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Showing results for tags 'interior'.
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Hello! 21 RST, just bought a seat set from a 21 LTZ. I read on here about the WAMS programming and was able to get my hands on a cheap set! Well, now they are en route to me and WAMS is unable to do them now. Has anyone else been able to get the programming done? Thanks!! -
Only joined to spread the word. Like most of you I've been frustrated with the horrible interior lighting without easy fix. I also wasn't willing to have holes drilled in my trim pieces, or lose any functionality of my switches or courtesy lights. If that's of interest to you, I'll try to include screenshot of item since links die, and hopefully enough pictures to get you through so you don't have to spend multiple hours testing circuits to figure it out. The good news is the rear dome lights are so easy to do. Take the rear dome assembly down and take it apart. It's only held up with clips and a small pry tool to get it apart. Remove the 2 fresnel lenses out and put it back together. That's it. Probably 3X the usable light from the rear domes with a nice even spread. The front assembly is quite a bit harder. I'm not going to explain how to remove the assembly and take it apart, there's plenty of videos online. For this mod I ordered some neutral white 3/4inch clearance lights from Tecniq. They have a real nice pattern to them and plenty bright. I needed a way to power them so I used some mosfet trigger modules. Probably 10 bucks in parts if I didn't over order for another projects. I needed some diodes to prevent feedback and keep the bcm safe. I had some on hand. DONT FORGET THE DIODES. I removed the fresnel lenses from the front as well. I took everything apart and with a Drexel 'gently' made the leds fit roughly in the same position as the factory holes. It doesn't take much. I had to trim a bit from the bulbs as well. There's a tiny spot on the pcb board that produces 4 volts on either side corresponding to the lights. If your not comfortable soldering, it's pretty small. Next I routed the wires from the led through the holes directly behind them. I did have to cut some of the rubber out, but be careful not to take too much. Once the pcb was back in, I ran the wires towards the rear and again used the Drexel to make room on the back piece for them to come out. Then I wired them to the mosfet modules. You might have to knock the tiny led off of the module. It's a tiny power draw but these module are meant for 5 volts and we're working with 4V. Mosfet module Requires Vin, Gin, Vout, Gout, trigger, and trigger ground. I place the diodes in the the Vout. Make sure the orientation is correct. Module power out to led. Pigtailed Gin to trigger ground. And made some quick disconnect leads for the power in. I connected to power and ground directly to the wiring harness via t-taps. I know people have said you can mess up the bcm that way, but considering the leds only draw 40 mA @12V each I wasn't worried about it. Connected ground to number 5 pin on the grey harness. I'll have to apologize, I don't remember which wire I connected in the harness for power. It was late and I was very frustrated. I initially connected to number 14 but I lost some functionality. There was another wire that hade 12v power at all times and I hooked it up there. I believe it was pin number 10. Anyways I hope this helps. I know gm dropped the ball on these truck for interior lighting. Mine are so bright now I have zero issues. Have full view and it's bright enough to see everything. The lights up front don't shine at my eyes, and they light up the floor. I'm not even going to do the floor lamps now! 10/10 upgrade! P.S. I'm going to throw some pictures of the interior up here so you can see the bightness. Don't judge, she's a work truck! Lol ANMBEST 10PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 0-20KHz PWM Adjustment Electronic Switch Control Board Motor Speed Control Lamp Brightness Control https://a.co/d/19L4oGi https://www.ebay.com/itm/292380373219
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I bought a 2023 new body style Silverado 1500 LT the only issue im having is that the passenger seat isn’t electric its a manual, has anyone done the swap from manual to electric ? if so how complicated is it -
Seen this driving the other day. Interior looks like an Escalade but rear end makes me think otherwise couldn’t get a look at the front. https://imgur.com/a/n7lLtJC IMG_2143.MOV -
I'm looking to do a full interior swap/update on my '99 silverado, don't know much about interior fabrication but i'm going to do what I have to in order to make it work. For now I plan on taking everything I can out of a part-out silverado from 2014 or newer and throwing it straight into my truck. If anybody has any tips or prior knowledge from a project of the same nature any help would be appreciated. From what I could find, not many people have documented this sort of thing on YouTube and the ones who have only show off the final product instead of the full process or steps they needed to take in order to get what I'm looking for.
