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Showing results for tags 'V6'.
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As everyone here already knows…”it shouldn’t take more than a few minutes” turned into me pondering how many fist sized dents I needed in my door panel for aerodynamic efficiency or the “golf ball” look. Anywho. I delved into the underside of my custom trail boss in an attempt to install a dipstick in my 6L80. Of course, I must mention that the 6L80 was present in the 4.3 models until at least the 2020 model year (RPO code MYC), this dipstick fits all 6L80/90 transmissions as far as I’m aware, in the 6/8 cylinder engines alike. Here is the order of operations. NOTE: TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER REMOVAL OR DROPPING THE REAR OF THE TRANSMISSION WAS NOT REQUIRED. FOR MY APPLICATION. Remove dipstick from tube to make installation easier. The dipstick gets in the way otherwise. Also, lube the seal and tube with white lithium grease to ease insertion. In order to access the hole where the plug is (that must be removed prior to installation), there is a heat shield that needs removal on the passenger side of the transmission. It is held on by two 10 mm bolts. Beware of the front one, it’s blocked by the bend in the shield, and too close to the catalytic converter to get a regular 3/8” ratchet and shallow well socket in there. After removing the heat shield, you can use a trim tool, your fingers, or a screwdriver to remove the plug where the dipstick enters the transmission (there is only one location it will go). Then, find the studs on the backside of the bellhousing, and locate the one below the starter hump. Using a 15 mm deep well, swivel, and breaker bar or 1/2” ratchet, remove the stud. Test fit and place it in its approximate location, but beware the ground strap on the back of the block, right next to the path of the tube, there is a chance it gets in the way like mine, and you’ll need to loosen it in order to route the tube unabated. 15mm bolt. Install your dipstick seal first, you can use a thin layer of white lithium grease for ease of insertion. Follow up by seating the tube in the grommet, and then reinstall your bell housing stud. Be mindful that torquing that stud could cause the dipstick to raise out of the hole, so it’s wise to keep light pressure downwards on the tube to ensure it stays in the transmission until you snug and tighten the stud. Once the tube is seated and the stud installed, make sure your O2 sensor wire holder/zip tie is still in its pocket on the transmission, and reinstall the heat shield. If you had to loosen or remove the ground strap on the block, reinstall/tighten the bolt. Use the procedure sent with the dipstick to check level and add fluid as needed. Mine needed 1 quart (this is typical, mine didn’t leak and hasn’t lost fluid.). This dipstick does work with aftermarket and deep pans. Lubelocker also makes a reusable gasket for the 6L80 and one for the 6L90 if anyone is interested.- 2 replies
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I have a 2004 Sierra 4.3l v6 that has started to run pretty rough on idle like it wants to bog out, I noticed my exhaust tips black (don't know if that matters). I checked the codes and got the P0300 code random misfire. I have replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires as well as the ignition coil, distributor and the distributor cap. That did not seem to solve the problem and I've ran out of ideas. Anyone might have some insight on what it could be that is causing this P0300 code?
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I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 4.3 and lately it's been like losing power when I'm driving down the road it acts as if it stalls and I pump the gas pedal and it turns back on or regains power. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, speed sensor, mass airflow sensor, spark plugs and also cleaned the throttle body. Do y'all have any idea what could be causing my truck to be acting like that?
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I want to start by saying i understand i am working my truck a tad hard. And I AM going to continue. I just want to protect it as much as possible while doing that. I have a 2014 silverado with the 4.3 v6. 102,000 miles and never a problem. Owned since new. When i haul heavy up gravel roads my tranny gets hot like....220-240. I am a carpenter and pull materials and box trailers. I installed a snow plow this year which is snow moving so not a lot of air moving past radiator. I have hit 250 before. I had the transmission flushed at 50,000 and again at 100,000. But i would like to get my temps down. I am thinking an aftermarket fan? An additional tranny cooler? From what i read the tranny cooler is basically built into the radiator. And because the engine runs so hot you wont get too much cooling ability. Also it dosnt start actively cooling until 190? So i guess i need to adjust my thinking to the trucks 190 and up temperature range. But I am not happy with 230 for hours on end. I dont plow commercially just a few small drive ways. Any technical advice, not just opinions(lol) would help.
