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Showing results for tags 'alignment'.
Found 13 results
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I have a 2019 L5P with 72k on it. Bought it last June from a dealership with 51k on it. Few months ago, I tried to go get it aligned at a Big O and was told they couldn't do it because it needed new pitman, idler, and inner tie rods. Got it on the lift few days later and decided pitman and idler were getting replaced, but tie rods didn't seem bad. Bought the parts, took it to a reputable shop, and had them replace them and align it. They scoped out the tie rods and agreed they weren't bad. Fast forward to a week ago, truck is out of alignment again and has slowly been getting worse. I have play in my steering wheel, rides rough, and discovered today that my ball joint on my driver side lower control arm is leaking grease. Once again checked my tie rods and still mechanically appear fine. I won't lie, I do not know all there is to know about these trucks, and I've been learning as I go. With all this being said, I'm looking for any information, any tips, any things to look for, or even common problems that I may need to look out for in the future. I'm on my own trying to figure this all out and the only thing most other shops do around here is treat me like a dumb blonde chick. Last shop I took it to is booked out now for over a month or I'd go back there. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
Bringing up an old post I found and hoping to get some help.. I'm having an issue with the following set-up: 2015 Silverado, Black Widow edition - 6" Fabtech & 35x12.5x20 MT ATZ's. I bought the truck last week and noticed the wheels hopping/sliding when fully turning left or right. Thinking it was an alignment issue, I brought it back to the dealer to check. They made some minor adjustments but nothing was out of GM spec and the problem remained. I contacted Fabtech to see if there were any other specs i should use for the alignment other than what the manufacturer recommends after the lift but they said "not really". i did get the alignment specs for one of the trucks they (Fabtech) own with the same lift and the only thing i can see different than mine is the slightly increased caster angle. No idea what the issue is but very annoying and sure it will wear my tires prematurely. Based on my knowledge, it seems like whether turning left or right the outer wheel is over-steering and/or the inner is under-steering causing the outer to either slide or hop. Driving straight or in slight turns is great. Only see the issue at full turn. Also lost turning radius but kinda expected that with the lift/tires. I'm sending Fabtech pics of tread marks and tire wear and see what they recommend. Seems like the Ackermann angle is off but not sure where to start with ruling it out. The truck is back at the dealer today to align according to the Fabtech specs but not sure what to expect when I get it back. Always in 2WD and rarely use the auto 4WD feature. Disengaged the traction/stability control to see if anything changes but nothing. Other than that...Stumped Pic is of the skid marks left after turning left. Same is happening at a full right turn.
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Experienced a one-off braking issue while descending a 7% grade. Had driven ~100 miles, stopping as needed with no issues. Began descending about 3 miles of maximum 7% grade touching the brakes infrequently as my 2018 Silverado 2500HD Duramax does a great job of reducing speed when off the petal. No towing selector, downshifting, no engine brake engaged. I’m just about to level ground, slowly apply my brakes and HELLO! Front-end/wheels start shaking like I’m about to throw a wheel. I feather braked to a stop on a side street, checked for play in the wheels and nothing evident. Continued another 120 miles, up hill/down hill, two 9% grades and only one instance of a very light wobble. Suggestions/similar situations?
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I've been experiencing a issue involving height related to torsion bars on my 1999 GMC Sierra. I am having trouble determining if it is the driver side torsion bar, or perhaps the driver side lower control arm being worn where the torsion bars sits in it. This issue is non-existent on the passenger side. On the driver side, I removed the torsion bar for some other work I was doing and when I re-installed it in the lower control arm, I noticed the keys were positioned differently literally every way I turned the bar or tilted the lower control arm on the driver side. The keys are the same but on the driver side the torsion key seems to sit lower than the passenger side when installing it making the driver side higher which in turn makes the lower control arm sit lower. This is causing far too much camber on the driver side making turn radius on that side a little sketchy. It is also making my lower control arm make contact with the steering knuckle. The ball joints are all new. Could this be a worn lower control arm, or possibly the torsion bar on the driver side alone? Is there a fix to correct the issue? If anyone has experienced this or can make better sense of it please let me know! -
Anyone happen to have or know where to get the factory alignment specs for a 2017 Z71 crew cab short box? I have had a slight pull to right for a while, put new tires on few weeks ago and got it aligned but I think they did a crummy job aligning just barely getting it into green and it still pulls right, almost worse. I just wanted to compare to factory before I took it back.
