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Showing results for tags 'Transfer case'.
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My 4l60e is starting to show its age a bit. Not ready to condemn it yet but it occurred to me that it would not be too difficult (on the scale of trans swaps) to put a NV4500 from a GMT-800 HD truck in place of my 4l60e. I've done a bunch of research on which part numbers I would need and it seems mostly manageable but I have run across something I can't find the answer to online. My NP246 transfer case has the 27 spline input shaft because it's currently hooked up to a 4l60e. The NV4500 has a 32 spline output and was never (as far as I can tell) offered with a NP246, just the NP261 it seems like. However there's a part number for a 32 spline input shaft for a NP246. If I install that input shaft, will I be able to put my NP246 behind a NV4500?
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Guys Ive seen some videos and articles and debates on switching to 5-30 motor oil and people had better experience with it and I got an 05 gmc sierra with the NP246 TC and I live in a extremely hot climate, any ideas if it worked with you guys ? because I feel it would be better since the motor oil has more viscosity then auto track II and less viscosity of diff oil and of course it’ll get thinner with hot climates but still lubricate better than the recommended manufacture TC fluid, any other ideas before I take the chance? -
So the Chevrolet owners manual says to not tow a 4 x 4 vehicle with a single speed transfer case with “any“ wheels on the ground. It says to use a flatbed tow truck only. I will always do what Chevy says, as to not void my warranty. But, I can’t conceptually understand in my brain why I can’t tow my truck in 2-wheel drive with the rear wheels lifted off the ground and the front wheels on the pavement rolling. As long as my four-wheel-drive is not engaged, why would my front wheels do any damage to the vehicle? From my understanding, when the vehicle is in 2 Wheel Dr., the front differential is disconnected from the transfer case and front drive train. Why would this cause damage? inversely, couldn’t I disconnect the rear drive shaft and tow it with the rear wheels only on the ground? just seems weird that Chevy says “no“ to absolutely any options with towing with wheels on the ground. I mean, how the hell do they expect me to get it on a flatbed tow truck without “pulling it with wheels on the ground”. Just a thought. Maybe someone with more knowledge of the Single speed transfer case linkage/ 4-wheel drive system can advise. -
Have an 03 gmc 2500hd that ive been slowly rebuilding and just passed inspection it used to have service 4wd untill i cleaned up the driver side grounds and started to shift fine atleast long enough to pass, until today it shifted by itself into 4low by itself once i turned the truck on now it will not come out even in neutral tried going R-N-D-R-N...etc to kick it back on but no luck, confirmed it wasn't the 4x4 selector buttons, its not pulling any codes atleast on my scan tool. hitting up the junk yard tomorrow just going to grab a used tccm, actuator off the front diff and transfer case shift encoder since they are all super easy to pull and dirt cheap at my local junk yard and i have nothing but time at the moment. just wondering if any of you guys have had good/bad luck with any of those parts failing on you and causing the truck to get stuck into 4low/hi or the truck shifting into those selections by itself. and what your fixes and problems were. thanks guys!
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Hello, about 7 months ago I smoked my 6l80 transmission, removed it with the transfer case still attached last fall, before removing it I made the mistake of putting the transfer case (RPO code NQH) into neutral to aid with removing the rear driveshaft. Fast forward to about a month ago I finally had time to reinstall a new (rebuilt) transmission, upon reinstalling everything I noticed that my transfer case shift knob was not responsive and had no lights (other than on startup when it does a function check or whatever) I got a few wiring diagrams and checked over the whole system, replaced the transfer case actuator motor and the knob on the dash, still cannot get the POS to respond and do something. At a loss with this truck and contemplating scrapping it, it's had 4 motors, and 1 transmission in 126k miles, let alone over 30k in parts and labor. I recently got laid off and buying a fancy scan tool and/or having it sent to a shop is *NOT AN OPTION*. I desperately need advice and or assistance as to WTF I should do with this POS that has been nothing but problematic since day one. below I have sent all the PDF pages I have used to trace and track wiring schematics.