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Picked up my Custom Trail Boss yesterday and I really like the truck, mechanically speaking. My biggest beef is with the interior storage options. Specifically the fact the center console doesn't have a storage compartment even though the thing is huge and the owner's manual shows there should be a storage compartment. There's not a storage compartment under the seatback either, despite what appears to be a HUGE empty cushion sitting there. I have a Z71 Suburban, so I know I'm spoiled but this is crazy how few places there are to store stuff in the cab. I'm hoping a better center console can be swapped out, but I'm worried about what options may exist with the rear seat power and air vents. Let me know if anyone comes across anything that can be added or modified to increase the utility for the front seat passengers. Thanks!- 401 replies
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I keep hearing an interior rear cabin rattle noise when hitting bumps or rough roads. Sounds like it is coming from the interior rear cabin wall were the rear mirror is located. Has anyone experienced this issue? The second rattle noise is coming from the driver side seat belt pillar or door. The rattle noise almost sounds like plastic hitting plastic. Any ideas or has anyone experienced this? -
Have 4 - 300 watt light bars on my roof rack and 4 - 103 watt cree’s on the winch mount. Decided to run all the wiring to a central location vs mix and match I did over time. So purchased a 6 rocker switch panel with 3 12V outlets, double row. Went back-and-forth a week trying to think in my head where I wanted to mount it to make it easily accessible, as I live in the mountains and when oncoming traffic is coming I need to be able to shut them off immediately! I knew overhead was the best place but didn’t want to go through the trouble. However now that it’s done it really wasn’t that much of an issue at all. I cut the sunglass holder 3/4 of the way out and it only over fills the entire consul by about a 1/4 inch. If I hadn’t already bought this panel and knew today was the only day I could do the project for a few weeks, I would have waited and not used the 3 outlets and just went with a single row panel of 6 (8 best) rocker switches as that would’ve been very neat, clean and looked much more custom! For anyone looking to do it, the absolute best looking would be 8 rocker switches on a single row panel for an absolute perfect fit! But I was impatient and wasn’t going to toss $50 out the door for the panel I had so wound up force fitting into the console. This doesn’t look horrible and I think I’ll be able to live with it but if it gets the best of me and my OCD, I can always order a new console with the 8 switches as the wiring is already there and would be a simple project. Any questions feel free to ask! I’ll post pictures shortly. -
I'm looking to replace the driver's seat base (frame) in 3500HD WT with one that is height adjustable. The OE base is manually adjustable fore and aft, and for seat back inclination. My wife can't see over the long hood. I don't want to go with the riser rails available on Ebay as those would elevate me too high. So basically I'm looking for someone that has a 3 way adjustable manual seatbase on their truck to contact me so I can get the right part, the first time. If your manual seat has fore and aft, seat back inclination, as well as vertical height, send me a PM so we can discuss off thread. Thanks in advance. Slim -
I have a set of OEM front and rear all weather floor mats for sale. Part number: 84521602 photo is of the rear mats, can’t upload both photos because of the size but the front are in same condition. Lightly used, had them in my personal vehicle for about 6 months. New they’re $150, asking for $65+ Shipping. Will send with USPS.
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Looking to buy some interior wood trim. Let me know if you have any for sale.
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So I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 Extended Cab Texas Edition. I've had the truck going on 8 years now, but the trim has started to get loose. I've replaced body clips but some of the plastic has begun to break. I've searched junk yards, and auto lots with no luck to replacement. I tried GMdirect for the trim but still unable to find interior trim for this truck. It shakes and rattles over bumps like crazy, back door trim fell off. I've used foam to help quiet the rattling but if the trim doesn't stay on, there's no point. Might be from the back doors rattling (cannot figure that out either). Does anyone have a website link other than GMdirect for where I can find the interior trim replacement? Thank you! -
I've searched the forums and did not see this in any posts, forgive me in advance if there's a thread that I didn't see. Does anyone else feel a bit let down about the console vault knob sticking up and not allowing the rubber insert to lie flat? Is there a fix or trick that I missed? I would expect Ford to design something annoying like that but GM? "C'mon man!"
