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Showing results for tags 'aftermarket audio'.
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Okay, First time listener, first time caller... Sorry just had to. When I get frustrated I handle it with humor. So, what I have is this issue. I purchased 7" In Dash 7010B from Wish and bench tested power up Then I ordered the PAC RP5-GM11 Interface. Wired up as instructed. And viola, no power. I then searched for NO POWER (PAC) and came upon the Tech Bulletin. Completed those instructions, and NADA. I've got nothing. So, yesterday, I contacted service on Wish & Amazon to start over. Have a new/different radio coming, and a new RP5 coming. Who has successfully wired these RP5's into a suburban? Is the selector correct to be on 7(Other)? Obviously, I am doing something wrong... Any help would be appreciated. j-vet -
Hey guys, first and foremost Merry Christmas and I hope everyone is having a great holiday, I however am in a bit of a bind. I wasn't happy with the bose sound system in my new Trail Boss so I went with JL 3.5” in the dash, and a 6x9 3 way coaxial and a 6.5 2 way coax in the rear. I originally bought the factory kicker sub upgrade for the bose to see if it would help and it did but it wasnt enough so I went with JL. Only problem is I ****ed up and my wife had a tech support package through Best Buy so my install was free and it certainly showed. Ive already undid what they did and it seems they tapped into the speaker wire cluster in the passenger door panel and tried to wire from the bose amp to the new JL 5 Channel amp and then tried to run my 6 channel LC7i output converter to the factory head unit from the same rear passenger door cluster. Sounded like shit, I had no control over my fades, my highs were ear shrieking, no sound when making phone calls and they attached the wrong wires etc. Long story short I memorized all the speaker wire colors in the truck both positive and negative fixed the cluster they ****ed up and have everything other than the speakers that are currently disconnected; connected. Ive also got the kicker sub upgrade to work with the 6” bose sub without the special harness after some splicing and tapping into the mono sub input coming from the bose amp (Blue/Grey and Green/Black thicker gauge wire). My problem Im running into is where I tap into the signal coming from my head unit in order to plug into my LOC. From there I can hook my amp up to my speakers and call it a ****ing day. Ive pulled my rear seats to have full access to the bose amp and Ive also pulled the door sills and some of the dash to be able to get to the dash speakers. Which brings me to my other problem. I don't want my 3.5” JL speakers to be wired to the bose sub for obvious reasons, so is it possible to wire them directly to the head unit since they're a lower RMS and, if so, then how? Basically where do I tap into the truck to install my six channel LOC and wire my dash speakers to my head unit. Currently I have the speaker wires in the rear passenger sill cluster snipped since thats where best buy had them snipped in order to bypass the amp. Additionally is bypassing the amp as simple as snipping the wires belonging to the speakers which the bose amp is supplying power to? I know there are harnesses but Ive already got the truck apart and I have my solder and weather tubes to properly splice my connections so I don't mind the work as long as Im able to get it done, Ive been without proper sound for 3 months Im not waiting on a harness since the holidays is the only time I have off. Il post pictures of the cluster **** shortly. Merry Christmas and happy holidays guys !
