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I recently purchased the 1988 GMC Sierra k1500 350 four-wheel drive extended cab long bed with 155.5 wheel span, I'm trying to find the engine transmission and transfer case codes to no luck the transmission gear shift says L123, can anyone help me as to figure out what I have
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Will a 1997 K1500 Instrument Cluster Work in a 1995 K1500?
Noah E posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
I purchased a 1995 Chevy K1500 Silverado 5.7 V8 350 Z71 as a project a couple months back. I noticed that the lights and a couple of the gauges don't work on the cluster. The Tach and Speedometer work, the odometer and temp. gauge don't. The rest I am unsure of. When I took the instrument cluster out, I noticed that it came out of a 97' C/K 1500 Truck. I've heard that the 95's were a switchover year and the only year that had the one specific cluster. My question is will the 97 cluster work if I got the parts to fix it, or will I need to go ahead and find one for the 95? My guess would be to find one that came off another 95 since it was a TBI engine and the 97's had the Vortec engines. I just want to be sure before I spend money on a whole cluster. Help will be appreciated! Thanks! -
4L60-E transmission whining only when vehicle is in motion. Mostly starts past 30mph. Transmission is off the Suburban now. Whining still present when input shaft is turned.
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- transmission
- 4l60e
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So I recently bought a 1992 k1500 with a small block 350 and the engine is from an older truck I believe, the whole wiring has been tampered with and the distributor doesn't get and power from the original plug in so someone before me hotwired the entire truck and the key only gives power to the dash and what not, just not the starter or solenoid if it has one? I'm completely new to all this and I was hoping it would be easy when I bought the truck but I'm only 17.
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Hello there! My 1993 Silverado K1500 is throwing code 59. From what I can find this indicates that the transmission fluid sensor circuit voltage is high, which would mean that the sensor is telling the computer that the fluid is too hot? If I clear the codes and start the truck cold, it immediately throws this code. So I know **for sure** that the transmission isn’t actually hot. My question is, how should I go about diagnosing this? Is the sensor external and is there a way I can test to be sure the wiring is right? Or is it internal and should just be replaced? Appreciate any pointers you can give me.
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Hello everyone. I have a fun issue. My 99 suburban decided to die on me recently. Was running alright. Went into my parents for maybe 30mins. Came back out it fired up and then died maybe a half second to second after. Never had the issue before. Today decided to attempt to diagnose. It has spark. Distributer looks good. Changed the fuel pump with assembly and fuel filter. Also changed the cam sensor and crankshaft sensor. Lastly changed the ignition switch due to sometimes it acting up and messing with my gauges and transmission. Checked the idle control valve motor. Seems to be working. Cleaned the gunk off of it and the throttle body. Checked all the relays. All working. All fuses are good. Attempting the security passcode reset now due to running out of options. The security light isnt showing. But not sure if this suburban has one. Spray starter fluid into intake and it will run for a second longer then dies out again. Not sure what's causing it. thinking maybe fuel pressure regulator. Any ideas?
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- 5.7 vortec
- suburban
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First time poster here. I'm not sure how to ask my question without going into a fair amount of detail. I have a 1994 k1500, i bought with a messed up trans and a '350 from a suburban' - note the quotation marks. I work at a dealership and our transmission guy is really good with these transmissions so I took it out and had him rebuilt it for me and he updated all the internals to the 2006+ mechanically but electronically its still a 1994. He tells me it's good for my eventual horsepower goals (600). Everything great and fine but this truck is a dog. Misfires alot has all sorts of issues with the engine, won't idle properly, Yada Yada. I decide to pull the engine. And before we take it apart we look at the casting numbers.... It's a 305... And the heads are for a 350... I was pretty unsure of what to do, however out of the blue I have an opportunity to buy whay should be a good 1998 350 vortec with ecm and full wiring harness for a great deal. There's enough there I have several options but my favorite, if it will work is use the ecm, the new engine and harness and plug it into my 1994 transmission. The question is, can I make it work. Will it run fine? What tuning might I need to do, or transmission modifications to make this work. I'm not opposed to swapping valve bodies and/or tcc solenoids to make this work, and from what I've read that's the biggest difference besides just obd1 to obd2
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Hey guys I'm having problem with my 1995 k1500. The radio/blower/windshield wipers/windows will not work at all....The hazard switch on my truck is broken off and missing....I was driving down the road and my hazards all of a sudden turned on and wouldn't shut off I tried pushing what was left of the button down to make them stop and nothing worked. once I got home I noticed my window would not roll up and my passenger wouldn't roll down. I had to disconnect the battery to get them to stop I ended up pulling the steering column apart and replaced the hazard button along with the turn signal switch. I plugged battery back in and still had no power to those items mentioned..hazards shut on and off though. I replaced my ignition switch and negative battery cable and still have no power to the mentioned items...any help would go a long way!!!