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Hello all.. My name is matt. I was checking into replacing my 2014 2500hd ltz seats with newer ones and was told the 1500 seats will not work in a 2500 or 3500. I am not referring to the trim package or feature. Obviously I am looking for the features i have already just want newer leather. Does anyone know what's the difference in the seat ? Or know if they will work? Thank you Matt
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I have a 2000 silverado z71,with bucket seats,and I seem to be having a hard time locating a replacement center console lid. Everything i search i get the lid for bench seat trucks..Oh and also I can't seem to locate the metal tabs that hold on the dash bezel.anyone know where I can get these things?
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I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive and Media Services. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access. Here's the obligatory "After" photo showing our new gauge cluster! With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it. This "How To" is a work in progress I just wanted to get it out the before it's fully complete for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off. I plan to do this entire process again in the near future so I can create a video showing this process and take additional photographs to fill in what I missed the first time. LAST UPDATE: Feb 21st, 2020 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools needed 7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior! We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example. Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards. Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work The Steps Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top. Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover. Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the USB/12V/120V Trailer Brake Controls. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip. Positi on console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place. Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached. Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place. For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness. Reverse steps to reassemble. Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.
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I am looking for some insight from other people that specialize in wiring and electrical. I own a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab and I have recently installed an overhead console and wired it to a 10 amp circuit in the interior fuse panel using 16ga wire. Doing it this way, the LEDS are very bright, like I want them. Now I want to switch the wiring to the existing wiring from the BCM for OE functionality when I open the door or use the dimmer switch to turn them on. The original wiring is a GRY/BLK 20ga(?) wire that runs up the pillar on the driver side. When I tapped into this wire, the dome lights work like they should, but are very dim. What should I do about this? I have considered running the oe wiring to activate a relay and running the 16ga I have installed through the same relay for power and ground to the dome lights. That way I get the brightness I like, and it retains OE functionality. Is this the way I should go or are there other options? -
I've noticed a lot of us are having interior noise issues. Thought I might try to compile a list of what I've experienced with my truck & what I've seen on here. If you acknowledge or add to this list, PLEASE include your truck's make, model, cab type, and build date (or purchase date if you don't know build). People can't see your signatures on some mobile devices. Thanks. GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab built 6/2014 My truck's noises: 1) Driver's seat squeak/burp/fart sound - Cause: the left side of seat's leather rubbing against plastic trim. Status: not resolved. 2) Driver's seat popping noise - Cause: unknown. It happens when I lift/lower my weight off/on seat. Status: not resolved. 3) Rattling noise coming from panel below steering wheel, in front of driver's knees - Cause: Metal backing vibrating against plastic panel. Status: DIY fix. Removed panel and slid a piece of cardboard b/w panel & it's attached metal backing to prevent vibration. 4) Rattling noise from behind center stack. Cause: Plastic panel over windshield dash vents hitting against underlying supports, especially near the light sensor. Originally I thought the sound was coming from behind the radio/climate controls but the way the windshield reflects the sound tricks your ears. Status: not resolved. Will likely attempt another DIY fix b/c dealership takes way too long. 5) Squeak/rattle from rear seats - Cause: debatable. Sounds like it's coming from seat hinge mechanism or possibly hanger behind seats. Definitely my most annoying noise to date! Status: not resolved. I've attempted several times to locate & correct but no luck. Debating if I'm going to go further & remove seats or just let dealer handle this one. Other noises I've read about but thankfully have not experienced myself: 6) Noise from rear cab.. exhaust - Cause: Exhaust heat shield tapping against underside of cab. Fix: bend metal away from cab 7) Noise from rear cab.. window - Cause: Rear sliding window. Fix: add weatherstripping. (hopefully someone else will elaborate on this one) Thanks -
I just picked up my new 2014 Double Cab LTZ. Red with Cocoa Dune interior. Love the truck but have an unsettling problem that's driving me CRAZY!!! The top of the dash where the soft touch materiel meets the hard plastic piece where the defrost vents are is warping!!! (see photos) It's happening right in front of the sensor in the middle and on the passenger side. I took it into the dealership a couple days ago and they seemed pretty surprised and concerned. I'm dropping it off tomorrow. Hopefully they can replace the dash piece or something and fix it. I'm wondering if you guys can compare my dash to yours and see if you are having any of the same issues. I live in Michigan so it's cold right now and I'm thinking maybe the temp change from cold to warm (defrost) is warping the plastic? Anyways it's staring me in the face every time I drive it.
