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Hi just wondering if anyone would be able to help. My truck makes this rattling noice when being accelerated. When it started it wasn't that bad but has progressively got worse. It's worse when it's cold then goes away for the most part once the engine is warmed up. Sounds like it's coming from the front end. Thank you! 20220307_163644.mp4 -
Truck started to make a squeaking noise this weekend, took it to the dealership on Monday. Dealership called Tuesday and said that they could not find anything wrong with the truck and that this sound is normal. Take a look at this video so that you can hear and understand what I am talking about. https://youtu.be/aERzjGAX-aU Does this sound normal to you guys? I also put water on the belt and the noise was persistent so it does not appear to be the belt. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Hi I have a 2014 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3 I have a winding sound 45-55 mph only when on throttle truck has a rebuild motor, jasper transmission and rear dif. I put my truck on a lift and ran it sounded like noise was coming from drive shaft so I changed out the drive shaft today and my noise changed tones a little bit but is still there is it possible that it’s the transfer case does not change at all if it’s in 4x4 or 2x4 if I go below 45mph the sound is completely gone if I go above 55 it’s gone too but it starting to get louder and I can’t figure out what it is. It started so after I changed the transmission the noise is also the reason I changed the rear dif -
I was just curious as to whether people ran spacers after they did their lifts. I have read that you need a 1.5" spacer on the rear after adding a 4.5" lift to compensate for the front track width being wider.
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Hi there, looking to get support on how to deal with this alert. I have a 2019 Custom Trail Boss Silverado. Is it just a bad sensor? How do you replace? Do I need special tools?
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2011 Silverado 1500 LTZ remote start?
CarboneXVI posted a topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
Hey everybody. I own a 2011 Silverado 1500 LTZ, and in the glove box I have the RPO code AP8. I purchased a Dorman 4 button fob included with an OBD2 programmer. I followed all of the steps to program, and the fob works with locking/unlocking. However, when trying to remote start, the blinkers flash like they saw the trigger, but the truck doesn't start. Being that I have AP8, what else do I need to do in order to make this work? My local dealer is asking for $330 for a new fob and programming (saying there is more involved than just programming a fob), but if this is something I can do myself with the right equipment, I'd like to think I can handle it. Thanks. -
Recently bought a leather steering wheel from a 2012 2500 sierra. I swapped it into my 2007nnbs silverado ls/base model. I've searched for hours trying to find the correct information on what I need to get the radio controls to work. The harness that came with the wheel had 1 more wire than the ls model did. Original harness had 6 wires. New wheel had 7 wires. Everything I looked up said the swap should be plug and play. But it is not. I need some help to know what I really need? New clockspring? Different harness? Harness behind clockspring? Or is it just not compatible at all? Picture is of new steering and harness that came with it Thanks everyone!
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Hey, I have quite the problem solve for all you techs out there. It's been brought to a GM Dealer; no luck. I'm far from unable to work on my own stuff and am mechanically inclined but this one has me stumped. Problem: I'm from Northern Ontario; where an average winter temp is minus 15-25 degrees Celsius. All summer long in warm weather, my dash cluster will work perfectly fine. Last winter, the only time I would have a problem would be when it was around -20 or colder. This year, anything from +2ish and below, absolutely nothing on my dash cluster will work except for the black light (back light works normally, turns on and off when the lighting is proper) this includes speedo, tach, battery, gas, cruise control, odometer... until my truck warms up and I shut it off and warm it back up. And when it's cold, that's no drive around town, I'm talking if it's cold it takes a good half hour on the highway and then I have to shut the key off and turn it back on and my dash flickers and works from then on till I shut it off and it gets cold again. When you cycle the key, the needles kind of flicker and try to go, but no dice. I am beyond stumped. Let me know if any of you have had the same problem or have any type of solution. Justin. -
Anyone else with a new 2014 Sierra having an issue with the frame rusting and paint/wax flaking off? I have 3000 kms and it looks horrible. I also own a 2011 Canyon service truck with 105kms and the frame looks like new. So irriating as my Sierra is a beautiful truck aside
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This bracket that holds a 4 plug plate for the rear taillight wiring. it is mounted on the rear of the frame at the last cross member. I cant find it in my drunken stumbles, a part # or where I can buy one would be a huge help
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2014 Sierra 5.3 My truck developed a new shake/hard vibration. While in park I feel it a little, but when I shift to Reverse the shakes starts. Then when I shift to Neutral, it's stops. When in drive, the shakes starts again. Blower motor seems to be fine. While in Park, the motor and belts look normal. As well as under the truck, nothing seems to be moving. Engine mounts looks solid. -
