Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'abs'.
Found 20 results
-
Hello, for the past two years my truck (2015 Sierra 1500 All Terrain) has been intermittently flashing service lights saying the to service ABS, to service stabillitrac, and to service parking sensors. This would happen a few times a month and would immediately go away and I would think that it was just an annoying bug. But since about a month ago, when making low speed left turns, as well as any size bump, caused it to happen. This worsens into ABS light and stabillitrac light on for one day. While this happened you could feel the ABS pumping at when braking normally. This too went away the next day. I took the truck to the dealer for a diagnostic and told them all of this as well. After the $190 diagnosis they said it was the following codes (attached photo) C0035-04, C0040-04, and C0035-0F. they told me both front hubs were bad and needed replacement. They wanted $1800 for parts and labor. I told them thank you and paid the diagnosis and took the truck home. After the dealer the trucks electronics and 10x worse. Now the ABS and Stabillitrac lights stay on permanently, the brake light dings and flashes with any turn of the steering wheel. Also getting constant service ABS, service trailer brakes, Service stabillitrac, and reduced steering assist. I bought both front hubs and wheel speed sensors. I installed them and torqued everything back to spec. After reconnecting the battery and taking a test drive nothing had changed. I took the top panel from the dash off and did the ground mods. Again, no change. I’m going crazy trying to find the problem. I the. Took the truck to autozone for a code read. It still says the same three codes and it did, even after replacing the parts and sensors the dealer said would work. If anyone knows what the cause is it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dave
-
I recently replaced my rear wheel ABS s nor after getting a service ABS Service Stabilitrak and Service Trailer Break system warning. I took my truck into a shop that I deal with all the time and they got the code c0050 for a faulty right rear abs wheel speed sensor. I had recently had the same sensor replaced about a 18 months earlier. I got a new sensor and replaced it myself, I also cleaned the mounting face on the rear axle as I read this could cause some issues. After replacing the service lights were still on, I also took it for a short drive to see the sensor needed to seem some movement to reset the warning lights, all with no sucess. I have a multimeter and have checked grounds going to the sensor and there is continuity when I check the ground wire from the sensor. I am begining to think it is the ABS control module??
-
My wife and I were going to have a picnic by the ocean so went on a sandy (beach sand) road, meant for off road vehicles only. I switched to 4 Hi and while drove in the sand at less than 10mph. After about 5 minutes or so I had warnings of "service ESC" and "steering assist is reduced, drive with care". The truck, which is a 2019 Trail Boss, performed fine and I did not notice any difference in handling. I tried taking off the traction control, putting the truck in park, shutting the truck off for a while, but still the lights stayed on. The lights went off after driving about 5 minutes in 2 Hi. I also recieved emails from OnStar "there is an issue with the ABS system" and "there is an issue with Stabilitrack traction control". I don't think this is normal so it is at the dealer now. They said the initial results are the yaw sensor triggered for some reason...I don't think this is normal, the truck has 800 miles on it, but any ideas what this is or what it means? Thanks. -
2020 Rocky Ridge K2 Silverado 5.3L 14K miles First time posting. Have been expereincing intermittent brake lights staying on after engine shut down for several weeks. Took it to the dealership, who ran a diagnostic on the truck and came back with "all things look normal, no codes". By the time I got home, the brake lights were in a state of constant "on" and I was able to restart the truck without applying the brake, even with the key fob outside the vehicle. Received several Onstar warnings to "Service Parking Brake". The parking brake had engaged and would not release. I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes, reconnected the battery which cleared the code. Called the dealership and was told I would have to leave it with them for awhile (several days to a week) to find out what the issue is. Would be ok except they do not provide a loaner car and rentals are thru the roof in our area ($100/day) so I have been living with this inconvenience until I can find an alternative way to work (80 miles rt). Then this happened over the past weekend: While driving back from the lake with my boat in tow, the truck went into a critical brake failure mode. Here is the