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Showing results for tags 'issues'.
Found 13 results
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I have a 2015 GMC 3500 that won't start without spraying ether. It will turn over, but unless we spray ether it won't start completely. Took it to Chevy, and they said they fixed it by fixing the fuel switch, and it continues. Plugged it in and no codes show up. Truck has 160,000 on it... HELP! ASAP. TIA. -
I am currently helping my father with his transmission rebuild for the 4l60e on a 2002 avalanche, he installed a transgo 4l60e sk shift improvement kit along with adding a corvette servo. he installed a cam on the 5.3 and the engine runs flawlessly and for the transmission he added a 3000 stall converter. the transmission will shift into reverse fine and will shift into second with using the manual shift, however the transmission will not shift into drive. the valve body has been checked over and over again and everything seems to be in place. Has anyone else had this issue or know what may cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Resized_20201118_130336.jpeg.msgGood morning, I am brand new to this so please bare with me. I have a 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT 4x4 with the 5.3 ltr V-8 flex fuel. I have purchased this truck in April of 2017 when I traded my 2011 silverado in. Since I have owned this truck I was lucky to buy certified as well as the certified warranty. The coil packs had to be replaced, The torque converter had to be replace it just seemed to have issue after issue now I am replacing the shocks and struts. The truck has 85000. miles on it so I figure its time. I argued over which shocks and struts to use I was thinking the Rancho because the are the same color as my truck red. not really I had read several reviews on the shocks and struts everyone I know has said to go with the Bilstein 5100 adjustable struts and the shocks. Well I purchased theses Bilsteins 5100's I had take my truck to a shop who does this on a daily bases the install the rear shocks and then started on the struts the passenger side went well and when they pulled the strut out of the box for the driver side it was broken. What I am learning is that Bilsteins customer service is garbage. I have had a new strut ordered and shipped in overnight so I can have my truck back. Bilstein says go back to who you bought it from. So why have a customer service I paid 488.00 for the shocks and struts and another 500.00 to have them installed and my truck aligned only to have to purchase another strut at 142.00 and pay overnight shipping from Auto Zone. Has anyone else experienced this Resized_20201118_130336.jpeg.msg Resized_20201118_130354.jpeg.msg Resized_20201118_130354.jpeg.msg Resized_20201118_130354.jpeg.msg -
Long time no see, today for my first oil change I brought up the fact that my truck sometimes shifts hard coming to a stop. Always the 2-1 shift. This was the response... the service advisor said “there is a lawsuit in the states”.. dunno if that’s true? Looking for opinions, will this ever go away?!
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TL;DR: I drove 2,941 miles from South Florida to Southern California in my brand new Sierra 1500 AT4 Duramax and pulled my 4,400lbs pound boat. I experienced no drivetrain issues other than running out of gas which was my own fault. I kep the rpms mostly at 1500-2100, averaged 12.6 mpg, consumed 11-12 gallons of DEF and had no cooling issues under the load and in the 118F heat of the Californian desert for the prolonged time I was driving. The trailering app and trailer tire TPMS system paid for itself and was a great tool for safety! DEF gauge may not be accurate to read when towing, rather go by the mileage warnings that display on the dash. Adaptive cruise control disengaged briefly but was able to re engage after turning the truck off and back on again. I am very satisfied with the performance I experienced and overall truck and have had no issues thus far with the drivetrain (6,054 miles on the clock). Hey y'all, I wanted to put some info out there about the trip I just made this week from Boca Raton, FL to San Diego, CA in my brand new 1500 AT4 Diesel to include performance numbers, issues I encountered, good, bad, and otherwise. I was a little on edge seeing as I did a decent amount of research on the new duramax before I bought it in July and there are definitely some issues out there that are yet to be addressed, however I had to move for my new job so here goes. Google Maps put the trip at 2,611 miles (4,202km) from my parents driveway to my new place but my trip clock read 2,941 miles (4,733km) due to stopping in to see some family along the way. I had 3,110 miles (4,989km) on the clock before I left. Note that my backseat was full of boxes and my bed was mostly empty except a weatherproof toolbox because I don't have a tonneau cover yet and did not want my items exposed to the elements or sticky fingers for the five days I was on the road. I was also towing my boat which is a 20 foot center console on a tandem axle trailer with dual axle hydraulic surge brakes. The boat and trailer combo weighs 4,400lbs (1995 kg) as indicated by the weigh scale I stopped at in California and my WeighSafe drop hitch with tongue scale. I spent the overwhelming majority of my time at ~1500 rpm while on cruise control at 67-mph but would jump to ~2100 when gradually accelerating. I left on Sunday afternoon and drove 