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Have an 03 gmc 2500hd that ive been slowly rebuilding and just passed inspection it used to have service 4wd untill i cleaned up the driver side grounds and started to shift fine atleast long enough to pass, until today it shifted by itself into 4low by itself once i turned the truck on now it will not come out even in neutral tried going R-N-D-R-N...etc to kick it back on but no luck, confirmed it wasn't the 4x4 selector buttons, its not pulling any codes at least on my scan tool. hitting up the junk yard tomorrow just going to grab a used tccm, actuator off the front diff and transfer case shift encoder since they are all super easy to pull and dirt cheap at my local junk yard and i have nothing but time at the moment. just wondering if any of you guys have had good/bad luck with any of those parts failing on you and causing the truck to get stuck into 4low/hi or the truck shifting into those selections by itself. and what your fixes and problems were. thanks guys!
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OK everyone I want to give thanks ahead for any advice and help. Truck in question= 2003 Chevy Suburban Z71, 5.3 L Transmission= 4L60-E So the story started when I was going down the road at about 50mph in cruise control, when suddenly I heard the engine begin to rev up. I hit the brake to take it out of cruise control and the engine stopped revving up. Apparently I lost transmission of power from the engine to the wheels because no matter what gear I put it into now, I get no movement from the vehicle. No reverse and no D1, 2 or 3. When I put the vehicle in park and attempt to push the vehicle it will not roll. When placed in any other gear I can then roll the vehicle freely. Before this happened: Since owning the vehicle 4x4 has always been shifty.....hehehe...sorry couldnt help it. I have the model where there are 4 buttons with lights the buttons are located left hand of dash near the turn signal. When I first got the truck sometimes it seemed like it didnt want to switch between gears. for example I would have to hit the button multiple times before it would switch and even then it seemed like it hadnt really switched but the lights would indicate it had. Most of the time the light for the button I selected would flash multiple times and then return to previous selection. Often times after turning the vehicle off and then returning to vehicle to go somewhere I would find that the light has switched back to a gear that it wasnt in when i left the vehicle. It seems to favor 4x4hi. As of lately I havent been able to get the lights to switch at all. It seems to be stuck in 4hi permanently. I have tested the 4wd switch and its fine. I tried unhooking battery for half hour with lights on to reset PC. I then reconnected battery cable and turned vehicle on but not start it. Then I pulled a bunch of fuses and plugged them back in. ( seen it in a video and the guy said it was supposed to wake up the TCCM) Well that did nothing. I have the truck off of all wheels right now and was trying to figure out if the transfer case is stuck in neutral. With the truck in drive as I turn the rear draft the front moves also. I am assuming that means it is in 4wd. But should I have someone hold the front drive shaft while i turn the rear drive shaft to confirm its not just from friction or something. I actually have the front drive shaft partly out right now in an attempt to get at and remove the shift motor and manually put the transfer case into 2hi. I am also considering changing out solenoids. I have gathered it is unlikely the shift solenoids. Is it possible it could be one of these: 1 * EPC (Pressure Control) Solenoid 1 * PWM Solenoid 1 * Manifold Pressure Switch 1 * TCC Solenoid w/Harness Another thing I suspect which would be an easy fix is the transfer case fluid level. I removed the fill plug and nothing came out. I can tell it has been leaking. I would have already topped it off but I have been stuck at home (no running vehicle lol). Could low fluid cause this issue? I hope that's all it is lol. Anyways I got a ride to the store tomorrow and to look at a back-up vehicle. Anything you guys recommend to grab from the parts store while I'm in town tomorrow? What would be your guys recommendation on how to solve this problem and fix it? All help is appreciated. thanks in advance, Aaron -
Hey yall, got a question for you. For the 2003 2500hd’s, Chevy offered 3 different types of transfer cases. Does anyone know how to identify which transfer case is installed in the vehicle one may have. I am moving into my 3RD transfer case (factory installed chain ground a hole through the case years ago, dealer installed a “new” used one, and now this one will not engage reverse). I am vigorously searching for a new case NOW, because I am afraid my vehicle will leave me stranded very soon. (Side note: I get a grinding noise-like the chain is rubbing ONLY during coasting.) So if anyone can help me find the part numbers or the direction to locate said replacement parts, that would be amazing.
