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I’ve looked everywhere on the internet and can’t find what I’m looking for. I’ve seen threads on this topic on here and tried all the solutions. I’ve Disconnected the battery/let it sit/discharged caps. Got a brand New mic. Dropped headliner to check wires weren’t pinched. Changed the fuse. The only thing different about my situation from others is that the rearview mirror was removed. Someone else removed it and I don’t know where it is. It’s a work truck so you can’t see out the back. But I know there’s onstar in the mirror and I’m wondering if it’s possible that the mic doesn’t work with the mirror disconnected. Any help is much appreciated or any other possible fixes that I haven’t tried. Thanks -
Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com April 26th, 2019 Our friend Tim Esterdahl from Pickup Truck and SUV Talk got an awesome chance to tour the Ft Wayne Assembly Plant. That's one of the two plants that produce the 2019 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra. Tim's tour was narrated by GM's Executive Chief Engineer Tim Herrick. Sit back and enjoy this look inside the manufacturing of the all new Silverado and Sierra. And if you like what you see, subscribe to Tim's YouTube Channel.
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- 2019 silverado
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Only joined to spread the word. Like most of you I've been frustrated with the horrible interior lighting without easy fix. I also wasn't willing to have holes drilled in my trim pieces, or lose any functionality of my switches or courtesy lights. If that's of interest to you, I'll try to include screenshot of item since links die, and hopefully enough pictures to get you through so you don't have to spend multiple hours testing circuits to figure it out. The good news is the rear dome lights are so easy to do. Take the rear dome assembly down and take it apart. It's only held up with clips and a small pry tool to get it apart. Remove the 2 fresnel lenses out and put it back together. That's it. Probably 3X the usable light from the rear domes with a nice even spread. The front assembly is quite a bit harder. I'm not going to explain how to remove the assembly and take it apart, there's plenty of videos online. For this mod I ordered some neutral white 3/4inch clearance lights from Tecniq. They have a real nice pattern to them and plenty bright. I needed a way to power them so I used some mosfet trigger modules. Probably 10 bucks in parts if I didn't over order for another projects. I needed some diodes to prevent feedback and keep the bcm safe. I had some on hand. DONT FORGET THE DIODES. I removed the fresnel lenses from the front as well. I took everything apart and with a Drexel 'gently' made the leds fit roughly in the same position as the factory holes. It doesn't take much. I had to trim a bit from the bulbs as well. There's a tiny spot on the pcb board that produces 4 volts on either side corresponding to the lights. If your not comfortable soldering, it's pretty small. Next I routed the wires from the led through the holes directly behind them. I did have to cut some of the rubber out, but be careful not to take too much. Once the pcb was back in, I ran the wires towards the rear and again used the Drexel to make room on the back piece for them to come out. Then I wired them to the mosfet modules. You might have to knock the tiny led off of the module. It's a tiny power draw but these module are meant for 5 volts and we're working with 4V. Mosfet module Requires Vin, Gin, Vout, Gout, trigger, and trigger ground. I place the diodes in the the Vout. Make sure the orientation is correct. Module power out to led. Pigtailed Gin to trigger ground. And made some quick disconnect leads for the power in. I connected to power and ground directly to the wiring harness via t-taps. I know people have said you can mess up the bcm that way, but considering the leds only draw 40 mA @12V each I wasn't worried about it. Connected ground to number 5 pin on the grey harness. I'll have to apologize, I don't remember which wire I connected in the harness for power. It was late and I was very frustrated. I initially connected to number 14 but I lost some functionality. There was another wire that hade 12v power at all times and I hooked it up there. I believe it was pin number 10. Anyways I hope this helps. I know gm dropped the ball on these truck for interior lighting. Mine are so bright now I have zero issues. Have full view and it's bright enough to see everything. The lights up front don't shine at my eyes, and they light up the floor. I'm not even going to do the floor lamps now! 10/10 upgrade! P.S. I'm going to throw some pictures of the interior up here so you can see the bightness. Don't judge, she's a work truck! Lol ANMBEST 10PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 0-20KHz PWM Adjustment Electronic Switch Control Board Motor Speed Control Lamp Brightness Control https://a.co/d/19L4oGi https://www.ebay.com/itm/292380373219
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It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.