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I have a 2015 GMC Sierra Single Cab 4.3L V6. Pulled into the parking lot at work this morning with no issues. Went to back into a parking spot and when I shifted into reverse, EVERYTHING in the cab shut off for about 3 seconds. When it came back on I had an airbag alarm and a stabilitrak alarm. I backed into the spot without issue. As far as I could tell the drive-train was fine. I have the convenience package which is basically the backup camera, Bluetooth, and On-Star. Anyone else come across this issue or anything similar? -
Yesterday, 11:28pm 2015 3500 WT Crew 4X4 SRW - Going to be upgrading several things and hard wire all my USB stuff. Surprisingly Google research shows nothing on this subject for having been done this way or location. Rather then purchase a hardwire kit with a converter step down box, isn’t there a factory one already in the vehicle for the USB port in the center consule I can tie into and where is the location of it, in the console itself? Other research shows its only a .5 amp and if so, anyone know if the box in the truck is ONLY .5 output or if it has multiple outputs? If not and factory box is only .5 amps, it’s all a waste of time! Need 2.4. Thinking now probaly easier just to install a 12 V outlet directly to battery and use the standard plug-in adapter and hide it under the dash! LOL
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Hello everyone, I recently bought this clean title, high mileage 2000 Silverado LS Z71 from my coworker. It was right before Christmas and I really wanted to help the guy out knowing full well I could do something with it. Heck, I needed a truck after all. I get home and attempt to drain the oil but nothing comes out. After some poking around with a screwdriver, I get it to drain. Chunks are flowing along with the oil and it turns out there was so much sludge build up in the bottom of the pan, it sucked some up, suffered a momentary loss of oil pressure and spun the bearing. I know the transmission had a hard shift from first to second. Could it be low fluid? Maybe, but why do the swap just to find out the transmission is bad? My coworker friend was a smoker and it appears he preferred his coffee without a lid so the interior is....interesting. Also truck only has oxidation on the hood and fenders so the only reasonable choice was to find a salvaged donor vehicle to source parts from!! I have a buddy with a dealers license and I'm debating picking up this rear ended 2006 Escalade for a FULL front end/interior/dash/drivetrain swap. Can it be done? Plug and play? Anything someone doing something like this should know? I've done some pretty crazy engine swaps and garage rebuilds, 2 stroke porting early on, etc. I have the ability but hopefully you folks can chime in and confirm whether or not it is possible or if there is a better option. I was also looking at a 2004 Duramax/6speed which was t-boned pretty good as a potential candidate but there's something about that plush Escalade interior....
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Hey Guys, I’ve noticed that a friend of mine has the blue LED lights all over his dashboard, he says it came like that since he purchased it. He drives a 2016 Chevy Silverado & mine is 2017 but I don’t seem to have this option. Both our cars are LT 1500. Any tips or guides on how to activate it (if possible). Thanks ??
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2015 WT 3500 SRW CREW 4x4 Removing my overhead console to install a rocker switch panel and it’s driving me crazy trying to figure out what that little tiny dot in the middle is!!! If I look close it looks like some kind of a light sensor? I noticed nothing happening if I cover it with my finger but I have a WT model so I don’t have anything fancy! Over an hour of googling and looking at every parts diagram but the diagrams for overhead console don’t show a number next to that one! I’ve even put the part number in directly that’s on the plug and get nothing! Of course I ask because I’m going to cut that out and replace it with the panel and if has no use in this truck and it’s just there for the fancier version’s then I’m safe Also, on the dashboard in the middle right next to the windshield is that bubble which I always thought was for the security system and keyless lock unlock, but I just noticed it’s for automatic headlights and such? But yet the owners manual refers to it as a something to do with the security system? And last question, if the bubble is for day and night sensor where is the receiver for the remote control? I know the actual location of the receiver but is there not a separate window or something that’s exposed in a better location, cuz I can click this thing from 100 yards away and it locks and find it hard to believe the receiver that’s buried is actually that sensitive? In short everything I thought I knew about what those things were for, I no longer do and I’m really confused now lol
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I have a 2005 Sierra Crew Cab, Short Box, Z71. The dome lights do not come on when I open any doors, but the door lights come on. Any ideas?
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