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Showing results for tags 'electrical issue'.
Found 18 results
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I have a 2024 GMC Sierra 3500 Denali. When pulling my fifth wheel, the auto lights come on and the trailer running lights stop working. I have had the trailer checked multiple times- a short was found in the box once, but even after fixing the short, the lights worked fine until the auto lights kicked on and it stopped working again. The trailer works with an older truck. I have replaced all trailer related fuses and I’m wondering if the new truck is just so smart it is shutting those down because they pull a little too much amperage. Anyone else have this specific problem? -
I have a 1974 k10, 350sbc, sm465, I went to start my truck tonight, lights came on fan was running, but when I went to start it, it clicked a few times and all power shut off in the truck. Power came back after letting sit but had the same issue when I tried it again. Battery and starter are new, I suspect a bad cable. anyone have this issue in the past? Any help is appreciated! -
i put my truck in 4 hi yesterday while on a service road. drove for bout 5 miles. stopped dis in gauged back to 2hi put in rev rolled back stopped. put in drive n drove away. now the dash 4wd light stays on for the most part . turns off sometimes when i turn right but generally just stays on. mine is a 2017 1500 wt. manual in gauge 4x4. it does go in an out of 4wd fine but the dash light doesnt and its annoying me ? any ideas what or were to look or start? i did go through a few large puddles so moisture may be my,an idea? or loose wire connection to a sensor? any and all help much appreciated. thanks
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Hi people, I am having an issue with driver door not locking or unlocking with either the door switch or keyless entry remote on drivers side front door. I hear the relays in the fuse box click. The passenger door unlock and locks fine. I have replaced the drivers door actuator and the door switch but still not fixed. I am stumped! I tested the fuses that say lock 2 and unlock 2 and noticed there is only power to them after I hit switch or fob, otherwise theres no power. Im guessing the relays have to click to send power to fuses. Please can someone help? The driver lock doesnt even engage to lock when I put it in drive or unlock when I put into park. -
Hi All, I've scoured the forums, and have tried some of the ideas with similar symptoms, but of course, I can find nothing exactly like mine. 2004 Silverado 1500 5.3L. Recent snow storm resulted in not starting the truck for several weeks, and the battery died. I ended up jumping and getting it to the auto parts store. The whole drive, the DIC was all green squares, and none of the gauges worked (but the lights did). I replaced the battery, and I suspect the ~10 minutes disconnecting the battery "reset" the gauge. Worked fine on the drive home. About a week later, I hooked up a 4wire trailer, and returned, leaving the trailer attached as I parked. The next day I went out and started the truck, the symptoms were back: All green squares in DIC and the gauge LIGHTS worked, but no actual movement of the gauges. I went back and unplugged the 4wire trailer, shut off and turned on the truck, and all was well. So at this phase, I was suspecting a wiring/grounding issue with my 7wire/4pin harness. With the trailer disconnected, the gauges worked fine. I let the truck sit for a couple days, did not connect a trailer or change anything from the last time I drove (when all was well) and the issue has re-presented itself. The major issue is that the green DIC lights will not go off. I'm having to pull the fuse to avoid them entirely draining the new battery. Some notes about my circumstance: -Cluster was professionally rebuilt by reputable service in 2020 - all steppers replaced -the cruise control stopped working late last year; the odd thing is it WOULD WORK if a 7pin trailer was attached. Weird. -I've checked the grounding as best as I can with a lift right now, but it seems more like a parasitic draw somewhere, or power backfeeding from somewhere I've checked the instrument panel fuse and have replaced it, although it was not blown. No change to issue I would appreciate any help or clues on where to look next. Picture attached is with the keys out of ignition. The lights are just on eternally =(