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So the other day i got in the truck and it was dead. Jumped it and good to go. About 3 days later same thing. Once it started I got in the truck and realized none of the lights were working. Headlights, overhead lights, even the dash lights wouldn’t come on. I’ve learned in the past it usually is the TBC fuse. So I pull it. Bam it’s blown. Easy fix… so I thought. I went to put another fuse in and it blows the second it makes contact. Even 30a fuses blow instantly. I know it goes directly to the BCM on my year model and I’ve inspected wires all over my truck and I cannot find a wire that’s grounding out. I dont know if this is a coincidence but I also noticed that my switch button unlock/lock will locks both sides, but when I hit the unlock it only unlocks the passenger side, and the driver side does not make any noise.. so it’s not even attempting… i’ve checked all the driver lock and unlock fuses, and everything is fine. I even swapped them out just to be safe. I even pulled the door off and check the wires to go to the actuator and everything looked good. The real question is is it a chance that was going on with my locks is causing the same issue with the TBC fuse?
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Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com April 12th, 2019 A few months ago we started to notice something on our 2019 Silverado that no owner of a brand new vehicle wants to see. Rust. Specifically on our rear bumper, just around the plastic step. It wasn't huge and didn't spread very far from the edge... but we couldn't stop noticing it. There was no excuse for rust on a 8 month old vehicle with less than 10,000 miles. The photo above shows the minimal but noticeable rust patch. It was even happening on both sides and in the same place. The issue seemed odd. Unfortunately, we've just been too busy to bring it by to our local dealership for them to look at. Lucky for us, our procrastination has paid off, because in the time between us first noticing the problem and getting off our lazy asses to drive to our dealer, GM has released a TSB about this very issue. It appears that on most of the early trucks, production of the bumper was completed incorrectly. The steel assemblies should be bent into shape then chrome plated. But that didn't happen in a small part of the early bumpers. The supplier bent the area around the side step after the bumper was chromed. The new folds in the steel damaged the chrome, cracking it and making the truck susceptible to rusting. What's the fix? If your bumper is rusting already, Chevy and GMC will replace it. If it has not yet started to rust, they will apply an automotive grade wax/sealant to prevent rust in the future. If you're unsure if your 2019 has this issue we suggest doing the following: 1. Give your truck a bath for heavens sake! 2. Clean the rear bumper step area with a hose or pressure washer. Front and back! We find lots of dirt collects behind our step in the bumper assembly. 3. Inspect around the foot step area and behind the foot step area. We found rust in both areas! 4. If in doubt, wait for it to rust and kindly ask for a new rear bumper. Our dealership, Banks Chevrolet in Concord, NH has been great getting our rust issue fixed. Our service adviser Justin has kept us in the loop during the repair and gave us a loaner Silverado LT while they have our truck. He even made sure any other outstanding service updates are also applied to our LTZ while it was in the shop. As it turned out, there were six open issues that needed addressed. Here's the official Service Update you can print out and bring to your dealer when you take your Silverado or Sierra in for service.
