fix for this? Or an idea? Any will be appreciated. -
Hey new here, I have a 07 NBS Silverado 4.8 4x4 that has a no Crank no start issue. Never had this issue usually starts right up. So drove to the gas station one night recent and Midway got a reduced engine power and died, would not start back up at all, had it towed and have been checking certain things battery, starter, fuses I've read alot on here and other sites. I figured maybe some insight to my case would be of help. I don't hear a click at all when trying to start it simply does nothing. I've tried a new battery , I've checked cables power and ground cables. Checked mega fuse and lightly checked relays kinda new to the checking relays other fuses I've checked for continuity and they check out fine. I've read about a security issue maybe but I don't have the indicator on my gauge. Anyways any insight is greatly appreciated , I miss this truck it's one string running engine and has got me and my family by for many years.
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2015 4.3 to 6.2 swap (l86)/8l90e issues
B M posted a topic in 2014-2019 Engine, Driveline, & Exhaust
Hi, first time posting on here, I hope I am not bringing up an issue that has been solved or brought up elsewhere. Here we go, I have a 2015 single cab swb 4x4 that came with a 4.3/6l80e, i have swapped this to a 2017 l86/ 8l90e. Truck was fully operational prior to swap no issues, upon completing the mechanical portion of the swap and starting the electrical checkout I have run into some issues. Truck will power up bcm/ gauge cluster with no issue/ lights but I have no ecm activation as fars fuel system coming on or engine rolling over. I am getting the following DTCs: 2535, U0100, 1029( low voltage from fuel system). I have reached out to 8+ different shops for assitance and offered to pay for their time but have not recieved a solution or either not enough experience with newer truck/ motor systems, if there is anyone that has any thoughts/ recommendations/ experience/ solutions on this would be great or a capable shop around north Texas, I am all ears, really excited to figure out what is going and get this on the road. Also everything is 100% factory parts other than texas speed cam and delete kit. -
Hi, first I need to say at everyone that I'm French and my English is bad ?. I have a chevrolet 1989 C3500 with a 7.4 engine. I drive on the highway when my truck stop like if I turn the key off. The two tank was full of gaz, I start and the engine crank so the gaz doesn't run to the throttle. Someone has the same problem in the past and can help me?
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I'll start by saying ive been searching this site for years. Great data base! Today is the first time ive needed My own thread, sadly. So, here goes after searching since 10pm lastnight across all platforms. Please accept my gratitude for even reading this post! ____________________________________________ 2003 GMC Sierra 1500HD - Quadrasteer SLE Ive been loosing fuel pumps back to back for the last 6+ months. They lose pressure and i start getting random missfire. Before putting in my fourth pump and lighting the fuse to number five. I decided to go after all the grounds on the truck clean them up and attmept to see if its a fator. I moved a 1/0 ground that is for a stereo i never even use. This 1/0 ground was to body and on its own top post. I moved it to frame -cause?? Maybe?? IDK. All grounds were done the same. Remove, clean rings and mounts to clean bear metals, dielectric greased well and remounted in factory locations. Two at alternator bracket Four at body mount below drivers door Checked single behind passenger side head to harness at intake, fine left alone. Didnt touch factory negative to block- (yet) Went to start truck to pull further into garage and close door as the GD mosquitos were coming in. Fuel pump started to cycle and all hell broke loose!!! Relay started buzzing LOUD could near feel the flutter. Never attempted to start it. Cycled it off to on and relay just flipped out no fuel cycle at all. Attempted to start - nothing- no attmept to crank at all. Removed frame to batt ground, no change. Died a little inside but didnt raid the liquor cabinet. Pulled starter relay and attmepted to get a crank, nothing.... Notations: The TB butterfly seams to be clamping down -loud- at key on. Headlight auto settings are doing a different pattern off at key off, come back on in a few moments, then turn off when the relay kills the full truck. However never paid attention to their normal operation just know they never binked off on berfore. Not sure if OBD port is dead. Tuner not turning on but it never did till truck was running before. Been using it as a code reader/monitor up till this point. So, as of this moment no codes read.. Any ideas? -