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Anyone know what this noise is? It's very intermittent. Seems to do it most often between 40 and 50 MPH cruising with maybe a slight up hill. Never does it on coast or heavy acceleration. Very hard to tell where it's coming from. 20190521_191545_001.mp4 2014 Sierra Denali 1500 Crewcab, 5'8" bed 6.2 Litter 3.42 axle ratio about 118,000 miles- 5 replies
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Hello, So my trans blew and I'm considering buying a 4l80e to swap in place of my 6l90. I have a 2011 silverado 2500hd 6.0 with a manual transfer case. Is there any way to make my transfer case work with a 4l80e and if so would I need custom drive shafts? Due to cost of rebuilding and future power goals I would like to make the 4l80e work. -
I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 4x4 5.3l V8 with the 8 speed transmission. I already flushed out my transmission and filled it back up with the Mobil 1™ Synthetic LV ATF HP blue label. The question is, do i also use the HP fluid for my transfer case? Or do i need to use just a standard ATF fluid instead. I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. The owners manual states to use DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid. Would using regular ATF in the transfer case and HP ATF in the transmission cause any issues? Thanks in advance! -
246 transfer case no power to front wheels 4x4 slip?
W8MCC posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
1998 suburban 1500 4x4 5.7 4l60e np246 push button 4x4 2/4hi/4lo/auto I need some help here. Suddenly my 4x4 quit working on my truck, details above. I have diagnosed everything I can. There are no codes or lights. The issue is no power to the front wheels while in any of the 4x4 positions. The front axle actuator is working, checked with a new one. The encoder motor is new, just installed oem motor. When the truck is on stands the front wheels roll in 4x4 but on the ground they have no torque. I put the front on the ground and jacked up the rear axle, the rear tires spin in drive, the fronts have no pull what so ever. With the truck in the air, 4x4 hi engaged, engine off, truck in neutral, I can roll the front drive shaft by hand and see movement in the rear shaft. Again, when it's in the air everything works, only on the ground it acts like it's still in 2wd. Does the 246 have slipping issues? Is that even possible? I've never had one apart but if there's discs to engage them possibly they are worn? My next step is a xfer case but I don't want to throw any more money away. I should mention I have this problem in auto mode too. Thanks -
Trying to pull the front driveshaft on my '07 Sierra 1500 (new style). Front of shaft is free (out of front diff) but at the back end there is a pressed u-joint (no bolts) with a short rubber boot clamped over the spindle end and it is not sliding out of the transfer case as easily as other driveshafts I've pulled in the past. Dont want to force it if the boot is what's holding it back. Do not see any videos or explanatary photos online showing how the DS removes from the transfer case. Anyone help? See photo. Much thanks...
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Hello all. New to the forum and I appreciate any help. So I’m climbing a 10% grade, well maintained dirt road that’s covered in packed snow the other day and suddenly I get the warning ding and a message that says 4 wheel drive off. Rear end breaks loose, traction control stops the climb, and I’m stuck. Truck off and on a couple times, will start shift into 4 wheel drive then does the same thing. Had to chain up to get out. Owners manual says this will happen when the 4 wheel drive system is overheating. I had used it for about 2 minutes and nothing was more than warm to the touch. Can’t find anything online about it. I have no idea where to go from here without going to the dealership and spending all that cash! Any help is much appreciated. 2014 Sierra 1500 Crew, 4.3L 6, 98k.