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- 2019 silverado
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I was excited last April 2023 when my dealer received the 2024 Denali Ultimate 2500 into inventory. My wife and I took it for a test drive and bought the truck that day. Now it's been nearly one year since we bought it and it's done nothing but disappoint. The truck has been at the dealer for repairs for nearly 3 months with every defect related to electrical or software problems and many of these defects haven't been repaired. I'll start off with some of the benign defects, though for what these trucks cost today these defects shouldn't exist: 1. Infotainment system glitches, it will randomly switch between satellite radio and Android audio, the satellite radio loses the signal repeatedly in the suburbs around Chicago (no mountains here). 2. The tailgate Kicker Audio will not disconnect from my phone when the tailgate is closed and the Kicker radio is supposed to be off. The Kicker radio will occasionally play audio when the tailgate is closed. The dealer says to just unpair the Kicker radio from my phone because they can't explain why this is occurring. 3. The wireless charger in the center console is finicky and slow to charge. 4. The now infamous multipro tailgate drop that has caused body damage to the truck's tailgate on 2 occasions and GM still doesn't have a fix to prevent this from happening. The tailgate dropped on us several times as the truck was being driven down the highway and no warning or indication of an open tailgate was ever displayed on the dash. 5. This truck will occasionally suffer the "dead pedal" syndrome; lack of throttle response. Nothing more worrisome than towing a 10,000lbs trailer and having to pull out of a blind driveway on a mountain road and the truck literally will not accelerate. The truck's ECM has yet to record these events. GM's protocol for recording these types of incidences must be very lax. 6. The truck constantly loses communication with the trailer's brakes, resulting in nothing less than loss of trailer brakes. Oh joy, as you're traveling down Vail Pass (7% grade) and your trailer brakes stop working. The dealer blamed a faulty module for this and states they replaced it. Haven't pulled the trailer since this repair so I can't confirm that the defect still exists or not. 7. The traction control on this truck malfunctions occasionally. The traction control will stop working even though it was not manually turned off. As with the dead pedal, the truck's ECM has not recorded these incidences. 8. The truck will consistently die if it is parked for a period of 9 days or less, dependent on the outside temperature. The dealer states that there is nothing wrong and that this truck has to be, at the very least, started everyday and allowed to idle for 20 minutes in order to keep the batteries charged. The dealer has also stated that GM's testing equipment that they must use in order to verify a warranty claim is predisposed to finding no faults. The math for how long a battery should stay charged enough to start this truck is simple; it's an 80 Ah battery and assuming a minimum electrical draw of 50mA to maximum electrical draw of 80mA while the truck is parked the battery should be able to start this truck anywhere from 44 to 67 days. GM corporate has stated to me that they can't validate that my truck has died on multiple occasions, which I find disingenuous, since one of the times it died it sat in the dealership's lot awaiting unrelated repairs and OnStar was notifying me to start the truck in order to recharge the batteries. Apparently GM doesn't find OnStar credible. GMC is refusing to make this right and thinks that having a new truck out of service for nearly 3 months to date is acceptable. Wondering who else may have been experiencing problems with their 2024 Denali Ultimate. -
General Motors I am beyond disappointed with the customer service I’ve received regarding my truck. I hope my voice gets heard in this matter. June 8th I was enjoying my Saturday, my engine made strange noises when starting my truck and stalled out on me at a light. When I started the truck again it made strange noises and started to smell funny, so I pulled over when suddenly my truck caught on fire. There could have potentially been an explosion injuring or killing me and innocent bystanders. I purchased the truck in February for 45,000$ and haven’t even put 10,000 miles on it. No assistance in putting me in a vehicle since the ordeal. I’ve been paying on the truck and the insurance. Customer service has been very rude to me. They won’t give me any information on the investigation for MY truck stating what caused the fire, however They decided to buyout the vehicle.. still waiting on an offer. I was informed that I won’t be reimbursed for anything I don’t have receipts for. I keep all my receipts in my glove box which caught on fire. Plus there’s many items I travel with that I don’t have receipts for. I had sentimental items in the truck, like a picture of my dad on the dash. Buying out the truck doesn’t cover the down payment I just put on the vehicle in February doesn’t cover all the rides I’ve had to navigate and pay for the past month and 9 days. I’ve been stuck at home all summer, no truck to take my boat out fishing. I am falling into a dark hole I’m depressed. I want my life back. I want to feel like a valued customer. #customerservice #customersatisfaction #GMC #chevy #fire #disappointed #share #like #fypviralシ
