Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'drivetrain'.
Found 9 results
-
Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
-
Hello, I have a 2018 Silverado, around 11000 miles on it. Driving the other day, lost power around 35 mph, pulled into a parking lot, re started the truck and checked to make sure I was in 2wd etc. Began driving again, toward home due to something being wrong and same issue occurred including check engine light. Had vehicle towed Friday night when it happened, at dealer now which isn't open until tomorrow. Has anyone experienced anything similar? -
I have a 2003 GMC Z71 and at low rpm there is a winning noise I put in netruel wile costing reved up no noise pit back and ease in throttle and the winning noise starts again funny is that it is perfectly siinked with throttle when in gear and rolling but in n no noise on rev
-
Good morning, So I'm finally going to reach out to my fellow Silverado and Sierra owners. I have been dealing with a harmonic vibration issue with my 2014 Silverado crew cab 5.3 2WD for around 5 months. I have taken my truck into 3 different dealers to only have the driveshaft replaced under the powertrain warranty and it fixed about 40% of my vibration issue. The vibration can be felt in the gas pedal, steering wheel, seat, and it can be heard. It sounds a lot like a phasing boom. The dealer that replaced the driveshaft has said they now believe its my "CHEAP hancook tires" but I can duplicate the vibration with the truck supported on jack stands under the axle housing (not changing the pinion angle) with the wheels removed. Now with the wheels removed the vibration is not as bad but its still the same vibration I'm experiencing. One dealer told me I have a bent axle but I don't have any wobble side to side with the wheel on. the driver side wheel does look like it has a highspot with the wheel installed (you can swap wheels with the same results). the tech that replaced the driveshaft said he checked the axles and the checked out okay... Now I have yet to get a good dry warm day to throw a dial indicator on it myself to check but I wanted to check with yall and see what you think. the next nice day I get I plan on pulling the diff cover and taking a look inside. but any help would be much appreciated. I took it in to see about trading back into a Toyota and they didn't want to give me hardly anything for it and the new TRD Tacoma I drove just seemed so cheap for the $36,xxx they wanted for it. My Silverado has a lot more features plus im a fan of the LS engines so I plan on trying to resolve this issue before I try to trade it again. vibration is felt from 20-70+mph the worst is 55-65mph. running boards have been removed, new trans mount, new complete driveshaft. tires have been rotated and the vibration is still coming from the rear center of the truck. Vibrates in V4 & V8, and in neutral. I also have a case opened with GM on this issue since October 2018 so it's well documented. 2014 Silverado LT 5.3L 6l80e 2WD crew cab. (built in the mexico plant) 87,XXX MILES. Please keep the stupid comments to yourself. I just want to get this issue resolved so I can enjoy this truck.
-
Hi, I’ve got a 2015 5.3 litre v8 crew cab Silverado 4X4 with about 70 000 km on it and on 3 occasions there has been a loud bang coming from the rear of the truck when pressing the gas pedal to take off (after being parked). It’s only ever done it after being parked for a couple hours or overnight. Doesn’t do it when driving around stopping at stop signs or stoplights. Thought it was ice and snow build up at first because we have had mild then cold weather, but this morning when I pressed the gas the truck didn’t even try to move, which was followed by another bang and then the truck was fine. Only thing different I noticed afterwords was a very slight vibration on a section of road where there was no vibration before (but roads are kinda rough here, it’s hard to tell between road and truck vibration). The stupid truck was in the shop for an inspection 3 months ago so it’s not like I’ve been neglecting it. I’m trying to figure out what it could be in order to make the best call on whether or not to park it until I can get it in to get it looked at, which will probably be a week or 2. I’ve done a lot of googleing but can’t find anything making a loud bang-mostly just clunks. I don’t consider this noise a clunk at all. It makes my dog get up from laying down. It’s comparable to the decibel your vehicle makes when you hit a huge pothole and your first thought is oh ****. I had my previous truck until it was 10 years old and it had its share of clunks, whines and rattles but nothing like this. Have you had issues with the infamous driveline clunks, worn u joints, binding slip yoke, or broken rear diff parts? Have any of them sounded this loud? I got distracted from this post for a bit and was doing more googleing. Found 2 post suggesting it’s the rear diff. Not good. Any thoughts? -
Hi there - new guy from Ohio, but not new to GM trucks. I currently have a '95 K2500 6.5TD, '01 Sierra 2500HD 6.0L, '05 Suburban, '05 Tahoe (sacrificial anode). I've had a link to this thread for long while, but haven't joined the forum until today to discuss this. I called our local dealer to get a price on the slip yoke I need for this issue - actually, mine doesn't make a noise, just feels like the drivetrain slumps off every time I go to move from a stop. I greased it years ago when I was replacing the pinion seal and I think it went away, but it wasn't really all that bad, then. Now it's worse and feels awful to drive, so I want to fix. I called the local dealership and after running my VIN, they told me the yoke I needed was 89058878, but it's only $125, my cost. Is there a chance it's not nickel plated? The rest I've seen are approaching the $300 mark for the nickel plated OEM part.
-
I have a 2015 Yukon Denali, it is lifted with 35’s, the lift has about 1500 miles on it now, I have had no issues up until recent. The issue is I’m getting a pretty loud metal on metal clacking or tapping noise from some where in the front diff or transmission. It is most predominate from speeds 30mph down to about 10mph. The noise will start when I let off the gas while driving to coast or slow down, it will do it intermittently at higher speeds but not near as much but it is the same issue for sure. It seems like it starts after I let off the gas and the rpms drop down to around 1200 or less in a coast. The noise will start off not as loud and progressively get louder if I coast without touching the gas. As soon as i touch the gas the noise will go away, it does not do this in manual mode only in automatic. I have had the lift looked over multiple times and now I don’t think it has anything to do with it other than the additional Strain may have caused and already underlying problem to become more profound. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated! -
Hello everyone, I recently bought this clean title, high mileage 2000 Silverado LS Z71 from my coworker. It was right before Christmas and I really wanted to help the guy out knowing full well I could do something with it. Heck, I needed a truck after all. I get home and attempt to drain the oil but nothing comes out. After some poking around with a screwdriver, I get it to drain. Chunks are flowing along with the oil and it turns out there was so much sludge build up in the bottom of the pan, it sucked some up, suffered a momentary loss of oil pressure and spun the bearing. I know the transmission had a hard shift from first to second. Could it be low fluid? Maybe, but why do the swap just to find out the transmission is bad? My coworker friend was a smoker and it appears he preferred his coffee without a lid so the interior is....interesting. Also truck only has oxidation on the hood and fenders so the only reasonable choice was to find a salvaged donor vehicle to source parts from!! I have a buddy with a dealers license and I'm debating picking up this rear ended 2006 Escalade for a FULL front end/interior/dash/drivetrain swap. Can it be done? Plug and play? Anything someone doing something like this should know? I've done some pretty crazy engine swaps and garage rebuilds, 2 stroke porting early on, etc. I have the ability but hopefully you folks can chime in and confirm whether or not it is possible or if there is a better option. I was also looking at a 2004 Duramax/6speed which was t-boned pretty good as a potential candidate but there's something about that plush Escalade interior....
-
Hey guys, I want to work on my truck and upgrade it but i dont know what i should do. What are some things you have done to your engine and drive train to enhance performance and add durability? *I drive a 2014 LTZ 5.3
