Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Wiring'.
-
I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 LT CC. I recently purchased tow mirrors and installed them. The tow mirrors I purchased came with the wiring for the lighting if your truck didn’t come with mirror lighting. Theres four wires I need to splice in somewhere (per mirror) The wiring diagram they gave me was vague and I’m not too sure what all of the lights are: -Signal on the glass (+) -lights (-) -Reversing light (+) -Clearance light (+) I am an avionics guy for airplanes so I’d say I’m ok at wiring. I tried tapping the blinker wire into the BCM but blinker wouldn’t come on. I also read the you really shouldn’t splice into the BCM. Does Anyone have advice for running these wires and where I can tap into ? P.s. I know someone on here sells a harness, but I don’t want to spend extra money if I don’t have to. I already ran the wires in the cab.
-
My father just purchased a '24 3500HD and wants to install his LED tailgate light bar from his old truck. I know you can't just tap into the trailer wiring like the old trucks (because the truck "senses" when a trailer is plugged in and then powers the circuits). I tried to order a harness online that taps into the tail light wiring harness, but the connectors are for a 6-pin plug and the '24 trucks have a 12-pin plug. Does anyone know if there is a harness out there yet for these trucks? I'm definitely not going to splice into the factory tail light harnesses just for this light bar. I told him he'd have to wait until someone comes out with one. Thanks! -
So I'm trying to do the heated/cooled seat retrofit in my 2017 silverado 1500 and I've found a lot of stuff online about how it would be a whole lot of work because of all the extra wiring that the system has, & that it would be almost impossible if you didn't have heated seats to begin with, but I don't accept that & I am determined to make it happen. I've already bought every bit of interior out of this high country which came with the heated/cooled seats, but now that it comes time to actually do the swap I realize that I probably should have done a little more research before spending this much money on this stuff because If pgamboa is correct that means I just wasted $1500, but I'm determined to prove him wrong(no offense if you happen to see this lol). So I guess My main question is, has anyone been able to do this retrofit successfully, to where the heating, cooling, and power all work as designed & so there aren't any airbag lights or other warning lights/messages on the dash? I'm a technician at a gm dealership so I have access to all the wiring diagrams and oem information that I could possibly need, but I'm a little confused as to the hard parts that I will 100% actually need,& I haven't heard of anybody actually doing this successfully with everything working as it should, so I want to make sure it's possible without wasting a whole bunch of time on it to figure it out. The other main concern that I know will need to be done for it to function properly, and the thing I'm most concerned about figuring out, is the programming aspect of it. Obviously the truck will need to be programmed in order for the system to function, but im not quite sure on how to go about doing that, especially since I'm going to be adding new modules entirely since my truck didn't have heated seats to begin with, but would there not be a way to avoid having to do that & just running power and ground to the heated/cooled seats, but still using thd factory buttons to retain the oem look? I mean their pretty much just toggle switches, so really in theory, for for the low setting heat I would think I could just install a resistor between the switch & seats, and could do away with the need for all the modules , I just wouldn't have the memory features or comfort/convince settings that I would if it were programmed correct? That is obvi a worse case scenario type situation if there's just no way to make it work with an aftermarket programmer or something. Which everyone always says something about how if you go that route & end up taking it to a dealership or something & they reprogram the bcm then it would take away all the other features, but since I work at a dealership I can make sure it never has an mdi hooked up to it. It'd be nice if gm would let you program any module to your vehicle if all the appropriate hardware was there & whatnot I really don't understand why they don't allow that, but apparently it's above my pay grade lol. But if anyone has any info om this, or better yet if angone has actually SUCCESSFULLY done this, please help ya boy out with some info! Please & thanks In advance! -
Really I need answers. I have zero clue on how to use this site. I recently overhauled my 4.8 vortec for my 03 sierra 1500. I hookerd every single connection up and went to crank and it clicks once and never tries anything again. No noises from starter or nothing. I have had some other issues too, a few select lights on my dash stay on after the truck is turned off completely and the key is out, specifically the brake light, seatbelt light and security light. The DTRL stay on too. Relay for the DTRL clicks when you switch them from high beams to low beams, the fuel pump relay clicks when switching from acc to on and a high pitch ringing can be heard from the passenger side of the engine bay. I'm really at a loss for what's wrong. Could it be that I pinched a wire? a bad ground? a short? every wire still has the protective sleeving. i also had the wiring harness wayyy out of the way when I put my engine back in.
-
Hey fellas just wondering if anyone knows what this hanging plug is? Not sure if it’s for a sensor or not I just noticed it now..this is on a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 All Terrain Thanks! IMG_0890.dng
-
I have been trying to wire up a new stereo for my 2005 express, and I have already cut the factory harness (oops). The problem I have is that I cannot find out where the accessory wire is, and consequently the new unit will not shut off with the car because it's only wired to the 12v constant. I gave tried to use a multimeter to find the accesory wire by having the key in the on position and seeing which wire reads 12v, but the only wire I get a reading for is the 12v constant wire. Anybody know which wire is the accessory wire? Or whether there even is one? -
Does anyone know how to hook up the 12v constant power to the run lights in my trailer? They definitely work on our dodge 3500, but on my 2014 Sierra 1500 they don't. My only assumption is its not hooked up from the factory. Is it as simple as the older model GM trucks? Hook up a wire to the post by the fuse box and plug in a fuse for that location? Cheers -
I have a 2018 Silverado 4x4 and I replaced the factory fog lights with ones from Diode Dynamics. The new fogs have an amber backlight that I need to tap somewhere to get power. Can anyone help me with a good location for tapping and what color wire to be looking for? I'm thinking of tapping into DRL so they are on at all times during the day.
