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Found 14 results
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Okay, I hope all's well here and I can find someone who can help! I need information I can't seem to find. I am in a financial bind and need to replace the motor of my 07 Tahoe. It has thrown a piston through the interior of the block. I was trying to find out if there is a straight plug and play swap from another truck I might use. I just don't have $1500 for a proper 07 Tahoe motor. I can pull a motor in my area for around $400. Problem is there are no 07 Tahoes there, but have found many 5.3l Silverados and a few Older Yukons & Suburbans. All I keep getting is that I have to get vin J motors for it to be a straight swap. The heads of my 07 are fine with the exception of one push rod that I'm in the process of changing! Help! Anyone have any suggestions? -
I'm looking to do a full interior swap/update on my '99 silverado, don't know much about interior fabrication but i'm going to do what I have to in order to make it work. For now I plan on taking everything I can out of a part-out silverado from 2014 or newer and throwing it straight into my truck. If anybody has any tips or prior knowledge from a project of the same nature any help would be appreciated. From what I could find, not many people have documented this sort of thing on YouTube and the ones who have only show off the final product instead of the full process or steps they needed to take in order to get what I'm looking for.
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Hello! First I’d like to say that I’m new here and not sure if I’m in the correct place to be asking this or not, but I am in need of serious help with this engine... The truck is a 1999 LS silverado 1500 with a 5.3L vortec v8 lm7 in it. 265K miles. When I first got the truck this wasn’t an issue it just progressively got worse and worse until it just did it fully 24/7. I know this is a very common issue with these engines, but the symptoms I’ve been having are not the same as what Ive been seeing other people having. The truck started having a low oil pressure problem, where it would be fine when cold full around 25-30 psi, then as it warmed up / as I drove it, the pressure would slowly drop until 0psi, sometimes this wouldn’t happen till after driving 50+ miles, sometimes it would happen in 10 miles. Now after replacing the pump it does it in literally 1 mile. After it would drop to 0psi the lifter chatter/tap/knock (whatever you want to call it) would finally start up. I would stop the truck kill the engine then restart it. Most of the time after id restart the engine, the pressure would rebuild back up (lifter tap would go away) and I’d go for a mile or two, and then the whole process would just repeat itself. Make a long story a bit shorter... I ended up replacing the oil pump, with a mellings 295 pump, cleaned out as much gunk as I could, got the oil pan nice and squeaky clean... The truck did fine for a couple hundred miles, had really good oil pressure. it did lose all oil pressure entirely on my first test drive but it never had a lifter tap or made any noise when that happened I just pulled over killed it, started it back up and bam it had normal oil pressure.... After that happened, the truck did fine for a couple hundred miles, then out of nowhere it would just randomly start ticking even when it had OK oil pressure 15-25 psi. Prior to replacing the pump when the engine was cold it wouldn’t even build up oil pressure right after starting, usually took like 10 seconds + of it running for it too build pressure. And it would only build up to about 25psi and it stayed there even when warm. Now after the oil pump replacement, when the engine is cold the oil pressure will build immediately and be at around 60 psi, then as it warms up it slowly drops to 40, I’ll get out onto the road and as I barely make my way down the road, it slowly drops until it gets down towards 5-10psi and then the lifter tap will start up, doesn’t usually drop fully down to 0 like it did prior to the oil pump replacement. It usually atleast has a couple psi, but that ain’t enough obviously lol cause it’s ticking. When it does this, I have no choice but to pull over, kill the engine, start it back up, and it builds back a little bit of pressure. But it still has the lifter tap it doesn’t go away like it would before “sometimes”.... And it’s bad, I can definitely feel a power loss, also can notice a change in the way the engine sounds other than ticking, like a ****** in the timing or something? I know it’s NOT good and the ticking means there’s no oil getting to the head, so please save the lecture, please... I’m just at a loss as to why this would still be happening after replacing the pump? The pump doesn’t do what it did before I replaced it, which was, it would fail to build pressure after starting the truck when cold, that’s what made me think the pump was failing so I replaced it, and the new pump DID fix that issue... lol but that’s it... so I know it can’t be the pump right? I mean it’s literally brand new... I also tried to make sure the o ring wasn’t pinched when re-installing the pump... I really just need some good insight on this issue from someone that knows these engines well, this is killing me! This is my only vehicle I need to get this figured out ASAP. I did all the work myself, 23 year old guy, grew up working on bikes then transferred over into cars/trucks, not an expert by any means but I’m no dummy that’s forsure hahahah. Any help is appreciated! & The truck is a great truck, it’s an all around clean truck, the last owner definitely took care of it, so it’s not like it’s a big ass pos. Well kinda I guess lol..