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Installing a new transmission mount from energy suspension for my 2006 Sierra 1500 4.8 2WD. I’m having trouble aligning the middle hole (theres 3) on the mount with the crossmember hole. Transmission keeps pulling to the passenger side when I lower the jack. There is no play on the mount to move it from side to side, just front to back. Any suggestions?
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I just ordered a Rough Country leveling kit for my 2019 Silverado. I know I can install it myself but will I need an alignment? Has anyone actually installed one of these on a 2019? Did it throw the alignment off? Was just curious if I should spend the money getting an alignment or not. Thanks in advanced. I have a newer body style 2019 if it makes a difference.
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Hey guys, As some of you know I have asked a few questions before. So you will know I have had my truck for MANY years. So here it goes. When I lived in Tx, I bought a lifetime alignment (7 years ago). (Truck is lifted, so I know I would be doing this frequently.) Since I have moved back to Az (3 yrs ago), I have taken my truck in 3 times now, and they “say” they can not align my front end properly for whatever excuse they always give (alignment rack to small, techs capability is not advanced enough, you name it). Regardless the place I would take it in Waco could. In 2 years I have gone through a set of tires that I normally get 50-60k out of. So the store has suggested “new camber bolts” in the UCA frame mounts. Seems like they are just fishing to make some money, since they are losing it from a lifetime alignment. Has anyone ever changed they camber bolts on the UCA so they don’t “drift” during normal driving. I have found a couple replacements on line, but they dont look as if they have any more adjustment than that of the stock camber bolts. If so, what have you gone with? Side note: UCAs, Tie Rods, ball joints, and hub/bearing assemblies and tires have all been changed to aftermarket. Also installed a “beefier” idle/pitman arm brackets to prevent wear on steering. Also adjusting the torsion bars higher, could also prevent the vehicle from proper alignment. However, RCD Lifts claim that is not a requirement for their lift kit. Lift kit installed on truck prior to my purchasing 13 years ago.
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I have a 2006 Silverado 1500 - CrewCab - 4WD - 5.3L engine. The truck has never been wrecked and alignment prior to the work - was fine. I had the following replaced due to age and wear indications: Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings (with Poly), Sway bar Bushing (poly), Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Shocks, Tie Rods and Ends (i.e. entire assembly), Pitman arm, and Idler arm and Bracket (i.e. the pivoting assembly). Took the truck in for alignment - and basically while everything appears fine and aligned without issue - the steering wheel is about 45 degrees to the right. The alignment people stated that the pitman arm was probably mis-aligned and they could not straighton the steering wheel without bottoming out the tie-rod on one side and that this would not be good. So took the truck back and had the pitman arm alignment checked - it was fine - even had the old one re-installed to check things and there was no difference (i.e. the new one was not keyed wrong or mis-aligned). Everything has been double checked and still the alignment of the steering wheel is off. Verified that the part numbers used were correct and that there was no "difference between 2wd and 4wd or in the various years. SideNote: the steering shaft was NOT disconnected to check the pitman arm. Comments or thoughts?