225 miles (362km) to Daytona Beach, FL mostly uneventful despite my DEF warning popping up saying I had a 1000 mile range. On Monday, I drove 514 miles (827km) uneventfully seeing some family and friends in the Panhandle of Florida. The only eventful part of this leg of the journey was the DEF message popping up in the morning saying I had a 300 mile range approximately 150 miles after the 1000 mile warning and a speed limited soon message shortly after the 300 mile message. I figured I would use more DEF while towing but I hadn't put much thought into exactly how much I would use while planning my trip. I will talk more about DEF later. Tuesday I drove 537 miles (864km) from Milton, FL to Houston, TX uneventfully. Somewhere around San Antonio, TX I got a message that adaptive cruise control has disengaged. I was able to switch to regular cruise control but still don't know why that happened. I was able to re engage adaptive cruise control later in the day after I turned off the truck at a fuel station. Any thoughts would be appreciated here if you have experienced something similar. Wednesday is where the fun started. About halfway between Houston and Fort Stockton (508 miles, 817km) I got a low trailer tire pressure message on my dash. My truck came with 4 trailer tpms sensors I had installed into 4 new tires on the trailer about a week before I left because I figured why not. the tires are filled to 50psi as per the sticker on the trailer and the message showed front right had 35 psi. I figured all was fine and it was an error message as I had already driven over 1000 miles with no issues but I decided to stop and check at the next exit as I noticed the pressure was steadily declining. I pulled off at a Love's and went to check and could hear the air coming out but couldn't see a nail or feel the air. Regardless (after re parking in the shade at 102F outside), I took the tire off and lo and behold found a 3 inch nail in the tread near the edge of the tire. Within 15 minutes I had it plugged, refilled, reinstalled, and ready to go. That right there ladies and gentlemen justified the $85 I paid to install the sensors. Had I not known of the diminishing air pressure I surely would've had a blowout at the most inconvenient location and had to put a spare on in the heat. So that sold me on the trailer tire TPMS system, cost to install already paid for itself by saving me from having to buy a replacement tire. On Thursday, the plan was to go from Fort Stockton, TX to Tucson, AZ (558 miles, 898km). I was about 30 miles away from my next planned fuel stop when my fuel level low light came on but I didn't think anything of it as I would be stopping about 20 miles before I ran out of fuel. When I pulled off at the only fuel station in the area (Akela, NM) which GasBuddy showed had diesel, I discovered much to my dismay that the station did not have a diesel pump. I knew I was probably screwed but didn't really have a choice but to shoot for Deming, NM which was 24 miles down the road. My fuel level read low so I reduced speed to improve economy and hoped for the best. Worst case scenario I run out of fuel much closer to an actual city which would reduce the time it took for a fuel delivery service to reach me. 5 miles out of Akela, a car flags me down and says something blew off my boat so I pulled over and saw that my bimini top had blown off. I figured my best course of action was to drop the boat on the side of the road and turn back and try to find it. because there was no way I'd make it to Deming after turning around with the boat. Anyways, I had to go back about 3 miles to get the bimini from the middle of the road before going back. I decided to leave the boat, get fuel, and come back for it. The boat has a tracker so I could ensure it didn't get stolen plus i had 2 tongue locks on it. I made it about 12 miles before I heard a sound from the engine that sounded like i hit debris on the road, a message popping up that said speed limited, pulled over and kept the engine idling while I inspected the truck for damage and could see none. I turned off the truck to restart it and try to get back on the highway but it wouldn't crank. I called roadside assistance from the myGMC app and a guy called me to confirm that I needed diesel and was out to me from Deming in about 20 minutes. Fueled up, started, but had a check engine light so I brought it to the Chevy dealer in Deming to get checked out and ensure there was nothing seriously wrong other than running out of fuel. It was just some computer errors from running out of fuel, had them cleared, and left for no charge. Filled my tank at the nearest fuel station, turned around got my boat, and continued on my way after a 3 hour delay and made it to Tucson just in time for happy hour! Friday, I finished my trip to San Diego about 407 miles (655km) uneventfully despite temperatures reaching 118F outside. I was monitoring engine temp which was regulating well between 190 and 205 and tranny temp which kept between 185 and 203 depending on the grade. No issues at all with cooling or performance. Honestly the torque was really impressive on the 6% grade that stretched about 35 miles up and down. By the time it was all said and done, i averaged 12.6mpg for the entire trip although I was getting about 14-16 after I had the bimini top stowed in the bed on the truck reducing the drag of the boat. I had to put in about 11-12 gallons of DEF throughout the trip to top off my tank at the end. I found that the DEF gauge was not displaying accurate levels because when it displayed red Low and no bars it took 4 gallons before overflowing despite the tank being about 5 gallons. The range of the DEF was not linear. It showed 300 mile range at 5 bars but dropped to red and low almost immediately after reaching that point. I learned to go by mile range not necessary gauge level and just fill up at the 300 mile range message. I am satisfied with the fuel economy i saw and was very satisfied with the performance and power available when needed thanks to the diesel. Overall very satisfied with the performance of this truck as I have had no issues with the drivetrain (knock on wood). Feel free to ask me specific questions and I will answer them as soon as I see them! -