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- k1500
- k1500 350 vortec chevy
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'91 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 4X4 Z71 V8 Auto Regular Cab Long Bed Reman 4-Bolt Main 350 V8 New Radiator Many New Parts Runs Good 4X4 Works Fine Asking $2,500.00 - Located in Eastern Ohio - 43952
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Hey everyone, New to the forum but I've browsed before when trying to figure out some of the issues I've been having with my 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 5.7L 4WD. I bought the truck from my old neighbor because I needed something to tow my ski boat to the lake and back. I knew the truck was a little rough around the edges and needed some work but I was okay with that since I know how to work on cars and I only need to tow the boat about a mile round trip to/from the lake. The truck started and ran great after I bought it but it started having some odd issues. There's no communication between the scan tool and DLC. There's good power and ground to the DLC, the cigarette lighter fuse is not blown. Not sure if this is related to the rest of the problems but I think it's possible. The Check Engine Light does not illuminate when I cycle the key or turn on the vehicle. Intermittent battery drain. Since the truck was still starting and running just fine, I figured I would leave it be and I'd get around to fixing it eventually. It developed a fuel leak from the lines near the tank about 7-8 months ago and I didn't want to deal with it during the winter so I let the truck sit until the weather got nice and I was able to replace the whole fuel system from the tank to the motor (not the injection system). Before I replace the fuel system, I drove it around the local industrial park to try to run some fuel out of it and the following issues started. Truck stumbled, the Airbag light, Service 4WD light came on, but kept running. Now, the Airbag light, Service 4WD light come on every time I drive it (4WD seems to still work). Power/Heated seats inop Intermittent battery drain turned into a consistent battery drain. I put in a battery disconnect that I use every time I let the truck sit for more than a day. Power Locks inop I started to get pretty confused and started trying to find some kind of common ground or module that would explain all of these issues so I went ahead and did the fuel system work and it's back up and running again. I drove it again after the fuel system repair and even more things either stopped working or started acting weird. Radio and temperature/compass in the mirror work great at idle, but both turn off above 10-15MPH. Turn signal on/off speed varies from fast to slow and interior lights dim/brighten opposite of the turn signal turning on/off Wipers are slow/dont work at all Cruise control inop Dash/cluster lights inop Power windows slow up/down So tell me what you guys think. I'm thinking there has to be a bad ground somewhere. I'm going to go through the truck and replace/clean grounds from front to back and see what happens, although I know that G202 is behind the dash and may be a huge PITA to get to, is that accurate? Has anyone experienced something like this? Is there a module like the BCM that could be bad and bringing down the communication lines, causing the no DLC communication? Thanks in advance! Adam
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So I have a couple issues with my truck. 1997 k1500 silverado with roughly 280k on it. I bought it a couple years ago and the guy put a newish engine in it with 60k on it but it's always had hesitation to start. It would crank a few times before starting, sometimes I have to key off, wait a sec and try again to get it to go. I had the battery (800cca) tested, wires tested, alternator tested and replaced the starter, nothing. Had our mechanic at work look, said the timing was off by -2, and it starts a little better but it still does the thing. No OBD codes except for my exhaust leak. Anyone have any ideas? Second issue, my gauges are reading a bit off. My oil pressure reads high but will go down low if I let off the gas to coast, gas gauge is accurate to about 1/4 of a tank higher than it is, the whole cluster is dim but grows brighter repeatedly, voltage reads 15V or higher, and temp reads way overheating and scares the crap out of me even though I put a scanner on it and read the raw data from the new temp sensor I put in and it shows normal. I can find guides to repair 03 or newer clusters, but nothing about repairing older ones. My guess is all the steppers are shot at nearly 300k miles. I don't know why the dash is so dim though, I thought it might be voltage related. Anyone know about repairing those older clusters? Can I use the same steppers as the 03+ guides use?
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I have 96 with the 5.7 and it's been running lean for a while bank 1 and 2 and can not figure out what is causing it. I have changed maf sensor tps sensor new spark plugs there was a code for malfunction o2 sensor i replaced that and I also put some injector cleaner in the tank also changed fuel filter. The truk idles fine but when I put it in reverse and drive and im crawling/creeping along like backing out of the drive way its stuttering and running rough like its about to die/shut off and usually ill get on the gas a little and it will start running fine. It runs fine once I get going 10-20mph on up from there its just when I fire it up and get to rolling and foot is barely on the pedal. Also not even a week ago truck gauges would go to 0 and would get stuck in 3rd ended up being a ground on back of the engine. I do hear a small leak under the driver side could be exhaust manifold or where the flange is right under it where the pipe connects but I don't think it would cause it to run lean. Tomorrow i'm going to check fuel pressure, all I can think of is bad fuel pump, regulator, maybe intake manifold gasket even though I don't see any signs or even a bad ecm. Any help would be appreciated. Also should there be a little bit of oil in the air intake tube? its also in that vent that just pops in the side that comes from the top of the valve cover. its oily around the bottom too where it goes into the cover.
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From the album: random
led headlamps allowed a much less robust diode. This one is 10A, no heatsink. -
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- 1996 gmc sierra
- 1996
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