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Found 22 results
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Been a while since I updated this but I wasn't getting any heat. First I tried to replace the blend door actuator. is like $15. I am almost positive it wasn't working. For that you have to disconnect the batter, remove the upper glove box and the air bag. It is on the left almost behind the radio. This is on the model with no electronic climate control wish single zone. Also, notice how my dash is cracked. I hate that. That is the bled door actuator way over there on the left. Now it was definitely working but that didn't fix the problem. The air was not as cold but definitely not hot. I was researching replacing the heater core - not something I want to do - when I saw videos of flushing it. So I gave that a shot. -
I’m having this issue with my truck. So both fans turn on automatically when I start the truck, also I don’t have no A/C. I replaced my thermostat and temp sensor. That didn’t seem to fix it. I should also include that I did a DOD Delete with a stock non dod cam, it’s tuned and engine works fine. It’s driveable but it’s annoying have no A/C and both fans when I start the truck. Please help! -
Hey guys Just to describe what I am experiencing. Before I lost my AC, I would occasionally have my blower speed slow down randomly, or the blend doors would move to a different location, or would kick into recirculation. I would have to turn the fan down and back up to get it to come back, but sometimes it wouldn't work. At some point my condenser caught a rock and was leaking, so I replaced it. Worked fine for about 6 months, then suddenly no more cold air. I roll like this for over a year in the texas heat. Not being able to afford to fix it. Then randomly, it came back on! I was happy but didn't know what happened. Then it went off again and hadn't returned. Well since then I have change the compressor, expansion valve, dryer, pressure switch, condenser. Charged it but compressor won't pull vacuum. Clutch won't engage on its own so I have to bypass it at the relay, but still wont pump down, so I suspect the solenoid on the compressor won't engage either, which from what I can tell bypasses the compressor in an unpowered state. I have the suspision that my hvac control module has gone out. My truck is a 2016 gmc sierra 1500 with the 5.3 v8 gas below is all the information I can pull about this. Any assistance would be GREATLY appreciated.
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I have a 2016 Sierra SLT Z71 the Air conditioning started making noise after about a year, had it in service 4 times they changes fan, compressor and cabin filter clean system no help. The noise stops when A/C is turned off and the fan still running and starts again when A/C is turned back on gets louder as engine revves. Anyone have an idea what the problem can be? Service can't find a fix and I'm going crazy. The 4 loaner trucks I have been driving while being serviced are very quite. This is my 8th new GMC Sierra first time had a problem. -
Please help!, my blower motor turns on for 2 seconds and shuts off, tried new blower motor, climate control panel unhooked battery etc and still nothing. Called to get a resistor but they said it is non serviceable. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! -
Hope this helps anyone that runs into this. My original battery died and I changed it out yesterday. After the change my AC was not operating correctly. I surfed the forums and found all sorts of fixes like pulling fuses and disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. None worked. I then notice that the outside temp on the intellilink screen is showing 36 degrees. Figuring it reset to Celsius (I’m in Texas so that is a logical centigrade reading for us) I checked settings and found it was set to F. Buried in a forum about calibrating the temp gauge I found a GM service bulletin that says after a battery dies you need to drive the car at least 5 minutes over 20 mph for the temp gauge to calibrate; or let the car sit off for 8 hours. I drove the car down the highway and this worked like a charm. When the outside temp is showing 36 degrees, it is basically telling the ac compressor not to come on and sending heat to the car. Not a lot of fun in 95+ heat in Texas. On a side note why why is there no documentation that this is the norm? I called the dealer to have a girl laugh at me and tell me the car “has” to have a lot of things reset after a battery swap...and they want $155. Which was basically corrected with 5 minutes of driving.- 2 replies
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I am having problems with my air conditioning again. My A/C is blowing warm air and this is the second time I have had this problem since buying my 2015 Sierra less than 6 months ago. A few months ago I had the exact same problem and my dealership diagnosed it as a leaking hose and all of the freon was gone. They had to order a new hose and it took a week for it to come in. They installed the new hose and added more freon and it has been fine for the past 3 months until today. This morning I noticed that the air coming out was warmer than normal even though I have the A/C set at 65 degrees. It was fine yesterday. I am going to monitor it and see if it gets worse and if so make an appointment to take it to the dealer again. Just wondering if anyone else has had to replace the hose or had a freon issue with their 2014 or 2015 Sierra / Silverado? -
Hey all ! Just signed up, but I'm coming over from gmc4x4.com. That forum has pretty much died out, and I need some pretty urgent help. Rear heat ! Fan doesn't spin. Doesn't get voltage at the fan. I have done the following, but I am willing to double check things too: That red wire under the dash. Complete, charged and seems to be ok. I really don't understand this fix, so I'd be willing to talk about it some more. Replaced rear resistor with the new updated one. Millivolts on those wires - nothing else. Fuses checked and appear to be ok. I have the auto-thermostat model with rear and fore temperature settings and "Auto" fan speeds. When I move the front HVAC control, it will disable the rear (Unless it's in AUX and the rear comes to life) The vent flapper doesn't appear to move either. It's like the entire rear unit has just gone to sleep. Voltage applied directly to the motor will spin it. Motor and windings appear ok and test out ok. Does anyone have any ideas ?