Can any one help me find this issue. On my 08 Silverado 1500 Vortec Max I can drive normally find no issues no lights etc. Sometimes though I can either be going over a small bump going around 10-20 mph and then it clunks and then goes into neutral. The 2 other ways it happens is when I make a turn and give it some gas to speed up it revs up and clunks and then goes into neutral and the 3rd way can be in 1st gear and then putting a decent amount of gas on it and then it does it again. It acts like its in neutral when its in drive and if I stop it just makes a bunch of noise and I can step on the gas and no movement.It sometimes will just go back into drive but other times I have to put it in reverse wait a second until it clunks back into drive and then its perfectly fine like nothing happened. The problem doesn't occur often but when it does it happens a few times more that day. I was thinking it might be a solenoid.
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Ok so I have a 2000 gmc jimmy 4x4 and the dome lights and footwell lights and also the 4x4 doesn’t work at all and when I bought the truck from my dad he said the last owner melted some of the wiring harness and I was wondering where should I start to fix this problem. Should I go straight to pulling the dash and fixing it that way or what do y’all think
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Hello, I have been helped by various posts on this forum for a long time but now joined mainly to ask some questions about upgrading my van. Here is the scenario; my dad purchased the 2000 Chevy Express Conversion Van new from a dealership back in 2001. We used it as a family vehicle for many years but as us 'kids' grew up and married off, the van was left unused. So I purchased it from my dad and have been fixing it up. Whoever did the conversion was an idiot. They took an Express 1500 and made it into a conversion van that weighs 6,800# empty. *The front doors are so heavy we had to reweld the hinges because the factory spot welds were peeling off. *The van had front DRUM brakes which we changed out for a set of Brembo slotted disk brakes. *Changed rear axle ratio from whatever stock was down to 3:73 *I upgraded the wheels from 15" to 17" and the tire size from 26" to 30.5" (yes the front tires rub sometimes, but it is 10X better in snow and rides better.). *I replaced the rear leaf springs with 3/4 ton leaf springs and coil-over heavy duty shocks. *Upgraded the full exhaust system from the manifolds back with 3" pipe and a high flow cat and Thrush muffler. *Replaced the engine after I was a dumbA$$ and never refilled the coolant with coolant after having to add water due to a leak and the block froze and cracked. The replacement engine was taken from a 1999 Chevy Suburban. *The transmission was replaced with a Monster Transmission brand 4L60-E rated up to 600hp and tuned for towing (quick firm shifts) and a heavy duty torque converter. *Replaced all ball-joints and steering bushings. *New "heavy duty" shocks for front suspension - which didn't change anything like I was hoping. Anyway, now I want to upgrade the front suspension because it is SO SOFT that the van struggles to ride flat if the road has any bumps in it. It is 2WD, so no front axle. 1: I want to upgrade the front and rear sway bars, can I just put 3/4-ton or 1-ton sway bars on it? Will they fit? 2: I want to upgrade the front springs and shocks with 3/4 ton springs and shocks. Is this possible? 2b: I would also be happy if anyone new of an air suspension or air-adjustable shocks that might work as well. I can't seem to find anything for front suspension for 2wd Chevy vans or trucks. Thanks for any help. -
Hello, I was thinking of purchasing a 2016 Yukon Denali, but after reading a few forums on here it seems like there have been a few issues with the 2015 model ( buffering noise and vibration). Have these problems been sorted out by GM in the 2016 model? If not is the problem big enough to avoid purchasing a Yukon Denali? Thanks
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2016 Chevy Silverado e assist issues ? ¿
Shawnslife posted a topic in 2014 - 2019 Silverado & Sierra
Hey there I am a proud owner of a 2016 Chevrolet Silverado. The issues I wanted to discuss is the new technology in the truck. What I'm referring to is the E assist system. Only 500 of these were released in California, I own one and love my truck but I believe this system is making the truck drive weird. I'm not sure if it's because it's trying to improve fuel economy or just faulty but when I am coming to a stop I can feel a clunk almost like I was rear ended, I can also feel it when taking off and it's annoying. I wanted to see if any of you have had similar problems in your truck and any advise you had or your experience. I brought this issue to the dealer twice and both times they found issues but none with the e assist system or transmission they claim. I have posted a link to a video of what happened on my last experience to my local dealer. Thanks for any help. -
