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Showing results for tags 'ignition'.
Found 12 results
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I couldn't find this anywhere in the forum, pardon if I missed it. I drive a 2016 Sierra Denali 1500 and I left my key in the ignition overnight. It was NOT in 'on' or 'acc', just left inserted into the ignition. I shut the truck off in the garage after getting home and got distracted by my kids, forgetting the key was still in. Next morning all it did was click when I turned the key, all lights still worked. Figured leaving it in all night killed the battery so I tried a jump (no go) then charged it with a battery charger. Even with a fully charged battery it still didn't start. Figured since the battery is 5 years old now I may have killed it off, so I bought a new battery and installed it...only to still have no start. I'm not getting any codes, so this one has left me scratching my head. Is there a security feature I'm not aware of? Could the starter have gone from trying to start it up so many times? Keep in mind I have not had any starting or battery issues. This only happened after leaving the key inserted in the ignition overnight. I also haven't installed any new lights, electronics, etc. -
Looking for some advise on what to try next to fix an unknown issue with my 2015 Sierra. 190k Miles L83. New transmission at 140k. A couple months ago I had a studder while the engine was put underload at low RPM in high gears. Mostly only noticeable with highway driving. Feels like the ignition kicks out for a split second truck jerks hard then I have to let out of it and downshift to high RPM where engine is not under as much load. The issue has been slowly getting worse and happening at less and less load. I can hear an audible breakup coming from the engine bay and exhaust notes. I started small and replaced plugs and wires, ran a can of seafoam through a 1/4 of a tank, ran seafoam in oil for 30 minutes at idle, then did an oil change with a quart of marvel and ran that for another 30 in hopes to clear a possible stuck DOD lifter. All with no changes. I reached out to a GM tech who told me its likely a stuck DOD lifter so I went ahead and replaced all the lifters and cleaned up in carbon on the injectors while I was in there. Still not changes. I am thinking the only logical next step is to replace the coils because it sounds like a ignition issue. But before I go throwing more money at this I would like to see if anyone has any other input. Thanks in advance! -
No crank, no fuel pump, no start
DanTheBetterMan posted a topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
Hey guys, I have a problem I can't solve and I'm hoping someone here can help. Last night I was driving my 2011 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.3L and pulled into a gas station. When I got back in the truck I turned the key to the start position but nothing happened besides the dash going black. I didn't hear the starter click and I didn't hear the fuel pump turn on. So far here's what I've done: Tried to jump the car, no success. Took the battery to get tested and it's fine. Switched the relays around to see if something else would quit working and the truck would start, but same outcome. I jumped the two big connectors on the back of the starter and the starter turned over, but the truck never started it actually kept turning even with the power off and didn't stop until I disconnected the battery I replaced the battery in the remote but this didn't fix anything. I thought it might be anti-theft related but the the light on the dash isn't on for the alarm and the truck locks and unlocks with the remote. I connected a scanner to it and am able to see the ecm getting an ignition signal when I turn the key to start Through the scanner I can see that the ECM recognizes that the transmission is in park/neutral Has anyone ran into this before? Is there anything else that would prevent it from starting and cause a no crank, no fuel, no start issue that I need to check? The monitor I'm using has the ability to check basically any sensor value. Thanks! -
I recently purchased a 2005 Silverado 1500 and it came with two keys (both well used) that appear to be perfectly identical. However, one of them always turns the ignition with no issues and one of them turns the ignition only after wiggling it for several seconds. There must be some imperceptible difference between the keys but I'm trying to decide if it's more likely a bad key or an ignition tumbler that's at the end of its life. I know they're both pretty cheap fixes but I was wondering if anyone has any insight
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2001 gmc HD 6.6 Have had no issues prior to this, I have 173 000 on this truck. 92 degree day. Drove to dump today, turned off, emptied trash, finished and started it back up then drove to the gas station. Turned it off for about 15 minutes, came back out of store, turned it on, started back up then immediately died. Tried to turn it on again and it did not turn over. My dash came on, my gauges worked and it shifted into neutral no issue. Just wouldnt turn over, wouldnt even click. My only light that did not come on on the dash was my WAIT TO START icon for the glow bulbs. Had to have it towed home. Let it sit about 40 min, my husband went out to try it but used the spare key and started up no issue. Twice. No delay in turn over. I went and tried with both 3x each and it started up also, but took longer to actually start. Last oil and fuel filter change less than 1000 miles ago. Batteries 6.months old. I havent started looking at relays or fuses. What would be the difference between symptoms and trouble shooting a bad ignition switch versus a bad starter? Any help appreciated.