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I’m having this issue with my truck. So both fans turn on automatically when I start the truck, also I don’t have no A/C. I replaced my thermostat and temp sensor. That didn’t seem to fix it. I should also include that I did a DOD Delete with a stock non dod cam, it’s tuned and engine works fine. It’s driveable but it’s annoying have no A/C and both fans when I start the truck. Please help! -
Hey Everyone- I have a 2022 AT4 (5700mi) and its it has a shudder/hesitation during steady and/or light throttle acceleration between 25 and 70 MPH. Anyone else experiencing this or has and got it "fixed". Reproduced it for a ride along with the dealer, but need to figure out a plan or approach to fix this. They have mentioned maybe a fuel injector, maybe a new transmission.... Thoughts? Recommendations? Also, what site does everyone use to search for TSB's? -
Sharing experience for your info and any ideas you might have. My shiny new 2021 GMC Sierra Denali 3.0 Duramax Diesel with 4900 miles on it has been losing its mind. I get multiple, rotating DIC messages: “Service ESC”, “Service Parking Brake”, “Service ABS”, “Adaptive Cruise Control Disabled”, “Steering Assist Reduced Drive with Care”, . . . ). The error messages come with other “benefits” besides disabled cruise control. I also enjoy no GPS signal, no Blind Spot sensors, no collision avoidance sensors, and who knows what else. Fortunately, the diagnostic codes were stored so the tech could see them, and I provided video of the DIC messages each time, too. They are on their 4th attempt to repair it now. First time, they replaced the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor (4025920) . Second time, they tried the same thing and replaced the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor, again. The 3rd time, they inspected the engine harness but found no damage so they replaced the pigtail to the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor and followed an 8 hr rest cycle and road test protocol. It worked for about 2 hours after I picked it up, then everything lit up again. This (4th) time, they are saying they will replace the entire wiring harness per GM’s direction. I do not want to use Florida’s Lemon Law, but I am starting the process just to be safe. BTW, I’m also getting the “long-crank/no-start” issue. They just applied the ECM update per TSB for this problem, so we’ll see if that worked when/if I get to keep the truck more than a couple hours between service appointments. I was having issues with the passive locking feature where the truck locks the doors a few seconds after I get out with the key in my pocket. It would not work even when set to on. Now that they did the Infotainment software update (V155) this seems to be fixed. I’m still having false messages that the SD Card for the Navigation System has been removed when it has not been. GM has a bulletin out so they know about this issue, but it appears there is no fix action on this one yet. After looking up each code listed on the repair orders (RO’s), I believe the main harness is a very likely cause of all the DIC error messages and system failures. Otherwise, all those modules and sensors involved have gone bad simultaneously. I suppose a power surge of some kind could do that, but then it seems the modules would not work fine in the short time between repairs. Here are the codes the tech reported on the last two Repair Orders (bold codes where noted on both RO’s): 2/5/22: B1A01 Speaker 1 General Electric Failure B395B Side View Camera Left P1488 Particulate Matter Sensor Protection Tube Performance U0020 Low Speed CAN Bus U0022 Low Speed CAN Communication Bus (+) Low U0077 Control Module Communication Chassis Expansion CAN Bus U0121 Lost Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module U0151 Lost Communication with Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module U0155 Lost Communication with Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module U0184 Lost Communication with Radio Unit U0415 Invalid Data Received From Electronic Brake Control Module U0422 Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module 2/10/22: B0967 Parking Aid On/Off Switch Circuit Short to Ground B1AO1 Speaker 1 General Electric Failure P1488 Particulate Matter Sensor Protection Tube Performance U0077 Control Module Communication Chassis Expansion CAN Bus U0121 Lost Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module U0131 Lost Communication with Power Steering Control Module U0151 Lost Communication with Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module U0184 Lost Communication with Radio Unit U0415 Invalid Data Received From Electronic Brake Control Module U0421 Invalid Data Received From Suspension Control Module U0422 Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module -
Thom Cannell Contributor, GM-Trucks.com February 26th, 2019 General Motors had no news in Chicago, but delivered crowd-pleasing displays from Chevrolet and GMC, as well as Cadillac and their crossovers and SUVs. Of interest to truck enthusiasts were Heavy Duty Chassis Cabs from Ram, facelifts and equipment improvements from Toyota, face-lifts for some Nissan CUVs, a new Range Rover Evoke and more. The Chicago show is immensely different from Detroit, and that is a pun. With 2.3 million square feet of display space, the result is wide-spread (and often poorly lit) displays, indoor off-roading tracks, and worn boot-leather. These are the highlights. Alphabetically, Chevrolet brought its cars, well; they must have been there somewhere, and its new Heavy Duty Silverados, which were abundant in every powertrain and trim. And they brought the Lego Silverado, which is amazing in detail and execution. GMC “stood tall” with its Heavy Duty Sierra walk-under display