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Hi guys, just looking for some advice. The issue: I recently had my battery replaced and shortly after this was done my low beams (both sides) quit working. The next day my stereo started turning off and on again, and there's a message on the dash saying "service theft deterrent system" with the lock symbol. I can still drive it though (not at night) and it doesn't lock me out. I checked the fuses and relay for the low beams and they seem fine. I haven't checked the bulbs yet but it seems too coincidental that both would go out at the same time, though I could be wrong. In case this is relevant info: I had the battery replaced a month ago via AAA, but it turned out to be from a bad batch. It died after a few weeks while I was conveniently at a local shop getting a wheel alignment, so the mechanic there jumped it twice (once to get it onto the rack and another to get it back in the parking lot). They showed me how the interior lights were flickering before shutting it off (I didn't see the headlights at that point). AAA replaced the battery in the lot after that since it was under warranty. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'll take it to a mechanic next week but I wanted to do some research first to see if there's an easy fix I may have missed. Truck is a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE. Thanks! Caitlin -
U0100 Lost communication with ECM U0073 CAN Bus Communication P2544 Transmission Torque Request Signal Message Counter Incorrect P0700 Transmission Control Module Requested MIL Illumination P1682 Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 Good Morning Yall, Long time lurker, first time poster as a member, and really appreciate this forum. Recently the past year I have had some symptoms that didn’t affect the drivability of my 2014 Silverado z71 4x4 5.3, but were very present on a random basis, especially during rain. Service Stabilitrak, Service Trailer Brake(nothing being towed) popping up the screen, sometimes binging back to back for extended amounts of time near to 30 minutes frequently. Today the truck would not start, and presented these codes above under a check engine light. The truck started after having the battery disconnected for 15 minutes and has started since so far the previous 12 hours. Also while driving and the typical service notifications, one headlight being out, the truck engages the transmission at a slow roll/acceleration and a very very rough/lurching, almost feels like being rear-ended engagement, it would not engage power steering, and also presented a warning of reduced engine power. Some of these symptoms of course seem to be directly related to the codes, but seem to have progressed as time has gone on. One issue noticed was a tail light having a small crack, and a sliver of water pooled inside of it. I am unsure if that may be related to the issues present, but I have ordered new lamps. I have also previously installed a new ground cable from the battery to the block, and also verified the ground on the driver-side front beneath the dash/tweeter. The battery also tested good, so did all of the fuses on the battery side and the box side with the voltmeter. I have not checked the starter or alternator, but they are less than a year old. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Ben -
I have been trying to wire up a new stereo for my 2005 express, and I have already cut the factory harness (oops). The problem I have is that I cannot find out where the accessory wire is, and consequently the new unit will not shut off with the car because it's only wired to the 12v constant. I gave tried to use a multimeter to find the accesory wire by having the key in the on position and seeing which wire reads 12v, but the only wire I get a reading for is the 12v constant wire. Anybody know which wire is the accessory wire? Or whether there even is one? -
Hi All, First post on the forum here so let me know if more info is needed. Was recently putting a new set of headers on the truck and decided that at 200k+ miles, I should replace the starter. My hope was to avoid having to pull the headers when it did eventually go out. I purchased a reman of the OEM part (GM Genuine Parts 323-1637 Starter, Remanufactured). Part went in no problem and I also replaced the heavy gauge wire to the battery as well as the smaller gauge wire to the ignition switch. All was functional for the first week or two, when I turned it over and got nothing... No clicks, but the battery had power, dash lights looked good. I hooked a power pack up and it started no problem. Thought it was a fluke or I left a light on, but after having a no-crank condition maybe one out of 15 times that I start it, there is definitely something going on. Here's the weird part... every time that it does not start, I eventually get it to start with no changed conditions. I've tried starting it in neutral which worked the first time, didn't work the second. Another time I screwed with the battery terminals and it started, one other time I just sat there for a minute or two after no-crank and it started. Battery tested fine but havent taken a multi-tester down because it's been starting anytime I am home. Any ideas?