Hey guys, I have a 2017 Silverado 1500. A month or 2 ago I had to get the transmission replaced, it’s still shifting very odd and just feels off. Jerking when going into certain gears, doesn’t want to shift at times etc. Is there anything I should take care of myself before taking it to the dealership again… this new trans has a 3 year warranty. Sorry that I am not the best at explaining issues like this, so any help is much appreciated
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2017 GMC Sierra I want to fit 35s on my stock wheels and have the smallest lift i can do. I don’t want to do a whole lot of cutting maybe no cutting at all. What size lift or level can I do -
Now that owners are taking delivery of the new 2019 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra, I thought a quick reference guide to common routine maintenance items would be beneficial to us all. If you have information that you'd like suggest be added to this topic, just post below and I'll update this first post with any and all new/updated information. 2019 Chevy Silverado & 2019 GMC Sierra Routine Maintenance Quick Reference Guide -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Digital Owners Manuals 2019 Chevrolet Silverado: 2019_Chevy_Silverado_Owners_Manual.pdf 2019 GMC Sierra: 2019_GMC_Sierra_Owners_Manual.pdf Oil Changes 2.7L(L3B) Capacity: 6.0 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF66 / 55495105 Drain Plug Size: TBD 5.3L(L84) & 6.2L(L87) Capacity: 8.0 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF63E / 19330000 Drain Plug Size: 15MM or XX Torx Engine Air Filters With High Capacity Air Cleaner: A3244C / 84121219 Without High Capacity Air Cleaner: A3246C / 84121217 Interior Filters Passenger Compartment Air Filter: CF185 Wiper Blades Drivers & Passenger Sides: 55cm / 21.7 Inches - GM Part Number 23417074 Spark Plugs 2.7L L4: 12688094 / 41-106-IP 4.3L V6: 12622441 / 41-114 5.3L V8 & 6.2L V8: 12622441 / 41-114 Fuel Tank Sizes Standard / Short Box (Gas & 4WD Duramax): 24 Gallons Standard & Short Box (2WD Duramax): 22 Gallons Automatic Transmission Fluid 6-Speed: DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid 8-Speed: DEXRON-HP Automatic Transmission Fluid 10-Speed: DEXRON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid (GM Part Number 19352619/Canada 19352620) Transfer Case Fluid All Models: 1.6 Quarts DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid Wheel Lug Nut Torque All Models: 140 lb-ft / 190 N-m
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I have a 2018 Silverado 4x4 and I replaced the factory fog lights with ones from Diode Dynamics. The new fogs have an amber backlight that I need to tap somewhere to get power. Can anyone help me with a good location for tapping and what color wire to be looking for? I'm thinking of tapping into DRL so they are on at all times during the day.
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"ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK" Has anyone ever came across this before? Let me start from the beginning. On 11/2932013, halfway on my drive from work to home, I noticed that my truck would "sputter" and the rpm would fluctuate when giving it some gas while going up a hill/incline (interstate). Once I was done with the hill/incline, everything would smooth out. Closer to home, once again, I would only notice the "sputter-like" reaction and rpm fluctuating slightly when giving it gas to climb a hill/incline. Made it home fine with no problems or warnings/lights. Upon embarking to work the next morning (11/30/2013), at approximately 5-6 miles from home, I went to give the truck some gas to get above 60 and all of a sudden all these warnings and dings starting going off. My engine warning light illuminated and my traction control light came on and I noticed some warnings scrolling through at the bottom saying: "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK". it blew my mind! Meanwhile, I noticed my truck slowing down no matter how much gas I gave it. I was coming to a road intersection just ahead and preceded to turn around and pull over to investigate. I couldn't understand what was going on so since I was close to home, I just "limped" it back home and not getting over 40-45 mph. Got home and shut engine off and called my job. I went back out later before my ride got there to pick me up, and started my truck. It started fine and I didn't notice any "sputtering" like before, however the engine light is still illuminated. I can't do anything until this Wednesday anyway. Is there someone that has come across this before? The day it happened I Google'd to my heart's content and found that I am not alone, however I did notice that there can be a number of things that could cause this. Would any of this be covered under a warranty? How would I know if I still have warranty on my truck? I need some expert advice on this. Here is my truck info to the best of my knowledge: 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Taupe Gray 5.3 L V8 Crew Cab Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, R. Ashley -
Does anyone have the files or snapshots of the Computer Data Lines Circuit Schematic for the 2011 Chevrolet Suburban 5.3. Any help would be appreciated, having trouble with UXXX codes... -
Alright so my 2006 GMC Sierra was stolen, they stripped my led head lights tail lights 22inch wheels cluster etc. .. I got it back and running but the cluster I replaced mine with was from a Silverado now as I drive the abs lights come on and it says SERVICE BRAKE BOOSTER etc battery light is constantly on when I drive it .. would this be because the cluster I have is not meant for my Sierra ?? Any info helps thanks guys !