and great lineup. Cadillac replaced their militaristic all-new XT6 with a gray one; it was better. They do have emotional colors available? Chevrolet Chevrolet spanned much of the North Hall, filling it primarily with trucks, crossovers like the fiercely red Blazer to lead your eyeballs into the display and nearby SUVs, but the focus was on Super Duty. Silverado had pride of position, though the new Traverse was mentioned, as well. From fifty-feet, you’re not convinced this Lego truck isn’t a real Silverado Z71. Even closer, it still fools the eye. Among the Silverados on display was this High Country. The Z71 Heavy Duty proved popular to the dealer, potential buyer, and social media crowd. Green is nice, Red is better, and note the difference in wheels and running boards per model. This is a great juxtaposition, the new Silverado Heavy Duty and its upgraded diesel engine. A perfect pair. We again saw the snow plow in Chicago, this time close enough to crawl beneath for a photo of the no-cutting-required blade attachment system. A pair of close-ups, first the dedicated, and covered, block heater that’s available and a better representation of the two bed steps designed for easy steel-toe boot access. At first glance, in Detroit, the new Blazer didn’t move our emotional needle the way we hoped. Much better in Chicago, with better lighting and blazing red color. It surely fills a needed niche in Chevrolet crossovers; it’s based on a global platform that carries Cadillac’s XT5. GMC GMC brought no new product to Chicago, only a clean, bright and entertaining display. Of note, their walk-under Sierra and the tracked Aspen special we mentioned as debuting in Detroit. Everyone Else Trucks, regardless their size, battle on GVWR, tow ratings, tire size, infotainment screen size (and bigger is always better), and now tailgates. Ram has a split gate that opens larger-left, then right, or folds. Ram offers a pullout entry step for easy entry, signature Ram box, and collapsible internal storage barrier. Ram’s big news—excuse the pun—was its 2019 Ram Chassis Cab; they brought several upfitter modified models as demonstrations, including a luxury fifth-wheel version. With so many ultra-lux 1500s, 2500s and 3500s, why there haven’t been more full-on interiors aimed at horse owners and racecar haulers, is retrospectively a mystery. Ram now offers its most modern interior to Class 3/4/5 upfitters. The chassis is 97-percent High Strength Steel, the diesel engine is an up-rated Cummins 6.7-liter knocking out 800 lb.-ft. of torque and mated to an 8-speed transmission. Not to be left out, Jeep brought a Rubicon version of the new Gladiator. Looks pretty rad to us. You? Land Rover’s latest small SUV/crossover Evoque is externally similar, though the platform is all-new and a bit longer with improved cargo space. Off road technology, which the brand is known for, is improved and the 246-hp Ingenium engine is now mated to a 48-Volt mild hybrid power assist to make 296 eco-friendly horsepower. Toyota debuted TRD Pro upgrades to its Tacoma, RAV4 and Sequoia. RAV4 has barely arrived in dealer showrooms, yet received welcome off road chops thanks to a dedicated suspension, all-terrain tires, all wheel drive, and standard torque vectoring for this RAV4 TRD Off-Road model. Tacoma, the perennial best-selling mid-sized pickup in North America, adds power-adjustable seats in most grades and has improved infotainment systems with 8-inch touchscreens that are smart phone savvy. Performance and glitter items like new grille and wheel designs, sequential LED headlights for the Tacoma TRD Pro model are balanced by new exterior cameras that deliver surrounding terrain views for improved off road safety. Sequoia TRD Pro now offers TRD-tuned Fox Racing off road dampers, plus other greasy-side items and an upgraded leather seat interior. The Land Cruiser Heritage Edition, a USA-specific version, goes the opposite way, shedding its chrome, third-row seats and running boards in favor of bronzed BBS wheels and a clean, subtly badged exterior. Without fanfare, Toyota put what may be future crossover product, the TJ Cruiser, on display to gauge reaction. Feel free to let them know what you think. Ford introduced its Super Duty trucks the week before GM’s similar launch. Their new Super Duty features three engines, the venerable 6.2-liter gas engine, now joined by an all-new 7.3-liter V-8 and third-generation 6.7-liter Power Stroke diesel. The newer motors are paired with a Ford-designed and built 10-speed automatic with optional PTO. Features include a new high-flow grille, Pro Trailer Backup Assist, LED headlamps, and improved trailer tow and payload capacity. Nissan’s 2020 Rogue Sport, not available for several months, offers new grille, refreshed exterior styling, and adds high-level safety features: Nissan ProPILOT and Nissan Safety Shield. Together, that provides owners with automatic emergency braking (AEB) with pedestrian detection, rear AEB, lane departure and rear cross traffic alert, radar-based smart cruise control and high beam assist. ProPILOT tech ““is a single-lane “hands-on” driving assistance technology that eases driver workload by reducing the amount of driver acceleration, steering and braking input under certain driving conditions, such as single-lane highway driving,” or semi-autonomy”, the company says. The Nissan Pathfinder Rock Creek Edition adds 18-inch wheels and some interesting, and functional cosmetics like black over-fenders, black-mesh grille and black roof rails, door handles and exterior mirrors. Inside they’ve added two-tone seating with contrast stitching; functionality includes a Best-In-Class 6,000-pound tow rating.