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Hey all, I recently had my blower stop working on 1, then on all speeds. Figured it was the resistor pack since I had the same issue a couple of years ago so i pulled it out to check, and found one of the pins in the resistor pack had completely melted both the male and female ends. Following a forum post from somewhere I ordered a full blower motor kit (motor/resistor pack/ new connector and partial harness) and installed it today. The blower now works like it should, except when set to 5 it shuts off. It does click audibly when the dial is set to 5, which i remember reading is proper operation, but the motor does not move. Just wondering where I should start looking. I'm guessing either one of the connections I made on the new harness isn't good enough (can't make enough sense of the wiring diagrams to see which is 5), or rockauto gave me a bad resistor. -
Hello all! I am hoping for a little help to get me started in the right direction. My work truck is a 2011 GMC Sierra 2500HD Diesel, and I apologies in advance for the length of this post! In the summer I started having issues with my truck batteries draining completely while parked. Anytime I didn't drive it for a few days, dead. Batteries tested as needing replacement (they were 9 years old). Replaced both batteries and back to life! Fast forward several months and I thought I had the same issue, dead batteries and the truck remotes wouldn't unlock the doors. Unlucky me, somebody also tried to steal the truck a bit before this and punched out the lock so I couldn't get in. Quick call to the tow truck and the door was unlocked. I popped the key into the ignition and it started right up so I guess the batteries weren't dead? At the time I thought that was strange but the remote door locks were working again and I headed off to buy a new lock cylinder and batteries for the Fobs. I wondered at this time if the issue was the non-stop rain we were having. I noticed that the drivers side rear passenger seat belt was wet when I unrolled it and thought there may be water getting into the truck somehow, but the headliner looks dry. I really should have installed the cylinder but didn't because, well, it was raining and I didn't have a garage to work in. During these few weeks the door worked just fine most of the time. At times it seemed like the truck just wouldn't wake up until I had pressed the FOB enough times and uttered a curse or two, and then it happened again. Locked out. Called the tow truck again and got the doors unlocked. Truck starts but this time the remote unlock doesn't come back to life. I sucked it up and installed the new lock cylinder in the pouring rain so at least I could lock the doors. At this time I started getting messages through the DIC about the TPMS needing servicing. I drove randomly for the next month and a half without getting the situation fixed due to...life happening fast and hard. Then I noticed that while I was driving the gauges looked like the reset. Everything dropped to zero and the lights for the airbags, check engine etc lit up. I got messages across the DIC to have the air bags and 4x4 system serviced, and the radio went dark. Within a second or two the gauges came back to life and the radio restarted and all went back to normal. I checked the battery terminals to make sure they were clean and tight then wrote it off to a bad road and didn't think more of it. I clipped off the wiring for the camper harness as I noticed it was corroded and potentially arcing, and I pulled the fuse on the obstruction system (parking sensors) because of error codes for an open ground and bad sensor. (I don't use the system anyway because of hitches and trailering) Over the last 3 weeks the gauges have started to reset themselves more and more frequently while driving, and once the engine didn't shut down when I turned and removed the key. I quickly put the key back in, gave it a quick turn on and off and the truck shut down. I have had the batteries die twice in that time and I don't know if it was my toddler playing with the cab lights or something else. As of yesterday the gauges and radio will only work when the truck initially starts. After the start they will operate for a few seconds then warning lights galore and gauges drop to zero. Radio goes dark, but HVAC stays on. Dash remains lit up and DIC works but the transmission selector doesn't show what gear the truck is in. Turn indicators will illuminate but not flash. Once even with the truck off and the key out the HVAC stayed on and the blower kept running. Buttons on the climate control panel were nonresponsive so I had to pull and replace the fuse on the HVAC. I know that the truck will need to go and get professionally assessed, however I am hoping for a little guidance as to what the issue(s) could be. Given the holidays and weather, getting an appointment to get the truck checked over hasn't been easy and I want to make sure I get it into the right type of shop. Any guidance or insight is appreciated. Again, sorry for the rambling nature of the post. -
hi everyone, ive looked high and low with no luck, so apologies of this is directly cited somewhere. The plastic grooves/housing where the blower motor twists into place under the glove box, are brittle and broken. Therefore, my blower fan will not stay in place. Is that plastic housing or assembly core sold as a stand alone part? Trying to figure out a way to get the blower motor secured without duct tape or something else. thanks!
