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Hello Everyone. I wanted to start this thread with saying that I am new to this forum and new to the Silverado Truck. I have owned many Tahoes & Suburbans in the last 15 years. This is my 1st Silverado. My truck is a 2016 Silverado 1500 LT - Crew Cab. Came with the standard DL8 Mirrors. Power Adjust and Heated. Had I known the differences between trim levels, I would have gone with the LTZ Model. Lesson Learned. Like those that have this trim level, I wanted to convert from DL8 to DL3 Mirror with Turn Signal and Power Fold. I found a set on eBay that came with the harnesses that were take offs from a 2015 Silverado Duramax 2500HD. I bit the bullet and bought them. Like everyone who has tried this - I ended up with the same results. Installed new mirrors, harnesses, and switch. The only thing that worked were Turn Signals and Puddle Lamps for both mirrors. I was only able to get up/down adjust on the driver's side, no control on the passenger side whatsoever, no power fold functionality. I spent the last two weeks reading up on the GMUpfitter Manual trying to understand why. After seeing the various connectors for the Mirror, Door Trim, and Door Hinge Connections, I realized why things didn't work. Like others, I realized that this was NOT a plug and play scenario. However, after spending the time, I was FINALLY able to get this conversion done. I have functional DL3 Mirrors on both Driver and Passenger sides. I have Turn Signals, Puddle Lamp, Power Adjust, Power Fold, and Heated. All using the Factory Switch. I don't have Auto Dimming (which is dependent on a circuit that is tied to the Auto Dimming Rear View Mirror that i don't have) and Reverse Tilt (from what I've read, requires BCM Programming to have that option in the DIC). I also don't have Power Fold when locked/unlocked with the Key Fob (also think this may be a BCM program option). I ended up doing a Connector - Cross Reference Sheet to compare what pins/wires were missing from each connector, for each door, between the new harness and the original harness. I quickly learned that the new harness had more pins loaded than the original harness. Since the new harness had the most pins loaded, I wanted to continue with the new harness, and use my original harness as the "donor" harness to acquire the missing wires/pins from. Some of these connections will require a splice. This process requires no wires going through door hinge and no BCM programming. There are (3) Connectors from the Driver's Side and the same (3) Connectors from the Passenger Side that you will need to focus on. Driver Side Connectors - X500, X505, X510 Passenger Side Connectors - X600, X605, X610 Pages 1521 - 1548 in the GM Upfitter Manual shows the detailed pin out and circuits for references. In my cross reference sheet, I include the part #'s that I have for both existing harnesses and the new harnesses. You will also see the missing pins from each harness, each connector. The new bezel switch part # is 23154702. After checking all the pins that I had loaded on the new harnesses, I came to the realization that these DL3 Mirrors came off of a truck that also have the Seat Memory Switch. A couple of the circuits are dependent of the Seat Memory Switch which would explain some of the different options on the pin out. i went down the road of thinking I could add the Seat Memory Switch and gain additional functionality. The problem is - The door trim panel connector doesn't have all the pins for the Seat Memory Switch to function. OK - So now I've concluded that I cannot have Seat Memory functionality without a new door trim harness connector (that only seems to come with a new door panel w/memory package). I wasn't looking at spending $400 for a new panel. I want to say that the most painful part in this whole process, was harvesting the missing wires/pins that I needed to load onto the new harness without damaging them. Also, when inserting the wires/pins into the new harness, you have to be ABSOLUTELY sure you are inserting it into the right pin and the right circuit. Once you insert it, you CANNOT remove it (unless you have the right pin removal tool) or cut it. I meticulously labeled EVERYTHING to avoid this confusion and wanted this to be as Factory as possible. Once I removed the wires/pin, I starting losing track of what they were, where they go, and where they came from. I labeled each end. Once I started cutting into the existing harness, I was at a point of no return. Please do this at your own risk! Here is the Cross Reference Connector Sheet I made to show all the connections. Connector Reference.pdf Here are some photos of the process: After I was all through, I rewrapped the harness with "friction tape" bought from Home Depot. It is the same tape that was used on the harness. If you have any questions, please let me know. Please note that while pins/wires were missing on one end of a connector, there were already loaded on the other end. Due to the "options" of the Seat Memory switch, some wires went to different places that ended up getting "abandoned" since I chose not to go the Seat Memory route. I had to splice into existing pins/wires that were already loaded due to this. Good Luck! Hope this helps those who have tried or are trying to get this done! It IS possible, just requires some work and patience. Side_by_side by pgamboa, on Flickr IMG_4482 by pgamboa, on Flickr IMG_4481 by pgamboa, on Flickr Wires-Pins_Labeled by pgamboa, on Flickr Wires-Pins_Inserted_labeled_3 by pgamboa, on Flickr Wires-Pins_Inserted_labeled_2 by pgamboa, on Flickr Spliced_Butt_Splice by pgamboa, on Flickr Spliced_Heat_Shrink by pgamboa, on Flickr IMG_4524 by pgamboa, on Flickr Connector Reference.pdf Connector Reference.pdf Connector Reference.pdf- 142 replies
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