series of events. Moored boat at dock and went to retrieve truck to remove boat from water. Could not unlock door on truck with FOB. Truck was "dead". No voltage activity. Used 12v portable jump pack to start vehicle. Let run for @20 min before proceeding to drive home with boat attached. Check engine light was on for 30 seconds then went out, but no warning dialog boxes. After we were on the road for @15 min, in rapid succession, I received the following warning dialog boxes: Service Trailer Brake System Service ESC Service Parking Brake Brake System Failure - 62 MPH Top Speed Check engine warning light Traction Control Off warning light ABS Off warning light As soon as I saw this, I tried to apply the brakes and they went to the floor. As you might imagine, it was chaotic in the vehicle when it became apparent that the vehicle along with the 6000lbs of Boat/trailer in tow was not going to stop in any timely fashion. Along with the trailer brake failure and vehicle brake reduction, the backup surge brakes on the trailer would not engage due to the lack of quick inertia braking force. I had the pedal to the ground and eventually we came to a stop. The rest of the ride home (2 miles) was a 5mph white knuckle event. The insult to the injury is there has been no warnings, email, text or posted on account from Onstar about this series of events but... I did get one on the same day that my Oil change is due. I am posting the screen shots I took after we came to a stop. It is being towed to the dealership tomorrow. I will let you know what happens. I absolutely love my truck. It is the 5th Chevy that Ive owned, and sadly the worst one of the bunch. M
-
Hi all, I am new to posting so please bear with me. I was on the beautiful Garden State Parkway... cruising at a bout 75 MPH. The truck got very sluggish, bucked a couple times and stalled. I had just filled my tank about 20 miles back. So thought it may have been a fuel problem. I tried to start it a few times it would start run very rough for a few seconds, then die. So I AAA for a tow. Found out that AAA is not allowed on the parkway, long story short $120.00 later I was towed 2 miles to the nearest exit. There was an advanced auto just off the exit, they scanned the truck, only code shown was a wheel sensor for both front wheels. So I purchased a fuel filter just before closing and replaced it in the parking lot. ?No luck after trying again to start the truck, I would up killing the battery. Got a tow back home. Now I have replaced the battery. Start the truck runs great for about 10 seconds, then the ABS light come on and the truck stalls. When the ABS light comes on it tries to run, but is almost like the timing gets changed. It runs really lopping then dies. If I try to start it right away, starts running rough again. Turn off the key, wait 5-10 minutes start it up runs great for about 10 seconds, then the ABS light comes on and lopes again eventually stalling. Has anyone had this issue or have any ideas on what it could be? -
I am new to the forums and hoping someone may have seen this or run into this before. I own a 2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab, 5.3L, 2WD, 102K miles, Factory radio with a harness plug for a an amp for subs. Electric drop down side steps. LED headlights & fogs. K&N Nighthawk Intake. Battery is less than a year old but i'm in Arizona so batteries get wrecked yearly. I recently took my truck to my local DIY car wash place where I always go. I washed my truck like normal and dried it off like normal. I did not spray engine bay, just the front grill area inward but not heavy. I don't usually use my AC but I'm in Arizona and it was about 109* outside. When I was leaving the car wash I kicked my AC on so I wouldn't mess up the clean windows from rolling them down. I proceeded to leave and as I was coming to the stop sign before making my turn and my truck's idle started to drop, truck kinda sputtered, the battery voltage dropped, the stabilitrak light, traction light, ABS light, all kicked on. The radio shutoff and turned back on. The AC shut off and turned back on, but switched from recirc to fresh. I turned the AC off and then back on again and continued to drive home. It did it a few more times so I swung into the gas station to park and see if it would do it while i was sitting there. Nothing. So back on the road again, turned my AC on and hit the next light, and it did it again. I changed my oil today (6/13), I cleaned my K&N air filter last weekend. I took a trip to Lowes this morning to see if it was still doing it, and sure enough it was. The photos are attached of it doing it in the lowes parking lot before I left. I rolled the windows down, turned the AC off and cruised home. It didnt do it again. So I am thinking the AC is drawing a huge amount of power from the system when I run it, or my battery is done for. Any helpful feedback would be appreciated.
