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Showing results for tags 'k2500'.
Found 12 results
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I was wondering if there is someone that can help me with this truck. It has a rebuilt s&j engine (5.7l 4 bolt main) that I have been fighting to get running well. It has had all new sensors put on it except one thing to note is I received a bad engine with a cracked block installed the first go around and it was ran for a day to work and then next day back to the mechanic so it may have affected the new o2 sensor put on the good engine but I'm not sure. Well this 2nd engine runs really rough when its cold out and the colder it is, the rougher it runs. It takes like 5 to 8 revolutions before it starts and it runs good for about 2 seconds then it just hits the floor, back firing and missing like crazy. Another thing it does is once in a while the volts will drop from 14 down to 10 like the alternator stops working for 1 second then it jumps right back up. I've tried 3 different alternators and nothing seems to change it. It's like something gets turned on for 1 second thats shorted to ground and then shuts right back off but I'm not sure what it could be or if it has anything to do with the other issue. I've put new plugs and wires, rebuilt throttle body with injectors, map sensor, distributor, spark control module, knock sensor with pigtail, ignition coil, fuel pump, both coolant sensors, egr valve and solenoid, iac valve with pigtail, ecm and 3 different alternators. It really lacks power when it is warmed up and its getting bad gas mileage compared to the original engine. I used a red devil river aldl cable and tuner pro rt to pull some data off of it but I need help figuring out why the blm is so low. Is it because of my o2 sensor or what could it be? What could be causing my voltage to drop off like that? I can't get it to drop voltage with the tuner pro connected either. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am new to this tuner pro data stuff. Thanks! truck2.xdl -
I have a 1999 K2500 regular cab with the 5.7 and 4L80E transmission, 285s for tires. I got 14mpg bringing it home, which was about 250 miles. I've been driving it around and I'm getting about 9-10mpg. I have read that an exhaust, cold air intake, and new 02 sensors. I plan on replacing all of the 02 sensors so I was wandering how many upstream and downstream sensors there? And is there any other ways to improve my fuel economy? Thanks
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I have an issue with my door locks. The switch on the door quit working. However the key fob still works. I bought a new switch didn't resolve issue. I checked the circuit breakers and they are fine however my cigarette lighter fuse blows the second I put a new fuse in. Any advise on where or what to check would be appreciated. -
Is it possible to fit a rear flip kit from a 94 Sierra c1500 onto a 94 k2500 Sierra? If not can someone tell me if ways I can lower my k2500! -
I have a 2000 k2500 classic, when I shut it off last night the wipers were vertical and I didn't think about that when starting it today with 6 inches of wet snow on it. Now the wipers won't park, they simply stop wherever they are when I shut the switch off, and they will only work on high. My switch was replaced less than 2 years ago and all of it's other functions still work. And my pulse board is also less than 2 years old so I'm not sure which it would be. Help? -
I just got my first GMC truck. It's this beautiful 1981 K2500 Sierra Grande. We bought it and picked it up for the buyer. I carefully drove it up on the trailer but my spotter didn't notice my aluminum transfer case didn't clear the trailer by about a half inch. Soon I heard a thud and my heart sunk. I backed up to discover a puddle of transmission fluid. We used a come along and got it loaded and the hole covered. Got it unloaded and pushed halfway into my driveway. I cleaned it up pretty good with brake wash and it looks like only the housing is damaged. The trucks heavy. I need to push it another 50 yards to it's new resting place all semi steep uphill. Can I drive it that 50 yards? What would happen? Please elaborate! Thanks! -
2007 suburban k2500. 6.0/4l80e. I have a click when cranked situation no start. Also, power locks cycle every time it’s cranked. If you hold the key in the crank position it’ll click every few seconds. With the key in the on position I’ve had multiple windows roll themselves down, locks cycle, all kinds of dash lights. So far I have replaced the battery, the starter, main power wire from fuse block to battery, starter power wire to battery, I’ve cut the end off the alternator power to battery cable and terminated all these wires with a different style battery clamp. I am bypassing the 175 amp megafuse. All 2 gauge wire. To my knowledge the oem battery cables are shit so I opted to make my own. On the ground side I’ve replaced the chassis ground to battery wire, the engine to battery ground wire, and I’ve added an engine to body ground wire to rule out the. Braided ground strap on the back of the drivers side cylinder head. No blown fuses, I’ve switched the starter relay with another of the same size, and nothing has changed this trucks condition. I’ve tried tilting the steering wheel to see if that would let the truck start and it didn’t. I’m waiting on an ignition switch to come to oreillys this evening. I’m completely lost. I removed the under hood fuse block and inspected it and didn’t see any corrosion on any connectors. I’ve heard there’s some intergrated relay in the fuse block that could be the issue but I have no idea. I just bought this truck knowing it needed a battery and brakes, drove it off a trailer and parked it and went to move it 3 days ago and got this by surprise.
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My 1999 GMC K2500 after I swapped the old steel wheels to 2003 Duramax aluminum wheels. HUGE difference!-
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- big block
- 7.4 vortec
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My 1999 GMC K2500 after I swapped the old steel wheels to 2003 Duramax aluminum wheels. HUGE difference! -
My 1999 GMC K2500 after I swapped the old steel wheels to 2003 Duramax aluminum wheels. HUGE difference! -
Just a beautiful picture of a mean monster! -
I'm afraid of the dark...
