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Showing results for tags 'c1500'.
Found 6 results
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Definitely stuck!! CODE 32 ob1 gm code the truck is idling really rough (sometimes sounds like it has bigger cams but it doesn’t), it stalls out with a quick snap open of acceleration, fuel mileage has down, loss power. I have a new 350 TBI CRATE engine coming I’m just trying to make sure I won’t have the code 32 issue with the new engine. had a code for an O2 sensor code so I replaced it and it hasn’t been an issue since ive replaced the EGR VALVE and the Solenoid, still was having the issue. So I replaced the MAP, TPS, and IAC valve, figured that would help. Still was having issues. I then replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter and ran a fuel injection service. That helped out a little bit but was still having the code 32 issue. I then replaced the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold, Evap purge solenoid and vapor canister. That seemed to help out with my fuel economy. I’ve checked for any signs of a vacuum leak using carb cleaner to try and find the leak. I sprayed all the vacuum lines, intake manifold and throttle body and couldn’t find any source of leak. I’ve pushed on the diaphragm of the egr with the truck idling and it definitely changed idle states so I know the passages are clear. I checked the egr solenoid for correct power and measured 12v. WHERE DO I GO FROM HERE?
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Is it possible to fit a rear flip kit from a 94 Sierra c1500 onto a 94 k2500 Sierra? If not can someone tell me if ways I can lower my k2500! -
So I’ve got a 95 Chevrolet c1500 pickup. I just put a new engine in it like two months ago. I have been trying to get the ac working since it’s over 100 degrees where I live. I bypassed the pressure clutch switch with paper clip and the clutch kicked on. So I got get a new switch thinking that will fix it with a can of Freon. Only used one can. While I was putting the Freon in the clutch started turning but it didn’t stay turning. It would cut on and off repeatedly. So I go pull the ac relay fuse out from under the hood and thinking I might have a bad relay. I did the paper clip thing again but I didn’t turn off the truck so it made a small spark and the clutch stopped turning all together. So I went in the truck and turned the fan and ac off. I found out that since the spark when I turn the fan on it automatically turns the ac off. And the there isn’t hardly any air flow coming out of vents but you can hear the fan cut on. If the fan is off the ac is on and the clutch is short cycling but will not stay on when I turn the fan on. I need helppppp. Did I short out the blower motor relay or what?
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I have a 1993 GMC Sierra C1500 v6 4.3L with an automatic transmission and i have tried replacing the distributor cap, router button, spark-plugs and the module that sits under the distributor cap but nothing works it just rolls tries to kick and if it does start it dies instantly. also when trying to start it smoke rolls out of the throttle body I have no clue how to fix this -
Hey, all! I have a question for anyone who know's there stuff about adding HP / Trq to 5.7 350 trucks, and thanks in advance for you info! Truck is: 1998 C1500 single cab, SWB, Sport 350 (5.7). Truck is 99% stock, only added dual cherry bomb glasspacks. Has 205k miles and still runs great, doesn't burn oil, doesn't smoke or knock, etc. Transmission is Muncie and is about ~2 years old. If I have about 2 grand to drop on it to add some HP/Trq what's the best bang for buck? I've been searching around and have been thinking: 1. have it rebuilt into a 383 stroker with an Eagle / Scat kit. That'd almost certainly wipe out all the funds right there, but could add some HP/TRQ and provide a better base to build on later. (Note: engine doesn't necessarily NEED a rebuild, but will eventually) 2. forget the rebuild and get full exhaust (headers > back), CAI, ignition, etc.. So, I'm leaning towards #2, however that presents another question: what's the best bang for buck with bolt-on parts? Heads, ignition, headers, CAI, etc? Anything I'm missing? -