-
Can any give some insight on which wires are connected to which speakers on the green plug. I have attached a picture. There are a total of 10 wires and I’m assuming they are (LF+/-)(RF+/-), (RR+/-), (LR+/-) 12V and ground but do not know which goes to where. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!
-
I have a 03 Sierra and installed a LED light bar with dedicated harness from the battery to a switch inside the Cab. So my light bar ran perfect and then I started noticing when I turned them off, they would still flicker. So I bought a Load Equalizer and installed that in line close to the light bar and screw it to the frame. I go to turn my lights on and now they flicker while ON but turn off fine. This might be stupid simple but could that mean the Equalizer is bad? My connections are pretty solid.
-
here are some picture and videos of how i installed my upfitter aux switches to my 2017 silverado Texas edition truck which DID NOT com with them nor does it have the relays fuses or switch wires in the harness. keep in mind the switches are GROUND or NEGATIVE switching. which means they DO NOT HAVE 12v ON THEM. DO NOT PUT 12V ON THE WIRES YOUR ABOUT TO INSTALL. i had to get a new connector from a crashed truck in a junk yard which i then pulled 4 of the pins and wires out of to install into my trucks harness plug for the upfitter switch. once i did that it was just a simple act of making a short extension wire from those 4 wires coming from the harness plug to go to the driver kick panel where im going to locate the relays for the devises i want to control. you will see the harness plug and wires where i put them. and you will see the JST plug i used to connect the 4 wires to the extension wire to run to my relays. will also upload videos soon.
-
Hi all. My son has a 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 6.0. we are wondering can we use a engine wiring harness for a 5.3? Also what year range can we use. -
921075800.pdf -
I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 LTZ that came with factory LED tail lights. I recently bought a set of Morimoto XB LED tail lights that are not intended for factory LED trucks. I also purchased a set of tail light harness for a non-LTZ Silverado (GM Part #’s 23295977 and 23295978) so it would be a plug and play installation. Everything works (running lights, brake lights, reverse) but I have hyper flash on the turn signals. I have more pics and video of the issue on my instagram - @pgsulins Here is a list of the things I unsuccessfully tired to correct the issue: 1. Using the non-LTZ wiring harness, I installed 50w 6 ohm resistors with no luck 2. Using the non-LTZ wiring harness, I disconnected the Morimoto resistors that came on the tail lights and installed 50w 6 ohm resistors with no luck 3. I hacked into the LTZ wiring harness with and without added resistors keeping the Morimoto resistors plugged in with no luck 4. I hacked into the LTZ wiring harness with and without added resistors disconnecting the Morimoto resistors with no luck 5. I disconnected the Morimoto tail lights and installed incandescent bulbs into the non-LTZ harness and still get hyper flash 6. I tried wiring the Morimoto tail lights directly to the trailer hook up and still get the hyper flash 7. I connected the factory LED tail lights using the correct harness and then wired the Mormimoto tail lights to the trailer hook up and the hyper flash stopped 8. I called Morimoto and they were not helpful 9. I called two Chevy dealerships and asked if they could eliminate the error code but they were unwilling to touch it Attempts #5 and #7 lead me to believe there are some electronics in the actual factory LED tail lights that the computer needs to read in order to avoid the hyper flash. I say this because there should be no hyper flash with attempt #5 because I am using a stock set up and attempt #7 eliminates the hyper flash but requires the stock LED tail lights to be hooked up. I realize my issue is self-inflicted due to these lights not be intended for my truck but I love the look of these tail lights and was willing to give it a try. I know Recon sells tail lights that are intended for trucks that came equipped with factory LED tails so someone has been able to get working equipment on this truck but I’m out of ideas. Does anyone have any info that could help? Thank you! Paul
-
I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc. MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU My goal is to add the following: 1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi) 2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78) 3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit) From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows: 1. Install the Alternator 2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery 3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) 4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground 5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A) 6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately) I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit). I decided not to do either. The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio to reduce lights from flickering. The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries. The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues. I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice. I'm still a bit on the fence on this one. But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues. I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.