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Hi just wondering if anyone would be able to help. My truck makes this rattling noice when being accelerated. When it started it wasn't that bad but has progressively got worse. It's worse when it's cold then goes away for the most part once the engine is warmed up. Sounds like it's coming from the front end. Thank you! 20220307_163644.mp4 -
So I'm trying to do the heated/cooled seat retrofit in my 2017 silverado 1500 and I've found a lot of stuff online about how it would be a whole lot of work because of all the extra wiring that the system has, & that it would be almost impossible if you didn't have heated seats to begin with, but I don't accept that & I am determined to make it happen. I've already bought every bit of interior out of this high country which came with the heated/cooled seats, but now that it comes time to actually do the swap I realize that I probably should have done a little more research before spending this much money on this stuff because If pgamboa is correct that means I just wasted $1500, but I'm determined to prove him wrong(no offense if you happen to see this lol). So I guess My main question is, has anyone been able to do this retrofit successfully, to where the heating, cooling, and power all work as designed & so there aren't any airbag lights or other warning lights/messages on the dash? I'm a technician at a gm dealership so I have access to all the wiring diagrams and oem information that I could possibly need, but I'm a little confused as to the hard parts that I will 100% actually need,& I haven't heard of anybody actually doing this successfully with everything working as it should, so I want to make sure it's possible without wasting a whole bunch of time on it to figure it out. The other main concern that I know will need to be done for it to function properly, and the thing I'm most concerned about figuring out, is the programming aspect of it. Obviously the truck will need to be programmed in order for the system to function, but im not quite sure on how to go about doing that, especially since I'm going to be adding new modules entirely since my truck didn't have heated seats to begin with, but would there not be a way to avoid having to do that & just running power and ground to the heated/cooled seats, but still using thd factory buttons to retain the oem look? I mean their pretty much just toggle switches, so really in theory, for for the low setting heat I would think I could just install a resistor between the switch & seats, and could do away with the need for all the modules , I just wouldn't have the memory features or comfort/convince settings that I would if it were programmed correct? That is obvi a worse case scenario type situation if there's just no way to make it work with an aftermarket programmer or something. Which everyone always says something about how if you go that route & end up taking it to a dealership or something & they reprogram the bcm then it would take away all the other features, but since I work at a dealership I can make sure it never has an mdi hooked up to it. It'd be nice if gm would let you program any module to your vehicle if all the appropriate hardware was there & whatnot I really don't understand why they don't allow that, but apparently it's above my pay grade lol. But if anyone has any info om this, or better yet if angone has actually SUCCESSFULLY done this, please help ya boy out with some info! Please & thanks In advance! -
Hello, about 7 months ago I smoked my 6l80 transmission, removed it with the transfer case still attached last fall, before removing it I made the mistake of putting the transfer case (RPO code NQH) into neutral to aid with removing the rear driveshaft. Fast forward to about a month ago I finally had time to reinstall a new (rebuilt) transmission, upon reinstalling everything I noticed that my transfer case shift knob was not responsive and had no lights (other than on startup when it does a function check or whatever) I got a few wiring diagrams and checked over the whole system, replaced the transfer case actuator motor and the knob on the dash, still cannot get the POS to respond and do something. At a loss with this truck and contemplating scrapping it, it's had 4 motors, and 1 transmission in 126k miles, let alone over 30k in parts and labor. I recently got laid off and buying a fancy scan tool and/or having it sent to a shop is *NOT AN OPTION*. I desperately need advice and or assistance as to WTF I should do with this POS that has been nothing but problematic since day one. below I have sent all the PDF pages I have used to trace and track wiring schematics.