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I’ve searched previous forums and haven’t found the feedback I’m looking for, although this is a common topic. So bear with me. I have a 1999 Silverado 1500... 5.3L.... 4l60e... 4WD... NP246 TC.... 3.73 gear ratio... 160k miles. The symptoms I’m having are namely: Large clunk when shifting into reverse. A less noticeable, but still at times, a clunk when shifting into Drive. Harsh down shifts when coming to a stop from cruising speeds. Today, I put the truck on 4 jack stands so I could get a better idea of what is going on. After being under the truck during shifts between Park Drive and Reverse , it seems to me the “clanking” is originating from the Transfer Case. And mainly from the output shaft that drives the front diff. When the truck is turned off and in park, I can manually with my hands rotate the front drive shaft back and forth and replicate the same (ish) banging noise I hear when making those shifts between P D and R. The noise is consistent whether the truck is in 2WD, 4 HI, or 4LO. I guess my question in general is what testing can I do to further look into this and figure out the root cause? Would these symptoms typically originate from the tcase? My long term plan is hopefully to replace both the Transfer case and front diff with either low mile junk yard OR remanufactured units. after replacing those things, assuming a good install, do you believe the “clanking” will be fixed? In general, the truck is shifting through gears like dog ******. But I love her and want to renew it over time. -
My 2015 Sierra transfer case just disintegrated at 48,000 miles. This truck has been serviced by a GM garage on schedule since purchase. The dealer discovered that the case was dry and reported that there were no holes or seal/gasket leaks to explain the loss of fluid. Speculation was that someone pulled the plug on the transfer case during a routine oil change (at another dealer) and failed to replace the transfer case fluid. The transfer case went out 4 months and 3000 miles from the time of this oil change. I'm stuck with a $2500. bill as GM has denied warranty coverage. Is it possible for a transfer case to go 3000 miles and 4 months of use without oil and are there any other explanations for this major/expensive problem?
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So I had my transmission replaced a few months back, everything was good until I tried to put it into 4H the other day. I hadn't used 4x since I had the work done, so I didn't notice, but the shift lever doesn't line up with the correct gear. Shifts fine between 4L, N, and 2H. Just shows the wrong gear on the shifter shroud on the floor. It would shift into 4H bit the lever is too far back and won't allow it to go into 4H. Is this just the linkage needing adjustment or is there something more? The transmission mount was old and worn, so I changed it out with no difference. -
I have a weird problem with my transfer case wiring apparently. I couldn't get my transfer case motor back on and I had no lights on at the selector buttons. So i took my fuse panel apart and flipped it over and was looking at the underneath. Didn't really see anything wrong and left it flipped up. I turned the key on with the t-case motor plugged in and heard it working. So I got under and the motor went right on without any problem at all. So I thought ah ha got it and put it all back together. Guess what now my lights are off again and nothing works again and both fuses are good SOOOOOO?. What the heck do I do now other than drag it out into the yard and torch it because this has been a nightmare of a problem from the start. Everything has been replaced because this said it was that and so on. I am truly ready to burn this P.O.S. HELP. 2000 Chevy Silverado.
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I have a 1999 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 4x4 5.3L, and I'm having some issues getting a new transfer case motor installed. A little back story, the truck has been stuck in 4WD for a while now. The selector switch didn't work, and none of the indicator lights would work. I checked fuses, checked wires, changed the selector switch, changed the TCCM, nothing fixed it. Last night I got a new transfer case motor, and now all the lights work and I can gear the motor spin when I select the buttons. Now the current problem. I can't seem to get the male end of the shaft to line up with the female end on the motor. I've put the truck in neutral and manually turned the shaft, I've plugged the motor in and put it in every gear, and it just doesn't seem to want to slide on. Am I doing something wrong? Is there an easier way to do this? How do I get this sucker on? On a side note, I also noticed the new motor doesn't shift to 4HI or neutral. It'll shift to Auto, 2HI, and 4LO just fine, but when it goes to 4Hi, I hear the motor spin, but then it'll revert back to whatever it was in before. And it just won't shift to neutral at all. When I hit 2HI and 4LO and hold it, it just shifts to one or the other. Is this a related issue? Or will that change once the thing is fully installed? -
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I just got my first GMC truck. It's this beautiful 1981 K2500 Sierra Grande. We bought it and picked it up for the buyer. I carefully drove it up on the trailer but my spotter didn't notice my aluminum transfer case didn't clear the trailer by about a half inch. Soon I heard a thud and my heart sunk. I backed up to discover a puddle of transmission fluid. We used a come along and got it loaded and the hole covered. Got it unloaded and pushed halfway into my driveway. I cleaned it up pretty good with brake wash and it looks like only the housing is damaged. The trucks heavy. I need to push it another 50 yards to it's new resting place all semi steep uphill. Can I drive it that 50 yards? What would happen? Please elaborate! Thanks! -
Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
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Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
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Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
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OK Here's my sound. Truck is up on jack stands and I'm turning the rear wheels. Camera is under transfer case. Squeaks like this when leaving standing start and eventually stops when going fast enough (20 mph). Fluid in transfer case is fresh. Thoughts?