-
So as my previous threads have stated, I bought the truck from a dealership who’s basically after I threatened to get my lawyer involved they said they couldn’t have any further communications with me all because they refused to fix the mistakes they made. I go in today to look into the wiring under the dash and noticed a red wire, and a blue one going under the carpet, well got to looking and it’s running to the fuel pump. I found a receipt where they replaced the fuel pump and instead of wiring it the right way they spliced into what looks like the plug in for one of the air bag plug ins. They skinned the wire back and soldered it onto a known key on/hot. Well then I seen these wires dangling from a loom right under the dash, it’s a factory loom and even had the wires labeled under the dash but didn’t say to what. So what are these wires for? I used the multimeter and didn’t get any power from them, so not sure what they would go to. All I know is I’m more than pissed at the poor workmanship these people did. I’m taking it to the dealer soon to get the speedometer fixed because it’s +/- 10 over, and the service air bag light is on, but it also has the recall on the air bag. So what gives, what are these wires to, and where would the fuel pump hot wire originate from anyways. I think what happened is one of the block grounds broke off, the main one on the back of the block and that’s why they hooked it up to the hot the water they did, why I say this is because I found the hood to body ground laying in the engine compartment. Anyways, y’all got ideas on these wires, and where the hot for the fuel pump would actually go so that I can fix their mess?
-
My 2007 GMC Sierra SLT 5.3l has a couple wires cut near a connector and taped off located near the fuse box under hood. I'm second owner and I contacted the original owner and they said they dont know. It looks like a cable to an option that was disconnected? Anyone have any ideas? It's just one red and one black wire but the connector is large. Also nearby, there are two red wires with large round connectors rolled and neatly taped onto the conduit. Anyone know what those are for and where they originate? See photos. Thanks!
-
So I have a 05 CCSB Z71 with cloth seats and no seat heaters. I live in Alaska and seat heaters are much appreciated up here. I've done a bit of research and it seems like more hassle than it's worth to try to use the stock heater controls mounted on the door because I won't have the necessary wiring without the LT seats (is that right?). Anyways, I've been looking at universal kits and it seems like they're poorly suited to the seat design with the velcro down the middle and such. My question is whether I could pay the extra money for the GM heater pads but use a generic switch and relay setup. Would that work?
-
Hi Guys. I posted this question on an existing thread in the 2020 section. So if a Mod wants to delete that one, it's fine. This section is more appropriate. I'm curious: Has anyone tried to retrofit the 9L7 switch panel onto a 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra? I doubt it would be a perfect drop-in installation. But could it be made so it's functional? I have a 2018 Silverado Z71, with the factory Aux switch panel already installed below the Infotainment center. I'm adding some LED pods and other lights....so I'll need a place for switches that I'd be happy with. Right now, "plan A" is to mount rocker switches in the roof console like I've seen some people do. BUT the Upfitter switch panel from a 2020 Silverado/Sierra would also look good....if I could do it. Seems like the the 9L7 requires the switch panel, wiring harness, fuse block, and a relay block that comes with the harness (?). If I could make the switch panel fit in the knee bolster like they do with the 2020 models....I could probably find mounting locations for the rest. The only issue I can see is that if the 9L7 option comes with any plugs that connect to any existing plugs on the truck.....I doubt mine would be the right type since I have an older model. Any ideas?!? I'm no slouch when it comes to wiring.....so if I bought the components I could probably make it work. I'm just wondering if anyone has done something similar.
-
Looking for more ideas on how to spruce up the Custom model front end but I'm having a hard time finding accessories specifically for the Custom model. Any ideas or help appreciated! I've currently added Fabtech 3" Stealth suspension lift, 35's, Fuel Titan 20x9, Phillips Diamond Vision Halogen HID highs and lows(very impressed), purchased but not installed yet the Daytime running lamp LED strip for above the Lowbeam lights.
-
I have 2 led light bars under my rear bumper that I use to reverse at night that are currently wired to a switch in the cab. I was wondering if anyone knew of a way to have them wired into my reverse lights and also the switch so that they will come on when I put the truck in reverse but I could also control them manually.
-
Working on 2014 GMC Denali, lost all control of windows from driver door master switch. Purchased new switch, no change, found (green/yellow) wire snapped in accordian sleeve between door. Spliced wire at each end of harness and ran new wire. Now have control of every window BUT my driver door. -
Hi guys, hopefully someone out there in GM world can help me. I'm installing an aftermarket running board lights which has courtesy lights and turn signal lights. I looked every where to get some concrete answer where i can tap into the OEM parking lights wire, courtesy light wire, and turn signal wire. Now, I realize i can run them into the hood and into each headlamp but I much rather keep the connections neat inside the cab. I looked at the GMUPFitter manual and quite honestly it might as well be in chinese to me. If any one has any info with pictures broken down Barney style I would appreciate it. Also if you recommend not tapping into any wire coming from the BCM then where would be the best place to tap into? Thanks in advance to everyone who is willing to help! @pgamboa any suggestions? -
So I have a 2007 Chevy silverado 1500 classic. It has a rear window defogger but no heated mirrors nor powered or turn signal. I bought new tow mirrors that are powered heated and have turn signals in them. Is there anyway I can wire them in. I plan on putting powered windows and locks and putting the gm org button cluster in but not quite sure on how to wire it
-
$70 to ship within the 48 States.
.jpeg.78b601eb448f1d16703ad30ae5350100.jpeg)