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Looking for some advise on what to try next to fix an unknown issue with my 2015 Sierra. 190k Miles L83. New transmission at 140k. A couple months ago I had a studder while the engine was put underload at low RPM in high gears. Mostly only noticeable with highway driving. Feels like the ignition kicks out for a split second truck jerks hard then I have to let out of it and downshift to high RPM where engine is not under as much load. The issue has been slowly getting worse and happening at less and less load. I can hear an audible breakup coming from the engine bay and exhaust notes. I started small and replaced plugs and wires, ran a can of seafoam through a 1/4 of a tank, ran seafoam in oil for 30 minutes at idle, then did an oil change with a quart of marvel and ran that for another 30 in hopes to clear a possible stuck DOD lifter. All with no changes. I reached out to a GM tech who told me its likely a stuck DOD lifter so I went ahead and replaced all the lifters and cleaned up in carbon on the injectors while I was in there. Still not changes. I am thinking the only logical next step is to replace the coils because it sounds like a ignition issue. But before I go throwing more money at this I would like to see if anyone has any other input. Thanks in advance! -
I recently purchased the 1988 GMC Sierra k1500 350 four-wheel drive extended cab long bed with 155.5 wheel span, I'm trying to find the engine transmission and transfer case codes to no luck the transmission gear shift says L123, can anyone help me as to figure out what I have
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Okay guys I bought this truck from a dealership in September. It was used and I got a 30 Day warranty. After the 30 day period, this is what’s happening. I got in my truck and noticed a rough idle. My truck would shake and out of no where the check engine light starts flashing and my traction control light comes on. I took it to my buddies and we got a P0308 Misfire Detected Cylinder 8. So I did some research.. I also had a code which was P219B. Air/fuel mixture ratio. I changed the spark plugs.. didn’t work. I moved coil packs.. the misfire didn’t move. So we watched Live data on the scanner and injector 7 was acting up. So we replaced all the injectors on that side and this truck is still missing.. I’ve ran seafoam through it and cleaned the throttle body and MAS. My buddy things I have a valve issue or something wrong with the cylinder… there is no AFM deleted or anything of that sort. The truck has worked flawlessly until now. 135,000 miles on it. The rocker arms all looked great. please someone give me something to try. I just want my truck fixed lol. posting a link below of what it’s doing… -
Vehicle Details 2023 GMC Sierra Denali with a LZ0 3.0L Duramax Diesel. It has 7,300 miles in total. Issue DEF Level indicator not reporting proper fluid level. At startup, with DEF tank full, the center dash display shows “DEF Range 200 mi”. If the level drops by one gallon below full, the display shows “DEF Level Empty” and you can not use any of the other center dash displays. It locks the display and only shows “DEF Level Empty”. Appointment With Dealer After arriving for my appointment and explaining the above for the second time, 1 hour and 20 minutes, they said I was all set. They didn’t perform SB # 22-NA-150. They reset the DEF system and cleared its data. This seems to have corrected the issue, but I’m not confident that this is a long-term solution. The DEF level indicator still is reading less than full when the tank is, like it will show no higher than ¾ full. Anyone else having this issue? Any long term fix?