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Chevrolet silverado 2017 1500 crew cab My truck was lifted 4inch from pro comp, 2 years ago someone slammed into me on the drivers side and got everything fixed with no issues at all. Last month decided to got for a baja kit mid travel kit with king 3.0 and that is when all the problems started. To do the swap i had to weld on a new cross member and buy a couple of other factory parts to fit the kit which i did. Since than the car has not been the same, after a week my differential gears and 4x4 broke ( was driving very harshly tho), also got the car aligned at a couple of shops and still every time i turn the 4 wheel drive on the steering wheel rattles and pulls to the right also a week after the bushing for the left upper control arm got damaged and the wheel/tire was shaking. i got a set of 37's and the guys at the shop told me that the right tire fits no problem however the left one was rubbing bad from the inner fender and you cant turn a full left turn, they took the measurements of the right and left wheel/tire position and informed me that the front left tire is 2inch behind the front right tire and this might be a chassis issue. called the shop that fixed my car when i got into an accident to double check and he said we did not see any damages or dents on the frame/chassis of the car. I will go to body shop later today to get it checked out but would be great if i could get help from you guys on where i should look. i am from the middle east, we have good workshops and mechanics but i have been running around from shop to shop and non of them could diagnose or resolve the issue. Would be great if you guys can help me list everything that might cause the left tires to be 2 inches off and i will go through all of them till i can diagnose and fix the issue. i love my truck so much and would never even think about selling it. saved up for a long time to get the mid travel kit and never really was able to enjoy it. -
Hello, Everyone! After Months of having to cope with noises and problems regarding tge front end alignment on my truck, i finally came across the solution The stock suspension alignment is set by this cams, which are prone to moving under load and/or getting loose: No matter how many times i aligned the truck, it all moved again while making a turn in the parking lot or getting down from the drveway ( close to steering lock) I finally decided that it was enough and after making some research i came across this kit from Dirt King Fabrication: https://dirtkingfabrication.com/products/upper-arm-alignment-cams-dk-632919 The process i took was as follows: -Re Align the Truck (-2* Camber, +5* Caster) -Mark where the position stock cams as they sit correcly -Install thenew Dirt King cams in the same positions -Add pressure washers (Not incluided in kit) -Add Loctite (Not incluided in kit) -Tighten everything down (like, a lot) For the TL;DR I made a video about it: Problems i came across: -One of the alignment pins that are pressed into the chassis fell, almost all others were loose Fix: I replaced it with a little screw and nut (shown in video) -The truck´s suspension still knocks a bit when moving at full lock, but it doesnt feel like moving Fix: Still working on it but if it doesnt move and looses the alignment, i dont care Maybe the only option is to pin point removable welds, screw it. Have anyone else experienced this kind of problem in their trucks? How did you manage to fix it? With any luck GM fixed this garbage alignment design for the new 2019s (i think they did) And as always support on my YT channel is very much appreciated
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Ive always had a moderate pull to the right when hands off the wheel. To drive straight, I have to hold the wheel about 1/2 inch turned to the left. I noticed the passenger right tire tread was chopped in irregular patterns, but they were old tires so I didn't care. I put off identifying and fixing the issue. I recently got the truck leveled and new, expensive AT tires. I got the truck aligned and was told it was "way misaligned," however the issue is still there, although a little better. I don't want to chop up these tires and want to be able to take my hands off the wheel and not start drifting right.Any ideas? Easy fix? Hard fix?FWIW, 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71. 144,xxx miles, everything all original. Now have new keys for the level and new 285/70/17 Toyo tires
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Anyone noticed any feathering issues with the trucks when new? Started noticing some feathering around 750 miles on my eAssist with 4x4. Called a local dealer and they said they can only look at it, but couldn't do anything until at least 1500 miles to 2000 miles. Recommended that I take it back to where I purchased it from. I took it in yesterday, the service consultant said they can look at it, but they aren't supposed to touch it until around 8000 miles. I showed him the wear and told him by then, I will not have any tire left. So they agreed to take it in and check it out. Then when they were test driving, apparently an Audi turned into my front passenger wheel...anyway, long story short I have a loaner now that is not 4x4, but also eAssist with only 1700 miles. I noticed the same feathering issue, just not as bad as mine (probably weight related). Perhaps a batch came out of the factory with too much toe. Thoughts?