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Hello, I’m thinking about putting a six inch lift from superlift on my 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd, extended cab. My question today is what would be the recommended wheel size (both tire and rim) for this setup and I’d like it to preferably stick out on the side a bit but it’s not needed. I know many run 35” but again I’m not sure.
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Hello all! It was suggested I start a build thread so here I am starting one! My truck is a 2016 Silverado Regular Cab with the 5.3L v8 and 6 speed automatic. It has the IOB 7" infotainment center with Apple Play/Android Auto, trailer hitch incorporated into the rear bumper, cruise control, 40/20/40 seats etc and although I originally thought it had 3:42 gears based on the standard items listed on the sticker I somehow missed that my option column shows that it actually has the 3:08 gears. The LT interior was a little too busy looking for me and had a bunch of stuff I didn't really need and about the only option the LS didn't have that I wished for is the steering wheel audio/phone controls but I think I can get by without those especially after finding out from the dealer the cost as well as what it would take to install. I had modifications in mind before even getting the truck such as lowering, tire/wheel upgrade, increasing performance/handling, upgrading to a competition level audio system (my hobby and side business) and of course plans to personalize it to my tastes. Here's what I have done so far and the more I read this forum the more I add to my list so future plans are below! Day 1 Before installing 2" drop shackles and removing spacer block (shows the chrome door handles I installed but did not like so they got changed quickly) After shackles installed/spacer block removed and color matched handles as well as mirror caps installed The gold Bowtie looked out of place to me so I color matched the front one using the rattle can custom mix kit you can get on eBay or Amazon along with Duplicolor primer/adhesion promoter I didn't like the look of the rear Bowtie at all even after color matching so I removed it and I also added the LS emblem to balance out the rear somewhat since now only the LT and LTZ trucks get those emblems for some reason. (I also plan to color match the tailgate handle) More coming in a few minutes!
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Hello, I will be doing an engine swap in my s-10 fairly soon. The specific truck I have is a 1992 s-10 ext. cab 2.5l 4-banger, with RWD and a 5 speed manual. What I am thinking for engine/ tranny is a Chevy 350 with a NV3500 transmission. It would be easier for me to find a 350 that already has a NV4500 married to it, but I have heard that it is difficult to fit a NV4500 in an s-10. I can't find any info for my exact model, so I'm asking if the combo of the 350/nv3500 will be a good fit. I won't be racing this truck, I just want more get-up and towing capacity. if you know of a better setup I am very open. also originally I was thinking of putting a 5.3 Vortec instead of the 5.7/350 but everyones been saying the 350 is easier. -
I'm trying to swap 4.3 2003 into 1998 4l60e its done on ls swaps all the time I think I need bellhousing flex plate torque converter adapter anyone chime in no negative Nancy's please
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Not sure if this is the place for this or not. But I will be documenting the ls swap journey of my dream truck. I found me a fairly clean rust free 1992 gmc 1500 2wd. Sourced a junkyard 5.3, and a 4l80e trans. I am using a bp automotive harness, hp tuners and a lot of luck. This is my first ls swap so critics please tell me what I am doing wrong.
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Okay so I’m engine swapping my 4.3 v6 2003 Silverado to a 5.3 V8. I have purchased the engine and transmission and I’ve been putting it together in my free time. Recently I purchased what I thought was a stock Ls engine harness. Turns out I drove 1 hour and something minutes to find out he was selling me a “Stand Alone Harness.” Since I was there already I decided to buy it. Don’t ask me why just know it came at a impressive cheap price and it included a complete intake, fuel rails, k&n intake, fuse box & all that good stuff. Now my question is, what would change if i was to use the stand alone harness on my swap ? Would it even work ? I don’t have much knowledge on stand alone harnesses just that they are used in hot rods, c10s, obs, ect... Any help would be great!
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