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Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com March 22nd, 2019 The all new Chevy Suburban & Tahoe along with the all new GMC Yukon have been caught testing on public roads once again. We've licensed these images so we can show you the very first look at production lighting for these future 2020 model year vehicles. The last time we saw pre-production models of GM's full-size SUVs was last fall when the 2020 Tahoe and Yukon were caught on film for the first time. This time, the trucks look more complete and almost ready for action. Here's what our spy photographer has to say about the 2020 Suburban, Tahoe and Yukon: And here are the images:
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Hi everyone, first time posting, but long time reader. I usually try to avoid posting when I can, and just browse the threads and read about related problems and figure it out from there. Even though I've found many threads that are similar to the problem Im having, I still can't narrow it down to my next step. so if anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated. Ok so, BAD oil leak problem with my friends 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. It's had this leak for a while, but it's gotten to the point now where it's starting to leave puddles. I power washed the entire area, and I actually got it pretty clean. Today when I looked again to see if I could trace the source, I had a much clearer picture of where the leaks are actually coming from. From what I've read it seems as though it could be the valve cover gasket, the crankshaft sensor, the rear main seal, or even the oil pan gasket. My problem is that to me, it looks like it's coming from almost all these places. I looked inside the bell housing and I don't see it looking completely soaked in oil. It does however, look like the leak is mainly coming from in front of the bell housing behind the engine, in between the two. I'll attach some pictures. These would be from overnight after I power washed it, so the oil hasn't blown anywhere from being driven or anything. Thanks so much to anyone who's got any ideas!
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Engine swapping a 2011 Gmc Sierra 1500 Crew cab 4wd engine into a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 1LT I need to know if this is possible, and what would be required to do so. Please tell me any information you know about this if possible or if not. I am trying to a put the 2011 gmc sierra 1500 engine into the 2006 chevy 2500 hd. I am trying to figure what needs to be done to do the switch, Is it possible to just drop it in and use a computer or do i need to retune something. I just need to know what needs to be done, tools needed, and if its even worthwhile. Vin numbers 2006 - 1GCHK23U66F166410 2011 - 3GTP2VE33BG225875 -
Hello, I would like some help with my GMC Sierra 1500 2017. Recently, my vehicle has been displaying several codes: - U1510 K9 body control module lost communication with B67 ultrasonic intrusion sensor - P228C - P050D - P0089 someone help me?
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I have done a lot of research in preparation for this mod, and there are not any how to guides on this so I figured I would make one! First things first is the parts list. Below is what is required for this mod. Window (includes regulator): 84819603 GM list is $735. I found mine new on Facebook Marketplace for $150 so do some shopping around or they can be found used on car-part.com for much less but make sure it includes the regulator. Motor and mount assembly (they are sold together): 23490454 GM List is $89.13. Perhaps can be found used cheaper but not a bad price from GM. I got mine from Ebay. Overhead Console with switch: I recommend finding this used because often junkyards leave the harness intact which you will need. I got mine on Ebay. Side benefit the Homelink is plug and play so if your truck didn't come with it like mine you now have it. Rear Window Lower Garnish Molding (Main longer piece): 22817432 Right Rear Window Garnish Molding: 22817430 *These are not required if you are handy with a Dremel Next is the harness and fuse tap I used. This is an aftermarket harness that I modified to extend the length I needed. Universal Power Window Harness: https://amzn.to/3Kz1qyK Micro Fuse Tap: https://amzn.to/47ls08b Once you have gathered your parts contact a local shop to install your window. Next you will need to figure out your trim. There are 2 ways to do this. You can buy the trim from GM or just trim a little off your factory ones. This is the route I took. Just line it up where is should fit, put some painters tape on mark it and with a carful hand just trim it and it looks just like stock. Next you’ll need to mount your motor and regulator assembly. Below are some pics I found online of a factory truck. Once that is all mounted up its time for wiring. Using the Universal Harness and factory switch is fairly easy. Here is a diagram. The GM switch is pinned out just like the aftermarket harness I linked. The factory switch and pigtail should come with the overhead panel just cut off the connector and splice it in. I routed the grounds together and self-tapped them into the truck by the fuse box. The power is ran to the fuse box (with an inline fuse) and tapped into key on power. Depending on your truck you may or may not have some of the options used to tap into. Below is a link to a great website you can poke around and figure out what fuse works best for your truck. https://www.startmycar.com/us/chevrolet/silverado-1500/info/fusebox Finally run 2 wires back to the motor. I ran mine through the headline and down the passenger rear trim. Once everything is connected you should have a working power rear window! [img]https://i.imgur.com/6dQKvXy.mp4[/img] -
Picked her up in June 2023