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Symptoms: (1) Driver’s side window sometimes (infrequent) will not stop going up and down when I want it to just go up or just go down--until you hold the up button position for several seconds--then it's ok; (2) Mystery pinging/chimes while driving with no warning light illuminated on dash (infrequent—no consistent conditions and no known cause or issue) (3) Intermittent starting issues. Tapping on the battery junction box and jiggling battery wires seems to solve the problem so truck starts. Intermittent starting issues don’t appear to be related to driving weather, humidity, ambient temps where truck is stored, or number of miles driven. When truck finally starts, system resets as if a new battery was just installed (e.g., clock changes time). Status: New battery was just installed by dealership when I took truck in for routine oil change. Mechanic said battery was dead and truck wouldn’t start (yeah—probably the same intermittent starting problem I had been experiencing but forgot to tell them about--I also neglected to ask them if they actually checked the battery cells to see if the battery was indeed "dead"). Old battery had not been giving me issues relative to being “dead” although I did have a few start issues, so I never thought there was a battery problem. So the battery does not seem to be the root cause since the start issues are still happening even with a new one installed. I’m afraid the dealership will ream me for checking everything and insisting that I buy 5 new parts in the hopes that one of them will “fix” the issue. As a female, I'm already at a disadvantage for being lied to (it's happened in the past). Things to Check?: Starter? Starter solenoid? Wires to the starter? Water infiltrating negative battery cable and rotting it out? Replace both the positive and negative side battery cables? I checked the fuses including relay and all appeared to be ok. Would a bad junction box be something to check? Worried to even drive the truck at this point for fear it won't start even with my tinkering with it in a parking lot. Found these things to check on another blog--maybe get these things checked? Blown 57 or 62 fuse in underhood fuse box; damaged wires or bad ground connections to various switches (e.g., P/N switch; IMS; TCM); bad switches... If I go to an auto repair place, can I ask them to check specific things or do I have to be at their mercy for checking everything and them guessing but telling me something has to be replaced--based on their guess? -
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Does anyone with an early 90s model truck have a picture of what wires & connectors plug in to this brake light switch?
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Okay so does anyone have an idea how to fix my fuse box? The problem is I'm missing the internal connectors to plug the fuses into. Its my two power fuses, someone must've ripped them out to hard.
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Hey guys, need some serious help... I was revving my engine on my 2008 Silverado and heard what sounded like a fuse popping from the dash and now my shift indicator doesn't show which gear I'm in and my reverse lights do not illuminate. My odometer works fine, and the gears are illuminated, just not the square that highlights which gear I'm in. It's not even highlighting the P when in Park. It's just gone. The truck cranks and drives fine other than that, you just have to feel for which gear you're in. I've just changed out the Neutral Safety Back-Up Switch on the side of the transmission thinking that was the culprit, but no change. I've gone over every fuse and relay. Something else odd is that there's a loud relay-like clicking sound coming from my steering column now when I press the brake, which wasn't even noticeable prior. I called a cluster repair service to see if that maybe the problem and they said my cluster is fine, that it's my shift indicator sensor. I have no idea what that means, as I can't find any part on my truck named that, unless he was referring to the NSBU sensor. Any help would GREATLY be appreciated. I'm losing my mind over this.
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On my '03 4.3L Silverado 1500 LS there is a ground strap from the front frame cross member to the rack and pinion power steering box where the pressure lines connect. The ground is a 12 ga. wire factory install approximately 14 inches long and insulated. There is no other electrical around it that could energize it. I had starting issues and looked under the truck and saw that this wire had been severed (or burned Open?). I replaced it with a 12 ga. copper wire and the truck started fine. After about 5 miles I saw smoke coming from under the hood. It was the insulation from the ground wire I had replaced being burned off. I cannot find any information on the purpose of this ground wire. I do not see any references to it or pictures in my Chilton's manual. Horn works and no check engine light or any other warning lights or error messages. The truck now runs without it. Can anyone tell me the purpose of this ground?
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New to forum, any help is greatly appreciated. I have an 05 crew cab 4wd that I bought from a neighbor a year ago. Truck is perfect except for the issue stated above. Ive never had an issue on startup, actually replaced battery and alternator with new upgraded units as Ive installed speakers/ subs professionally installed, so I believe those can be ruled out. Ive noticed this issue happens around every other gas tank, will be driving normal and out of nowhere the radio turns off, a few lights will come, service 4wd message shows up, all the smaller gauges will go to empty (see pic) A/c will still blow just not at temperature... and a few lights turn on. The truck will still drive like normal with power steering and all. This lasts about a minute, and then automatically restores back by itself, turning off all the lights/codes except the pass-lock that comes on in the top right (see pic) and this as well turns off once i use the truck again. Any idea on what could be causing this?
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Hello, I just want to say that I'm glad to be a part of this site. I have owned over 100 cars, trucks, motorcycles and boats in my 57 years but find myself in need of information about them. Electrical issues have never been easy for me and I hope to learn a little bit about them. If I can lend any info to anyone please feel free to ask. Thanks again, IceInTheBack...
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So my heated seats work great in the summer but they seem to go on vacation in the Bahamas or something once the temp drops to where one would need the heat. PLEASE HELP (MY REAR END WILL THANK YOU WHEN IT GETS COLD )
