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So I was wondering what is the best quality lift for the money under $2000 for my 2018 silverado since i plan on buying it at the end of my lease and i always plan way tooooo far in advance for things like this. So here is my idea. I have dropstar 655bm 20X10 -25 offset on 33x12.5 toyo RTs on my truck leveled 2 inches at the moment but as soon as i fully purchase the truck i want to fit 37s. Although the 8 inch BDS and SuperLift say they can fit only 35s ive seen plenty of guys running 14 wide -72 offset on 35x15.5 tires on a 8 inch lift and fit so why cant i get a 37x12.5 on my 10 wide. So what lift would you guys go with in my situation. Im mainly looking at the mcgaughys 7-9, BDS 8inch, Superlift 8 inch. What one do yall think is gonna be my best bet. Thank You.
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SCROLL TO BOTTOM FOR MY FEEDBACK ON THE KIT I purchased the Eibach Pro Truck lift kit the other day so below is a quick how to on the process and some initial feedback I have on the kit. My truck has 75k miles and I knew before purchasing anything I had a blown rear shock. I wanted to lift my truck higher so instead of purchasing OEM equipment and adding more rough country spacers (already had a 2" lower up front), I saw the Eibach kit. It included everything to complete a reasonable 2.5" lift AND included new springs for less than $600. From my tuner days, Eibach was the go-to for lowering springs, I assume they know what they are doing plus they are American made, can't go wrong. The struts are adjustable like Bilsteins so this was the best option for achieving the lift I wanted. With the Eibach springs and the struts at their lowest setting, my truck would be 2.5" higher according to the instructions. Also, the rear shocks in the kit, safely handle a +1" lift in the rear. This is what I wanted! Since I was already touching every other suspension component, I figured I might as well add the 2" rear blocks I've been eyeing so I bought those direct from RC. Truck set up before project: 20" wheels, Falken AT3W 33" tires, RC 2" lower spacer with stock struts and shocks one of which is completely blown. The ride was sloppy, pulling into driveways or other major bumps my truck was rocking and rolling, signs my stock set up was done. I would wince before hitting large bumps on Chicago expressways knowing my cage was about to get rattle. The 20" wheels and heavier tires aren't helping but the dampers needed to be retired. Purchased parts: Eibach Pro Truck Lift kit: E80-23-006-02-22 Includes new springs, new monotube struts, and new monotube rear shocks. Also includes new king nuts for struts and bump stop collars for reusing OEM bump stop. https://eibach.com/us/i-8809-pro-truck-lift-system-stage-1.html Rough Country: 6532 (2" rear blocks) Includes new u-bolts, washers, nuts, and 2" tapered rear blocks No link, this is the rear blocks from their leveling kit, you have to order over the phone. Side note, RC folks are REALLY nice on the phone. If your are uncomfortable working on compressed springs do not attempt the strut disassembly yourself. Take them to a shop. I've done several spring projects in my life and understand how dangerous they can be. Be safe and take the necessary precautions and where the right PPE. If the compressors fail, they should fail in an open area, not in front of you. Prepare for the worst, hope for the best. I am not responsible for misuse of the below info. Important tools: Eye protection and hand protection Pneumatic gun Spring compressors pry bar jack and jack stands Sockets 10 mm and 15 mm all the way up to a deep 22 mm Wrenches 15 mm all the way up to 22 mm A friend, loved one, kid, someone to help. I did this work by myself and it took me probably 6 hours in total, would've been half that with a second set of hands. Before you do any suspension work, always take measurement from fender to ground or from fender to top of wheel. This gives you baseline measurements to calculate your final lifts. Rears (blocks and shocks): 1. Jack your car up on both sides. Put on jack stands. You want the rear axle to drop straight down. Only doing one side at a time will be an issue, I learned the hard way. 2. Doing one side of the truck at a time, remove the upper shock bolt (the nut is welded, just remove bolt) and the bottom bolt/nut. Shock should pop right out with some love. 3. Place a car jack under the differential. Remove the (4) 21 MM bolts on the factory u-bolts. Again only on one side at a time. 3. SLOWLY lower the rear differential to allow enough room to remove the stock blocks. Watch your brake lines, you have some play but not too much. 4. Before installing the new block, clean the alignment pin and hole on your truck. Mine had a lot of dirt and salt. A wire brush cleaned it right up. I also sprayed it down with WD40 for good measure. 5. Once the block is installed and lined up, slowly raise your diff back up. If your blocks are tapered make sure the taller side of the block is closer to the rear of the truck. Install the new u-bolts and torque the new 22 mm nuts down in an alternating pattern. Old block next to new blocks below. 