2007 suburban k2500. 6.0/4l80e. I have a click when cranked situation no start. Also, power locks cycle every time it’s cranked. If you hold the key in the crank position it’ll click every few seconds. With the key in the on position I’ve had multiple windows roll themselves down, locks cycle, all kinds of dash lights. So far I have replaced the battery, the starter, main power wire from fuse block to battery, starter power wire to battery, I’ve cut the end off the alternator power to battery cable and terminated all these wires with a different style battery clamp. I am bypassing the 175 amp megafuse. All 2 gauge wire. To my knowledge the oem battery cables are shit so I opted to make my own. On the ground side I’ve replaced the chassis ground to battery wire, the engine to battery ground wire, and I’ve added an engine to body ground wire to rule out the. Braided ground strap on the back of the drivers side cylinder head. No blown fuses, I’ve switched the starter relay with another of the same size, and nothing has changed this trucks condition. I’ve tried tilting the steering wheel to see if that would let the truck start and it didn’t. I’m waiting on an ignition switch to come to oreillys this evening. I’m completely lost. I removed the under hood fuse block and inspected it and didn’t see any corrosion on any connectors. I’ve heard there’s some intergrated relay in the fuse block that could be the issue but I have no idea. I just bought this truck knowing it needed a battery and brakes, drove it off a trailer and parked it and went to move it 3 days ago and got this by surprise.
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Hey guys, I'm new to this forum and new to owning my first chevy truck (with a small problem - hopefully!) and I wanted to post this here for some help/advice/guidance. I have done some research on this problem and only found one other post on the internet with this problem so it seems like a rare one! Unfortunately, the post I found died once the OP stopped responding. So here is the story and the problem:. As of yesterday, I am the new owner of my first Chevy truck! It's a: 1989 GMC Sierra 2500 with a TBI 350 It's completely stock and runs great! (while the EST Bypass wire is connected) No check engine light Got it for $500 There is a problem... The truck does not pass CA smog testing Smog Visual: Passed Smog Emissions/sniffer: Passed Smog Functional test: Failed The reason it failed (as printed on the smog failure report) is: Ignition timing is not readable. Also vehicle will not run when single wire tan/black connector is disconnected which is procedure for checking timing. This was my first attempt at resolving the problem: Started the engine and warmed it up Disconnected the tan/black EST bypass connector WHILE the engine was running and the engine went from idling smoothly to a idling rough. Using a timing light: I set the timing to 0 degrees. The engine then began to run smoothly! I reconnected the EST bypass connector. (This was done while the engine was still running - The engine continued to run smoothly.) I shut the engine off I started the engine and it ran perfectly fine. (I thought I had resolved the issue!) Just to double check: I shut the engine off then I disconnected the EST bypass connector again. I tried to start the engine Results: Engine cranks over but does not start After realizing the engine was not going to start: I reconnected the EST bypass connector. The engine took quite a bit of cranking before it started. Once started, it ran fine. Basically I am able to replicate the exact same same problem that the smog shop came across. Based on my research, the correct procedure to check the timing is: Warm up engine Shut off engine Disconnect EST bypass wire Start engine (Cannot get past this step...) Set timing to 0 Shut off engine Reconnect EST bypass wire I'm guessing this is the procedure the smog shop is trying to follow so seems I need to get this to work for them so the smog test passes. I hope this is enough details for everyone. Please let me know if you have any ideas guys. Thanks for the help in advance! -
2011 Chevy 2500 HD duramax. So this is an issue that had only happened a couple of times. And had only happened on the initial start after using autostart on colder days (low 30s). After starting the truck with the auto start, the truck will run for approx 2-4 minutes then stop. The truck will not start again with they key until you you have cycled the ignition a few times. So my guess is I’m losing fuel pressure but this only has happened, so far, when using auto start. If I use the key is used on the cold start there are no issues. And I haven’t experienced these issues at any other time. After the initial start. Anyone else experience the same issue? Cause?