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I’ve had my Lt Trailboss for just a few days now and it seems like the Hvac blower is louder than it should be. Has anyone had any issues with this? I had a 2017 Silverado before but never noticed the noise. It’s possible that because the interior is so much quieter that I’m just noticing it more. If anyone has any info on this I would appreciate it. -
2001 silverado 1500 4x4 HVAC problem
Turf Nation posted a topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 4 x 4 my AC blows hot the compressor comes on but shuts off repeatedly.Anyone have any idea what that could be? -
My AC only blows cold on the driver's side. The passenger kicks out some heat. Here's where I am so far: I noticed no movement from the passenger side actuator. I recalibrated the system, no improvement. Went ahead and replaced the passenger side door blend actuator. That was not fun to say the least. Did it by removing the passenger side airbag, vent and dropped the glovebox. That didn't fix it. I noticed however that the white dial went from the center position to the right. It seems to be stuck there no matter what I do with the climate control dial. I recalibrated the system again and nothing. I'm at a loss with what to do next. Could the terminal cable be bad? I'm not sure where those wires lead. Any guidance is appreciated. I bought the new actuator from Oreilly. They had a 65 dollar one and a 140 dollar version, both from Dorman. The salesman could not tell any difference between the two, so I opted for the 65 dollar one. The terminal connection was exactly the same on both. A mystery to me. I hope to god that one is correct and the other isn't. One more thing to note...When I bought the truck used, the air blew cold on both sides (Florida purchase). When I got it up to Atlanta, there was not heat. I took it to a mechanic who discovered the heater core was disconnected (bypassed). We went ahead and connected it to see if it leaked. No leaks. So we just hooked it back up. Heat worked great. The passenger AC, as noted, stopped working. Perhaps there's a connection there. The truck has 80k miles and is a V6. Thank you. -
When I’m running my heater, the mode changes on its own (Defrost, to vent). They said it was a short, and a solenoid needs to be replaced. I can’t find any information for the mode actuator, or solenoid. Everything is about the blend actuator, which is different. I’m looking for part numbers and schematics, or better yet, video on how to fix this. They wanted $230 to fix it, but I’m handy enough. Thanks in advance!! -
Hey all. I bought another ride and it came with some HVAC issues . I’m not very good with wiring related trouble shooting so I need your help. Its a 2002 suburban with the base hvac. No digital display and no dual climate. The issues *hot to cold switch doesn’t work *vent change doesn’t work (blows out of front vents only) [The Fan speed knob works fine And all fuses are good] After reading up on the common actuator problems, I decided to try the relearn/calibration of the actuators. This literally did nothing and the part that has me stumped is that the actuators didn’t move at all during this calibration (you should hear them moving and calibrating) So here is my thought on the problem. It’s either... a) Both/ all actuators are bad and need replaced b) The switch panel/ control unit is bad c) There is something else and I’m lost. Please help guys! Is there something I don’t know??
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i have an 2013 gmc 2500 hd and recently came across a screeching noise when i turn the heater on. I believe it is not the blower motor as when is it on cold the noise goes away. I am lost on what to look at next.
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There should be other topics similar to this here. But I thought it shouldn't be a bad idea to share copy of my technician's report and the article related to HVAC's After Blow function. My previous 2014 Silverado LT had this function enabled by default, but the new generation needs to be activated by the dealer.
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Alright Gents, I'm new to the forum. My truck is a 2012 Silverado LTZ Z71 and it has the dual climate control and auto climate button. Heres the problem: About two weeks ago my air quit working out of no where, it would not work at all! Okay, so I replaced the blower motor and resistor and harness, still no air. So, then I replaced the in dash climate control module. The air will work, however it works when it wants to. I can cut the truck on, cut the power on and it wont work, but I'll be d****d if the air works after I've been sweating for a good hour while driving around in this Alabama heat and try turning it on at random! Sometimes, I can take out the fuse to the module and leave it out for a few minutes and out it back in and it work for a few hours with me cutting it on and off as I enter and exit the truck. I finally said to h*** with it and took it to a shop this morning, they called and said that it was the climate control module, that I just replaced mind you, and that they are waiting for a call back from the dealer because the module is a dealer part. I just now got to thinking about something...is there a specific procedure that you're supposed to follow after replacing the climate control module?? Am I missing something??? For the record the resistor did need replacing and I went ahead and replaced the blower motor as well since the old one was starting to lose it's umph and not push air like it used to. So, again...am I missing something here? I've looked and looked, and I'm not the only one with this problem, however no one has the exact problem. I'm really at my wits end guys! I work outside, so yeah I'm pissed right now because I cant escape this dang heat.
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I think i can hear the Temperature Door Actuator Motor run for a few seconds every few minutes even when the key is off and the truck is sitting cold overnight. What the heck? I think its gonna run my battery down. Does anyone know where the Temperature Door Actuator is under the dash? I'm thinking it's inside the the actual HVAC box not underneath it like on the 1994. I've owned the truck since 1995 and know a fair amount of the problems these 1988 thru 1992 have and fixed many things on mine in all those years but this is new for me. Thanks for any help you can supply. -
2003 Yukon - Blend Door Actuator Locations & Functions
boulderskies posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
Does anyone have documentation or definitively know the specific location & function of each of the Blend Door Actuators in 2000-vintage Yukon/Sierra/Silverados?Thank you,Scott -
My father-in-law has a 2000 S10 that the heater doesn't blow hot air in defrost, in floor mode or combo. It only barely blows warm air in upper body mode. The engine is running normal temperature. Is it a blend door actuator problem? Or a different actuator problem?