-
So I just installed a Rough country 6 inch lift on my 03 Silverado 1500. I unhooked all the break lines at the calipers to do the lift. When I got everything put back together it was time to bleed the breaks. When I tried they pumped up like normal but after starting up the truck the pedal then sank to the floor. I’ve done this a good 10 times to no avail. My abs lights are on in the cab as well as service break system, but all these lights where still on before I lifted my truck. I even changed out the master cylinder an tried to run the codes on my scanner. But it said that I had to clear trouble codes before I could do the automated bleed. But It won’t let me clear the codes anyway. I do have breaks but there almost absolute. Is there a way to bypass abs so I can have breaks again? I’m lost!
-
I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500. The abs cable on the front driver side is disconnected because of a lift installed. Is there an extension cable or something out there that will connect? I swear I’ve looked everywhere?
-
My 2019 SIlverado 4x4 has 3,100 miles. It was parked in the driveway last week and when I attempted to enter it into the garage, and in Drive, it sat there for a second or two, and then lurched into the garage. I instanteously hit the brakes and got it stopped. When I pressed the gas, the truck just stood still, then took off into the garage. Now, today, as I backed out of the driveway for a quick errand, the emergency brake would not release, then it released, but as I selected Drive, it refused to move. I played around with it several times, pressing the brake pedal as instructed, and finally got it to go. However, I had now brake assist. It required a ton of pressure to get it to stop. The dash light up like the 4th of July. BRAKE showed up in red, engine in yellow, Traction Control in yellow, Tire Pressure (quickly vanished), ABS, and Service ESC. Am heading to the dealer (48 miles) in the morning. I was going to connect my DTC and see what was showing, but will refrain, so dealer can see for themselves. I've noticed a couple of intermittent quirks since I've owned it (July 2019), but things seemed to resolve themselves. I did receive December recall and they will get that looked at in the morning. Am attaching a photo of the dash as i sits now. The -14.6V DC light is from a piece of equipment I have installed. Anyone else out there having issues? Also, photo shows less the 30psi oil pressure at idle, a bit low I am thinking
-
Hi, I have a 2005 Sierra Denali. When I got the truck from my uncle who was the original owner, the gauge cluster, which was brand new installed by GM did not illuminate the ABS and BRAKE lights. Everything else works. I pulled the cluster apart and tested that those LED’s work, and they do. I replaced the ABS pump unit because it was not functioning, and had the EBCM rebuilt. The ABS functions correctly now with the exception of those lights that have never been on since I got the truck. Even if I press the Parking brake/E-brake, the red BRAKE light stays off but it will ding at me if try to drive with it on, similarly, before I replaced the ABS pump, I got a message in the odometer screen saying “Service Brake System”, no lights from either. No fault codes. They don’t even come on when cycling the key, but all the other ones do. I’m at a loss. Can’t find any broken wires or bad grounds. Any help would be great. Thank you!
