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Showing results for tags 'modification'.
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Only joined to spread the word. Like most of you I've been frustrated with the horrible interior lighting without easy fix. I also wasn't willing to have holes drilled in my trim pieces, or lose any functionality of my switches or courtesy lights. If that's of interest to you, I'll try to include screenshot of item since links die, and hopefully enough pictures to get you through so you don't have to spend multiple hours testing circuits to figure it out. The good news is the rear dome lights are so easy to do. Take the rear dome assembly down and take it apart. It's only held up with clips and a small pry tool to get it apart. Remove the 2 fresnel lenses out and put it back together. That's it. Probably 3X the usable light from the rear domes with a nice even spread. The front assembly is quite a bit harder. I'm not going to explain how to remove the assembly and take it apart, there's plenty of videos online. For this mod I ordered some neutral white 3/4inch clearance lights from Tecniq. They have a real nice pattern to them and plenty bright. I needed a way to power them so I used some mosfet trigger modules. Probably 10 bucks in parts if I didn't over order for another projects. I needed some diodes to prevent feedback and keep the bcm safe. I had some on hand. DONT FORGET THE DIODES. I removed the fresnel lenses from the front as well. I took everything apart and with a Drexel 'gently' made the leds fit roughly in the same position as the factory holes. It doesn't take much. I had to trim a bit from the bulbs as well. There's a tiny spot on the pcb board that produces 4 volts on either side corresponding to the lights. If your not comfortable soldering, it's pretty small. Next I routed the wires from the led through the holes directly behind them. I did have to cut some of the rubber out, but be careful not to take too much. Once the pcb was back in, I ran the wires towards the rear and again used the Drexel to make room on the back piece for them to come out. Then I wired them to the mosfet modules. You might have to knock the tiny led off of the module. It's a tiny power draw but these module are meant for 5 volts and we're working with 4V. Mosfet module Requires Vin, Gin, Vout, Gout, trigger, and trigger ground. I place the diodes in the the Vout. Make sure the orientation is correct. Module power out to led. Pigtailed Gin to trigger ground. And made some quick disconnect leads for the power in. I connected to power and ground directly to the wiring harness via t-taps. I know people have said you can mess up the bcm that way, but considering the leds only draw 40 mA @12V each I wasn't worried about it. Connected ground to number 5 pin on the grey harness. I'll have to apologize, I don't remember which wire I connected in the harness for power. It was late and I was very frustrated. I initially connected to number 14 but I lost some functionality. There was another wire that hade 12v power at all times and I hooked it up there. I believe it was pin number 10. Anyways I hope this helps. I know gm dropped the ball on these truck for interior lighting. Mine are so bright now I have zero issues. Have full view and it's bright enough to see everything. The lights up front don't shine at my eyes, and they light up the floor. I'm not even going to do the floor lamps now! 10/10 upgrade! P.S. I'm going to throw some pictures of the interior up here so you can see the bightness. Don't judge, she's a work truck! Lol ANMBEST 10PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 0-20KHz PWM Adjustment Electronic Switch Control Board Motor Speed Control Lamp Brightness Control https://a.co/d/19L4oGi https://www.ebay.com/itm/292380373219
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So I recently purchased a 2020 GMC Sierra and I have the jump seat configuration Id like to switch to the jump seat to a center console and I was wondering has anyone done that on a 2019 or a 2020 GM truck already? I feel this is a do-able modification to my vehicle but Im looking to see what I would need to do. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated. -