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I have a 2014 sierra crew cab. Since it was new I have been having a problem with the steering wheel locking and being unable to turn the key to start/unlock the wheel. The dealer has replaced the whole steering column with no fix. Has anyone had the same problem and what is the fix.
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I just bought a 1991 Chevy C70 Kodiak C7H042 6.6L 403 CUI Diesel in amazingly great condition. I am now the 3rd owner of this dump truck. The first owner took great care of the vehicle, everything thing appears to be well maintained and no shade tree work. All the parts, wiring and accessories appear to be original and well maintained. However, the second owner bought this truck and never used it. It has sat in a field for about four years. To get to the point, I completely serviced the truck and replaced the batteries, checked the fuses, grounds, relays and I have absolutely no power to the truck. No interior or exterior lights and no lights on the instrument panel. What could be the issue?
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So this is my first post on here, been lurking around for a while and have been able to troubleshoot the majority of my problems. But most recently while leaving work truck started up just fine (2001 Silverado 4.3l vortec with 281k miles) and immediately stalled going in reverse tried cranking it and the battery died so I replaced it with a brand new one and it started up just fine and about 5 minutes down the road stalled again and would not start, towed it home and checked for basics fuel and spark, the truck is infact getting fuel even replaced the old fuel filter, the ignition coil has power and is sending power to distributor cap, checked spark plug wires and they aren’t reciving power and grounded a spark plug to check if it wasn’t getting any spark and it has not, replaced both rotor and cap and there is still no spark, all fuses are good, just no power to cap any help is appreciated
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2010 Chevy Silverado So I’ve just bought this truck, and when I try to start it the starter will sometimes stay on after the Motor fires for a few seconds. Then it has a very uneven idle. THEN when I rev the engine it wil rev up then drop down below normal idel and almost stall. This will go away if the truck is warm. Now the only thing I have done since getting it is to pull the pipe off of the purge valve next to the fuel tank because it is broken. I’ve ordered a new purge valve and will install it as soon as it gets in. Is it possible that this is causing some sort of low fuel pressure or something? Has anyone else has issues like this? -
Hi, need help please. Hit black ice in my 03 Sierra 2500 with a duramax engine. Went over a 15 foot embankment and came down hard under front driver side corner which pushed everything up several inches. The motor was running when I shut it down but now will not start. I was thinking maybe an emergency fuel shut off was triggered but now i'm thinking maybe something else. Any ideas or help would be truly appreciated. PS: jumping them isn't as fun as it looks on tv!
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The pain just seems to never stop. Some Tahoes are also included. We won't harp on the relationship to the just-settled ignition death lawsuits and civil suits. A GM employee is being credited with discovering the new ignition switch defect according to the Detroit Free Press. As always, you can use our link here to look up your truck to see if it falls under this new ignition switch defect. -
However, today the Wall Street Journal is reporting that Justice officials may charge GM and its officers with felony wire fraud. In the eyes of the Department of Justice, GM lied to the public about the faulty ignition switches. Last year Toyota settled similar charges with the Justice Department over its misleading statements about unintended acceleration crashes. That settlement dwarfs all other automotive related fines. At that time, it was clear to those who report news on Toyota and GM that General Motors' liability and possible criminal wrongdoing appeared much more threatening to the company. The GM issue lasted longer, involved more vehicles, and is reported to have caused significantly more deaths and injuries. The probe is being conducted by the Manhattan DA. In a statement, GM said, “We are cooperating fully with all requests from the [Justice Department], as we have from the beginning." GM-trucks.com will bring you more as this story develops. We would be interested to hear your thoughts on the issue. Will GM be charged? Should their 2009 restructuring absolve them of responsibility if they did the same things Toyota did? You can read more at the WSJ on-line here.