Hi, new member here! I've read a lot of helpful posts on this site and decided to join. It appears that by means of motor vehicles, some force in the cosmos is hell-bent on driving me insane, as every ridiculously simple process must be infinitely difficult and dreadful. Today's ridiculousness involves programing a key fob in my 2006 Silverado Z71 4x4. I've had the truck a couple weeks and it came with no key fobs. I decided to buy 2 from Amazon after noticing the truck has the AU0 RPO code, as well as power unlocks/windows, and no key cylinder on the passenger door. I've read the process online, watched youtube videos, yet when I try I am unsuccessful, and can't find anything related to the issue I am having. So here's the process: -key out, door open, sitting in driver seat- -shut door, insert key. Push and hold unlock, turn on-off-on-off (I've also tried on-acc-on-acc per some advice from another post on this forum). The moment the key passes the "ACC" point on the ignition cylinder the 2nd time, the doors locks cycle, and I release my finger from the unlock (exactly the same as every video I've seen on YouTube". The issue is, about 2-3 seconds after the door locks cycle and I've released my finger from the unlock button, the door locks will automatically cycle a 2nd time, and the horn will beep once. No matter how long I hold the lock and unlock button on the remotes, there is no response from the truck and the fobs will not work. Interestingly enough, no matter how carefully I perform the sequence or even if I'm trying to botch it, I get the exact same results. The door locks will cycle normally, then 2-3 seconds later cycle again and beep. This happens whether the driver door is open, or shut, or even if I have the truck on before starting the process. If I press the unlock-lock in the truck a million times after I release my finger, or if I just keep holding, no matter how many times I've tried releasing the unlock at different times, if I pour gasoline all over the driver door and set it on fire, drive it into the lake and perform it underwater holding my breath, it doesn't matter and I get the same response from the truck. No check engine lights, no security light issues, no abs lights, nothing else at all that suggests there's any wiring issues with the truck, everything works as it should. I have found one other post on the entire interwebz with someone having the same issue of the door locks cycling a 2nd time and the beep, but no helpful responses or solutions. So, has anyone ran into this issue before or have any advice? I'll be posting a video on youtube and adding the link later. Picture of RPO sticker attached. Thanks!
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Hello! I have a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 and recently took it into the shop as I was having windshield wiper issues and air vent issues for heat and A/C. Both of which are kind of a big deal especially being December and never knowing what the weather will be.The windshield wipers currently only work on the highest speed, sometimes they will stutter very slow on other speeds, but usually won't work at all on anything other than the highest speed. The shop I went to told me it was the wiper motor and it was weak. Then, I have also been having issues with the air vents not always working. I never know what I am going to get with this when I start the truck up. Sometimes I will start it and get absolutely nothing out of the vents on any speed I put the heat or A/C at. Sometimes they work as they should on any of the speeds I set it at. I've been on trips where I start the truck up and don't get anything.. then hours/miles later air starts blowing out of them on the speed setting they're on. Or trips where I don't get any air to blow out of them at all. I have tried reading as much as I can on this and have been told it could be the vents sticking and not opening up as they should. I was told by the shop that the blower motor is not working and there's bearing tension inside the motor that seizes up in colder temperatures. Well, this vent issue has happened to me in both the dead of summer and the coldest part of winter where it won't blow the heat or the A/C. So I am not completely convinced that it's the bearings getting cold and seizing up. Either way, I am stuck on both of these issues and have a hard time wrapping my head around it being both motors (wiper and blower vent) going out at similar times when the truck is only 5 years old. Just wanted to get some input on what others have experienced on either or both issues. Thanks! -
Problem Description: Headlights turns-On and sometimes does not w/ DRL Headlights turns-Off while driving and then comes back On Headlight does not turn-On at initial startup and then turns-On while driving All other lights are functional, Tail Lights Brake light and Reverse are Ok All Turn Signals w/ Hazards are Ok Fog lights (Morimoto XB LED's) are Ok Action: Taken to a reputable shop to troubleshoot; of course the lights were functional the entire time during the visit; issue re-occured later during that day on my way home from work. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