-
Antilock Brake System Automated Bleed (OBDII scan tool)
dye posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
I just did the brake pipe kit install on my '01 K2500 Suburban. I have a friend with a Bosch scan tool that is able to command the ABS unit to run its self-bleed routine. What I am missing is the "how to" properly do this procedure. I have access to the Chilton's for my year Suburban, and it has a "Antilock Brake System Automated Bleed" section. It starts out with a full normal bleed, followed by Step 10: Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Automated Bleed Procedure. Release the brake pedal between each test. Sadly, no mention is made of the actual mechanics of the "Automated Bleed Procedure". Could someone cue me in? How many test sequences need to be performed. Truck running, or not running? I assume the procedure lets air in the ABS block to get pushed out towards the calipers. Do you need to crack a bleeder on each of the three circuits (rear, RF, LF) to make room so the air has someplace to go? I did search the forums, with no success. Thanks in Advance! -
My 2002 chevy Avalanche 1500 Z71 5.3l has 37s mud tires on it, 20 inch rim's, and the abs light turns on and turns right back off on the high way, and then stays off, i heard it not very good for off roading either, which is something i enjoy doing, i read, and some people really hate ABS as it turns out. And they said to just pull the fuse, after i pulled the fuse, i expected the abs light to turn on, but when i looked both the ABS and Brake light were on, any ideas how i can turn that brake light off? The truck still stops good, and there are no problems, just a stupid brake light. -
I just purchased a 2019 Silverado 1500 Custom Crew Cab 2 weeks ago. They towed it back to the dealer this morning. I tried to drive it to work yesterday and the parking brake would not release. A tow driver came out yesterday, and he got it to release (while I was at work using another car). then I received two e-mails from On Star. One said a problem was detected with the Stabilitrack Stability Traction System. The second said a problem was detected with the anti-lock brake system, and I needed to get the truck serviced within 7 days. Since I didn't feel safe driving it there, I called GM's Roadside Assistance and had it towed back to the dealer today. According to the tow truck driver, the 2019 Silverado has a new electronic brake system they (GM) haven't used before. He said he's been towing a LOT of cars and trucks lately that have this new electronic brake system. I went to the dealership to get a loaner truck, and I asked them about the new system. The advisor there confirmed that there is a new brake system on the 2019 trucks, and they are having issues with it. (That would have been good to know before I bought it 2 weeks ago!) He told me they have parts and they have software upgrades to fix it, but it's going to be at least two days before he can even get it in the shop. We're a GM family and we've owned lots of brand new GM cars, but this is our first pickup truck. Has anyone else had this same issue? If so, were they able to resolve it successfully? I don't want to be in and out of the dealership every other week getting stuff fixed now. This is really disheartening. -
I have a 03' Yukon XL AWD w JL4, and like others my brake lines are toast. My plan is to replace everything from the combination valve down. To make things easier, I am looking at the NiCopp lines. I like the EZ-Fit kit, which includes lines that are pre-cut (not shaped) and flared with fittings. It's more expensive than bulk tubing, but it seems like it might significantly reduce the time and effort involved. I do have a couple of questions for those of you who have already tackled this job: Material: Any thoughts on NiCopp vs steel? Since NiCopp is much softer, should I go easy when tightening the fittings? I think the specs call for 18ft/lbs of torque. Does anyone have any experience with the EZ-Fit kit? Bleeding: I usually vacuum bleed my brakes. Do I need a pressure bleeder to do this right? Are there any tricks to completely bleeding the ABS module, or do I need a scanner to do it properly? Do I need to bleed the master cylinder, since I am starting below the combination valve? Routing: It seems like the difficult line is the one going from the ABS to the rear. I saw some articles about taking off the left wheel skirt to get a good angle on feeding the rear line. Do you have any other tips re the routing of the lines? I don't want to have to drop the fuel tank or raise the body. Tools: Other than the pressure bleeder, I guess I need a flare nut wrench (14mm?), is a flex wrench important? It looks like the access areas and angles on some of the fittings are tough. Am I missing anything? Any other advice? I have attached a photo of the existing lines. I am assuming that I don't have much time. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all of your help!!!
-
Alright, so I have a 2007.5 Chevy Silverado 5.3 4x4 and the abs has been acting up since I got my cam and lifters swapped. I read up on it and already changed my hubs and wheel speed sensors all around and the problem is still there. It's only driving slow and applying the pedal that it happens.
