Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'ball joints'.
Found 3 results
-
Hi I’m new to the forum, so pardon any incorrect etiquette on my end. I have a 2014 Silverado 4x4 with aluminum LCA’s. After doing about a weeks worth of troubleshooting a loud squeak when turning the wheels, I did some investigating and learned that I most likely needed new lower ball joints. I ordered up some MOOG LBJ and some new tie rods as well. After the GRUELING process to get those ball joints out, and replaced, a week later... I HAD THE SQUEAK STILL. I look to the ball joint again, and the grease was spilling out of both of the brand new MOOG lbj boots. Listen... I’m not against saying that I might have been rough and ripped them upon installation... but at this point, I don’t care. So I ordered some brand new Lower Control Arms with LBJ’s in them already. Now finally, my question. Is there a way to install these Lower Control Arms without removing the entire wheel/hub assembly all over again? It looks like there are 6 bolts. I’m going off of memory. I have King OEM shocks that I’ve taken off countless times, so I know those are easy, I’m just looking for a quick way to get the job done. any help, helps! thank you for hearing my terrible story haha -
I replaced all ball joints on my 1999 GMC Sierra Z71 days ago. I ensured they were greased, and they all went in fairly easy. However, I have noticed the steering is noticeably tighter going down the road after this was done to the truck. I would describe the steering as stiff and much less responsive due to this tight feel, and because it is so tight it will not naturally rotate back to center after a turn. It tries to but the steering is just too tight. I figured I probably tightened the upper control arm before I tightened the lower but I went back and reassessed that. It did help a bit but it still about the same. If my memory serves me right, I can remember before I assembled everything back before I tightened the upper control arm and the tie rod, it moved freely and easily with just the bottom ball joint tightened down but when everything else was on it, it was near impossible to make the wheels turn in and out by hand, even with the wheel unlocked and on jack stands. I been continuously researching about this, and I've seen it to be a common issue but I can't figure out exactly why without everyone contradicting one another on other various forums. I did get both the bottom and upper control arms really tight with a wrench. that might be where I messed up because I know a castle nut isn't exactly meant to be extremely tight but then again, I don't know if that would have any effect on this issue. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the sequence or how I put the upper control arm back down in. Anyone experience this? -
I have researched the 3 different types of control arms for the 14-18 trucks. I know the stamped steel Upper Control Arms do NOT have any support/retention for the upper ball joints should (when) they fail. But, do the stamped steel lower control arms also not have any retention/support for the ball joints to hold them in when they fail?