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Hello, I am hoping that you can help me diagnose what is causing a hesitation on my truck when accelerating from a stop. It sometimes also hesitates when shifting at low speeds 10-30mph Truck Specs 2014 silverado 1500 WT 4.3L V6 locking rear end 32,000 miles no codes, using bluedriver scanner red Problem two weeks ago truck took two tries to start never done this before has not happened again last week truck started hesitating on acceleration from stop every time rpms drop from 1500ish to 500ish and then jump back up and truck accelerates I have attached one of the drive logs where you can see the fuel rail pressure drastically change when the engine rpm drops You can see the seven times the truck hesitated at the drops in the graph Started logging other items to see what is happening and found this spike in the temp sensor, attached picture also. intake temp sensor is yellow line and engine rpm is blue line. I highly doubt the temperature actually went from 55F to 135F during my commute. What I have done Checked transmission fluid, truck level and hot. Fluid in the dashed good zone between the holes. No burnt smell. Found the strange temp reading. Truck off Unplugged the mass air flow sensor and drove around large parking lot. Hesitation completely gone truck drive normally for 5 min. Check engine light off. Truck off Plug in mass air flow sensor and drive around parking lot again. Hesitation back Check engine light on with codes for MAF unplugged. Thought MAF was the issue. Bought new MAF and air filter Installed MAF and air filter Problem gone on test drive for 15min, truck fine, no codes. Next day, hesitation is back, no codes Realize I need help. Post on forum. I'm sure I have left out some important information, just let me know and I'll try to answer. I greatly appreciate the help. Thank you.
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Hello all. I own an 18 Silverado 1500 LT , double cab, 6’6” box, 6 spd transmission, I have opted to put 26” status alloy empire wheels with tire size of 305/26/30. Stock transmission gave out. Stock Transmission went out. They said torque converter and pump went out then everything else went with it. Was able to replace the entire unit with a remanufactured from GM. 1 month later, back to the shop (dealer). They covered the repairs because it was under warranty but if it goes out again they won’t because they believe it is the rims causing the trouble. However they will cover if it goes out with stock wheels. Which I will be putting back on. Has anyone else experienced issues with this type of truck and 26” wheels? I did research the “Unsprung weight” makes some sense, however only the transmission gave out, not my drive shaft, drive shaft knuckles, diff, just the goofy transmission which I know the 8 speed has had their share of ongoing things. How is it that a truck that is capable of towing 9k lbs has issues with no load on 26” rims. Pulling a payload in the bed of the truck and pulling a trailer should still have the same effect. If I can’t tow anything with the truck, then what is the point of a truck. I have went back to stock rims to see what would happen. Anyone with info ,thought , something sketched on a cocktail napkin would be greatly appreciated. I do thank you all for your time on this. I have attached the service ticket to this post.
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Good Day folks, I am attempting to fix my 1994 Chevy Truck 2 Wheel Drive - 350 motor - 4l60E Transmission . I want to switch out the TPI System for a carburetor and Regular Intake setup , What Fuel Issues will I run in to as well as Electrical as far as Distributor? Another Question regarding my truck; my truck had a 4.3 V6 Vortec Motor , I put a 1990 5.7 350 V8 Motor in my truck , If i put new Intake and Carburetor in my truck -plus change Fuel Setup , CAN I still Run Same ECM computer from my Vortec V6 Motor in my Truck Answers are appreciated Thanks The Outside World The Soss -
Hi hello, recently my v8 2001 1500 suburban rear end got destroyed, i have a v6 2004 Silverado 1500 with no motor, i was wondering if i can just swap the rear ends on them, anybody know if it will it work? What could be the problems if i do it and its not compatible???
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I have a 2001 silverado extended cab v6 that is a base model. It came with no power locks or windows. I am trying to convert them. I already have panels,switches and the harness out of a 2002 z71. My problem is I found out my fuse box won't support this. I can provide pictures if necessary. I'm looking for advice on if I can just get another fuse box out of a truck that has the options and do I need to get a new underdash harness as well? Also if anyone has done this swap before any other insight would be greatly appreciated Its a project truck and has sentimental value so I'm not just going to " go sell it and buy a truck with all the options" -
Hi. I own a 2015 Chevy 1500 Silverado 4.3L V6 CrewCab 5.8' Box. Can I swap the rear differential from a V8 1500 Silverado onto my 1500 Silverado? According to chevy I can tow max of 5,600lbs, I blew out my rear differential from towing 5,300 pound trailer, bearings are shot, shattered. Trailering – 2015 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab (SAE J2807) 2WD: Crew Cab, 5’ 8” box 5,600 lbs. / 2,540 kg. – 4.3L (3.23 axle -
3.6L V6 Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Fuel Economy 2WD: 18mpg city / 21mpg combined / 26mpg highway 4WD: 17mpg city / 20mpg combined / 24mpg highway “The all-new 2015 GMC Canyon adds segment-leading fuel economy to its winning resume,” said Kenn Bakowski, Canyon marketing manager. “Innovations such as available active grille shutters combine with an aerodynamic design in a smaller, more maneuverable package to set a new standard for fuel economy in midsize trucks.”