Hello, I have been helped by various posts on this forum for a long time but now joined mainly to ask some questions about upgrading my van. Here is the scenario; my dad purchased the 2000 Chevy Express Conversion Van new from a dealership back in 2001. We used it as a family vehicle for many years but as us 'kids' grew up and married off, the van was left unused. So I purchased it from my dad and have been fixing it up. Whoever did the conversion was an idiot. They took an Express 1500 and made it into a conversion van that weighs 6,800# empty. *The front doors are so heavy we had to reweld the hinges because the factory spot welds were peeling off. *The van had front DRUM brakes which we changed out for a set of Brembo slotted disk brakes. *Changed rear axle ratio from whatever stock was down to 3:73 *I upgraded the wheels from 15" to 17" and the tire size from 26" to 30.5" (yes the front tires rub sometimes, but it is 10X better in snow and rides better.). *I replaced the rear leaf springs with 3/4 ton leaf springs and coil-over heavy duty shocks. *Upgraded the full exhaust system from the manifolds back with 3" pipe and a high flow cat and Thrush muffler. *Replaced the engine after I was a dumbA$$ and never refilled the coolant with coolant after having to add water due to a leak and the block froze and cracked. The replacement engine was taken from a 1999 Chevy Suburban. *The transmission was replaced with a Monster Transmission brand 4L60-E rated up to 600hp and tuned for towing (quick firm shifts) and a heavy duty torque converter. *Replaced all ball-joints and steering bushings. *New "heavy duty" shocks for front suspension - which didn't change anything like I was hoping. Anyway, now I want to upgrade the front suspension because it is SO SOFT that the van struggles to ride flat if the road has any bumps in it. It is 2WD, so no front axle. 1: I want to upgrade the front and rear sway bars, can I just put 3/4-ton or 1-ton sway bars on it? Will they fit? 2: I want to upgrade the front springs and shocks with 3/4 ton springs and shocks. Is this possible? 2b: I would also be happy if anyone new of an air suspension or air-adjustable shocks that might work as well. I can't seem to find anything for front suspension for 2wd Chevy vans or trucks. Thanks for any help. -
I bought a 2017 Tahoe Z71 and found that my iPhone 7 couldn't use the wireless charging station in the center console. When it was time for a new cellphone I decided to get the new iPhone Xs so, among other things, I could use the wireless charger. Imagine my annoyance when I realized that the 2017 GM products wireless charging followed a different standard than the iPhone X QI standard for wireless and charging and I was still SOL. SO...being in Costco one day I found a wireless charging pad (2 pack). For a while I put the wireless pad on the center console and plugged it in to the inverter. This was annoying as it constantly slid off or the kids kicked the plug in the back seat. SO...I resolved to fix it; to replace the wireless charging guts of my GM product with the wireless charging guts of the working charger. This is the story of that replacement. 1) Figure out how to take apart the working wireless charging pad. Not too bad, remove the bottom rubber pad and remove screws and pry it apart. 2) Figure out how to get the bottom of the center console cover off. Much harder. Got special interior tools and pried again. It feels like you're going to break it. But if you start at the bottom; near the hinge, it goes easier and feels less like you'll break something 3) Remove wireless charging box from under console lid. Open the box and remove the guts. They're glued in. You won't be able to use the metal heat sink part, but will need the plastic box. It is wired in with a plug..so just remove the plug. 4) Remove the guts of the working wireless charging pad. 5) The next problem is that the wireless charging pad runs on 9 volts, while the car charging pad runs on, you guessed it, 12 volts. You need a little buck converter or power regulator to get the voltage where it belongs. If the electronics part is beyond you, contact me, I have a few extra I could part with. 6) Wire this all together, fit the parts into the box from the Tahoe, hot glue them into position, connect the power coming into the lid of the console and the concept if complete. But not the build. 7) There are some issues: 1) The new coil must fit VERY closely to the edge of the box. In fact it seems like it has to be pressed into the box. To accomplish this I cut a new top for the box and padded the coil so it was under pressure to contact the top of the box. 2) The rubber pad in the top of the console lid does not position the phone exactly right to get the most reliable charging. I recommend removing the rubber pad and reversing it (so the little reminder not to put metal on the charger is near the back of the console). 3) The coil has an orientation. I had it working flawlessly on the bench but when I installed it realized that I had the coil cross wise to the needed orientation; had to take it all apart and start again.