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I was adding new license plate lights and accidentally removed a parking sensor it’s been extremely hard to put back any advice. -
Removed my tailgate earlier this week to have it painted, reinstalled it yesterday and made sure to connect the harness properly. The backup camera works fine, but whenever I try to open the tailgate, either by pressing the button on the tailgate or using my key fob, the taillights flash 3 times and the tailgate doesn't open. From within the cab, I hear a faint clicking, but no error code or anything shows on any display. I have the "power lock and release" standard tailgate, not power lift or multipro. Any help fixing this would be much appreciated! -
Hello! I have taken my truck to a couple shops but no one can seem to find what wrong with it. When I come to a stop, my truck acts like it wants to stall out. It doesn't happen all the time but it is becoming more frequent. When stopping, the rpms die, all my gauges drop to zero and all my warning lights flash at me and turn back off. I don't have a check engine light on and when my truck is scanned, there are no codes that come up. I have been told that it is possibly bad torque converter solenoids but I have a weird feeling that I might have some electrical gremlins somewhere. There have been times where I am driving down the road and I go to make sure my windows are rolled up and the gauges due while rolling and my electrics cut out for a second and come back on. There was also once where a truck pulled out down the road from me so I applied the brake to give them room and my truck downshifted hard and jumped to 3500 rpm and felt incredibly sluggish to get back on gas and up to speed. Any help or any direction to a fix is greatly appreciated. Please help me find out what's wrong with my truck! Thank you!
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I’ve got a 1995 GMC Sierra 5.7L. I was at the gas station yesterday and as I turned the key, the starter was engaging and doing its thing however it wouldn’t turn over. You can hear the truck trying to start yet you have to give it gas (pressure on the accelerator) in order for it to fire up. After getting the engine to run, it has a rough idle. I can hear the fuel pump whine/hum, and I’m getting fuel pressure through the fuel filter. I have also recently replaced the distributor and spark plugs recently. Any ideas, tips, or pointers? -
Hi everyone. It’s my first time here but I need some help. My 2007 Silverado with an LH6 5.3 DOD motor has intermittent oil pressure issues. Alittle back story, the truck has 274k on the original motor. Recently, I replace the valley plate gasket, but only the outer part. For convenience sake, I left the DOD tower gasket part. After that, I replaced the oil pickup tube o ring and gave the truck a full service. My issue now is, I still have intermittent low oil pressure. I’ve read about a service bulletin where the oil pressure relief valve sticks, which requires replacing the oil pump and such but there are so many possibilities I’m not sure what to pursue. I know the oil pressure sensor is good and the screen below it is clean. The issue happens randomly. I can start the truck and it will idle and warm up fine (maybe slightly lower than usual) and then I can drive it. I’ll be sitting at a light or a stop and I can slowly watch the oil pressure fall off. Sometimes even while driving slow and then the oil pressure stays low or 0. It doesn’t cause any bad noises that I know of because I shut it off immediately but I’m so confused. After letting it sit for a bit and starting it up it’s fine. I’ve heard many possibility between it being the oil relief in the pump, the oil relief in the pan that apparently exists, DOD lifter problems (although they aren’t giving me any bad noise) leaking DOD valley gaskets (the ones I skimped on replacing) and more. I’m lost as to what to do. Can anyone offer some insight? -
Code p0300 P0300 2003 Chevy Silverado
Amber29.as posted a topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
Please help me I'm a clueless girl ....Replaced my knock sencers and spark plugs and wires and that gasket that goes on the manifold now it's running very rough and throwing code p0300.
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I recently just added a 6 in lift kit and 35 in tires. I was wondering if the dealer could recalibrate the spedometer so I don't have to use an after market tuner and ruin the warranty I payed extra for on the computers. I know how to calculate what speed i'm going just not how off the odometer is going to be. Those are the two questions I am concerned with and as always all replies are greatly appreciated.