6. Install the new rear shocks, start at the top then do the bottom. I had to compress the shocks about 1/2" to get the bottom bolt in. 7. Repeat on other side then your done. I took the truck for a quick test drive to test out everything. No shutter, no issues. Picture below of my old shocks next tot he new, one looks blown... Time for the fun part, the fronts! Fronts (struts and springs): 1. Unbolt the 3 nuts on the top of the strut. Easy access through the engine bay. You can remove these before the car is lifted without issue. Leave the outside nut hand tight to prevent your strut from dropping out. 2. Jack up one side of car and remove wheel. 3. Unbolt the sway bar end link, tie rod end, two bolts on bottom strut mount, and the upper control arm ball joint. The UCA will need a BFH (code for hammer) to help it out. Leave the nut finger tight so the UCA doesn't shoot out of knuckle right away. Some people say you can do this without removing the UCA but I just couldn't see how that could be done in my application. 4. If you're by yourself place a car jack under the knuckle, remove UCA ball joint nut and slowly lower front hub assembly, there should be plenty of room to remove the strut now. I used a jack stand to hold the hub assembly while I unscrewed the top nut on the strut and carefully remove it. Once the strut is out, loosely reattach the UCA to the hub so you can leave it for a while. 5. With a permanent marker, draw a line down the strut assembling marking everything. The line should be on the outside face of the strut assembly. This is your index line, when you transplant these pieces to your new strut they should all line up. If they don't you messed something up. 6. Now the dangerous stuff, install your McPherson spring compressors on the stock spring, try to grab coils that are far from each other as the spring will be easier to compress. Compressors should be 180 degrees from each other to ensure even loading. 7. Put on all your PPE, say a pray, and start tightening the spring compressors until you see a gap between spring and strut per mounts. Treat loaded springs like a gun, never point it at anyone and try not to drop it, jostle it, anything that could affect the compressors grip. Personal note, when I am doing dangerous stuff in my garage I either text someone letting them know what I am doing and text them after I am done or tell my wife if shes inside to check on me occasionally. 8. After you remove the king nut, open up the compressors, you can toss the springs. You will need to remove the upper assembly of the strut (top mount, bracket, spring boot, and bump stop). You will also need to remove the lower spring perch. Do this by gently tapping the perch towards the top of the strut to release it. PB blaster helps speed this up. 9. Prepare the Eibach struts. These are adjustable to dial in your final ride hide. In my application, when used with Eibach springs, the bottom level (lowest setting) will achieve a 2.5" lift up front. Snap ring was moved into the bottom grove and collar installed. The lower perch from OEM strut was installed. 10. There is a metal collar inside the yellow bump stop, pull this metal piece out and replace with the one supplied by Eibach. The shaft is bigger on Eibach struts so the collar needs to be upsized. 11. Dangerous part 2, install the compressors on your Eibach spring. Again try to grab coils that are far apart to ease the compression process. I believe the springs needed to be compressed 1/2" to fit on the strut. This was the most nerve wrecking part of this project. The compressors have seen better days. Those bends are pretty ugly. 12. Once compressed start lining up the strut, inside rubber boot, bracket, and top mount. Your line you drew earlier should all line up with the outside face of the strut. Make sure the bottom of the spring is fully seated on the perch plate. 13. Install top metal spacer/washer from OEM strut and new king nut provided by Eibach. Tighten down nut then your good to unload the springs. Once the springs compressors are removed the scary part for that strut is over. 14. Remove the nut on the UCA and reinstall your strut. Have at least one bottom strut mount bolt available so once you get the strut lined up, you can throw a bolt on the hole to keep things in place. 15. Reverse the beginning steps with the reassembly of the hub parts. You'll will need a pry bar braced on the spring to hold the UCA down firmly into the top of the hub so you can tighten the nut without the ball joint spinning. 16. Repeat on other side. 17. Take your truck for a quick test drive, if no noises or issues, take in for an alignment. 18. Take final measurements to confirm relatively even lift. Drivers side may be lower due to gas tank. Final thoughts on the upgrade: I am absolutely in love with the kit. I've been putting off replacing shocks for a while, so glad I finally did this project. Dare I say, Eibach MDFA? (Made Driving Fun Again...) Like I mentioned above, I was beginning to notice I was wincing before hitting big bumps because of how loosey-goosey my suspension had become since I bought it. The Eibach kit firmed up the ride noticeably. At slow speeds I do feel small bumps which is a given with monotubes, 20" wheels, and aggressive tires. At speed, the dampers turned those crazy earth shattering/dash destroying bumps on Chicago expressways into muffled bumps on the road. Also the dampers recover quickly. Driving into parking lots or steep driveways, my truck you to rock back and forth, now the truck rocks and correct quickly. No over correction. I would highly recommended this kit as an alternative to the Bilstein kit. If your looking to lift your truck, its hard to beat this package. Overall very happy with the kit and how it turned out. Excited to get some off road time this hunting season! I filmed the install and will be posting the video when its edited. Thanks! WF41- 116 replies