-
Hi, I recently pulled my t-case and replaced the housing on it due to the pump rub issue. After re-installing everything was fine for about 1 mile then the abs light came on and I got "service brakes " message and my speedo quit working, which also causes my trans to shift hard and erradictly . Long story short.... I've checked all the fuses , replaced the speed senor in the t-case (as far as I know this is the only one the truck has , it's a base work truck trim) and the wiring harness to the t -case and speed sensor, and no dice. The only codes that it is showing on the reader at the local Oreilly's is mass airflow and knock sensor. 4x4 still engages fine, the motor in the front axle works too. Btw, It's a 2003 2500hd 4x4 6.0 Silverado base work truck. If anyone has any info on this matter that could help I would sure appreciate it , thanks. Quote Edit -
Hi, I recently pulled my t-case and replace
-
I just bought a 2004 Yukon xl. It has abs/ brake issues and I want to bounce some issues off of a group on where to start. The abs light is intermittent. The most noticeable is the brake petal goes almost to the floor before you get any stopping power. It does have a list of codes including wheel sensors, (witch I have read are issues with these trucks.) It has been in northern california its whole life and never subjected to salt so I am initially ruling out issues related with that. I am feeling like it is a master cylinder issue. Has anyone else experienced similar issues?
-
hi , driving me crazy , 2002 gmc 2500hd , auto trans , 4wd , 6.0l , app 250,000 km , 4dr xcab , long box , factory 2" lift , . my ABS lamp is on , there are no codes , no speedometer , ABS lamp behaves normal , comes on , goes out , comes back on. originally had a vss code , so i installed a non gm vss , still the same , when i drive 1/4 block the park and brake light come on , they go out after restart and only come on when moving , no speedo , i sent the ABS module away to be repaired , twice , first time it came back it was the same but wouldn't recognize that i had unplugged the vss as a test , the module will recognize either front abs sensor wires disconected , code for them , and then recognize that i plug them back in , i checked the fuses , i took the wiring harness from the vss to the pcm and verified that the two wires from the vss are ok , everybody i ask says that it is impossible to have an ABS lamp on and no codes, the module repair man told me i had a cheap code reader so i had a professional shop reader diagnose the codes , ($ 200.00) same thing , ABS on , no codes available , driving test showed no output from vss , put the old original vss back in , same thing , i bought a used complete ABS unit yesterday , stripped the module off , plugged into my truck , the ABS lamp went off ,finally , truck running or shut off . so i went for a test drive , no speedo still , and then the ABS lamp came back on and the park/brake lamp too , no codes still , park/brake lamp off when restarted but ABS still illuminated . also replaced the vehicle battery , i'm working outside in canada and it's about 0F , not much fun with those little t20 module bolts.they want $750 canadian dollars at the GM local dealer for a new module . is it possible the ignition switch is haywire ? is there a vss speed buffer in this truck ? and will it hurt my trans to operate like this , it shifts hard like a race car , been 2 mos without using the truck , thanks , jim. i should also mention that i cleaned and verified the 2 ground points under the cab and the ground under the battery on the frame, ran jumpers from battery to engine, frame , firewall etc, no better, unplugged pcu and visually checked the pins for corrosion , truck was from british columbia and has minor corrosion , almost none, no road salt area , . we fixed a pontiac vibe that had no speedo , ABS lamp wasn't on , researched that the two front wheel sensors ran to the abs module to make the speedo work , no vss, we replaced the ABS module and all is working , i thought similar situation here but this truck has a vss, the vss wires run directly to the pcm . where they go next i don't know. i purchased a cd of a factory service manual , but it has 23,000 pages and no index that i could find , if i had the proper page numbers to search perhaps i could do more , so if you can give me the page numbers it would help a lot, also it's very slow to load as too much data .
-
I have a 99 Silverado 4x4 and I there have been a couple times when I'm making a tight turn like into a parking spot that it feels like I have no brakes. I brought it into my old guy who fixes things for me that I can't and he said the brakes seem to function fine and there are no codes showing up so he thinks its probably a sensor not picking things up properly due to a wheel bearing starting to get loose. He was reluctant to just start replacing things not being sure exactly which wheel was the issue (which a I appreciated) and suggested I pull the ABS fuse and put it back in every few months until the issue got to the point where it would trigger a code. I live in Minnesota so the ABS is a nice feature and I hate having warning lights on the dash. This guy is usually really good with these older vehicles, but I would like to see what others think could be wrong or give me ideas on how to diagnose. Thanks