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Hello all, Recently I purchased a 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 Elevation. I’ve been debating on putting a lift or leveling kit on it since I bought it. I’m looking for bulkier but also clean look. Nothing crazy. Just beefy and aggressive. I don’t plan on doing much off reading. Any advice on which kit I should buy? What brand? I also am hoping to keep my wheels as they are super sick, but would like some beefier tires any advice on those as well? Thank you! -
Hi everyone, I've got a 1999 Silverado 2500, 4WD, and I'm looking to lift her up about 3" and level her out. I've done a ton of work to this truck already in various areas, but I have yet to mess with the suspension at all. Wanted to lift it for a while now, and shes past due for new ball joints/tie rod ends, all the fun front suspension work so I figured I'd knock out the lift and all that front end work simultaneously. Done some investigating, but both rough country and skyjackers websites seem to have no complete kits for my truck. Was wondering if anyone had any advice/recommendations on where to look for a complete bolt on lift kit. I was worried I'd have to piecemeal a kit together, but if I go that route I worry about missing crucial parts, for instance I don't know whether I would need new control arms, shocks, etc. I have a basic understanding of how the front suspension system works but any helpful input is more than welcome. Additionally, at what height of lift do you have to start worrying about stresses on the powertrain? Like is there a point where I need to rotate the rear dif upwards and tilt the powertrain down to reduce stress. TL/DR: Need help finding a complete lift kit or piecing one together, and I'm concerned about stresses to the engine and transmission from lift height. Thanks in advance, Erik
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I know there must already be a topic out there floating around about this but I figured I would ask. I am currently running a 2" RC level on a 2016 All-Terrain with the stock 20 "All-Terrain rims and have been looking at tires. I want a little more ground clearance on the truck too. I was hoping to run a 34" but then I am curious as how a leveled will look with a 34" tire. Does anyone have that or is running that? If so can you post a picture. Secondly if it won't fit I was thinking about throwing a 4" LIFT in and running a 34". Does anyone have any experience with that? Or running that setup? Any tips or information is helpful. Thank you in advance!
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While I wait on my supercharger kit from Magnuson (10-12 weeks!!) I want to do more things to my truck. Anybody here running a Fabtech 4" lift kit for Magneride? Im looking at this kit K1092 https://fabtechmotorsports.com/product/4-uniball-uca-system-w-magneride-k1092/ I am wanting a little more than my 2.5" level but dont want a 6" kit if I can help it. I want the best kit and understand BDS is it but it only comes in a 6" and dont really want that with my setup. I am running 285/55R22 tires on stock rims and will need spacers to run that kit. Thanks for the input.
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Hello guys. I know this has been asked a million and one times but I seem to be getting no where and the threads seem to turn into more arguing and debating then facts and resolutions. Please be nice as I have knowledge of mechanics but not modifications. I currently have a 2017 Silverado 1500 z71 with a 2.5 rough country lift level kit(RC is garbage I know). I’m looking to lift it 4” this summer. I will be doing it myself with my father in law as he is a master mechanic and I know my way around a truck. I would like to run 33’s with 20 inch rims. In your opinion is a 4” rancho or a 4” BDS the best route to go? I am avoiding RC for the angles and I want quality (you get what you pay for) and I do not want to have issues down the road if I can prevent them now with the extra $ although I am not a millionaire. So my questions are any experience with 4” BDS OR 4” Rancho and which is better and any issues? Any advice on a 4” lift with 33” tires and 20 inch rims?(how will it look?) Thank you all for your help as this is my first truck I am modifying ?? -(silver rims were dealership) -(black rims are after 2.5 level on it)
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